Need ideas on waterproof board to cover water damaged base of outside doors

[Randall J Cox]

I have two exterior doors, one to the back of my house and one to my tool shed. Both are showing the effects of winter water splashing up on them at the base. The door to my shed is really bad. I don't want to replace the doors but would like to put a board over the base, like a kickplate to cover up the bad wood. All kickplates I have seen are brass. Not appropriate for either door and pricey to boot. Want to either screw or nail something on, the size of a kickplate, prime and paint to match the doors. What would you recommend? Would backer board work, the stuff they put in showers before tiling? I've never worked with that. Or is there something else better looking when finished? Don't want it to thick. Ideas? Randy

[Richard Coers]

Fastening something to a rotting board will only accelerate the deterioration of that rot. I'd suggest Abatron restoration resin and filler after you get the wood dried out.

[Myles Moran]

If I were in your situation, I would first remove the damage with a grinder and wire wheel, and then seal the damaged door with marine spare urethane.

I'd guess a stainless kick plate would cover it, but I'm not sure if you'd need something that wraps around the bottom. The cheap way would be some stair tread cap to wrap around the bottom and a stainless kick plate to look nice on the front. The proper way would be to get that stainless bent to wrap around the bottom.

[Mel Fulks]

I would get 1/4" tempered Masonite . Put a small bevel at top and bottom. Then use Titebond 2 to glue light canvas to
the Masonite on face side or both sides. Prime and paint ,screw on to door bottom rail and stiles. Old tried and true treatment .
Copper naphthalate treatment on door bottom rail and bottom of stiles is good too

[Lee Schierer]

I think a larger concern is to stop the water dripping on the door by adding an overhang or portico to keep the water off the door.

[Bill Dufour]

Lee is correct how do you get enough rain to cause rot. Maybe sprinklers? How old is this door. Use an aluminum kick plate and paint to match or contrast.
Bill D.

[Randall J Cox]

Doors are 30-35 years old. Water does not drip onto the door but splashes off concrete from rain. I do have a very sufficient overhang on both. Although the wood at the base of the doors is separating a little at the very base (looks like a plywood skin on both doors, not rail and stile), don't see any wood rot. Think I'll make a trip to Lowes and look at both their tempered alum kickplates and tempered Masonite for a fix. Want it to look nice. I would think either fix would give them another 5+ years without a problem. I have some high bond primer so hopefully that would work on the aluminum kickplate (if I went that route) with some light scuffing, before final paint. I'll lightly grind off separating wood and give a coat of spar varnish before covering. Bill, I am down Highway 99 from you about a hundred miles so winters are pretty mild and not much rain (unfortunately for the farmers). Thanks for replies. Randy

[Bill Dufour]

You could consider adding a plate to both sides and using sex bolts to sandwich them together.
Bill D

[Andy D Jones]

I'm thinking 30-35 years for an exterior, wood clad solid core door that has water splashing on it is really good.

IMHO, unless you put on a kick plate that looks like a kick plate, and not a patch, it ain't gonna look good.

Paint it the same color as the trim/jambs?

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Mel Fulks]

Doors that weathered usually show an open joint between the stiles and bottom rail. That should be fixed ,not just
filled with caulk. BUT by using the tempered glued and screwed Masonite ....just adding a litttle glue to opening ( not
that it's gonna help a lot). And clamping while adding the Masonite the door will fit better and be stronger.

[Bill Dufour]

The tub surround in house, built in 1949, was formica on what seemed to be masonite. It held up pretty well for 60 years until it got too much hard water stains.
Bil lD

[Randall J Cox]

I'm really not worrying about how the door to my tool shed looks that much but, I do want the door to the house to look decent after my work. If it looks to lousy after my fix (and believe me the wifey will tell me!), I'll wait til after winter and replace the door as I had already been seriously considering that the last couple of years.... Randy

[Eric Arnsdorff]

One thought would be to coat the bottom damaged area in a waterproof sealer such as a bed liner and epoxying any damaged structural areas. Then wrap it in copper sheet.

I would go ahead and replace it personally.

[Richard Coers]

Doors are 30-35 years old. Water does not drip onto the door but splashes off concrete from rain. I do have a very sufficient overhang on both. Although the wood at the base of the doors is separating a little at the very base (looks like a plywood skin on both doors, not rail and stile), don't see any wood rot. Think I'll make a trip to Lowes and look at both their tempered alum kickplates and tempered Masonite for a fix. Want it to look nice. I would think either fix would give them another 5+ years without a problem. I have some high bond primer so hopefully that would work on the aluminum kickplate (if I went that route) with some light scuffing, before final paint. I'll lightly grind off separating wood and give a coat of spar varnish before covering. Bill, I am down Highway 99 from you about a hundred miles so winters are pretty mild and not much rain (unfortunately for the farmers). Thanks for replies. Randy
I would not use big box tempered hardboard for exterior work. I would use Masonite brand as they make exterior doors. But no name from China would not make my list.

[Mel Fulks]

I would not use big box tempered hardboard for exterior work. I would use Masonite brand as they make exterior doors. But no name from China would not make my list.

Agree with the principle of trying to use the best materials on all projects. But the glued on and painted canvas would even
keep a roll of toilet paper clean and dry for years ! It's as impervious as plastic ,but without the fast deterioration from
sunlight.

[Tom Bender]

Do whatever to the shop door first. You will learn from that and do as well or better on the house door.

[roman brisk]

first of all you should block the way of water coming to the door. (https://waterdamagerestorationeverettwa.com)

[Thomas McCurnin]

You have a water problem, not a door problem. Fix the water problem or this will just happen again, and again, and again.

All that said, a fiberglass door replacement would work for the back door. They are about $600 at most home centers.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Gulvit can be a very helpful product. I have used it to extend the life of masonite and OSB siding that has started to deteriorate with good results.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/2091
519255

[Bill Dufour]

Hardie board clapboard. I often see broken lengths in the cheap cart at HD.
Bill D

[Doug Garson]

A few pictures of the doors to show the type and extent of the damage would be useful.

[roger wiegand]

Quarter inch Azek board caulked to exclude water at the joint and screwed in place would do the trick nicely.

[Lee Schierer]

This is a 4 year old thread.......

[Rich Engelhardt]

I'd replace the slabs.

Why is it you don't want to do that?

[Stan Calow]

How about a clear waterproofing, like Flex Seal?

[Patrick Curry]

This is a 4 year old thread.......

I have a similar problem and am kind of curious how the solution weathered these past last 4 yrs