Dedicated TS for finger joints

[Lisa Starr]

I'm considering purchasing an used contractor/portable style table saw that can be permanently setup for producing 1/2" finger joints. I make quite a few drawers and like the way finger joints look but dislike having to set up my cabinet saw.

Questions:

1) I know not all brands can accept a dado stack. Brands to avoid/look for?

2) I'll alter or make a new dedicated sled, so the quality of the fence will be unimportant. Agreed?

3) HP? Will I have trouble with insufficient horsepower with the dado stack on?

4) Will an 8" stack fit or should I expect to purchase a new 6" stack?

Thanks for your thoughts.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Since you said you have a cabinet saw, why not use a router plate/lift in that? I have a router in mine.
I personally do not like dado stacks. I don't think many portable table saws will enjoy having a dado set all the time.
I just made a box joint sled for my router table, that may also be an alternative, a router table takes up less room than a contractor saw. A good contractor saw should be able to handle continuous use with a dado stack.

[glenn bradley]

Since you are making box joints for drawer boxes a 6" should be fine. Arguments can be made for the tooth speed on the smaller diameter but, since you want to use a smaller saw I think the trade off is fine. The 1940-50's Craftsman 113.27520 model and it's cousins were stout little saws. Getting setup at 90 degrees and strapping on a motor to get a good task specific machine with a minimal footprint should be very workable. I see them around here for about $100 in various states of condition.

443704

Here's grandpa's old saw that I plan to setup with a sled for crosscut operations. The table casting and saw body are heavier than what you find in the 1960-70's Delta and Craftsman saws so often for sale. The arbor will take up to a 13/16 dado stack and still let the arbor nut be fully installed. Look around a bit and you will be rewarded.

[Frank Pratt]

Not to mention that it's a cool looking old saw.

[Lisa Starr]

Glenn, That's heartening to hear. There is a 1950's Craftsman available in our area that looks identical to your's. They say it runs and are asking $50.00 I may pursue this a bit more.

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, That's heartening to hear. There is a 1950's Craftsman available in our area that looks identical to your's. They say it runs and are asking $50.00 I may pursue this a bit more.

There are some King Seely / Craftsman saws from that era that are very similar visually. The model number will start with 103. instead of 113.

443705

I have seen these close up and they appear to be a a similar quality to the Emerson (113.) saws. I have the 113 manual if you go that way. Obviously we know how to use the saw but, the exploded parts diagrams can be helpful in cleaning up and tuning the machine. Let me know if that will help.

[Jim Becker]

Lisa, for an operation you do a lot, a dedicated workstation that's always setup for that job isn't a horrible idea. Personally, I wouldn't use a portable type saw with a universal (screamer) motor for this, both because of the noise and because they tend not to be quite as solid as desired for quality, precision work. Box joints do not tolerate any kind of fluctuation in precision very well. So if you can pick up a used contractor's style saw with a cast iron top, standard size miter slots, an induction motor and an arbor suitable for a dado set, that would be my choice. No need for large extension wings to take up a lot of space...just a saw that's got "some" mass so it runs smooth, etc.

You can do this with a dedicated router table as someone already mentioned, too. But "solid" is still desired and you'll want a hefty router motor to be able to cut full depth in one pass.

[Lisa Starr]

I have a very solid router table built into one wing of my cabinet saw. But, I know I prefer making box joints with my saw. Like using my cabinet saw, I can't leave the router table dedicated to the box joints. Hence the consideration of a second TS.

[Brian Tymchak]

If you can find a used one, the Ridgid contractor saws are workhorses. I've been using a TS3650 for over a decade as my primary TS.

[Von Bickley]

I have a small portable Porter-Cable saw that I bought from Lowes for exactly what you are talking about. I keep a 8" dado stack on it set at 1/2". I also keep my Incra I-Box jig on it and use it for box-tail joints and use it to cut rabbets. Works fine for me.

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, That's heartening to hear. There is a 1950's Craftsman available in our area that looks identical to your's. They say it runs and are asking $50.00 I may pursue this a bit more.


This is one of the reasons I am keeping grandpa's. Even in clean condition these things only go for small change. Of course I've had it for 20 years trying to decide what to do with it ;-)

[Bruce Wrenn]

Lisa, look at William Ng's video on box joint making. Well worth the time spent watching.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Joke Alert:

Bruce, surely you're not advocating Mr. Ng's video? Surely, you're not advocating two table saws because that is what he uses? Surely you don't believe that using automotive feeler gauges make the finger joint jig more accurate?

Actually, yes, but name is not Shirley.

(taken from Mr. Ng's video, he has a great sense of humor)

[mark kosse]

I actually have a Delta tilt top dedicated for box joints. The nice thing about a Delta tt is it aligns like a cabinet saw. it also has a great dust collection port.

[Frank Pratt]

Lisa, look at William Ng's video on box joint making. Well worth the time spent watching.

I've watched about a hundred videos on making box joints. The range from super simple to hugely complex Goldbergian monstrosities. For me, William Ng's is hands down the best one out there. It's simple, precise & foolproof.

[Lisa Starr]

The sled I use for making box joints is modeled after Mr. Ng's. I just want to put the dado stack on a saw and leave the whole thing set up for using it frequently.

[Alex Zeller]

You may want to look for an older cabinet saw. I occasionally see them without a fence or wings (usually in auctions) and they sell for peanuts. For box joints you wouldn't need a riving knife and if it didn't have wings it would probably take up less room than a contractors saw. An old PM66 or Unisaw would have the added advantage of being able to replace the arbor if it's not true. Right now prices are a little higher than they were just 6 months ago but they will come back down. I would think you could find one that would work for less than $200.

[Tom Bussey]

I am setting up a table saw to cut finger joints at the present.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

You can even find used delta contractor saws pretty cheap, I just bought one for $200, if you can't find a cool older one, the "newer" belt drive stuff isn't badly priced. I personally have a dado specific Unisaw, absolutely love not having to mess around setting up every time I want to cut one.

[Jim Becker]

You may want to look for an older cabinet saw. I occasionally see them without a fence or wings (usually in auctions) and they sell for peanuts. For box joints you wouldn't need a riving knife and if it didn't have wings it would probably take up less room than a contractors saw. An old PM66 or Unisaw would have the added advantage of being able to replace the arbor if it's not true. Right now prices are a little higher than they were just 6 months ago but they will come back down. I would think you could find one that would work for less than $200.

I think this idea has merit...these saws have arbors that generally are designed to handle a dado stack well and they have a bit more power to cut smoothly with less variability in RPM when they start taking their bite. That could result in even better quality box joints.