How to?

[Michael J Evans]

I am making a rolling stand for my planer. It is made out of 2x4 material that I milled 4 square. 36lx32wx33h. The long (36") horizontal plane / portion will have the 2x4 on edge, with the the other 2x4 mortised in from the height side. Basically I am making two side frames and then want to put braces across for the width. Since I already have mortise on the side frames, I am having trouble figuring out what joint to connect the across braces with. I can't use another mortise since I already have those cut in those pieces and I can't use a dovetail as there wouldn't be enough meat left because of the mortise, what would be the proper way to make this 90? Obviously I could use some pocket holes, but I very much so dislike them and can use the joinery practice. So basically I am making a crate and can't figure out how to connect the three legs together. What is the traditional way without fasteners?
Thank you

[Jim Koepke]

Having an image of this would help a lot. Just spitballing, can the styles on the width be mortised in above or below the styles for the depth?

You could also settle for stringers between the styles of the side frames. Mortise and tenon would work there. It could also be a support for a shelf.

A pinned half lap joint above or below the side frame styles could also work.

jtk

[Michael J Evans]

Jim
Imagine a L with two short legs at 90 to each other. In the "L" the short leg has the tenon and the long the mortise. How do I connect another short leg at at 90 to the base of that L

[Jim Koepke]

Jim
Imagine a L with two short legs at 90 to each other. In the "L" the short leg has the tenon and the long the mortise. How do I connect another short leg at at 90 to the base of that L

Do you have any way to create an image?

It may be the late hour and one small glass of rum but the vision isn't coming to me.

jtk

[James Pallas]

Smaller tenon thru the middle of the original mortise and tenon.

[Scott Winners]

How big/heavy/ powerful is the planer? Can you get untreated 4x6 near you?

[Michael J Evans]

I don't know why the heck I wrote mortise last night. I actually half lapped the pieces.

[Michael J Evans]

How big/heavy/ powerful is the planer? Can you get untreated 4x6 near you?

Not big, just a DeWalt lunchbox planer 90lbs or so.
I seen another post where a guy made his stand into a box for dust collection purposes. That Is what I plan to do as well. So once the frame is finished, I will be putting plywood on all sides with doors at either ends to clean out the chips.

[Jim Koepke]

Here is how some of my corner joints were done years ago:

443632

One was a large cabinet the other was an animal cage. Both are still holding together. The tenon can even have some draw bore effect if done correctly.

jtk

[Michael J Evans]

Here is how some of my corner joints were done years ago:

443632

One was a large cabinet the other was an animal cage. Both are still holding together. The tenon can even have some draw bore effect if done correctly.

jtk

Jim that's exactly what I am trying to do. Thank you!

[Michael J Evans]

Jim
Anything special to know about when cutting a mortise with the grain? I would think it would split the ends?
Or did you do it across the grain and just make two mortise that you connected into one?

Thanks

[Jim Koepke]

Jim
Anything special to know about when cutting a mortise with the grain? I would think it would split the ends?
Or did you do it across the grain and just make two mortise that you connected into one?

Thanks

Cut across the grain first. This becomes the stop cut when cutting with the grain.

Some like to drill out the waste and do the clean up and squaring with chisels.

The mortise was cut through before cutting out the section for the bridle joint.

jtk

[Scott Winners]

I still need a picture. Is the table top square/rectangular and the framing L shaped with a third member (leg) coming into the joint at a corner, or is the table top L shaped?

Sorry, I just don't have enough info to contribute anything meaningful.

[Michael J Evans]

All
I just ended up using pocket holes for the stretchers or whatever the term is called. The two side frame pieces I made using half laps, which made those rock solid. So with the stretchers, pocket holed and then plywood encasing the whole thing it had zero flex. Or movement.

I still dislike pocket holes greatly, but for this application it will be fine. I haven't finished putting the plywood on, so I will take some pictures tonight to show the frame.

[Mike Allen1010]

Great question Mike - joining “frames” at 90 degree angles to make a “box” is fundamental task. Your question illustrates the primary challenge: removing any part of the existing M&T is suboptimal for strength. If you must go this direction Jim’s solution of tennon through the middle of existing M&T works.

Another option more typically of preIndustrial WW’ers is design this consideration in from the beginning by making the M&T’s of the side frames wide and low enough down that you can put at through dovetail cross piece rail at the very top and bottom of side frames without interfering with the M&T holding side frames together.

Also take comfort in the strength of plywood panel in simple rabbit joint as “back” of your box.

Cheers, Mike

[Jerry Olexa]

I vote for M/T....

[Michael J Evans]

Sorry for the delay in Photo's, I find posting pictures here a cumbersome process. Attached are photos of the frame, joint in question and completed stand. I guess the easy solution would of been to not put the stretchers right at the corner joints and put them in two separate places than the middle. It just seems to me, that this very how to question, would be done frequently and a easy answer besides mortise the mortise. Anyways, appreciate all the replies.
443979443980

[Jim Koepke]

I find posting pictures here a cumbersome process.

Yes, it would be wonderful if it was an easy cut and paste function like other platforms.

Though at least images posted to SMC are retained over time.

jtk