Cutting board finish - beeswax and mineral oil

[Shawn Siegrist]

I’m building charcuterie boards and cutting boards and I’d like to finish them with beeswax and mineral oil. Where can I buy the beeswax?

Thanks!
Shawn

[Chris Schoenthal]

This (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FD32S0Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is the one that I use.
Melts really well. I use 4 parts wax to 1 part MO.

[George Yetka]

If you are doing a small batch may just be easier to buy howards. If you are making a lot or plan on making a lot over time get a cheap slow cooker think i paid $20 and mineral oil can be found at drug store. I batched out 48 4oz mason jars i give away with cutting boards(well i would if i could sell them)

Also i noticed if you are doing multiple applications to fill the board just use mineral oil to start and then on the final coat use the mix. the beeswax helps to prevent oil from evaporating but it will also stop it from entering.

[Mark Bolton]

We've always flipped Chris' math a bit at run a 6:1 mix on butcher block and boards. 6 parts oil, one part wax. The wax is merely there to hold a shine for the wow factor. It pretty much serves no purpose other than to keep the unused item looking pretty for a period until you get the check. Bees wax is expensive. You on brick of wax and an equal volume of mineral oil to get you to a pretty, shinny-ish, finish, to get your money, works. They are not going to look that way after 10 minutes of use so there is no need to waste money on board finish or more bees wax. If your desperate you can buy beeswax at Michaels or probably hobby lobby (bring your bible).

Dont over think it.

[Jim Becker]

If you do not have a local beekeeper that sells wax, Mann Lake offers it. I like the mineral oil and beeswax for cutting boards, but for charcuterie boards I prefer something that's more of a film finish, even if it's subtle since you do not cut on them and that makes them easier to clean after serving on them. That's personal preference, however.

[Stan Calow]

I buy beeswax at any of several farmers markets around here. Usually someone selling honey, and they usually have beeswax. A lot of people want it for other uses than woodworking. I've not noticed a problem with impurities.

[John K Jordan]

I’m building charcuterie boards and cutting boards and I’d like to finish them with beeswax and mineral oil. Where can I buy the beeswax?

Thanks!
Shawn

There are local beekeepers everywhere - you can probably find some in your area if you contact a local beekeeping club. If you can't find wax from a local beekeeper you can find it at places who sell to candle-makers (there's one in Knoxville). You can even buy it through Amazon. I have beehives so I get mine from the cappings wax removed when extracting honey. (It's actually a lot of work to process beeswax - wash, melt&filter, repeat as necessary, pour into molds. I don't process it often but when I do it takes me all day.)

Note that pure beeswax is normally yellow. White beeswax is bleached - some is bleached with chemicals so that may not be as desirable.

JKJ

[Chris Schoenthal]

We've always flipped Chris' math a bit at run a 6:1 mix on butcher block and boards. 6 parts oil, one part wax.

Oh my gosh, you're right. I use 4 MO & 1 bees wax. It's been so long since I made up a batch, I got it backwards. :D
I use 2 cups bees wax to about 1/2 gallon of mineral oil.
Good thing I've got it written down and reference when I make some.

[Phil Mueller]

I’ll agree with Jim; for charcuterie boards I use General Finishes wood bowl finish...or thinned down ArmRSeal...whatever I have on hand. It gives a nice durable film finish, but still a close to the wood feel. It does, however, take a full 30 days or so to cure. I like to let it sit for a couple months before use.

[roger wiegand]

Any local beekeeper. (support your local small business!). One beeswax candle will finish a lot of cutting boards.

[Shawn Siegrist]

Thanks everyone!!!