Craftsman 10" RAS 113.23100

[Chris Hammersley]

Guy posted it on Facebook garage sale the other day and I was able to get it. He said he was using it and it just quit. He never messed with it. I brought it home and noticed the reset button on top of the motor. I pressed it and its work under no load now. The table is missing so I'll get a table made and try it out. Maybe the motor is getting bad or maybe he was over working it. He said he was cutting flooring with it.

[David Buchhauser]

Guy posted it on Facebook garage sale the other day and I was able to get it. He said he was using it and it just quit. He never messed with it. I brought it home and noticed the reset button on top of the motor. I pressed it and its work under no load now. The table is missing so I'll get a table made and try it out. Maybe the motor is getting bad or maybe he was over working it. He said he was cutting flooring with it.


Was there a question in there somewhere?
David

[Doug Walls]

The table is missing
Was a table on it when he was using it?


He said he was using it and it just quit. He never messed with it.

He said he was cutting flooring with it.



I brought it home and noticed the reset button on top of the motor. I pressed it and its work under no load now.

My guess is that if the guy was using it "Without" a table & a stop fence, Chances are he probably got a piece of wood pinched/wedged on the blade & it tripped the overload!

Doug

[Doug Walls]

The table is missing so I'll get a table made and try it out.
A good square & level table makes a big difference!
Here's a link to one I made.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?253204-Radial-Arm-Saw-Table-Modifications&p=2720332#post2720332

A bit of overkill on my part :eek: But it's works out good for odd pieces by being able to clamp the stock to the table.

Doug

[Warren Lake]

first saw I had then used as a cut off saw. It was lousey for even that so used a Skill saw to rough cut solid. Those saws had issues with the heat sink sensor tripping too easily, maybe some were defective. I should have stopped using it years before i did it was just grief tripping that button.

[Chris Hammersley]

Thank you I will check that out. The sale ad did not show it with a table so I don't know. This model is covered under the recall but terms have changed. They send you $50 if you prove with pics that you cut the cord off the motor and at the yoke. Instead of sending and updated blade guard. I'll put a plywood table on it and see how it goes for awhile then move on to building a nice solid table.


A good square & level table makes a big difference!
Here's a link to one I made.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?253204-Radial-Arm-Saw-Table-Modifications&p=2720332#post2720332

A bit of overkill on my part :eek: But it's works out good for odd pieces by being able to clamp the stock to the table.

Doug

[Doug Walls]

This model is covered under the recall but terms have changed. They send you $50 if you prove with pics that you cut the cord off the motor and at the yoke. Instead of sending and updated blade guard.

I heard they changed their terms, But I wasn't aware that they ended the option of sending the new guard kits!

The guard kits use to also include a new table/fence & mounting hardware.
443032

Doug

[Doug Walls]

I'll put a plywood table on it and see how it goes for awhile then move on to building a nice solid table.
If the saw turns out to run good & the previous owner just misused it. :confused:
The new style guards are pretty nice. :cool:
Besides having a lower blade guard that is controlled by the handle, They also have a riving knife/splitter & a rear adjustable guard that prevents the stock from being lifted up by the blade.

I've seen quite a few of the new-style guards on E-Bay & Craig's-list, Probably from people that got the free recall guard kits.
If you end-up looking for one, Just be sure you also get the new handle & mounting hardware with it! The arm that lifts the lower guard section is built-into the new handle.


Doug

[Chris Hammersley]

How wide is your table Doug?

[Charlie Velasquez]

....... I'll put a plywood table on it and see how it goes for awhile then move on to building a nice solid table.

It may be difficult to “see how it goes” with a plywood table.

To see how it goes requires the saw to be adjusted and tuned. All your adjustments will be referenced from the table. Having a solid, flat table is the first step to getting the tool ready for use.

There are a lot of stories out there about how the saws are crappy, or dangerous, or won’t hold its settings. Most of those can be traced to users not knowing how to tune the saw. I have been asked by friends to help tune their saws. Even the much maligned Craftsmans have been tuned to give accurate, repeatable cuts. But it all starts with the table.

[Doug Walls]

How wide is your table Doug?
The table was made to fit the 4' T-track, Including the outer oak trim it's just over 49" wide.
Front to back it's 35" deep, With the fence in the normal position there's about 20" to the end of the table.


All your adjustments will be referenced from the table. Having a solid, flat table is the first step to getting the tool ready for use.
As Charlie mentioned, Having a solid flat table makes all the difference.

I built my table using a modified version of the Mr. Sawdust table

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1cc-_vPT0w
For my version I also incorporated some steel bars that go from front to back, These additional bars also provide a improved method of mounting & leveling the table. I also replaced the thin sheet metal table brackets with some 2" X 2" by 1/8" thick angle iron.

Doug