Second Hand Plane to Get?

[John McKissick]

I recently purchased a wood river low angle block plane and find it quite useful and have become addicted to hand planes and need to feed the beast.

What would be the most useful second plane to get? I was thinking jointing plane but hope to buy an 10 inch Wahuda bench jointer soon. Smoothing, Bench?

I do some cabinet type projects and a variety of misc type projects (no specific discipline), have a CNC, 12" bench planer, good sized combo sander, table saw etc.

[Tom Trees]

Hello John
I suggest a secondhand plane, a Stanley Bailey no.51/2...
And if I may also suggest a second hand plane, a no.4 for a smoother.

Get one that has a chunky sole, (base) as many longer planes are lapped incorrectly and thin at the front and back.
You need good pictures of the plane from front and back to see if this is the case.
The usual no hairline cracks, damaged handles, and iron with plenty of life in it is what I'd be looking for.
I don't care about slight rusting so much.


Since you will be covering more area with a proper plane,
learn to set the cap iron if you are getting tearout,
David Weaver (youtube David W) has probably the best and most information out there, if you want to use a double iron plane well.
Many folk will advocate hindering how to use a Bailey in various ways, and yet still too proud to admit it, and use scrapers dimensioning flat work
It will make a huge difference if your timbers are cranky.

Another cheap as you can get, no.4 or 5 for a jack/scrub if your working reclaimed timbers, before the machine sees it.

Tom

[ken hatch]

I recently purchased a wood river low angle block plane and find it quite useful and have become addicted to hand planes and need to feed the beast.

What would be the most useful second plane to get? I was thinking jointing plane but hope to buy an 10 inch Wahuda bench jointer soon. Smoothing, Bench?

I do some cabinet type projects and a variety of misc type projects (no specific discipline), have a CNC, 12" bench planer, good sized combo sander, table saw etc.

John,

First do not waste your money on the jointer. Even a good, heavy jointer is the least needed tool in the shop. I did a quick look at Amazon and the 6" was around $400 USD, for that you can buy a good benchtop planer like the DeWalt. Add a pre-war Stanley #5 with a couple of cutters and you are set.

ken

John,

I just re-read your post and see I missed your having a bench top planer. The advice still stands, do not waste your money. it is easy to "skip" plane one side then use the planer to true your board up.

[Frederick Skelly]

John, I have a jointer plane and I almost never use it. I'd get a No. 3 or a No.4 smoothing plane. I have both and use them all the time. Since I learned how to sharpen properly, I almost never use sandpaper - my finish goes on the planed surface and it's lovely.

Welcome to the slippery slope!
Fred

[steven c newman]

Just get a decent #5 jack/fore plane.....learn ti use it. Then either a #3 OR #4 smooth plane.....

The Jack can be used to not only skip plane a board relatively flat, it can reasonably joint most edges....usually up to 4' long ( BTDTGTTS), and...set with a straight edged iron, can be a LONG bed smoother.

The #3 vs the #4......the #3 can get into places the #4 can't, is a tad lighter....and the iron is 1/4" narrower.....

IF, after a while....you feel like a "true" jointer plane...either a #6 or a #7.....both can also flatten glued up panels. The #8 will wear you out, hard to keep level on a surface like a 3/4" wide edge...iron is 2-5/8" wide, after all...plane weighs in at around 10 pounds. The #5-1/2, the #6, and the #7 all take the same width iron..2-3/8" wide....main difference is the length of the sole.

So...next plane? Get a jack plane....does a lot of jobs decently enough...bevel up vs bevel down? Meh.....I prefer bevel down...

[ken hatch]

Just get a decent #5 jack/fore plane.....learn ti use it. Then either a #3 OR #4 smooth plane.....

The Jack can be used to not only skip plane a board relatively flat, it can reasonably joint most edges....usually up to 4' long ( BTDTGTTS), and...set with a straight edged iron, can be a LONG bed smoother.

The #3 vs the #4......the #3 can get into places the #4 can't, is a tad lighter....and the iron is 1/4" narrower.....

IF, after a while....you feel like a "true" jointer plane...either a #6 or a #7.....both can also flatten glued up panels. The #8 will wear you out, hard to keep level on a surface like a 3/4" wide edge...iron is 2-5/8" wide, after all...plane weighs in at around 10 pounds. The #5-1/2, the #6, and the #7 all take the same width iron..2-3/8" wide....main difference is the length of the sole.

So...next plane? Get a jack plane....does a lot of jobs decently enough...bevel up vs bevel down? Meh.....I prefer bevel down...

Pretty much what Steven said,

ken

[Scott Winners]

Besides block the three I use the most are #3, 4 and 4 1/2. I also have a #2, #5, # 5 1/2 and a #6; If I was rebuilding after a big fire or a theft I would be looking for either a 4 or a 4 1/2 right away.

[John McKissick]

Interesting perspective on the jointer. I have no dog in the race but quite a few other experienced woodworker sing the praises of a jointer and how essential it is.

Based on your and other posts I am looking hard at the 4 or 4-1/2's. Some say the 4's are a little small for man sized hands

[mike stenson]

Being able to face/edge joint is essential. How you do that, is another question entirely. Personally, I'm happier with a longer bed than a shorter one in a machine, no matter the width. Then again, my powermatic goes largely unused and I'll just use a jack most of the time.

[Michael J Evans]

Interesting perspective on the jointer. I have no dog in the race but quite a few other experienced woodworker sing the praises of a jointer and how essential it is.

Based on your and other posts I am looking hard at the 4 or 4-1/2's. Some say the 4's are a little small for man sized hands

I am 5'10" and fit into the average north american male build (slightly stocky) I find the 4 has about the perfect size handle, not to huge where my hand can move around and not to small where it's cramped like on a transitional. I personally like the horn slightly touching my hand. Same with saws, I find the hand saws with huge handles not as easy to control or comfortable.

[justin sherriff]

Interesting perspective on the jointer. I have no dog in the race but quite a few other experienced woodworker sing the praises of a jointer and how essential it is.

Based on your and other posts I am looking hard at the 4 or 4-1/2's. Some say the 4's are a little small for man sized hands
Are yo looking to get a new Lie Nielsen, Veritas, wood river... or a old vintage plane?

Here is a quick pic of a 4-1/2, 4, and 3
442903
442904
442905
442906
It does not mater what you buy next it will soon have friends :D

[John McKissick]

Are yo looking to get a new Lie Nielsen, Veritas, wood river... or a old vintage plane?

Here is a quick pic of a 4-1/2, 4, and 3
442903
442904
442905
442906
It does not mater what you buy next it will soon have friends :D

At first I was thinking Wood River since I am pretty happy with low angle block plane I have so far. I looked at the Lie Nielson and I am sure it's really nice but a budget buster and probably will laugh at me learning, lol. The Veritas isn't a lot more than the WR and both of those are candidates. The new Stanley's get some good ink. Is it hype or are they over permformers for the price point?

[Jim Koepke]

Is it hype or are they over permformers for the price point?

There are many considerations involved in purchasing a plane or any other tool. At one time a major consideration for me was the cost. Having more time than money it was my choice to buy inexpensive used tools. Bringing them to usable and even into fine shape wasn't difficult.

Others may be short on time and long on finances. The refinement of modern machining on tools from Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen have benefits. Some do not like the backlash or slop in some of the depth or lateral adjusters on older planes. Others like the appearance of a new tool.

John, From what you mention in your original post you might find a Stanley #5 size plane (commonly referred to as a jack plane) to be useful. For a panel wider than your bench top planer it would be good for flattening or smoothing. It could also help to remove any marks left by a power jointer.

The great thing about the #5 size plane is it was possibly the most common size purchased by carpenters and woodworkers of the bygone era. This makes them less expensive than any other size. You may find as your hand plane usage expands having more than one #5. They can be used for many functions.

jtk

[justin sherriff]

At first I was thinking Wood River since I am pretty happy with low angle block plane I have so far. I looked at the Lie Nielson and I am sure it's really nice but a budget buster and probably will laugh at me learning, lol. The Veritas isn't a lot more than the WR and both of those are candidates. The new Stanley's get some good ink. Is it hype or are they over permformers for the price point?
I would go with a vintage stanley and stay away from the new ones. A nice vintage can be had for less than the price of the new ones.

Veritas over wood river look at the used prices of Veritas they hold the value. Wood river had better prices befor the tariffs now the price between Veritas is worth the jump in my opinion.

[Jim Matthews]

I recently purchased a wood river low angle block plane and find it quite useful and have become addicted to hand planes and need to feed the beast.



Drop me a PM.

I've got spares in need of a good home.

Right here in Taxachusetts.

[Jim Koepke]

Drop me a PM.

I've got spares in need of a good home.

Right here in Taxachusetts.

During my rust hunting days driving the distance equal to the two farthest distances in Massachusetts was nothing for a promising hunt.

jtk

[Jerome Andrieux]

I recently purchased a wood river low angle block plane and find it quite useful and have become addicted to hand planes and need to feed the beast.

What would be the most useful second plane to get? I was thinking jointing plane but hope to buy an 10 inch Wahuda bench jointer soon. Smoothing, Bench?

I do some cabinet type projects and a variety of misc type projects (no specific discipline), have a CNC, 12" bench planer, good sized combo sander, table saw etc.

it seems you don’t "need" anything else than comforting your options. You are going to buy a third, then a forth, then lose count.

I would start with a jack, which can act as a smoother and short jointer. You’ll grab this 5 or 5 1/2 all day.

[Jim Matthews]

During my rust hunting days driving the distance equal to the two farthest distances in Massachusetts was nothing for a promising hunt.

jtk

If you're looking for anything in particular, I'm thinning the herd.

[john zulu]

I recently purchased a wood river low angle block plane and find it quite useful and have become addicted to hand planes and need to feed the beast.

What would be the most useful second plane to get? I was thinking jointing plane but hope to buy an 10 inch Wahuda bench jointer soon. Smoothing, Bench?

I do some cabinet type projects and a variety of misc type projects (no specific discipline), have a CNC, 12" bench planer, good sized combo sander, table saw etc.


I assume that you have a router too and power sander? There are some specialist plane like scrub plane, side rabbet and plow planes. Maybe a rabbet can be of use to you. With that amount of power equipment
I am not sure hand plane would be a real game changer. If you DO not want dust, then #4 will do very nicely on smoothing.

[Jim Koepke]

I am not sure hand plane would be a real game changer. If you DO not want dust, then #4 will do very nicely on smoothing.

John makes a good point. Each hand plane has its area of speciality. The best way to find an answer to your question is to determine what need you want a plane to fill.

Smoothing minor machine marks on the face of a board could be done with a #4 or similar size plane.

Saw marks along an edge can be removed quickly with a longer plane. Short pieces with a jack plane, longer pieces with a longer plane.

Get familiar with the standard planes before venturing off into the specialist planes. They can do some great things:

442937

A simple plow plane can be used to cut grooves, rabbets and beads.

Your machinery is able to do some of that.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

Just get a decent #5 jack/fore plane.....learn ti use it. Then either a #3 OR #4 smooth plane.....

The Jack can be used to not only skip plane a board relatively flat, it can reasonably joint most edges....usually up to 4' long ( BTDTGTTS), and...set with a straight edged iron, can be a LONG bed smoother.

The #3 vs the #4......the #3 can get into places the #4 can't, is a tad lighter....and the iron is 1/4" narrower.....

IF, after a while....you feel like a "true" jointer plane...either a #6 or a #7.....both can also flatten glued up panels. The #8 will wear you out, hard to keep level on a surface like a 3/4" wide edge...iron is 2-5/8" wide, after all...plane weighs in at around 10 pounds. The #5-1/2, the #6, and the #7 all take the same width iron..2-3/8" wide....main difference is the length of the sole.

So...next plane? Get a jack plane....does a lot of jobs decently enough...bevel up vs bevel down? Meh.....I prefer bevel down...

^^^^^^^^^

This, but I’d fill other holes prior to buying a jointer. I got one many years ago. A Sweetheart era #7 that was like new for cheap. Couldn’t pass it up. I’ve used it twice.

[John McKissick]

I assume that you have a router too and power sander? There are some specialist plane like scrub plane, side rabbet and plow planes. Maybe a rabbet can be of use to you. With that amount of power equipment
I am not sure hand plane would be a real game changer. If you DO not want dust, then #4 will do very nicely on smoothing.

I have two routers, a big Bosch with fixed and plunge base and a smaller Dewalt. I made an extension wing for my Bosch jobsite table saw. I also have a small Dewalt palm router attached to my Millright mega V CNC. I have a decent start on bits for both applications.

I have a good sized combo Rikon Disk/Belt sander, a older Craftsman belt sander and a quarter sheet sander. I know I need a RAS.

I have heard at least one in this thread advocate a jointer would be a waste of time.

[Jim Koepke]

[edited]
I have heard at least one in this thread advocate a jointer would be a waste of time.

If you are working short pieces, a jointer may be low on the list of planes needed.

If you plan to make and work on large panels for cabinetry you might find a longer plane useful.

If one is only using lumber that is already surfaced four sides, one could likely get by with nothing bigger than a #5.

We each have our own projects. A person who is mostly making small boxes might find a #1 & #2 useful. A person regularly making full sized wardrobes might be hard pressed to find a need for such a small plane.

The projects one plans to make has more to do with determining the tools one needs than all of the opinions of any number of woodworkers.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

Well said Jim. We often forget tool utility is a matter of context.

[Michael J Evans]

I bought a 30" wood jointer not very long ago. Maybe it is the new toy thing going on, but I pull it out on everything. For me the long jointer helps my lack of ability to get a straight edge with a shorter plane. But I also didn't have a jointer or planer machine when I bought it. If I already had machines like you, I would likely get a 5 or 4.

[John McKissick]

If you are working short pieces, a jointer may be low on the list of planes needed.

If you plan to make and work on large panels for cabinetry you might find a longer plane useful.

If one is only using lumber that is already surfaced four sides, one could likely get by with nothing bigger than a #5.

We each have our own projects. A person who is mostly making small boxes might find a #1 & #2 useful. A person regularly making full sized wardrobes might be hard pressed to find a need for such a small plane.

The projects one plans to make has more to do with determining the tools one needs than all of the opinions of any number of woodworkers.

jtk

I don't have a normal in my work which is more a hobby. Some cabinet type construction, so far a fair amount plywood/painted

443000

[justin sherriff]

This, but I’d fill other holes prior to buying a jointer. I got one many years ago. A Sweetheart era #7 that was like new for cheap. Couldn’t pass it up. I’ve used it twice.

I have been using my no. 7 more then any other one plane. Flattening out 1 face be for going threw the planer, edge jointing, smoothing out panels after glue ups, as a shooting plane.
Just goes to show that there is no end all be all way to wood work.

Still I would say get a no. 4 or 4-1/2 for your next plane.

[John McKissick]

I bought a 30" wood jointer not very long ago. Maybe it is the new toy thing going on, but I pull it out on everything. For me the long jointer helps my lack of ability to get a straight edge with a shorter plane. But I also didn't have a jointer or planer machine when I bought it. If I already had machines like you, I would likely get a 5 or 4.

30 inches! That's a beast

[Harold Patterson]

Without a doubt a smoother. I would suggest a #4. The #4 in addition to smoothing can do some short jointing as well. I would work with these two planes for a while before looking to add anymore planes. Good luck.

[Josh Robinson]

I’ve concluded that anything more than three planes is for collectors (like many of us become) or professional woodworkers (who do a lot of linear feet of a variety of planing task). I’ve found that lately I seem to keep a 102 block plane, a number 4 and a number 6 on the bench. With the number 6 getting more and more play time....

[steven c newman]

So far. on this little box project...I have used a WR 62....a Millers Falls No. 11 ( Stanley #5-1/4) as a jointer, and today a Stanley No.4, Type 10,,
443111
443110
443112
The No. 4 also planed the sides of the box nice and smooth

There was one other plane needed..
443113
Stanley No. 45, Type 20

Ymmv, according to the size of the project being worked on..

[Jim Koepke]

I’ve concluded that anything more than three planes is for collectors (like many of us become) or professional woodworkers (who do a lot of linear feet of a variety of planing task). I’ve found that lately I seem to keep a 102 block plane, a number 4 and a number 6 on the bench. With the number 6 getting more and more play time....

It really depends on what a person does whether amateur, hobbyist or professional.

With only the three planes mentioned how do you cut slots for box bottoms?

443136

Or rabbets?

443137

It is convenient to have a shoulder plane to clean up a rough rabbet:

443138

Having a plane to round over a sharp shoulder is also an improvement on leaving things rough:

443139

Before all of this was done the pieces were trued with a #6 and smoothed with a #3 & #4.

It is true one can do basic joining, flattening and smoothing with a three plane set up. Especially if one is working the same projects repeatedly. If one is always making different sizes of different objects it is easier to work with tools sized for the job.

A realistic way to determine what planes one should acquire is to first determine which plane is the best suited for what one wants it to do.

jtk

[John McKissick]

Without a doubt a smoother. I would suggest a #4. The #4 in addition to smoothing can do some short jointing as well. I would work with these two planes for a while before looking to add anymore planes. Good luck.

Thank you all for your suggestions. I have a lead on a used "family" of 3, 4 and 5 planes that look in be in very good condition.

[Josh Robinson]

It really depends on what a person does whether amateur, hobbyist or professional.

With only the three planes mentioned how do you cut slots for box bottoms?

443136

Or rabbets?

443137

It is convenient to have a shoulder plane to clean up a rough rabbet:

443138

Having a plane to round over a sharp shoulder is also an improvement on leaving things rough:

443139

Before all of this was done the pieces were trued with a #6 and smoothed with a #3 & #4.

It is true one can do basic joining, flattening and smoothing with a three plane set up. Especially if one is working the same projects repeatedly. If one is always making different sizes of different objects it is easier to work with tools sized for the job.

A realistic way to determine what planes one should acquire is to first determine which plane is the best suited for what one wants it to do.

jtk

Jim

I may have been a bit over simplistic to make a point in response to the OPs question about which “second” plane to get. But your point is taken and certainly valid.

[Scott Linge]

John, I'm kind of a beginner in planes but now have several. I bought a used Lie-Nielson No. 4 Smooth Plane in bronze from Ebay about 7 years ago. It was a very good price but the blade was hollow ground and it cost me $20 to have a machinist square the blade and flat grind the face. I use this plane most often of the planes I own.

[Christopher Charles]

All I can add is be careful. One cat leads to two cats leads to cat lady.... (and there's nothing wrong with cat ladies, right?)

[steven c newman]

Careful...they do tend to "multiply"...
444057
No. 4 sized smoothers...or...
444058
The No. 3 sized smoothers....

jack planes are just as bad....

[Joe A Faulkner]

I am late to this discussion. I’m not sure if you closed the deal on the set you mentioned. My initial thought was similar to Steven’s recommendation of a #5. Then my second thought was it doesn’t matter because I suspect within a few weeks you will buy another one followed by a some sharpening stones or diamond stones. You are likely to add #4 to your collection followed by either a jointer or shoulder plane. Then you might get pulled into the molding plane vortex or the woody bug. So many planes and so little time. Then there are chisels and on it goes. Keep us posted.

[John McKissick]

Careful...they do tend to "multiply"...
444057
No. 4 sized smoothers...or...
444058
The No. 3 sized smoothers....

jack planes are just as bad....

Mine grew from one to 4 just like that.

[John McKissick]

I am late to this discussion. I’m not sure if you closed the deal on the set you mentioned. My initial thought was similar to Steven’s recommendation of a #5. Then my second thought was it doesn’t matter because I suspect within a few weeks you will buy another one followed by a some sharpening stones or diamond stones. You are likely to add #4 to your collection followed by either a jointer or shoulder plane. Then you might get pulled into the molding plane vortex or the woody bug. So many planes and so little time. Then there are chisels and on it goes. Keep us posted.

I found a used set in good condition consisting of a 3, 4 and 5 brand name "Record" for a price less than I could get one plane of medium quality. Also found some good raw "chip" stock

[Jim Koepke]

Also found some good raw "chip" stock

Maybe it is my age and not understanding the language of younger folks. What is "good raw "chip" stock"?

jtk