Axe Fun

[Erich Weidner]

I have to admit, I'm having a great time learning to use my axe to fell some (small) trees. My back yard, though small, is cluttered with Ashe Juniper (locally known as *@! Ceder, as most of us in Central Texas are allergic to it's pollen). We want to do some landscaping, but with no budget to hire this out, I've started myself. I might be able to use these for turning something on the lathe, or just lathe practice.

At any rate my first kills...
442769 442770

[Scott Winners]

Nice. I have an dedicated inexpensive hatchet to use to cut through roots while digging out stumps. I got it at Kroger's for like 8 bucks and when I get a nick in the edge whacking dirt I don't care. Good luck!

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Need to get an Alaskan mill to turn those trees into some wood. :-)

Fastest way I found to remove stumps about that size is to use a saber saw and you just shove the blade into the ground and you can cut through the roots. Published something about it in Family Handyman some years back. Works like a charm, but you need to understand what is buried in the area (if anything). Near me, when they run cable and/or telephone, they bury the lines not more than an inch deep, it is a bit insane.

[Jason Buresh]

What kind if axe do you have? Appears swedish.

I have the Husqvarna small forest axe for felling trees on my family's land and camping. Its the same axe as the hults bruk but with a Husqvarna logo and no polishing. With a little knowledge, time, and skill, they can be turned into a real workhorse. I usually sand the crappy finish off the handles and coat in linseed oil. Its quality steel but some time spent polishing the cheeks and honing the edge is time well spent. Here is my hatchet, small forest axe, and splitting maul.
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I also picked up an Atkins crosscut saw recently for $8. I plan on making a new handle and putting it to work.
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[Erich Weidner]

What kind if axe do you have? Appears swedish.



Yes indeed, Gransfors Bruk (Scandinavian) Forest Axe. (I also got a hatchet and large splitting axe, same make).
Sadly, I only have about a dozen of these Juniper trees to chop down... then I'll be out of targets.

One interesting thing for me is that there seems to be quite a bit of overlap along the whole product line. It was hard to settle on them. I settled on these three. Splitting axe works great for its intended purpose.
Limbing these small trees I discovered that though the forest axe initially mostly felt too long and unwieldy for taking off the branches, but it went through the small ones like butter. I was pretty sure the hatchet would be better suited.
But, when I tried the hatchet, the tiny branches gave way without much fuss, but the 1/2" - 1" branches took a lot more effort and felt like it was hitting a wall, vs the forest axe which just sailed through.

More practice needed.

Nice collection BTW! I would love to find a vintage crosscut saw like that... just no idea where to find one.
How are you storing them? I've got them in a bucket right now... would like to get up on a wall or something.

Here is my initial foray... 442894


(well except for the BORG bought Truper "Michigan" axe. Made in Mexico. There is a slight bend in the steel... It isn't even straight. But it managed to split firewood, so I guess even marginal quality will do. (Sharpening it though left lots of metal on my stones, compared to the Gransfors Bruk axes... and some wierd coating on the steel I could never get off... I think I may just donate it to goodwill)

[Erich Weidner]

Need to get an Alaskan mill to turn those trees into some wood. :-)


These are so small in diameter... I think I could use some for spindle turning practice, but otherwise... firewood probably.

[Erich Weidner]

Fastest way I found to remove stumps about that size is to use a saber saw and you just shove the blade into the ground and you can cut through the roots. Published something about it in Family Handyman some years back. Works like a charm, but you need to understand what is buried in the area (if anything). Near me, when they run cable and/or telephone, they bury the lines not more than an inch deep, it is a bit insane.

My backyard is basically an inch or so of dirt and then generally solid limestone slabs. When I put in the fence posts you can see in the background, had to rent a jackhammer. (I'm from PA originally, and bought a post hole digger... ha!!! said the limestone).

[Jason Buresh]

Ah, Granfors Bruks. I argue that they are one of the highest quality axes available today. Very nice collection. There isnt much you cant do with that set.

Im not familiar with the BORG brand. From what you say they dont sound very high quality. If you are ever looking for an inexpensive axe, I like the collins brand. They are headquartered in michigan i believe and their customer service is excellent in my experience. They are available at Ace hardware stores i believe, or at least around here they are.

I live in Wisconsin, and we have a pretty substantial logging history up here. I can find old crosscut saws by the dozens up here. If you are interested in one send me a PM and i can keep my eyes open for you. If you don't mind covering the shipping we could work something out

I store mine hanging on the wall. I have leather cords though the handle holes and hang them on nails by the cord. If storing in a bucket i would be sure to have a sheath on the edge to protect your edge.

As far as limbing i prefer my axe for smaller branches. I always stand on the opposite side of the trunk from the branch to avoid an axe to the shin. The hatchet works good on felling smaller trees and small limbing tasks. If the limbs get too thick, i usually grab my bow saw of chainsaw, depending on what im doing.

[Erich Weidner]

I store mine hanging on the wall. I have leather cords though the handle holes and hang them on nails by the cord. If storing in a bucket i would be sure to have a sheath on the edge to protect your edge.


These all have leather sheaths (not in photo), and I oil them after use. I was thinking about a big enough nail to hang from the wall. But, doh! a leather cord on a smaller nail would be easier. I think I'll do that.

[Scott Winners]

While the thread is open and current I will put in a plug for the Fiskars line as a bang for the buck budget choice. I have a hatchet, chopping axe and a splitting maul all by Fiskars.

For the money, the chopping axe and hatchet are good deals. The splitting maul ( I have an x27 among the previously offered x25, x27 and x29) is the single best splitting maul I have ever owned. All the rest of the mauls I have ever owned got rehomed at our first garage sale after I got the x27. I do mostly use a hydraulic wood splitter now and only bust maybe a dozen rounds by hand annually any more, but I have swung a few mauls in my day.

I have no doubt the Gransfors is good product. Though I have never worked one, the balance on the ones I have hefted is exceptional. If I could only keep one of each I would keep the Fiskars maul, my vintage Vaughn hatchet and vintage Collins axe, the latter two with handmade hickory hafts, and trips to the blacksmith in the restoration process. If you need an off the shelf solution today Gransfors is the horse to beat, Fiskars is a solid performer for the price. I have never swung a Gransfors maul.

I do agree any axe or hatchet worth sharpening should have a detachable blade guard. Whether it should be stored in leather or only placed in leather when it is leaving the shop is a disputable matter I cannot address in the reader's exact situation. The Fiskars axe and hatchet come wth plastic blade guards that are adequate for preventing rust, the maul does (did) not. Local to me I face extreme humidity swings and prefer to store the edges open to air, only applying leather when the edge is traveling. If you are storing in leather and have no rust, keep doing that.

[Rob Lee]

Need to get an Alaskan mill to turn those trees into some wood. :-)

Fastest way I found to remove stumps about that size is to use a saber saw and you just shove the blade into the ground and you can cut through the roots. Published something about it in Family Handyman some years back. Works like a charm, but you need to understand what is buried in the area (if anything). Near me, when they run cable and/or telephone, they bury the lines not more than an inch deep, it is a bit insane.

Yeah - look before you saw.....

I was using a sawzall at my son's... and hit a 30A plus two 15A circuits....where they weren't supposed to be....

Somewhat startling when it happens.

Cheers -

Rob

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Yeah - look before you saw.....

I was using a sawzall at my son's... and hit a 30A plus two 15A circuits....where they weren't supposed to be....

Somewhat startling when it happens.

Cheers -

Rob

Ouch, to say the least!

[mike stenson]

Yeah - look before you saw.....

I was using a sawzall at my son's... and hit a 30A plus two 15A circuits....where they weren't supposed to be....

Somewhat startling when it happens.

Cheers -

Rob


Yikes! Thank goodness for double insulated tools!

[Rob Lee]

Yikes! Thank goodness for double insulated tools!

Melted the edge of the blade...almost an explosion. Wires had been pulled behind the top plate of a basement stud wall....couldn’t see them, and in retrospect, I should have felt behind the piece I was cutting.

A valuable lesson.