Orange peel look after spray lacquer

[Thomas Wilson80]

I’ve used Deft spray lacquer on a couple of larger pieces with great results but tried it on a small box and got orange peel texture. I sanded and re-tried using less but still got it (subtle, but definitely not the glassy look I am going for on this piece). Is this usually due to too much being sprayed on at once or not enough? Any tips/advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, Tom

[Don Stephan]

Are environmental conditions (air temp, humidity level) now different from previous successful uses? Is the applicator closer to or further from the surface now? Was the applicator moved faster or slower than before?

[Thomas Wilson80]

Are environmental conditions (air temp, humidity level) now different from previous successful uses? Is the applicator closer to or further from the surface now? Was the applicator moved faster or slower than before?

it was cooler today than last time I did it (spring) but otherwise I tried to mimic the motions/speed/distance. Because it’s a small object, I wonder if I’m spraying too much on. Tried to decrease the second time but maybe it’s still too much.

[Brice Rogers]

I've noticed the same thing with Deft. I think that it might help a bit to lower the viscosity by pre-heating the can (boiling water - double boiler) and possibly even the work piece (hot air gun). Besides lowering the viscosity a bit, it will also increase the air pressure. An old can may have lower pressure. Also apply it quickly and stop when reflections show that you have wetted the surface.

If your lathe speed can go down to around 50 or 60 rpm, perhaps mask off your lathe that spray while slowly spinning. That will also help to eliminate runs.

Just my thoughts....

[Brice Rogers]

A second thought - - if you have orange peel, perhaps wet sand the surface with some very fine grit (2000 or higher?) like what an expert car painter would do followed by some very fine rubbing compound.

Perhaps google correcting orange peel on car paint.

[Richard Coers]

Are you asking about a rattle can application? Those nozzles are horrible for orange peel. I'd suggest you get touch up gun at Harbor Freight and spray it that way.

[George Rousis]

I like Deft spray a lot but always get some orange peel. I get good results with wet sanding using 1000 - 2000 grit Abralon foam pad, then Maquiars polishing compound. Result is like glass.

[Thomas Wilson80]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I sanded back with 400 grit and retried. I found that shaking the can longer beforehand and trying to be very steady without spraying too much while spraying eliminated most of the irregularities. Will try to post some pictures when I get the time.


I like Deft spray a lot but always get some orange peel. I get good results with wet sanding using 1000 - 2000 grit Abralon foam pad, then Maquiars polishing compound. Result is like glass.

Interesting! After wet sanding with 2000 grit what do you do (ie buff, renaissance wax or nothing)?

Thanks,
Tom

[John King]

I've noticed the same thing with Deft. I think that it might help a bit to lower the viscosity by pre-heating the can (boiling water - double boiler) and possibly even the work piece (hot air gun). Besides lowering the viscosity a bit, it will also increase the air pressure. An old can may have lower pressure. Also apply it quickly and stop when reflections show that you have wetted the surface.

If your lathe speed can go down to around 50 or 60 rpm, perhaps mask off your lathe that spray while slowly spinning. That will also help to eliminate runs.

Just my thoughts....

The idea of heating the can (regardless of method) is a very bad one. Application of heat to a pressurized can of spray paint (Deft in this case) will increase the pressure in the can. At some temperature the pressure in the can will increase to a level that causes the can to rupture. Likely result is uncontrolled rupture of the can and personal injury. - John

[Thomas Wilson80]

The idea of heating the can (regardless of method) is a very bad one. Application of heat to a pressurized can of spray paint (Deft in this case) will increase the pressure in the can. At some temperature the pressure in the can will increase to a level that causes the can to rupture. Likely result is uncontrolled rupture of the can and personal injury. - John

While I haven't been actively heating the can, I have taken it inside when it has been cold the last couple of days and maybe that has also helped to minimize the orange peel.
thanks
Tom

[Prashun Patel]

I suspect the temperature is the culprit. The material has to atomize properly and flow out properly. A lower temperature could be making the material slightly thicker. The nozzle may also not be completely clean. These things would cause too large particles to be emitted, which don't flow out and level properly.

If you are spraying too close and too thick, that could also cause it - but you have had luck before so I suspect it's not your technique.

The surface temperature could also be affecting the leveling. I've heard advice that the best thing is to keep the finish and the work piece indoors and to give both time to reach a reasonably warm temperature before spraying.

Last (dumb question alert): Deft makes wb spray finish that's easy to confuse with the original. You're using the original, correct?

[John King]

My woodturning buddies that have magnificent success with lacquer finishes use the "rule of 65." Best lacquer finish is obtained when the temperature is above 65 deg F and the humidity is below 65%. Don't know origin of this rule or scientific basis for it, but it works for them. - John

[Thomas Wilson80]

Last (dumb question alert): Deft makes wb spray finish that's easy to confuse with the original. You're using the original, correct?

Thanks for the info, I suspect you are correct.
Not sure what "wb finish" is but this is what I bought:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71A10edQXrL._AC_SY879_.jpg

[Prashun Patel]

sorry... waterbased

[Thomas Wilson80]

443517

Here is where I’m at now on this piece. There is a tiny bit of orange peel but barely discernible. I may try wet sanding with high grit (1000-2000) but don’t have experience doing that. Anyone have suggestions or care to share your methods (I.e. what do you use to wet sand a lacquer-sprayed piece)?

Thanks, Tom

[Brice Rogers]

The idea of heating the can (regardless of method) is a very bad one. Application of heat to a pressurized can of spray paint (Deft in this case) will increase the pressure in the can. At some temperature the pressure in the can will increase to a level that causes the can to rupture. Likely result is uncontrolled rupture of the can and personal injury. - John

All things need to be done with caution, moderation and common sense. I would not heat up a full can. Nor would I put it close to an ignition source while heating. But when the can is perhaps half full (or less) I've put the in the sun and have also put them into a pan of hot water. On one can I saw this printed: "Danger - extremely flammable, contents under pressure, do not expose to temperatures exceeding 122 degrees." This raises an interesting advisory though - - that a person should probably not leave a spray paint can in a car in sun in the summer.

But you are probably right, there is some danger to heating the can and the danger increases as the can is more full. So, others should not try this.

[Mike Nathal]

I wet sand with wet/dry SiC paper. I usually just do 400 grit followed by Beall buffing. There are many who instead of buffing use automotive polishes.

[Thomas Wilson80]

I wet sand with wet/dry SiC paper. I usually just do 400 grit followed by Beall buffing. There are many who instead of buffing use automotive polishes.


Thanks for the reply. Do you just use water to wet it? and can wet-sanding be done off the lathe, or do I need to make a jam chuck and do it on the lathe for it to be effective?
Thanks, Tom

[Mike Nathal]

Thanks for the reply. Do you just use water to wet it? and can wet-sanding be done off the lathe, or do I need to make a jam chuck and do it on the lathe for it to be effective?
Thanks, Tom
I use tap water with a few drops of dishwashing detergent. I do this off the lathe with a 2x2 inch square piece of sandpaper.

[Thomas Wilson80]

I use tap water with a few drops of dishwashing detergent. I do this off the lathe with a 2x2 inch square piece of sandpaper.


Thanks for the info. Mike. I've never done that but would like to give it a shot.

Tom

[robert baccus]

Been spraying lacquer for 60 years on cars, bowls ect. At this point in finishing you will have orange peel period. a fact. Now knock it down by wet sanding with 440 SP or steel wool. Obtain some various grades of compounds (or compounds mixed with carnuba wax) at auto part stores and rub down to your fav. sheen, by power or hand. I do all my finishing (semi-pro) on the lathe, turnig at various speeds. Standard lacquer finishing procedure. Old Forester Ps------Wet sanding should always be done wih soapy water----spraying with lac. retarder sometimes helps, it is merely a slow drying lac. thinnner--great to melt out fogged lac. due to humidity. very useful stuff,.