Operating a SawStop contractor saw, without under-the-table dust collection.

[Steven Woodward]

Has anyone tried operating a SawStop contractor saw, without the dust collection hooked up to the 4 inch port under the table ?


With my old Rockwell contractor saw the sawdust just forms a pile under the saw, but the SawStop has a dust shroud under the table, that directs the dust to the 4 inch port.

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[Jim Becker]

You really should be evacuating dust/chips from that hood...

[Frank Pratt]

At least connect a shop vac to the port. That will keep the dust from piling up too deep in the shroud.

[glenn bradley]

Let me take a different approach. Let's say you roll the saw out into the driveway for use or are using it somewhere else that is not enclosed and has a good breeze. Apparently it doesn't matter . . . the manual states clearly:

"Dust Collection
Your SawStop® saw includes a dust shroud around the blade to provide better dust collection than ordinary
contractor saws (see Fig. 25). Connect a suitable dust collection system to the dust port on the bottom of the
dust shroud and always use the dust collection system when making a cut."

It is not clear whether this is to prevent misfires or if Saw Stop is just looking out for your health (as we all ought to). I would call or write them and ask if there is any inherent danger outside of breathing the dust that makes them 'require' a dust collector be hooked up. I can't imagine that many people drag their saw AND a dust collector to the job site. Although a couple of misfires would but a small portable collector.

[Stan Calow]

I have one. Its been hard for me to keep a hose attached to the dust shroud, for some reason**. So occasionally, its fallen off and I've operated without any suction. When that happens, and I remove the insert, I see dust packed in the area around the blade and in the chute leading to the shroud. And after a while, more sawdust comes out the top. So . . .

FWIW I wouldn't consider the SS contractor saw a job site saw. I think its more than 200 pounds and I ain't moving it from the basement again.

** the shroud end has a very short lip before it starts to flare out and up. So I haven't been able to get a secure fit for a 4" hose or adaptor without some filing and a lot of duct tape. I talked to SS about it, and didn't get any good solutions. I'll figure it out someday.

[Jim Dwight]

I have a pcs which may be different but I found the fit of 4 inch hose to be pretty good. My PCS has 4 inch hose inside to connect the shroud to the port.

I tried my shop vac on my PCS but dust would build up inside the saw until it was throwing it out the top. Didn't seem to hurt the saw. Might make the motor hotter. I think one reason the shop vac wasn't very effective is all the large openings in the cabinet.

[Stan Calow]

The PCS is different. The contractors saw doesn't come with a rear panel port. The dust collection shroud directs dust down and to the left ending in a short port. On page 27 of the manual https://www.sawstop.com/images/uploads/manuals/Manual_CNS_2.pdf Without extraction on that port, some dust comes out, but much of it stays inside the shroud.

[Steven Woodward]

Thanks to all for sharing your experience, facts, and suggestions. I will install dust collection at the same time as SawStop. That way health (dust) and safety (SawStop) are both improved. I justify the cost to myself on the basis of health and safety - then the other benefits are free: precision table saw and fence, plus cleaner shop that is more enjoyable to work in.

My current plan is a Rockler 1250 CFM Dust Right with Canister Filter (https://www.rockler.com/dust-right-wall-mount-dust-collector-with-canister-filter-1250-cfm) connected to a 5 inch Oneida Cyclone (https://www.oneida-air.com/super-dust-deputy-5-inch-cyclone-separator) . These will be mounted vertically to save floor space: Dust Right bolted to ceiling and cyclone sitting over a drum on the floor. Table saw, Jointer, Thickness planner, and a bench doubling as cut off table, will be arranged as an island around the vertical dust collection system, located in the centre of shop. Then a short 5 inch diameter hose can be connected from cyclone to any machine. I'll run another 1.5 inch diameter hose off of the cyclone to connect to sander, chop saw, bandsaw, etc. as they are used - the same hose can connect to the SawStop dust collecting blade guard.

[Steven Woodward]

Got my SawStop and Dust collection set up a while ago and it all works good.

My goal was a dust collection system that was:; automated so that I did not have to think about it; absolute minimum of floor space; and no ducts running along the walls or ceiling because I don’t have the space for that.

My solution is to arrange dust collection and major tools as an island in the centre of the shop. Dust drum sits between the rails of table saw so it does not take additional floor space. Cyclone sits on dust drum. Blower and filter hang from the ceiling over the cyclone . This arrangement keeps ducting short and out of the way. The island of tools is only 7 feet x 7 feet and includes: table saw, 8" long bed jointer, 13" thickness planer, cut-off table that doubles as a bench, and dust collection system.

First chapter of this video shows the setup and remainder of video shows details of each component. https://youtu.be/QBrFtpTK-5k

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[Rick Potter]

Nicely done Steven. I especially like the way you handled the small amount of dust under the filter.

[Cynthia Standley]

Did you ever find a solution for keeping the dust hose attached? I haven't. I've pretty much just let it go. Have you tried Izzy Swan's quicklox now sold by Magswitch?

[Steven Woodward]

Did you ever find a solution for keeping the dust hose attached? I haven't. I've pretty much just let it go. Have you tried Izzy Swan's quicklox now sold by Magswitch?

I now have a permanent dust collection system. The hose is secured to table saw port with a band clamp. I like the bridged band clamps, such as Powertec 70226 or Lee Valley Bridge hose clamp. These clamps are sold in left and and right hand versions depending on the flexible ducting used, so check your ducting before ordering.

Here is a video of my dust collection system. https://youtu.be/QBrFtpTK-5k (https://youtu.be/QBrFtpTK-5k)

[Cynthia Standley]

I have the same problem. Did you ever figure it out? I'm trying to figure out now how to lay the saw on it's side by myself and see if I can invent something.

[Steven Woodward]

I have the same problem. Did you ever figure it out? I'm trying to figure out now how to lay the saw on it's side by myself and see if I can invent something.

You could join this group. They are very good for helping out with SawStop Questions

https://www.facebook.com/groups/sawstopusersgroup

[Stan Calow]

I have the same problem. Did you ever figure it out? I'm trying to figure out now how to lay the saw on it's side by myself and see if I can invent something.

I would not lay it on the side. If you want to get better access to the bottom, it would be better to elevate it somehow, maybe a pallet jack. On tis side, the weight of the heavy top parts hanging in a direction they weren't designed for could twist something out of alignment. Like a refrigerator or TV. I do think someone has to come up with a different aftermarket chute that allows better connections to hoses and ducts. Mine is duct=taped on and it always precarious.

[Rick Potter]

Back in the day, my dad did a simple boxing in of his Sears contractor saw, using 1/4" ply attached to the legs and put a 4" fitting on the back. The open areas on the back side were blocked with plastic magnetic sign material.

Simplistic, but cheap and effective.

[Ted Baxter]

You could join this group. They are very good for helping out with SawStop Questions

https://www.facebook.com/groups/sawstopusersgroup


I have the SS contractor's saw shown in the photo above. I used a ban clamp bought from Lowes it has never come off in over two years of use. Just make sure to force it as far on as possible and make sure clamp is tight.

I guess one could use double sided tape and a corse sandpaper wraped around the duct might work but again mine has never come loose.