moving a heavy workbench

[joe webb]

Hello all,

I have been doing more woodworking in the past couple years, and like most of you, built my own workbench so I don't have to work on the floor.
Given I don't have my own dedicated workshop space, I have to roll out my workbench and table saw on my driveway.

I have a problem when moving the workbench back into the garage. There is a change in elevation of about 3/4" between the garage floor and the driveway (where the garage door meets the floor). My workbench is on 4" casters and it is rather heavy for me to lift to over that ridge.

I am looking for suggestion on how to move this workbench around, but also interested in tips from setting workspace on the driveway.

Many thanks

[Charlie Velasquez]

Buy a pack or two of cedar door shims at your local big box for $1.95, the longer ones.
Lay them down at the threshold, building them up for both length and height so as the incline is not too steep. I would go about 1/16” or an 1/8” high, personally.

When you think you have it, Mark the edges, the glue them together.

Normally I would just cut the “ramp” from a single piece of lumber, but 3/4” over a foot or so would be difficult.
And I would expect it to split. By laminating it you can fine tune it as needed, and the glue will improve strength and help decrease the chances of splitting.

edit: 1/2” or 1/4” ply with shims under to support weight?

[Doug Garson]

Can you make up a wedge shaped transition piece to help climb the step?
Looks like Carlie is faster on the keyboard than me :)

[ChrisA Edwards]

I agree with making a mini ramp to get over your garage door threshold.

But here's another thought, if the bench is super heavy, get an electric hoist/winch or a manual come-along, drop an eyebolt, removable if necessary, in the garage floor and winch your bench back into the garage.

[Jim Becker]

Can you make up a wedge shaped transition piece to help climb the step?


This. And the larger version is a...ramp. :)

[Bill Dufour]

Saw a 2x4, 2x6, 2x8 etc to make two ramps. I see this all the time for driveway curbs that have sunk and are seldom used so not worth fixing.
Bill D.

[joe webb]

Thank you all.

Using the door shims is a good idea but it could be hard to line up the wheels given the shims are barely 1.5" wide.
I previously tried to cut a wedge from a 2x4 but no luck so far. That would have given me a 3.5" wide wedge to roll over.

But now that you brought up the door shim, I am thinking of glueing a bunch of them side by side to the back of 1/4" plywood to give me a wider ramp.

[David Publicover]

I have a similar situation with my garage. I just lay a piece of 1/4” plywood down with some scrap of appropriate thickness under for support in a few places. So far it has worked fine. I moved a 400 lb. bandsaw over it with a pallet jack recently with no issues.

[Anuj Prateek]

For moving my jointer I built kind of mini steps.

I basically glued 1/8" hardboard of decreasing width together. Kind of mini stairs. If I remember correctly, it was 1.5" high (threshold height) and some 18" wide.

Was able to drag jointer over it with little effort. Jointer base had 2" wheels. After work, I used to store those mini stairs behind jointer, out of sight.

[Steve Eure]

Something that I would try would be to use my mobile base handle that goes to my Rikon bandsaw. It has two wheels close together on a long handle. Use it like a fulcrum to lift the bench and pull it along. I think that would work if you could cobble something like that.

https://www.infinitytools.com/rikon-mobility-kit-for-14-pro-bandsaws-10-350-10-351?gclid=CjwKCAjwn9v7BRBqEiwAbq1Ey4-HVY0S1yiHfWiKgI5O-tO6KQFmM-QTPEfhCAmR9h4MkiAxaRlKxxoC5QYQAvD_BwE

This is a link to the one I have. Look at the picture to see the handle.

[Floyd Mah]

Use a pry bar or small crowbar to lever up the end of the workbench. A short 12" pry bar should work.
I would screw a small cleat to each leg to give you a place for the end of the pry bar. Place a small block of wood under the pry bar as a fulcrum. Put your weight on the pry bar's free end by standing on it. When the workbench is elevated, place a 3/4" piece of wood under the caster so that it can roll on the wood into your garage. Do this to both sides. Push the workbench in. If needed, do the same to the trailing end of the workbench.
I have two such pry bars. You can work wonders with these simple tools.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Bigger softer wheels also help.

[John Goodin]

If you go with the door shims the plastic ones may be last long since they are less prone to cracking.

[Jim Matthews]

Thank you all.

Using the door shims is a good idea but it could be hard to line up the wheels given the shims are barely 1.5" wide.
I previously tried to cut a wedge from a 2x4 but no luck so far. That would have given me a 3.5" wide wedge to roll over.

But now that you brought up the door shim, I am thinking of glueing a bunch of them side by side to the back of 1/4" plywood to give me a wider ramp.

Cedar shingles are about 4" wide and similarly tapered.

Is there any solid anchor point for a snatch block or winch?

[Keith Westfall]

Clean up the area real good, and then pour a tapered (topping) cement ramp wide enough for your bench. You could make the taper long enough for an easy roll, and it shouldn't be in the way for anything.

[Rick Potter]

If you have a bandsaw, just tilt the table and resaw an angle on a 2x6 about a foot long. Presto: two foot long shims.