Safety options for my 'naked' PM66

[Clifford McGuire]

I have an approx. 25 year old PM66 table saw. I got it used, and it came with no safety equipment.

I'm confused about what's available. Would a Shark Guard be best? Do I get both the blade guard and the splitter? Or the riving knife? What cuts wouldn't that work with?

Or should I get something else?

Would the Jess-EM stock guides work with the Shark Guard?

Thanks in advance!

[Frank Pratt]

Get both a guard and a splitter/riving knife. A riving knife is better, if you can get one to fit your saw. I consider a riving knife to be a more important safety feature than even SawStop's blade brake. I've never used a Shark guard, but have heard nothing but good things about it.

[Mike Kees]

I have a Sharkguard on my Unisaw. It is the A.R.K. model( adjustable riving knife). This guard is really well made from quality materials and works well. The dust collection is pretty well perfect unless you shave off an edge of something. Mine has a 3'' dust connection and if I did it again I might try the 2.5'' one. It works so well that I have to leave the blast gate half closed or it sucks up thin offcuts. The riving knife has to be adjusted for height by hand ,but is the real deal other than that.

[Jim Matthews]

If there are children in the house, get a plug lock and use it.

https://www.amazon.com/Brady-65674-Volt-Plug-Device/dp/B001D4D7SY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=electrical+plug+lock&qid=1601549151&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMUJYNUVNUVhXMkJOJ mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTc1OTEzMU1SSUk4TlZBT1VETSZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDAyNTc0MThJUTEzOENaUTZaVCZ3aWRnZ XROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05 vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[Jim Dwight]

You cannot use a guard for very thin cuts since it interferes with the rip fence. You can't use either the riving knife or the guard for dado cuts. The reason the riving knife is important is it helps to prevent kickback by blocking rotation of the workpiece away from the blade. Kickback is a major cause of injuries and bad ones. I think a shark guard is a good choice.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Get both a guard and a splitter/riving knife. A riving knife is better, if you can get one to fit your saw. I consider a riving knife to be a more important safety feature than even SawStop's blade brake.

I replaced my saw because it did not have a splitter / riving knife. Well, I could have purchased one but it was complicated to install and I would have needed to remove it to use a dado. In the interim, I used the MJ Splitter.

I ended up with a SawStop for the blade brake, but to be clear, I replaced my saw because it did not have the riving knife.

As Frank mentioned, you are more likely to have a kickback without using a splitter or riving knife than you are to accidentally contact the blade. The kickback, depending on how, might push your body parts into the blade (double bad). At the very least, consider the MJ Splitter until you work out how to deal with your final solution.

[Matt Day]

Shark guard sells just a splitter, or the blade guard/dust collection combined with the adjustable splitter. I’ve got two of the Ark’s in my TS and am very happy with them. Honestly, I mainly got them for DC but am happy with the added safety. A said, can’t be used for narrow cuts (less than 3” or so, because you can’t push through the wood as the guard blocks it. Also has to be taken off for dados. It’s about a 5 second job to remove the guard, and another 20 seconds to remove or adjust the splitter. Very nice and well made product.

[Alex Zeller]

If 25 years old your PM66 should be the gold color. If so it most likely is one that came with a factory splitter. Does it have a rod sticking out the back behind the saw blade? If not is there a hole that looks like a tilted smile face? My PM66 was made in 95 and came with most, but not all the parts for the splitter. The factory splitter had a clunky blade guard that I wouldn't worry about but it also has anti kick back pawls that (are still available) I would want. If you still have the rod is there a metal bracket on it? If so you've got most of the pieces you'll need.

[Mark Carlson]

I have the original shark guard with splitters and love it. The guard has a dust port which is great. The splitters come in 3 sizes, small, medium and large depending on the material thickness you are cutting. Splitters come on and off really easily. The riving knife option wasn't and isnt offered for my saw, otherwise I would have upgraded to it.

[Marc Fenneuff]

I put a Shark Guard on my new-to-me PM66 and love it. Dust collection is superb too. Lee ships a small stand-alone splitter to complement the regular and tall splitters that hold the Shark Guard. Installation only requires the front holding bolt and the guard comes with a ratcheting lever to fasten.
Highly recommended.

Regular splitter
442347

Shorty splitter (works with my crosscut sled too)
442348

Attachment
442349

Having never used a blade guard on any table saw, I was pleasantly surprised how well the guard works. I use a thin-strip jig for narrow rips so it doesn't cause any issue there. And I can easily swap in the shorty splitter if the guard has to come off (again, crosscut sled).

Can't put a true riving knife on a PM66 on account of the swing of the arbor when elevating the blade.

[Bernie Kopfer]

I have a 18 year old 66 and find that the Shark Guard splitter is the best safety device available for it. Comes in two thicknesses for different kerfs. And with effort can be dialed in to a gnats eyelash. Once the wood is beside the splitter it is much the same as a riving knife. Blade guards are nice until you work with narrow boards and theN they become for me a liability. I have the Jessem stock guides but find them a pain for one off cuts. Great saw, enjoy!

[Matt Day]

FYI, Lee passed a few years ago, but their great customer service lives on through his son Ronnie. I’ve dealt with him on a few occasions and he’s excellent to work with.

[Phillip Mitchell]

This thread has me remembering that I intended to buy a Shark Guard splitter setup for my naked early 90s 66 years ago, and just haven’t gotten around to it. Now that I’m completely reworking my dust collection I will have (2) 4” drops dedicated to the 66 and could benefit from the above the blade dust collection from the Shark Guard, plus the obvious kickback safety benefits.

[Clifford McGuire]

If 25 years old your PM66 should be the gold color. If so it most likely is one that came with a factory splitter. Does it have a rod sticking out the back behind the saw blade? If not is there a hole that looks like a tilted smile face? My PM66 was made in 95 and came with most, but not all the parts for the splitter. The factory splitter had a clunky blade guard that I wouldn't worry about but it also has anti kick back pawls that (are still available) I would want. If you still have the rod is there a metal bracket on it? If so you've got most of the pieces you'll need.

Alex, this is what is behind the blade. I don't have anything else.

442413

I was hoping I could figure out the age from the serial #, but it doesn't look like it.

[glenn bradley]

I use a guard whenever I can. Since the tablesaw is a joinery machine for me as well as a ripping and crosscutting machine I have only the riving knife about 80% of the time. Mine is a bit below the blade height and moves with the carriage so it stays on unless the guard takes its place.

[Alex Zeller]

Alex, this is what is behind the blade. I don't have anything else.

442413

I was hoping I could figure out the age from the serial #, but it doesn't look like it.

That bolt behind the blade is the front mount for the splitter. It's a 3/4" fine threaded bolt with a 3/8" stud in the head. You align the splitter with the blade by turning the 3/4" bolt in or out. The 3/8" nut presses the splitter against the head of the 3/4" bolt. In Marc's last picture you can how his aftermarket splitter is attached. The factory splitter has two attachment points. The second reward one would be the rod and bracket I was talking about. The factory splitter needs to have two attachment points because it also holds the blade guard. With an over the top blade guard with dust extraction mounts to the far right corner of the saw so the splitter is just there to keep the wood from pinching the blade.

[Marc Fenneuff]

Alex, this is what is behind the blade. I don't have anything else.

442413

I was hoping I could figure out the age from the serial #, but it doesn't look like it.

You have the necessary hardware as Alex said. What’s your serial number?

[Rod Sheridan]

You want an overarm guard and a splitter or even better, a riving knife.

My saw came with a riving knife, I added the overarm guard. I now have 3 saw guards, an overarm, a crown guard (stock), and a bridge guard.

Here's a photo of the aftermarket overarm guard on my saw.......Rod.

442437

[mike stenson]

He'd have to toss the PM66 to have an actual riving knife.

I've had a shark guard on my unisaw since Lee first started really prototyping them. For saws pre-riving knife requirements in the US, I do recommend them.

[Matt Day]

You want an overarm guard and a splitter or even better, a riving knife.

My saw came with a riving knife, I added the overarm guard. I now have 3 saw guards, an overarm, a crown guard (stock), and a bridge guard.

Here's a photo of the aftermarket overarm guard on my saw.......Rod.

442437

Pretty sure that’s not a Powermatic 66 Rod! How would he add a riving knife?

[Roger Feeley]

I had an old PM63 and I put a Delta Uniguard on it. Worked great and wasn't a bother.

[Meryl Logue]

Older PM66 cannot Mount RK. I use the Shark setup. Thin splitter works for both kerfs. Just adjust it to the fence side of the blade. Sometimes it takes a light smack with the heel of a hand to fine-tune it.

[Rod Sheridan]

Pretty sure that’s not a Powermatic 66 Rod! How would he add a riving knife?

As I said, splitter or riding knife.

In case he’ll have to use a splitter...Rod