I need a drill press

[Brian Hale]

Budget of $400 - $600. Definitely a floor model and i kina prefer a square table. I've been eyeing up the 22" model from Wilke Machine but there's others out there and i'd like your input.

What i think i want...
Square table
A quill stop other than the kind that goes around the handle
4"+ quill travel
Perhaps one that can do some Very Light milling?

Anything else i should look for?

Thanks!

Brian :)

[Ken Garlock]

Happy New Year, Brian.

I bought this beast (http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.aspx?itemnumber=G7948) from the Grizzly folks about 3 years ago. In retrospect, it is too big for my day to day use, but I guess it was a case of learning by doing.;)

It is, IMO, a good heavy machine. It has the two hex nuts on a threaded rod to provide stops on both ends of the quill travel. The table is rectangular, and it has a 1 1/2 hp. motor. It will be the last DP I will need to buy.

I had lots of fun putting it on a Shop Fox moble base.:rolleyes:

[Jim Becker]

1) Depth stroke should be as long as possible
2) Lowest speed should be "really low" for safe usage of large cutters, such as fly cutters
3) Don't worry about the table shape...you'll want to equip it with a much larger auxilliary table, anyway. Mine is 24" wide by 18" deep on my Jet 17" DP

[Brian Hale]

Ken, the Giz you have is my 2nd choice right now. Looks like a nice machine!

Good point about the table Jim.

Brian :)

[Jim Becker]

Brian, aside from shape and size, another reason you'll want to put an auxiliary table on your DP is that square or round, the DP tables were designed for metal work. In so many ways, they just don't work well for woodworking...including occasional marking of the pieces. That's why I didn't care that my Jet DP had a round table...I haven't "seen" it for years!

[Perry Holbrook]

I've got the Bridgewood DP you're looking at. It's a great machine. Like most DP's the table locking lever is not the most friendly. I replaced it with a threaded rod and a cheap 8" ratchet which does a much better job. I also outfitted a 6" digital scale to the depth stop, makes it a snap to drill holes to exact depth. I also put link belts on the drive system. I'm very happy with the Bridgewood.

Since you're pretty close to Wilke, I would think shipping would be pretty cheap.

Perry

[James Boster]

If your in the 400-600 range I would look for an old walker-turner or rackwell RAM drill. They can't be matched by any of the import drill presses in that price range today. There are a couple on that big internert shopping site for that price range. I beleive that someone here has posted pics of theirs on the site, maybe Dev Emch, not sure. just my 2 cents good luck with whatever you purchase.

[Andy Fox]

Might be a little small for you, but I have the Delta 16 1/2" (17-965 not the DP400). It has 4 7/8" quill travel, 5/8" chuck, and is 3/4 HP. I definitely would get a DP that has a threaded rod depth stop, as I think they're easier to use and more durable. Another nice feature the 17-965 has is a quill lock to hold the bit just above the workpiece for positioning.

My DP is only a few years old, and I opened the motor wiring case a few weeks ago for the first time because I was detaching the motor for the garage to basement move. I discovered the insulation and a few conductor strands were cut on two wires. This could've caused a short or shock hazard, but there was an adequate ground. (Edit: I fixed this with some heat shrink tubing and electrical tape.)

[Allen Bookout]

If your in the 400-600 range I would look for an old walker-turner or rackwell RAM drill. They can't be matched by any of the import drill presses in that price range today. There are a couple on that big internert shopping site for that price range. I beleive that someone here has posted pics of theirs on the site, maybe Dev Emch, not sure. just my 2 cents good luck with whatever you purchase.

I took a look at what I think that you are talking about and if so it appears that there is no manual assist in raising and lowering the table. I have a simular old Buffalo and it is as solid as a rock but I have to put one arm under the table, unlock it with a lever, and horse it up or down. What a pain. I think that I would settle for less quality and a better table adjusting system. Just my experience with it. Could be that I am not seeing it correctly. Allen

[Rob Will]

Regardless of what you get.....
I would install a new Jacobs ball bearing chuck.:)
Variable speed would be nice to have.
Some of the internal depth stops out there are awkward to use. I like the threaded rod approach best.

.02 Rob

[Barry O'Mahony]

I have the G7948, same as Ken. I like the huge table and the wide range of speeds. The light is useful, too. If it matters to you, the machine is made in China. The chuck is a finely-machined thing of beauty, so I suspect it was made in Taiwan rather than the mainland. In contrast, the casting for the table is on the rough side (the slots are rough but servicable), although the top itself is ground flat.

[Barry O'Mahony]

I also outfitted a 6" digital scale to the depth stop, makes it a snap to drill holes to exact depth.'sounds interesting; can you provide more detail.