What's the best way to make these dados

[Alan Lightstone]

I'm redoing my large clamp rack, and to hold in the parallel clamps I need to make dados 2-1/2" deep in wood. My SawStop ICS maxes out with my Freud dado set to about 2-1/4".

These are dados at repeating distances, so I made a typical jig for my miter sled that had a wood plug to place in subsequent slots so that the distance between dados is constant.

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I was wondering what people thought the best way to make these is. I can modifying the sled on my router table with a taller bit, although the odd width might make that a little challenging getting the right sized bit. And 2-1/4" is definitely a tall router bit.

Any other thoughts?

[Jim Dwight]

I would probably drill holes at the bottom of each slot and then cut the sides on the table saw (using the normal 10 inch blade and my Osborne gauge).

[David Buchhauser]

I would probably drill holes at the bottom of each slot and then cut the sides on the table saw (using the normal 10 inch blade and my Osborne gauge).


+1 to that! Or do the pieces on a cnc router table.
David

[Jim Becker]

I do them by pre-drilling the ends of the slots at the drill press and then remove the material at the table saw using a crosscutting fence...two cuts for each slot. It's repetitive, but fast.

I've now switched to a different arrangement for most clamps that is more compact...essentially two arms that support multiple clamps in a row; typically four or five with the support length I chose. I only use the type you show for the really small F-clamps, etc., now. Photo shows what I mean to the left side...since it was taken, more of the same supports were made to take care of the rest of the parallel clamps.

https://5pp8ew.sn.files.1drv.com/y4mqZS89x3XW77a_K7GmxT6RthJtK51aN8h6xnE8LQHu8pfAYS Tw8jnosusaDKS4abf14NnHUW-iIDw07KUQRiHC6Z7xPeGiNgD_dDU5rA2ES81k9h7GtH6wWgmLh A-_Rp107WQYUQbUkegKR1hWH_Fj-fHjhMGFx3bc07G9uFbU81zTfNEkx2pt4yLcHl1c-HhrDISnUd9gIfiM30rGiFaog?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none

[Alan Lightstone]

I do them by pre-drilling the ends of the slots at the drill press and then remove the material at the table saw using a crosscutting fence...two cuts for each slot. It's repetitive, but fast.

I've now switched to a different arrangement for most clamps that is more compact...essentially two arms that support multiple clamps in a row; typically four or five with the support length I chose. I only use the type you show for the really small F-clamps, etc., now. Photo shows what I mean to the left side...since it was taken, more of the same supports were made to take care of the rest of the parallel clamps.

https://5pp8ew.sn.files.1drv.com/y4mqZS89x3XW77a_K7GmxT6RthJtK51aN8h6xnE8LQHu8pfAYS Tw8jnosusaDKS4abf14NnHUW-iIDw07KUQRiHC6Z7xPeGiNgD_dDU5rA2ES81k9h7GtH6wWgmLh A-_Rp107WQYUQbUkegKR1hWH_Fj-fHjhMGFx3bc07G9uFbU81zTfNEkx2pt4yLcHl1c-HhrDISnUd9gIfiM30rGiFaog?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none

I don't have the wall space dedicated for that, Jim. But nice setup.

You need more clamps. Shamefully low number. :rolleyes:

This is my present setup that I've outgrown:
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[Brian Tymchak]

+3. My first thought as well. Drill the stop hole an cut the slot with the cross cut blade or even a dado stack.

[Alan Lightstone]

I would probably drill holes at the bottom of each slot and then cut the sides on the table saw (using the normal 10 inch blade and my Osborne gauge).

Wow. Never thought of that. Which, of course, is why I asked for a better approach.

Any other options?

[johnny means]

Am I the only one who thinks that those "fingers" look a bit fragile?

[glenn bradley]

Am I the only one who thinks that those "fingers" look a bit fragile?


I assume he's hanging small clamps in that fixture. I too have done the 'drill a hole and cut to it' method. I have done this on the bandsaw and the tablesaw depending on the depth required.

[Alan Lightstone]

Am I the only one who thinks that those "fingers" look a bit fragile?


I haven't installed the blocks supporting them yet in the photo. You can see them in my photo of my present clamp rack. Hasn't been an issue in 10 years. The majority of the weight of the parallel clamps sits on the back solid portion of the top piece, not the fingers. Plus now I used 3/4" sapele instead of 1/2" oak in my present one. Pretty sure it will handle the weight of the parallel clamps with ease.

[Bill Dufour]

Why not run the boards flat on the router table. What am I missing? I suppose you could use one of those door lock mortise machines. But that long of a bit is dangerous. They either sell cheap or very expensive.
Bill D.

I was surprised they are still being made.

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-513-Horsepower-Lock-Mortiser/dp/B0000224LA/ref=asc_df_B0000224LA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241901362930&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12091383302243427890&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032279&hvtargid=pla-525074069720&psc=1

[Alan Lightstone]

Why not run the boards flat on the router table. What am I missing?

Another good thought. I'd again have to modify my jig to do that, but that's pretty quick. The diameter of the slots won't match what I presently have, but that's fixable.

I have a Ready-2-Rout system on my router table, so I can actually digitally dial in the exact fence position, and have it move to that.

The nice thing about doing this on the tablesaw with a dado set was that once setup properly, it goes very quickly. Oh well. Pity SawStop doesn't allow a 10" dado set.

[Jim Becker]

That's the thing...stacking reduced the necessary wall space. I'm using half what I was prior to converting to the new clamp racks. 'Just a consideration. Everyone's shop and needs are different, however!

[Andy D Jones]

Jim's photo is an excellent illustration of two different ways to store clamps.

If you look at the clamps at upper left in Jim's picture, you should notice how little wall space is required to store a LOT of clamps. Compare that with the clamps on the right that are still stored the conventional way.

However, even Jim's storage on the left can be improved. If the brackets on the left were alternated at two different heights, then Jim could save even more space width-wise, by having the clamps on the lower racks face left, around or inside the business end of the clamps to their immediate left, thus saving width on the wall, with no loss of access.

Even if you use hinges and overlapping storage racks, I doubt you can exceed the space efficiency of those brackets on the left, especially if they were alternated high/low, with their clamps right/left facing.

Furthermore, if you only store the same size/type clamps on a single "hook", you never have to move other clamps to get to one you need.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Bill Dufour]

You could buy a router bit of the needed diameter or I would make one cut then space over with a scrap of thin wood to recut the dado to a wider size. I suppose it would be quicker to make all the first cuts at once then install the spacer and recut them all again.
Bil lD

[Jim Becker]

Andy, that's true...if I had space the clamp holders just a little wider, I could do second set down a little bit with things facing in the opposite direction as you note. While I'm not about to change these now, I'd consider that for a future shop for sure. Changing my CNC files to accommodate would be pretty darn easy. (there are grooves in the back plate to provide stronger joints between the clamp supports and the back plates...glue in the groove/dado and then screws from behind in countersunk holes. Very solid)

[Brian Tymchak]

https://5pp8ew.sn.files.1drv.com/y4mqZS89x3XW77a_K7GmxT6RthJtK51aN8h6xnE8LQHu8pfAYS Tw8jnosusaDKS4abf14NnHUW-iIDw07KUQRiHC6Z7xPeGiNgD_dDU5rA2ES81k9h7GtH6wWgmLh A-_Rp107WQYUQbUkegKR1hWH_Fj-fHjhMGFx3bc07G9uFbU81zTfNEkx2pt4yLcHl1c-HhrDISnUd9gIfiM30rGiFaog?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none


<Sigh.....> Now I need more clamps... Thanks Jim.. ;)

[Alan Lightstone]

And even the cauls and clamping squares hung neatly. Sigh...

Andy, I agree, Jim's left hand side is more efficient space wise. And a lot cheaper.

On the other hand, I'm retired, bored staying at home due to Covid-19, and needed a new project.

[Alan Lightstone]

So let's go with the fact that I'm significantly into the project, and will still go with the swinging rack design.

On my previous iteration, the individual swinging pieces tended to sag. I used piano hinges for them, but they were small piano hinges, as the wood was only 1/2":
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I have been using 3/4" sapele for the present rack, so both more room to install larger hinges, as well as heavier swinging pieces.

What's the best approach for hinges for these? The depth will be 4", so I can use fairly large hinges, and, I guess, could use beefier piano hinges. Also, they'll be hidden on the far side of the boxes, so really won't be visible from the front.

[Andy D Jones]

And even the cauls and clamping squares hung neatly. Sigh...

Andy, I agree, Jim's left hand side is more efficient space wise. And a lot cheaper.

On the other hand, I'm retired, bored staying at home due to Covid-19, and needed a new project.

I'm right there with you on the last point!

If I understand your rack design, each rack is hinged on the rack behind it? That creates a lot of force on the rear-most hinge, and it's fastening to the wood.

The only thing stronger for your application than a piano hinge is a bigger one, or perhaps entry passage door hinges, but they'd have to be mounted to the sides of the frames. You could replace their wood screws with flat-head machine screws though the wood, and nuts/washers. Not pretty, but stout as heck.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Andy D Jones]

Andy, that's true...if I had space the clamp holders just a little wider, I could do second set down a little bit with things facing in the opposite direction as you note. While I'm not about to change these now, I'd consider that for a future shop for sure. Changing my CNC files to accommodate would be pretty darn easy. (there are grooves in the back plate to provide stronger joints between the clamp supports and the back plates...glue in the groove/dado and then screws from behind in countersunk holes. Very solid)

Jim, you didn't mount those brackets on French cleats?! :D

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Alan Lightstone]

I'm right there with you on the last point!

If I understand your rack design, each rack is hinged on the rack behind it? That creates a lot of force on the rear-most hinge, and it's fastening to the wood.

The only thing stronger for your application than a piano hinge is a bigger one, or perhaps entry passage door hinges, but they'd have to be mounted to the sides of the frames. You could replace their wood screws with flat-head machine screws though the wood, and nuts/washers. Not pretty, but stout as heck.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

The right side where the hinges will be is really hidden from view. So I can use anything there, even door hinges.

I'm going to have one less swinging door, so the heaviest frame, with the parallel clamps on it, is going to be fixed to the wall, so much less strain on the new version than my present one.

My last piano hinges seemed so flimsy. I could have just purchased cheap ones, plus they had to fit on a narrow frame. And be hidden. I could use far sturdier piano hinges this time, and screw them to the outside of the frame/doors, instead of the inside. In that case, they could be far wider/stronger, I suppose.

But would something like door hinges be sturdier still? Or gate hinges?

Which would resist sagging the best?

[Jim Becker]

Jim, you didn't mount those brackets on French cleats?! :D

-- Andy - Arlington TX
That's true...in this shop I did not. Next shop, should there ever be one, will be pretty much based on French cleats for anything that hangs on the walls. It's easy, relatively inexpensive and extraordinarily flexible. :)

[Thomas McCurnin]

For my clamp rack, I simply drew it out on a double stack of 3/4 plywood and jig sawed the fingers. It was a clamp rack and honestly if one finger is off by an eighth it was no big deal. That said, it was accurate and looks great and I can fit 3 or 4 bar clamps per set of fingers

[Alan Lightstone]

Well, I finally finished the replacement rack. It was way too much work, and is overkill, and frankly a solution like what Brian posted would have been much quicker, cheaper, and easier.

But in any case, here is the finished product:
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One bit on information I did discover. Even the much larger, beefed up piano hinges do sag, so I had to put some supports under the rack to help slide it in place when closing. Lesson learned.

Now I need to buy some more clamps.

[mike stenson]

Quicker, cheaper, and easier.. sure.. but I like yours. It looks great :)

[Frederick Skelly]

I assume he's hanging small clamps in that fixture. I too have done the 'drill a hole and cut to it' method. I have done this on the bandsaw and the tablesaw depending on the depth required.

+1. I drill the holes and then cut on the bandsaw using miter gauge. Longer parts go to the tablesaw if necessary.

[Mark e Kessler]

Brackets and French cleats = less space + adjustability + fast and easy to make. Also with the grain running the direction you show I would imagine it would be possible for the “Tabs” to snap off with heavier clamps and/or heavy use, prolly not an issue for hobby use though.

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[Alan Lightstone]

Brackets and French cleats = less space + adjustability + fast and easy to make. Also with the grain running the direction you show I would imagine it would be possible for the “Tabs” to snap off with heavier clamps and/or heavy use, prolly not an issue for hobby use though.

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Yours is certainly very space efficient, no doubt.

I never had an issue with the tabs snapping off. There are diagonal wood blocks beneath them that provide extra support. They seem to be solid as a rock.

[Jim Becker]

Alan, yea that was a lot of work, but it turned out beautifully and it certainly is a very compact solution. Bravo!