Homemade track versus buying a track saw

[Eric Arnsdorff]

I’m starting a large vanity and will be cutting a number of sheets of pre-finished plywood down for the interior.
I’m okay with buying a track saw but I’m happy with my circular saw and I can easily and cheaply make a track for my circular saw to cut the panels square and fine tune (if needed) on my table saw.
I’m just trying to understand what advantage buying a track saw would be. The saws that go with them appear to be lower powered saws (I’m sure they’re adequate for the purpose).

I’m interested in those with experience either way what if any advantage the track saw has.

[Jim Dwight]

Eric,

My track saw is a DeWalt, my "good" circular saw is a Milwaukee (although my battery powered Skil is pretty nice too). I think the Milwaukee draws a couple more amps maximum than the DeWalt but the only time I found the DeWalt short on power was a deep rip with the stock 48 tooth blade. A ripping blade solved the issue entirely. But track saw amp ratings vary from about 9 amps to 12, which is what my DeWalt is rated. The maximum depth of cut is also less at 2 inches for my DeWalt. I think the motor is adequate to do that in hardwood but only with a ripping blade. I don't think I've used it in hardwood over 1 inch thick. But if you think you may need circular saw like power, you may want to stay away from the 9 amp saws (I think both the smaller Festool and the Wen are about 9 amps).

I used a circular saw with a home made guide to make break down cuts on sheet goods for literally decades. Sometimes my saw wandered away from the guide messing up the "waste" side of the material. That doesn't happen with a track saw because the saw is trapped, it must follow the rib of the track unless you lift it off the track. A track saw is not nearly as dependant on the skill of the operator, it cuts where the track is put. I think that is it's main advantage.

The other advantages are due to the way you can buy or make jigs for the track positioning. Parallel guides attach to the track so you can make repeated cuts without measuring. I use rail dogs in an outfeed/assembly table with holes to make extremely accurate crosscuts up to about 30 inches. I have a movable stop so I can also make duplicate pieces. Inherent in this usage is another advantage. Track saw cuts are smooth like a table saw and as accurate as a table saw so there is no need for finishing the cut there. I'm sitting in front of a 7 foot long base cabinet I made almost totally with cuts using my DeWalt track saw. Even the shallow dados were made with the track guiding a router. The deeper rabbets were made with repeated cuts of the track saw. I deliberately did not use my PCS except to rip strips of solid wood to cover the plywood edges. I did use the PCS to make the doors but I made the drawers using the track saw.

I think the advantages boil down to accuracy and consistency. But I would also caution you that to get the most out of a track saw requires some different ways of working that I was used to. A very simple think I learned early is the width of my pencil lines was inhibiting my accuracy. I needed to switch to a 0.5mm pencil and be careful to use a square to draw a straight line. Even better is to use a jig to position the track so you can use a stop. That sort of thing. But even if you just cut to pencil marks you can make finished pieces. And if you choose to just break down the material you will do it quicker with less waste and less stress.

[jamil mehdi]

At the most basic level, there is no difference; it's a saw riding on a straight edge. Using a shopmade fence, you can make every cut a track saw can make. With that said, there are some differences that may or may not matter to you.

-A track saw is typically faster to set up a cut, if for no other reason than clamping isn't always necessary.

-The tracks are (usually) perfectly straight. Shop made fences are only as good as the person who made it.

-The plunge cut allows the saw to sit on a flat surface when not in use, whether it's resting on the track or sitting on a bench, it's inherently more stable in its resting state. It's also somewhat safer in that the blade is never exposed unless it's being used.

-A riving knife is nice to have when straight-lining hardwood

-Plunging allows you to start your cut in the middle of a workpiece without being off the track. A circular saw starts off with its butt in the air for such a cut.

-The tracks can be infinitely connected to make longer tracks. Shop made fences are usually a single length, so you need to make one for ripping sheets and another for cross cutting.

-Running miters are easier with a Makita track saw because the base plate locks into the track

Those are the differences that immediately come to mind. I'm sure there are others.

I will also add that Tenryu is now making track saw blades. I put one on my Makita (48T) and I no longer feel like it's under-powered. It used to bog down cutting through 4/4 white oak, now it glides through like a 12T ripping blade, but still leaves a perfect edge. Highly recommended.

[Jim Becker]

Adding to the previous list, dedicated track saws have the saw indexed to the track so you can't move it laterally during the cut. A home-made solution normally is just a guide that will allow you to come off the line if you are not very careful.

[Robert Engel]

Homemade guides can work, the not ones the the base simply butts up to, not as well. As Jim mentioned it really has to capture the base with slot and runner or similar.

There are many DIY track saw versions that employ a way to capture the base.

Other than sheet goods, a track saw excels at ripping a straight edge in a board.

[Ken Kortge]

All I'll add is that track saws with an anti chipout feature provide a much cleaner cut edge than that of a typical circular saw.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

I’m starting a large vanity and will be cutting a number of sheets of pre-finished plywood down for the interior.
I’m okay with buying a track saw but I’m happy with my circular saw and I can easily and cheaply make a track for my circular saw to cut the panels square and fine tune (if needed) on my table saw.
I’m just trying to understand what advantage buying a track saw would be. The saws that go with them appear to be lower powered saws (I’m sure they’re adequate for the purpose).

I’m interested in those with experience either way what if any advantage the track saw has.

I have a heavy duty 2-inch L-shaped aluminum bar I use to guide my power saw. I have that guide for 30 years and it is yet plenty straight despite some abuse. I use it to saw panels as it is more convenient that my table saw. I use a couple of 2-in f-clamps to maintain it at place. It demand I offset the guide accordingly but I do not see it as an important inconvenience as I do not use it sufficiently to justify to make a dedicated guide to avoid a such offset. I used it with my previous Bosch and DeWalt power saws and currently I use it with my Makita one. Works great.

The reason usually dedicated track saws are less powerful is their application: to cut panels, usually 3/4 inch thick, a few times slightly bigger than 1 inch. They do not require the same power than a regular power saw designed primary to work with 2-by-something (and sometimes thicker) wood.

Even today track saws are common at an affordable price even where I live, I have no intention to go off from the way I had used to cut panels for all those years. Its higher convenience did not pay for me its demand of space to store as well price. Thanks, not for me at my current frequency of use.

[Bill Dufour]

Osvaldo I had the same offset problem with my guide rail. I took a piece of wood and ripped it to the exact offset, about 7cm for my saw, I made two pieces of wood. I lay them on the line then butt the guide to the wood which automatically sets the offset for me before I clamp it down. I admit I have forgotten and used the wood for other jobs and have had to make new ones from time to time. Thinner is better for visibility.
Bil lD.

[Bill Dufour]

Should be easy enough to make a saw sled with runners on the bottom to straddle the guide rail. You lose a little bit of cutting depth. Basically a double runner tablesaw sled used upside down. I do not think they make a commercial track saw for a router. My idea could easily guide a router or jig saw.
For track saw users how critical is alignment of the blade to the rail? tablesaws get kickback and burning real easy if it is off.
Bill D

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Actually I use rectangular wood blocks to setup the rail. One of their dimensions is the distance between the blade and the left side of the saw base plate and the other dimension is the same from right side. Just to speedup the guide setup. Works fine.


Osvaldo I had the same offset problem with my guide rail. I took a piece of wood and ripped it to the exact offset, about 7cm for my saw, I made two pieces of wood. I lay them on the line then butt the guide to the wood which automatically sets the offset for me before I clamp it down. I admit I have forgotten and used the wood for other jobs and have had to make new ones from time to time. Thinner is better for visibility.
Bil lD.

[johnny means]

Before I'd ever heard of a tracksaw, I used a shop built masonite track and a cheap circular saw. I'd put my results with that setup up against my Festool saws any day. The only thing I really gained was a bit of convenience. Mind you, I had a Format saw to make the track. I wouldn't choose buying a tracksaw if my tool collection was wanting in other areas. $600 in clamps or finishing equipment has yielded me a greater ROI than that tracksaw ever could.

[Jim Matthews]

Adding to the previous list, dedicated track saws have the saw indexed to the track so you can't move it laterally during the cut. A home-made solution normally is just a guide that will allow you to come off the line if you are not very careful.

+1 this is why I stuck with mine.

The Eurekazone version is also modular, so I need 52" of shelf space but have 8 feet of capacity.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I have used both. Now that I have my Dewalt track saw, I am generally just use that unless I need a specialized track (for example, when I was cutting counter tops and I needed to navigate the large lip in the back).

The things that you get with a dedicated track saw:



Better dust collection off the saw
Track usually has better grip between the track and the wood
Replaceable rubber bit for when you change your blade and you need to re-establish where the line will be cut


Stuff like that.

[Ken Kortge]

I wouldn't choose buying a tracksaw if my tool collection was wanting in other areas. $600 in clamps or finishing equipment has yielded me a greater ROI than that tracksaw ever could.

If you already have a decent circular saw, the Eurekazone.com system can get you a 64" track with a conversion base, two anti-chip edges, and two clamps for $155 (plus shipping).

You can get a similar package with both 64" and 54" tracks, plus connectors, for $273 (plus shipping).

As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, the tracks are unique in that their dovetail-like channels are self-aligning (auto-straightening) when using the connectors.

This YouTube video gives an overview of the tracks https://youtu.be/-i3df2FfDgw

[Ken Kortge]

For track saw users how critical is alignment of the blade to the rail? tablesaws get kickback and burning real easy if it is off.
Bill D

I can only speak for the Eurekazone.com track system that I use. The so-called Smart Base is attached to the bottom of a circular saw by pressing the saw blade against a row of plastic blades, and then those plastic blades are snapped off and discarded. This method ensures perfect alignment between the blade and the base. I have three different saws attached to Smart Bases (Hitachi, Bosch, & Makita), and have used the tracks for well over 10 years, and I've never had a blade go out of alignment.

Using the saw on the track ensures that the saw - and the blade - travel straight with no risk of kickback.

When using the saw off track, an insert with a fin (think of a riving knife) is slide into the bottom of the Smart Base. This provides somewhat stunning ability to prevent kickback. This is well illustrated at about 1:55 in the attached YouTube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJOUw-tZEDQ

[Ken Kortge]

The Eurekazone version is also modular, so I need 52" of shelf space but have 8 feet of capacity.

I prefer using the 64" track for cutting half sheets, so I prefer a 64" + 52" combo. It provides a nicer "launch pad" for the saw.

I unsuccessfully searched online for a picture of the 8 foot cut length of the one-layer track brands (Festool, ...). I assume it has quite a bit of flex. I wondered how fragile it is.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

As always - there is a lot of good advice from all of you!

@Ken Kortge - I like the looks of that Eurekazone EZSmart track and saw base. It looks like a bit better version of the Kreg and similar to the TrueTrac but the base seems to have more features. I've looked at the Kreg setup and the saw base doesn't look like a good design but the idea of mounting it to your existing saw is nice.

[roger wiegand]

I've made and used a couple different versions of home made track saws over the decades. They shared the properties of being inconvenient to set up and use and produced results no better than clamping a board as a guide to the piece to be cut.

Unlike others here, I found the transition to a "real" track saw to be transformative to my process in the shop. (In my case the Festool). Being able to simply lay the track exactly on the line I want to cut, having it not move, and getting an excellent finish cut the first time made sheet goods really useable again for me.

Could I have engineered and built those propertied into one of my home made tracks? Perhaps, though almost certainly not with the great dust collection. However, I'd rather be doing woodworking than designing and refining saws. For me the $600 (or whatever it was, I've long forgotten) was one of the better investments I've ever made; I resisted for a long time, thinking it was silly and I already had something that worked, but I was wrong and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

[Jay Kepley]

I have a Makita corded track saw and three of its tracks (36", 55", and the long track). I use my track saw frequently. I believe it's a great investment. It's very accurate. The Makita blade is exceptional. I just replaced mine after a couple of years. I don't believe the cost of the blade warrants a sharpening charge (which makes the blade disposable). The tracks are aluminum; therefore, they are lightweight. They are straight, and they don't warp. We all face the "make or buy" decision on stuff for the shop. I'm glad I invested in the tracks.

[Roger Feeley]

One thing you might want to be aware of is that you can get saws with the motor on the left or right side of the blade. If I recall correctly, most of these saws have the motor on the left side. This works great for a right hander cutting a 2x4. You hold the board with your left hand and the saw with your right. The motor on the left means that the saw doesn't want to tip to the right as you finish the cut. If you are left handed, it gets awkward unless you buy a saw with the motor on the right.

When I made my home brew guides, I found that it all worked out better with a saw with the motor on the right.

So what's important here is that you know that you can choose which side the motor is on.

[Jim Dwight]

I don't consider my DeWalt track fragile but I treat them like the fairly expensive tool they are. I think you'd have to mis handle them fairly severely to cause damage. I store them on edge on my garage door, that is their strong direction. Laid flat they could be deflected or even bent if you applied significant weight with the track unsupported. But used even close to correctly, no issue. My verdict is sturdy enough. The more typical one sided tracks are probably more resistant of loading while flat due to two rib like projections.

[Bill Space]

I have a relatively cheep Grizzly track saw. I bought it on sale to try a track saw out. It is really nice being able to put the track on the mark and make the cut without having to worry about blade offset with a guide using a standard circular saw.

That being said, the track saw is powered by AC power, and requires an extension cord. It is relatively heavy and bulky compared to my Dewalt 20 volt max circular saw. For one or two cuts, I actually prefer just using a simple guide with the battery saw. Actually quicker, but I suppose not as accurate as the tracksaw would be, but not bad either...

[Mike Henderson]

I have the Festool track saw and it is ACCURATE. I used to rip my sheet goods close and then finish on my cabinet saw. With the track saw I cut exactly where I want to - and the cut is clean.

Mike

[Larry Frank]

I have had several different ones over many years. I started with a straight piece of plywood, then an aluminum straight edge and finally my Festool track saw. Yes, it is not cheap but a pleasure to use. It is very accurate and gives clean cuts.

[Curt Harms]

Adding to the previous list, dedicated track saws have the saw indexed to the track so you can't move it laterally during the cut. A home-made solution normally is just a guide that will allow you to come off the line if you are not very careful.

This is why I made my saw guide to use with a P-C 314 trim saw (Good luck finding a new one of those!) Unlike 'sidewinder' circular saw bases that are wider than they are long, The 314 base is quite a bit longer than it is wide. To illustrate the difference cut a 4" X 8" piece of scrap then retract the blade of a table saw. Put the 4" side of the piece against the fence and push it. Then put the 8" side against the fence and push it. Which is easier to keep tight against the fence? The 8" side of course. I find it quite easy to keep the P-C trim saw base against a fence. Of course having the blade parallel to the base is critical where there's not a rib to force the saw to track straight. If I made a lot of cuts using a guided saw I might spring for a track saw. If I make a dozen cuts using a saw board (one name for it) per year it's a lot.

[Daniel O'Neill]

I have been looking at this setup doing some dadoes for a closet organizer and to maybe later use it for a track saw. The straight edge has a t track on both sides but would still be "butt in the air" for the plunge cuts. I didn't buy it at this time because my sander isn't working right and I might need to buy one of those.

Bora Straight Edge (https://www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/clamps-vises/bora-reg-100-wtx-clamp-edge-guide/545100/p-1100429375515167.htm)
Bora Circ saw plate (https://www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/clamps-vises/bora-reg-wtx-saw-plate/544006/p-12148367795368284.htm)
Bora Router Plate (https://www.menards.com/main/tools/power-tools/routers/bora-reg-wtx-router-guide-accessory/542005/p-1497421474390.htm)

[Eric Arnsdorff]

Thanks to all for the great feedback.
The Eurekazone looks like a really good choice. I can't make out about the quality of it since it doesn't seem to have been readily accepted by woodworkers. But it sure looks like a good option.

The one thing I've noticed looking at the cost of these is that in this category Festool doesn't actually appear to be that much more than other options. It actually is cheaper than some of the ones I've looked up. Maybe I'm not comparing the right items as this is quite unusual.

That being said - I am considering buying one of the Festools. I was quite shocked after all these years of not having an impact driver while being amazed at the offerings and popularity while I thought my drill did all it did. I bought an impact driver and it is one of my favorite tools - granted it is side by side with my drill but definitely the best tool for driving screws and even some drilling. I'm getting the impression a track saw will be same type tool addition. Maybe not a replacement for my table saw or circular saw but a welcomed addition. Crossing my fingers!

I'm now trying to decide which Festool - I'd love any advice - or if anyone has another brand they'd like to boast about.

[Jim Becker]

I'm now trying to decide which Festool - I'd love any advice -

Keep in mind that in recent years, Festool added some track saws that are designed specifically for the construction trade including "captive" tracks. Most of us who use track saws primarily for woodworking purposes opt for the more traditional track saw which is aimed at precision cuts in sheet goods and other materials. So choose the format of track saw that best fits your intended use. While there certainly is crossover, these two types of saw are optimized for for two different kinds of work "in general". There are also two sizes of track saw in the "woodworking" variant. The smaller/lighter one is what most folks use since its depth of cut it more than sufficient for sheet goods and most solid stock. Someone wanting to cut thicker slabs more frequently will want the larger saw.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

Thanks Jim! Large sheet plywood cutting and then 3/4"-1" hardwood glued up panels would be the second use. I think this falls into the lighter "woodworker" versions.

My other dilemma is if I would buy a cordless version. It looks like Festool and Makita both have a strong option for cordless track saws. My battery platform that I'm very happy with is Ryobi. Obviously, this isn't an option for track saws and Ryobi would likely never offer the quality I'd look for in a track saw. I'm good with picking another battery platform.

Are the cordless track saws as good as the corded versions for the lighter "woodworker" versions?

[roger wiegand]

One hint, plan on buying at least one extra blade with the Festool. The plywood blade it comes with is great (extraordinarily clean cut) for ply, but it bogs down horribly in thicker or more dense stock (eg SPF 2x lumber, or even 4/4 maple). A blade with a lower tooth count fixes that instantly.

[joe webb]

Thanks for this great thread.

I don't plan to get a track saw as I don't use frequently enough to justify the cost and also not having much storage space in my garage.

I bought this aluminum straight edge (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Swanson-Tool-Company-Straight-Edges-8-33-ft-Metal-Ruler/1006469) (2 pieces of 50" that can be joined) and it's been fine for me. I cut slowly and it rarely wandered of the guide.
But I always get nervous when making a long 8ft cut. I am thinking of making a sled to ride on the straight edge. It would boost my confidence when making long cuts and cutting faster might reduce the burn marks.

Thoughts? Is a sled an upgrade?

[Mike Kees]

Joe,a sled on a track is essentially .....a track saw. Yes it would work a bit better and move your set up one step closer to a track saw. I think it could be a good workable solution for not a lot of money.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

I did determine that Festool is indeed a bit higher cost than most of the other offerings (except Mafell but as a hobby and not a Trump descendant - not political but I'd be ok if he left me a billion or so). When I put the costs together for the cordless saw with batteries and charger then added the tracks I realized that Festool hasn't missed a chance to be a price leader (almost). The Festool does win the preferred choice.
However, one of the items that is deciding this for me isn't the cost of Festool but if I'm going to utilize another battery platform then I'd also like a solid offering for other cordless tools. Makita has quite a cordless offering. Festool seems to not have a lot of cordless relative to other tool manufacturers.

What I'd really like is a base that I could solidly mount to my choice of a cordless circular saw ( this seems to be a miss with the manufacturer's that they don't offer an alternate base that would mount to the typical tracks).

So I'm considering Makita. However, it will still cost around $700-$800 to buy a couple of tracks for 4' and 8' cut lengths. This really does seem like a lot to get a saw that has less depth and power than my current circular saw (as well as my often frowned upon Ryobi cordless).

[Jim Becker]

So I have to ask...what's driving the desire for cordless/battery for your track saw purchase? Will you be using it frequently in places where it would be inconvenient to use a corded saw? The reason I ask is that cordless/battery power clearly brings an even more premium price to the table and if it's not a workflow requirement, perhaps something with a tail is the better choice.

BTW, the Festool and Makita tracks are pretty much identical. I have a Festool saw and one of my tracks is a Makita because it was the "right size at the right price" when I bought it.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

It appears the reviews claim the cordless versions of the Makita and Festool are as good as the corded tools (this is just from internet searches/reviews - I don't know first hand).

My thought on why the cordless is if I'm going to pay $600-$1000 for a complete system then I may as well get the extra convenience of a cordless unit as well. It appears to cost ~$100 more for the Makita. The Festool looks to be ~$200 more (TSC model).

I can't justify cost of a cordless unit. I'm a hobbyist woodworker. Heck I can't really justify the cost of a lot of my tools. My only justification is I like it and in the end it is cheaper than buying furniture/cabinets or paying others for various home improvements, etc.

[Jim Becker]

I was just curious and absolutely, in the end, the consideration isn't always financial...it's "what I want". Which is a very valid reason!

[Eric Arnsdorff]

As luck would have it we’re putting in new flooring upstairs and will likely be doing more downstairs and the main level in months to come.
My wife brought up getting a smaller cordless miter saw (I have the 12” Bosch glider and love it but it’s huge). I explained to her how a cordless track saw would be perfect with good dust collection and portability. I’m hoping using it as a miter saw for wood flooring will work as good as I told her. But she’s now all about getting it!

Another “tool want” justified!!

Somebody please back me up and tell me it will work great for a miter saw?!?!

[Zac wingert]

Just buy the thing already. I will say it’s a tool I want and can’t quite afford yet, but wish I could and probably will one day. You are pretty much there. You know you’re gonna buy it, so just do it. No need justification on the internet. Track saws are no longer gimmicks. They are a worthwhile tool. And with there are many offerings now. Just buy the brand you are ok with. I can’t imagine the festool is hundreds of dollars better than the dewalt or makita. But I bet those middle ones are much better than buying the bargain bin ones. There. Done, easy.

[Jim Becker]

If you do opr to use it as an alternative to a miter/chop saw, be sure you get a short track (Makita has one) and have a table support and fence setup so you can index the track and flooring to be perpendicular without constantly measuring. I've used my Festool track saw with the MFT table for home improvement stuff like this in lieu of my miter saw a number of times. (My miter saw is relegated to the upstairs lumber storage area of my shop...I don't use it for projects most of the time)

[mike stenson]

Having a hose for dust collection pretty much negates the flexibility of a cordless tool. ie, it's still 'corded'.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

Thanks Jim! I looked up some videos of people using the track saw to make cross cuts and I think that's a great portable solution. A simple easy to make jig and it should work perfect.

Very true Zac! I am purchasing it today/tomorrow (if I can get it in town) or ordering it if not.

Mike the dust collector tether does take a little away from "cordless". However, I have a battery powered vacuum that works well and I think it does offer a terrific "cordless" solution for doing the projects away from my shop. Also, having it connected to my dust collector while in my shop does add a "cord" or hose as it is but still is one less tether to deal with. So it's worth the cordless solution to me. Additionally, when I use it outside it won't have any tethers. Further - I saw Festool's bag option seems to work well.

I hope all this is true and I'm now completely on the opposite end of a DIY/Homemade solution. Even though that solution does appear to be a valid and semi-efficient choice as well.

Thanks for all the help. I always over analyze these purchases but it's my hobby and I enjoy purchasing new tools as well as using them. The thing I hate the worst is buying or making something to find out it was the wrong thing. That's part of learning but some research and good advice helps avoid this.