Table Saw Problems - Bearing?

[Micah Puscheck]

Hello all!

Been lurking around for a while trying to soak up information on my first projects and finally joined up. Unfortunately, I'm making my introduction with a problem. I've been working on building a dining room table out of 8/4 stock and noticed that my table saw cuts were not square. Specifically, the stock and the cutoff were both slightly wider at the top than they were the bottom (typically around 2/100" or so). I could rip several strips of wood and they would all have the same issue. I also noticed that when I went to dry fit making the panel that the ends would join tightly but there would be a gap (another 1/100" or more, big enough to just see daylight through) towards the middle of the lengths.

I should note that I purchased it from a late in-law, and it's a low level Craftsman 137.248880.

I've done the following:

Adjust fence to be parallel with the saw - good thing to do, but didn't help my issue
Redoing the fence face with some plywood - wanted to make sure there weren't some irregularities from the actual fence. Several iterations made no difference in the outcome.
Used multiple new blades including a full kerf Freud Glue Line Rip Blade
Used square and digital indictor to confirm the blade is 90 to the table
Made cuts in two passes as 8/4 hard maple is pretty tough - No change and have had the same issue with 8/4 cherry and walnut.
Took the whole saw and motor apart and gave it a good cleaning
Replaced a frozen bearing at the furthest away from the arbor - Good to do, but this just fit into the plastic housing of the motor and had no difference on the outcome.
Replaced all the other bearings in the motor


The last piece is where I am currently. I realized that when the blade was on, there was a tiny (but perceptible) amount of wiggle coming from the arbor. To make a long story short, I've attached pictures showing the arbor, shaft, and housing for that piece. The bearing fits tightly on the shaft and the outside appears to be a slip fit into the housing. I used retaining compound on the housing fit (probably will regret that later...) to ensure that it was secure and remove a variable.

I now believe that the bearing itself has enough "play" between the inner and outer pieces that the arbor (and thus, the blade) is able to slightly deflect. I've replaced it with a new NTN bearing, but the new SKF bearing sitting next to me seems to have some wiggle in the same way. What I'm wondering is if it is just an economy table saw to be designed this way that or is there anything else that might help fix this issue?

[Frank Pratt]

To start off, here is the process to calibrate the blade/table/fence:
- Get the blade parallel with the miter slot. With the blade fully raised, measure from the same point on the blade at both the front & back positions. This eliminates possible deviation in the blade
- Then adjust the fence so it is parallel to the miter slot. Some like to have a little more clearance at the back of the blade, but it shouldn't be more than just a few thousandths.

Even with all that done and the new bearings, you may just be asking too much of that saw. I suspect, as you do, that the arbor having some play is the problem & that may just be a function of the poor engineering/manufacturing of that saw. Job site saws are not precision machines & the primary reason for having one is portability. You will undoubtedly get better results my dumping that saw & getting a contractor or cabinet saw. If budget is tight, you should be able to get a good used contractor saw for $300 or less.

[Andrew Hughes]

I think your asking too much from that saw.
Just the motor assembly hanging off that bracket thing looks flimsy. Job site saws that are lite built have very soft fences that move easily with any pressure. I’m not familiar with that particular craftsman saw but it could still be useful for cutting. If you want to make tight joints a jointer is a better choice.

[Micah Puscheck]

To start off, here is the process to calibrate the blade/table/fence:
- Get the blade parallel with the miter slot. With the blade fully raised, measure from the same point on the blade at both the front & back positions. This eliminates possible deviation in the blade
- Then adjust the fence so it is parallel to the miter slot. Some like to have a little more clearance at the back of the blade, but it shouldn't be more than just a few thousandths.

Even with all that done and the new bearings, you may just be asking too much of that saw. I suspect, as you do, that the arbor having some play is the problem & that may just be a function of the poor engineering/manufacturing of that saw. Job site saws are not precision machines & the primary reason for having one is portability. You will undoubtedly get better results my dumping that saw & getting a contractor or cabinet saw. If budget is tight, you should be able to get a good used contractor saw for $300 or less.

I had a feeling this was likely the answer. It's still a newish hobby for me, so I try to learn what's important before I spend the money.

FWIW, I don't even use the miter slots because they are pretty terrible and not the standard size. I used my calipers directly from the raised blade to the fence. I thought I might have been removing a variable, but maybe that was incorrect.

[Micah Puscheck]

I think your asking too much from that saw.
Just the motor assembly hanging off that bracket thing looks flimsy. Job site saws that are lite built have very soft fences that move easily with any pressure. I’m not familiar with that particular craftsman saw but it could still be useful for cutting. If you want to make tight joints a jointer is a better choice.

As you pointed out, it doesn't take too much pressure (but certainly more than the bearing) to get the whole motor assembly to wiggle either. Probably more than would normally be applied with a cut, but definitely not a great sign.

Just picked up a used 8" jointer a few days ago with my dad. Was mainly motivated by what a pain the table saw issues had become after literally over a month of troubleshooting on and off.

[Frank Pratt]

Just picked up a used 8" jointer a few days ago with my dad. Was mainly motivated by what a pain the table saw issues had become after literally over a month of troubleshooting on and off.

Nice. I'd love to have an 8" jointer. What kind?

[andy bessette]

...Just picked up a used 8" jointer...

Would have been better to put the money towards a decent saw.

[Micah Puscheck]

Nice. I'd love to have an 8" jointer. What kind?

Geetech. Pretty good shape too! Not a professional level tool, but hopefully a good starter.


Would have been better to put the money towards a decent saw.

I would agree, but won't be an either/or. I'm looking for a new to me saw now.

I also didn't include this in my original post, but my dad just purchased a Norwood LM29v2, so we'll put the jointer to good use. Prolly need a good bit bigger to be frank, but it's a start.

[Micah Puscheck]

Fun update!

After a three month backorder, just received my new 1023RL yesterday. Really excited to have confidence in my table saw moving forward!

Pictured below was my thousandth attempt at trying to diagnose my problems and using a ridiculous fence (prior to most of this thread's discussion). There was a lot of critical thinking and eventually frustration that went into that saw, but it did at least get me started.

[Mike Kees]

Now your talkin ! That is a great upgrade. Nice to see someone go straight to a cabinet saw.

[Micah Puscheck]

Now your talkin ! That is a great upgrade. Nice to see someone go straight to a cabinet saw.

It took me several months of slowly upselling myself before I pulled the trigger on the cabinet. Probably helped that you can hardly find anything right now, so you have lots of time to think!

I think the fence and rails weigh about as much as the entire craftsman.