Biesemeyer Fence any need for the wood side fence faces

[Bill Dufour]

I bought a used Biesemeyer fence that one fence face wood is cracked and broken out of line by 3/8" or more. It is fairly involved to remove the formica cover, then unscrew the wood. then make a new piece of wood and install the formica over that. Does it really need a wood face. The old saw fences were just metal. Or some had wood bolted to th face with a few countersunk bolt head showing. Why is it such a big deal to hide the screw? is it just cosmetic? I never noticed wood grabbing in the bolt holes on my old jet lock fence with a 1x4 face.
I am thinking of using a piece of laminate flooring and just leave the laminate exposed with a few screws showing. It sounds like each face is separately attached so I will not have to replace both faces at the same time.
Bil lD

[Dan Bundy]

Someone with more knowledge can correct me, but I would think the wood faces are more important than whether or not they are laminated. The laminate will just help pieces slide by more easily. The wood is probably just a bit of protection for when you're close to the blade. The thickness of the wood pieces may also have something to do with accuracy of a scale, if the Bies has one.

[John Jardin]

Bill,
I have replaced the wood face and laminate on a Biesemeyer fence and you are right - it's an extensive project.
Your solution sound fine and will work just as well.

[Matt Day]

It’s not that big of a deal to replace the fence and re-laminate, I’ve done 3-4 fences, but laminating isn’t necessary. I just use 3/4” mdf countersunk screws exposed in all their glory.

Having a wood (sheet good, not hardwood) face allows for some shimming if necessary and is much easier on your blade if you nick it.

That being said, some extruded aluminum Instead of wood is a nice touch. I’ve been meaning to do it for years but it’s not a high priority.

[Rob Sack]

On my Biesemeyer fence, after about 20 years, the laminate was pretty worn. Using a heat gun, I removed the laminate, exposing the screws and removed the original plywood piece. I replaced this with a waxed piece of hard maple sanded down to 400 grit and left the countersunk machine screws exposed. For the past 10 years, this has worked just as well as the original; the exposed screws have not created any issues, and replacing it again, if I ever have to, will be a simpler process.

[Travis Conner]

I think the wood under the laminate is mdf. Assuming I'm using the right word, it's that cheap stuff that swells up twice it's size if it gets wet.

[mike stenson]

Mine was apple ply.. but I haven't had a Biesemeyer since the 20th century. This shouldn't be a terribly difficult task, a couple/few hours. The wood is easier to flatten/make square than the metal tube ever will be. You can use an extrusion.. but that's got the same caveats. Either way, no.. the screws being exposed is not a big deal.

[Dick Mahany]

It’s not that big of a deal to replace the fence and re-laminate, I’ve done 3-4 fences, but laminating isn’t necessary. I just use 3/4” mdf countersunk screws exposed in all their glory.

Having a wood (sheet good, not hardwood) face allows for some shimming if necessary and is much easier on your blade if you nick it.

That being said, some extruded aluminum Instead of wood is a nice touch. I’ve been meaning to do it for years but it’s not a high priority.

Extruded aluminum can make an excellent rip fence face. This is on a portable saw, however if I still had my old Unisaw, I would have done the same.

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[Jim Becker]

While the originals are hard to remove because of the fasteners being behind the laminate that's apparently applied after the faces are on the fence, the replacements can be made with laminate on the material...just countersink for the fasteners so that they are accessible to change the face in the future or to be able to be creative with alternative fence jogs.

[Bill Dufour]

The unifence is an Al extrusion. Peachtree ww makes a replacement of similar design for about $100. My Biesemeyer is plywood probably apple or birch.
Bill D

[Lee Schierer]

One reason for wood faces is they protect your blade if you happen to get the fence too close to the blade. I made a fence cover for my Beismeyer fence 440734440735
The cover allows me to attache several jigs to my fence and serves as a guide when I make raised panels on my TS.
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It also gives me a place to attach my Grip Tite magnetic feather boards when making rip cuts.
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[Matt Day]

The unifence is an Al extrusion. Peachtree ww makes a replacement of similar design for about $100. My Biesemeyer is plywood probably apple or birch.
Bill D

We’re talking Biesmeyer though.

[Matt Day]

The problem I’ve always has with relaminating the substrate is getting an even coat of contact cement. If it’s not totally even it will cause slight bumps or valleys in the fence gave that rear their head when a dial gauge is run up the miter slot.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Get a piece of 1/2" Baltic Birch. Make a replacement for existing face, and laminate one side. Drill and counter sink mounting holes, then mount to fence tube. Mount fence on saw and check over it's length and height to see if it needs any shimming. Now you can either add laminate to outer side, or not. I built several Biese clones, and my personal one is over twenty years old, with no laminate on outside faces. One day, maybe. Use spray adhesive to mount laminate. Just be sure to cover to prevent over spray. If you get over spray, use mineral spirits to clean up, not laquear thinner.