Riving knife : non through vs through cut ? (Grr ripper)

[Chris Myth]

Hello,

I’m still fairly new with table saws. I just bought a grr ripper but I realized that in order to be able to use it, I have to either remove the riving knife or set it on non-through cut. All because the table saw that I have (dewalt 7845) puts the riving knife 1 1/2 inch above the blade with through cuts.

The riving knife is the one security I don’t feel safe removing.

question is : What does it do to put the riving knife on non-through cuts when you’re cutting all the way ? Is it useless ? Dangerous ? Other than returning the grr ripper (or buy a new table saw), what would be my the best option ? Remove the riving knife or put it on non-through cuts ?

thank you,

Chris

[johnny means]

I keep all my riving knives just below the blade height. They still do their job and I can cut a quick groove when I need to.

[glenn bradley]

I do what Johnny does. A knife like his and mine can be used on non through cuts, it really doesn't need to be removed for any cuts. I would get one if the manufacturer offers one. I would make one if they do not.

P.s. The Grr-Ripper can be a polarizing topic. Folks love 'em or hate 'em. I love 'em and have a couple with lots of extra goodies.

[Jim Becker]

My riving knife is always set to a proverbial hair below blade height so there's zero need to consider it for bouncing between through and non-through cuts. It doesn't do anything more if it's higher than if it's set that way, too. The only reason it might nee to be higher is if an over blade guard has to attach to it. I don't use that feature so I leave it down.

[Chris Myth]

Thank you all ! I will then set my riving knife on non through cut (just below the blade height)

and thank you Jim for explaining the difference between through and non through, really appreciated. It was bothering me not knowing.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

My riving knife is always set to a proverbial hair below blade height so there's zero need to consider it for bouncing between through and non-through cuts. It doesn't do anything more if it's higher than if it's set that way, too. The only reason it might nee to be higher is if an over blade guard has to attach to it. I don't use that feature so I leave it down.

I went to the same way.

My table saw has a good blade protection combining riving knife, blade guard and anti kick back paws. The issue is all those stuff is combined in a monolithic part so for non through cuts I have to take off all. Although the manufacturer has a more clever option for this part allowing to remove only the guard and paws and maintain the knife, it is not available locally.

Recently I took a 2mm scrap aluminium plate and made myself a riving knife. I would prefer to use steel as it is sturdier but I didn't have a piece of steel available and steel is way more difficult to work with manual tools.

I made it as long as possible for the available space in order to increase its mechanical sturdiness. It was installed around 1 mm below cut deep.

It took just 20-30 minutes to make and adjust it. It works very well.

Now I maintain it permanently in the saw replacing the original stuff. Sometimes I miss the guard but the current convenience pays back. Problem is solved.

[Rod Sheridan]

I have two anti-kickback devices for my saw, a riving knife which is flush with the top of the blade, and a splitter which projects above the blade and mounts a blade guras.

When using the riving knife, I use an overarm guard.

Do not remove the guard from your saw.

If you can't do an operation with the guard in place there are 2 considerations;

1) You're using the wrong machine for the operation or;

2) You need a different guard.

I have 3 guards for my saw, stock splitter mounted guard, overarm guar, home made bridge guard.

Regards, Rod.