TS guard modification

[Jeff Horton]

I hate the guard that comes on my tablesaw. Always seems to be in the way but at the same time I realize it's a good thing. Especially the splitter. Like most folks I took mine off for something and it never found it's way back.

I have been thinking seriously about just removing the plexi-glass guard and keeping the splitter and the anti-kickback pawls and using that. Anyone done this?

If I don't do this I am going to make a wood insert with a splitter behind the blade I think.

[Rick Thom]

Just did this with mine yesterday. Asked local dealer about options and he said nice unit available for $2-300. I really like the type shown in a thread a few days ago but doesn't work for my saw.
I have a 'moderately priced' Delta Cabinet saw. The splitter asembly attaches at 2 points, 1 being to the tilt mechanism behind the table (rear splitter mounting bracket) and the other to the arbor flange (behind the blade). I removed the deflector and pauls from the oem splitter first.
I merely replaced the 5/16" hex bolt that secured (pinched) the splitter to the arbor flange with a 5/16" ratchet handle ($4.00). 1/4 turn of the ratchet handle and it loosens (or tightens) the splitter. It is well out of the way of any moving parts. When I want the splitter out of the way, pop off the throat insert, 1/4 turn of the ratchet handle and pivot the splitter back on the rear splitter mounting plate and out of the way. about 10 seconds work.
If you have an outfeed table, a slot would be required and it would need to accommodate laterally for bevels.
That's about it. Eventually I will make something smaller but this will do me for time being.
You may have an entirely different setup but may have an even easier improve solution to that.

[Jim Becker]

I have seen this done. The downside is that it's still a pain to remove and re-install in many cases...the primary reason I opted for a snap-in splitter from a 3rd party. Because I can take it off and put it back on very quickly, I have found that I actually leave it on the saw nearly 100% of the time. The only times it's off is for a non-through cuts, if I am doing a cut that it would interfere with the safety of the cut due to restriction of hold-downs and push blocks, when using a sled or miter guage or if I am using the table saw surface from something other than cutting.

[Jeff Horton]

I think mine would stay on 99% of the time. Of course I had not thought about it being in the way of none through cuts. I do a fair amount of dados. With and without dado blades. With the outfeed table it could be a pain to take off. Hummm

I do have a bunch of maple scraps. Maybe I will just make a zero clearance plate with a splitter and try that for now. At least it is easy to take off.

[Jim Becker]

Jeff a splitter in a shop-made zero-clearance insert is a good workable solution. It only has one down-side and that is it will not work for bevel cuts. If you don't generally do those, no big deal, but having a splitter that tilts with the blade (or a real riving knife when the saw supports it) means the added safety and stock support is available during bevels, too. You can always add a Delta, Biesemeyer or similar snap-in splitter later if that is something you want to do. (I use the Biesemeyer on my saw)

[Jeff Horton]

Thanks Jim. The nice thing about the splitter on a zero clearane insert is that I can just lift out the insert and replace it with another when doing an angle cut. Supper simple.

I was refered to this links on another forum. At first glance I REALLY like the idea. Will have to look a bit closer but I may do this.

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=powertools&file=articles_234.shtml

http://www.woodworking.com/article_archive.cfm?section=3&article=1508