High quality torque wrench & bits to rotate spiral cutter inserts?

[scott vroom]

It's time to rotate the carbide cutters on my jointer & planer spiral heads. I'm looking for a high quality torque wrench & quality bits for the job. Any recommendations?

Does 50 lbs torque sound right for the job?

Thanks

[John Lanciani]

I prefer a beam type wrench instead of a clicker for my Byrd head; https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03727A-4-Inch-Torque-Wrench/dp/B01FMXEWQC/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=inch+pound+torque+wrench&qid=1598879555&sr=8-10

And you're looking for 50 inch-pounds

[Grant Wilkinson]

John is right about the torque setting - anywhere between 45 and 50 inch pounds.

I prefer a click wrench as I can't see the beam wrench settings when I'm contorting myself to tighten the screws on our hold General planer.

As for bits, I've had good luck with porter cable and grk bits.

I find the key is to lubricate the screw threads. When I rotate the cutters, I completely remove all of them, clean the head of the planer and jointer, put anti-seize on the threads and put everything back together. So far, so good.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Yes check then setting, I think it may be INCH/LBS for those cutters.

I used to do a lot of motorcycle maintenance, so I have a range of Torque wrenches, with no one size fits all. This is especially true for the lower torque settings.

For such a low torque, if I am right about the INCH/LBS, I would probably go with a screwdriver type torque wrench.

I did little research a couple of years ago and bought this one
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B3NW5TG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71lkBMOnIOL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

My other torque wrenches, all Snap-On or CDI
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/i452/cedwards874/Bike%20Stuff/.highres/TorqueWrenches1_zps606acff4.jpg

[Alex Zeller]

We use Mountz torque drivers at work. 50 in/ibs isn't that much. Trying to use a beam stile wrench seams like it would be a pain vs a driver. They also have a 1/4" square drive on the top so you can put a ratchet or t-bar on them. But they aren't cheap. When you reach the set value they snap and slip (kind of like a cordless drill when set to screwdriver mode). When I have to rotate my inserts I'll buy one.
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[Orlando Gonzalez]

I have a Craftsman 20-250(?) in/lbs click wrench. I just rotated mine and consulted with Brian at Holbren, who sells the Byrd head I have, he recommended 45 in/lbs torque and to use a TP25 torx plus bit since the "teeth" of the bit are more rounded than the regular TP25. They're also rated for higher torque. Make sure that you let the screw pull the insert into the seat. If you butt up the insert against the back of the seat then when you tighten the screw it will lift up and cause issues like jointing steps into the wood especially when face jointing. I had to re-seat a whole bunch of them because of that. Just hold the insert forward with your fingers and the screw inserted then slowly tighten it and the insert will seat properly. I use a another TP25+ to do this and then tighten it with the torque wrench.

[Bill Dufour]

We use Mountz torque drivers at work. 50 in/ibs isn't that much. Trying to use a beam stile wrench seams like it would be a pain vs a driver. They also have a 1/4" square drive on the top so you can put a ratchet or t-bar on them. But they aren't cheap. When you reach the set value they snap and slip (kind of like a cordless drill when set to screwdriver mode). When I have to rotate my inserts I'll buy one.
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Also made by other companies. They also make pneumatic ones for factory use. Much better then a torque stick or clicker since it can not overdrive.
Bill D

[glenn bradley]

I use a small Craftsman. Inch-pound tools are smaller and lighter than their foot-pound cousins. The screwdriver format would become fatiguing to me after 60 or so inserts. The breaker-bar format has served me well but, this may depend on your hand strength and arthritis quotient ;-)

[Dan Friedrichs]

TorxPlus bit, 5Nm (~45in/lbs), $63, made in Germany:
https://www.wihatools.com/easy-torque-sf-handle-w-torxplus-ip25 (https://www.wihatools.com/easy-torque-sf-handle-w-torxplus-ip25)

[Tom M King]

You did ask for a high quality one:

https://shop.snapon.com/categories/Torque/629053

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I prefer a beam type wrench instead of a clicker for my Byrd head; https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03727A-4-Inch-Torque-Wrench/dp/B01FMXEWQC/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=inch+pound+torque+wrench&qid=1598879555&sr=8-10

And you're looking for 50 inch-pounds
Yes! Carbide is brittle and my Grizzly states inch-pounds!

[Robert Hazelwood]

John is right about the torque setting - anywhere between 45 and 50 inch pounds.

I prefer a click wrench as I can't see the beam wrench settings when I'm contorting myself to tighten the screws on our hold General planer.

As for bits, I've had good luck with porter cable and grk bits.

I find the key is to lubricate the screw threads. When I rotate the cutters, I completely remove all of them, clean the head of the planer and jointer, put anti-seize on the threads and put everything back together. So far, so good.

Not saying the anti-seize is a bad idea, but since this is a thread about torque wrenches I'll point out that it does affect the torque rating. If the torque spec is for clean dry threads, adding anti-seize means you need to reduce the torque applied to achieve the same screw tension (due to lower friction).

I've dealt with this in an automotive context, where a torque spec was near the yield point of the screw to begin with, and after adding anti-seize you'd risk snapping or permanently weakening the screw from over-torquing. There might be enough safety margin in this application that it doesn't matter much, but something to think about.

[Phil Gaudio]

FWIW: when I bought a Byrd head for my DJ-20 (still have the wrench, no longer own the jointer) I got the torque wrench from Byrd. Its just a Pittsburgh Tools wrench that was calibrated to the right setting by Byrd. They apparently thought that was adequate. It seemed to work just fine for the few inserts I changed.

[Mark Bolton]

Do yourself a favor and watch a couple of videos from https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCkSr3M8GXbS4txqPY7OMxQ

You dont need a torque wrench. Machining parts that exceed 30K-50K customer cost.

Dont overthink it. Loser is better.

[mike stenson]

Yes, engineers spec things willy nilly. We have no real reason to do so.

[Joe Jensen]

Yes, engineers spec things willy nilly. We have no real reason to do so.

Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha

[Joe Jensen]

I use a Wiha torque screwdriver. I don't want to mess around with Carbide pieces and 5,000 rpm

[John Lanciani]

TorxPlus bit, 5Nm (~45in/lbs), $63, made in Germany:
https://www.wihatools.com/easy-torque-sf-handle-w-torxplus-ip25 (https://www.wihatools.com/easy-torque-sf-handle-w-torxplus-ip25)

Well there’s the winner!! Just ordered one through Amazon, $50 for the exact right tool for the job. Thanks for spending my money Dan. :D

[Mark Bolton]

Yes, engineers spec things willy nilly. We have no real reason to do so.

Again, Watch an insane, off the shelf, freak of nature, machine insanity level parts and tolerances and feel you need to hyper elevate your wee bitty little part cutter head. Perfectly fine... the simple fact is you rarely even in aerospace see people torquing down inserts. The output is the qualifier. The torque usually has nothing to do with it.

[johnny means]

I use this little guy from Park Tools. It's easy on the wrist and allows me to get to cutters without removing the cutter head (that's a thing on two sided planers).

[Tom M King]

I've never done anything with these inserts, but thought of something that might apply. A Stihl chainsaw can be completely torn down, and put back together with a T27 T-handle TORX wrench. The long ones are made so when you feel the shaft bending/twisting, you have reached the desired torque for that fastener.

You use the handle to break a fastener loose, and for final tightening, but for running it in, and out, you just spin the shaft between you thumbs, and index fingers. It goes almost as fast as a power driver.

These days, if I'm rebuilding a chainsaw, I use a Milwaukee 12v impact driver to tear one down, but still use the T-handle wrench to put one back together, so I don't have to worry about over-torquing any fastener.

I really like these.

https://www.wihatools.com/torx-tools/t-handles/standard-handle-torx/torx-t-handles

[Alex Zeller]

You may want to verify in your manual the correct torx bit to use. In the Powermatic 20" planer manual they specify a T25P bit. What's odd is that my Powermatic jointer just calls it a "star point" screwdriver and doesn't provide any torque specs. In the planer manual they clearly say " Use the provided screwdriver with the T25Psocket adaptor to remove the knife insert screw.See Figure 20. NOTE: A T25 adaptor or drivercan round out the screw head recess. Alwaysuse a T25-Plus driver or adaptor" and "IMPORTANT: Maximum torque fortightening the screws is 45 to 55 inchpounds (3.75 to 4.6 foot pounds)". Both manuals say "Before installing each screw, lightly coat thescrew threads with machine oil and wipe offany excess" which would impact the torque value vs a dry screw.


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[glenn bradley]

Yes, engineers spec things willy nilly. We have no real reason to do so.

Coffee on the monitor. Made my morning ;-)

[Cary Falk]

I know you said quality but the Harbor Freight one works fine for me. I would think any impact bits would be good enough.

[Roger Feeley]

How would I go about calibrating a cheap torque wrench?
it seems to me that I could do it by simply making a 2” round thing, putting some cord around it and suspending a 45lb weight. If it doesn’t click at 44lbs and does click at 45lbs, I’m good.

[Ole Anderson]

There is a YouTube video floating around showing that the HF torque wrenches (at least the 1/2" size), are as accurate as most any higher quality wrench, within 4% which is plenty considering not using a torque wrench as suggested by some will likely result in a 20-30% error or more. Personally I have a 3/8" and a 1/2" Craftsman DigiTorque wrench and a 1/4" HF clicker set and locked just to tighten the cap bolts on my Jeep's U-Joints. HF claims this little checker is good to within +/-2%. https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/torque-wrenches/12-in-drive-digital-torque-adapter-63917.html

[Alex Zeller]

I think the problem with most HF tools is over the long haul. Right out of the box most are most likely very accurate (although their QC is one where the customer is the inspector). But they wear quicker. For something like this, that will be done rarely I'm sure something from HF would work just fine. Personally my plan is to use my cordless drill to remove the screws and after cleaning everything up I'll use it to put the screws back in. I'll just put it in screwdriver mode and set the clutch to a very low setting. From there it's just a matter of using the torque driver to set them.

[Phil Gaudio]

My Minimax J/P was supplied with a small T-handle torque wrench:

[Bill Dufour]

Fernco sells a decent quality self relaesing tee handle torque wrench preset at 60 inch pound which is too high. Maybe it could be reset?
Bil lD.

https://www.fernco.com/products/flexible-couplings/torque-wrenches

[Bill Dufour]

Took me a few days to remember but WERA is the brand I have heard of for quality self realeasing torque drovers.
Bill D.
https://products.wera.de/en/torque_tools_series_7400_kraftform_torque_screwdri vers_variable_torque_adjustment_models.html