How do I make these cab door profiles?

[scott vroom]

I'm making a couple of kitchen cabs for a friend and need to match the door profiles of the existing cabs. I'm stuck on two of them: 1) door edge round over and 2) door finger pull profile. Pics:

Finger pull: Can anyone recommend a brand/model bit for the finger pull?

Edge profile: Top edge is a roundover, but how did they roundover the 90 degree corners? I can't see doing it without a bearing, but where would the bearing seat?

Appreciate comments...thanks!

[johnny means]

You just round the corner off before doing the front edge. This can be done in a table with the door on edge or handheld with the router held sideways. The bearing rides on the adjacent edge.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I would think that you could do the finger pull route out using a box bit.

The top profile would be done with a roundover bit, putting the face of the door face down on the table and the bearing riding on the inside flat part of the door. You will likely need some light sanding on the corner to get the effect you want.

[scott vroom]

Ah OK...I was thinking the 90 degree corner was done with a flush trim bit, but that would require a pattern board under the door on which the bearing would land. You're saying you simply rotate the router 90 degrees and round over the 90 degree corner as if it were the door edge...doh :o. I'm thinking the correct work flow is to round the 4 90 degree corners first using a hand held router, then finish on the router table rounding over the 4 side edges.

Grant, the box bit should do the trick.

Thanks, gentlemen, for your help and advice!

[Jim Becker]

That kind of hidden pull can be done with a simple 45º chamfer bit. No real need for the box/round-nose bit which would require lifting for the ends.

[Bill Dufour]

upside down on a shaper for the round over. Flat or vertical with a core box bit. use tape and mark the fence with start and end lines. using a router is asking for tippy stock and poor looking job. If you had to you could use a stanley molding plane. You would have to buy or grind two blades to match.
Bill D

[Bruce Wrenn]

For the finger pull, using router table, install start / stop blocks on the fence

[scott vroom]

That kind of hidden pull can be done with a simple 45º chamfer bit. No real need for the box/round-nose bit which would require lifting for the ends.

Jim, I'm matching existing doors for a customer....I think for this job I'll need to use the box bit with start/stop blocks on the router table.

Thanks.

[scott vroom]

upside down on a shaper for the round over. Flat or vertical with a core box bit. use tape and mark the fence with start and end lines. using a router is asking for tippy stock and poor looking job. If you had to you could use a stanley molding plane. You would have to buy or grind two blades to match.
Bill D

Bill, trying to keep it simple and low cost....I only have 10 doors to make. I have a router table, no shaper in the shop. On rounding those 90 degree corners, yeah I was concerned about using a hand held router. I plan to practice using a Porter Cable 690. We'll see how it goes. I'd like to avoid rounding them by hand....there are 40 corners to do. I suppose I could mark the radius and round them on an edge sander.

[Steve Jenkins]

Done hundreds of corners with a 690. CLamp the door in a vise and balance the router on the edge. Use it a round-over bit with bearing. Hold the base down with your thumb and pivot keeping the bearing against the vertical edge. Rout the corners before the edges. Edges can be done with the doors flat.

[scott vroom]

Done hundreds of corners with a 690. CLamp the door in a vise and balance the router on the edge. Use it a round-over bit with bearing. Hold the base down with your thumb and pivot keeping the bearing against the vertical edge. Rout the corners before the edges. Edges can be done with the doors flat.

Steve, that's what I'm envisioning....thanks.

Looking at the finger pull pic, it looks like a smallish box bit was used. Anyone venture a guess on approximate bit size? They're inexpensive, I'll probably buy two or three sizes to find a match. Maybe 1/4 to 3/8?

[Steve Jenkins]

Looks like 3/8 looking at the tongue which I assume is 1/4

[Bruce Wrenn]

For round over on corners, do them BEFORE you assemble the doors. Miter gauge, or push block on the router table, with loose tenons to assemble the door frame. MLCS has 1/4 and 3/8 core box bits for $10, and $11 respectively, delivered to your door for FREE!

[Rich Aldrich]

That kind of hidden pull can be done with a simple 45º chamfer bit. No real need for the box/round-nose bit which would require lifting for the ends.

This what I use. I am not a fan of hidden door pulls - over time the finish gets scratched from finger nails. It looks a bit dingy then.