Fake through tenons

[Brian Runau]

My wife wants a picture frame with through tenons. I don't have the tools or experience with this, but I thought I could do a simple lap joint frame then run a separate piece through the router with a chamfer bit and chamfer all four edges of a long board; then cut this off and glue it in place as if there was a through tenon.

Any suggestions on an easier way to do this?

Thanks.

Brian

[Sanford Imhoff]

I don't think you'd want to use a lap joint if you're looking for an authentic thru tenon look but otherwise, what you want to do will work fine.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Tiny dowel joint. 1/8" dowels

[Gary Ragatz]

Wood magazine ran an article last fall about making picture frames without miter cuts. They had a couple of versions that use lap joints - you might run some of these by your wife and see if any of them appeal. For the one they describe as lap joints with "ears," you might be able to trim down one of the ears to make it look like a through tenon.

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-how-to/joinery/how-to-make-frames-without-miters

[johnny means]

I've done this having a simple butt joint with a countersunk screw. Then cap your screw with the "tenon end".

[Jim Becker]

I see no reason why you can't do what you want to do, other than the fact that the lap will be visible unless you get creative.

[Jim Matthews]

This could be done with some careful planning.

Lateral pieces (rails) cross cut off 1/8" of the end grain. Keep track of which end came off the top and bottom.



Mark both Vertical pieces (stiles) rip off 1/4" of the outer side grain. The marks indicate where they came off, and alignment for reassembly.

Maintaining the North East South West orientation,
cut and glue up your half laps.

Once dry, glue on the side straps (mind the alignment marks).

Chamfer the edges to the glue line.

Apply the endgrain "tenons".

This could be done with a contrasting wood, fir visual effect.

[Brian Runau]

thanks to everyone. Brian

[roger wiegand]

When I've done this I've made a M&T joint as usual but made the rails a couple inches long. I then cut an inch off each end and make a small (1/2" tenon) on the small cut off pieces, as well as on the rails. I cut a mortise in both sides of the stile; one side get the rail the other side gets the stub tenoned piece. That way the wood matches and looks like the same board coming through. The only advantage of this vs a real through tenon is that it can be hard to get a perfect looking joint on the outside of the rail, with a M&T with shoulders there is never any gap.

I do a fair amount of restoration work, lap joints have almost always failed because of the cross grain construction. I wouldn't build anything new that way.

[Warren Lake]

id just make it the way it was always done. I dont have much patience for cope and stick, pocket holes, breast implants or lip sinking. I dont get why so many want to do woodworking of some sort and then instead get a Gizmo Festool or Kreg or some gizmo so they dont have to do it. Old guys i knew all did mortise and tennon and how they were taught till they died in their mid 80's. It was time proven stuff for 1000 years back or more.

Old guy said you do what is comfortable for you, I still do what I learned from him and am comfortable with that. No offense to the OP.

[Prashun Patel]

Gluing an end grain piece on the end of a lap joint? You'll be embarrassed you did that years later (DAMHIKT).

Instead, I'd just cut the laps a little long at the shoulder so each half lap overhangs it's partner by 1/4". In fact, I JUST did that on my son's bath vanity mirror. Easy and gives you the same look. Plus you don't have to glue on end grain.

FWIW, my office mate bought some stools from costco featuring pocket screws and painted on through tenons. I cringe every time I see it.

I rarely am a ww snob, but have come to see this as a lame trick.