parks 12" planer

[mark downing]

I'm reassembling this planer with help from the great information on OWWM. Having trouble finding a dial indicator that is short enough in length to fit between the planer table and the cutter head. This space is 4 1/2" which seems to be the length of most affordable dial indicators.
I need to make a 3/4" base for the indicator to complete the OWWM procedures so 4 1/2" is too tall.
Can anyone suggest a dial indicator short enough (3" - 3 1/2") that will work?

[Bill Dufour]

I bought Harbor Freight DI and used a hacksaw to shorten the plunger. Your other choice is a test indicator but that will be hard to read buried in there.
Bil lD

[Rob Beaupre]

I believe the dial indicator I bought for setting my General 130 planer was a Mitutoyo 1410S. I am no expert in dial indicators but when looking for one I found that AGD Series 1 were the smallest in terms of overall height and dial size.

[Carroll Courtney]

Are you talking about setting the blades same height?

[mark downing]

Yes, the indicator is used for knife adjustment but also positioning of the cutter head in relation to the table.

[Matthew Hills]

I believe the dial indicator I bought for setting my General 130 planer was a Mitutoyo 1410S. I am no expert in dial indicators but when looking for one I found that AGD Series 1 were the smallest in terms of overall height and dial size.

I got a compact mitutoyo, as well. It wasn't cheap, but I was also looking for a nice gauge so was willing to get it. I think I chose the model that does not have a screw hole in the back, which would have been more versatile.

I did my setup following the article by Bob Vaughan and was able to get overall roller and head alignments set up.

Carroll -- the compact dial gauge is used to check underneath the cutter head -- checking alignment of the beds to the blade and the rollers.

Matt

[Richard Coers]

Get a last word indicator. Almost flat and you can get a nice base that's about an inch thick.

[Bradley Gray]

I use a pair of magnetic indicators that hold the knife and reference off the head. Makes the process quick and easy. I think they came from Woodcraft - I will look when I get to the shop today.

[Matt Day]

I use a pair of magnetic indicators that hold the knife and reference off the head. Makes the process quick and easy. I think they came from Woodcraft - I will look when I get to the shop today.

The problem I have with those is getting precise Knife adjustment with them. Once it’s set where you want it, it might be okay but if you’re setting knives they jus get in the way. Unless there’s a better version of the ones I have, which were fairly expensive.

[Bill Dufour]

I bent a screwdriver to 90 degrees to make a little allen wrench to lift the blades up. Easy enough to push down. Makes adjusting blades much easier and faster. I used a propane torch to bend a horrible freight free screwdriver. It was 8-10 inch long. Angle the bend so the blade slips into the slot with the handle up.

[glenn bradley]

Skip the recommended base. Use a 1-2-3 block. Think about the overall height with the plunger nearly fully depressed. You are only measuring a "difference" not an overall measurement.

439675

[mark downing]

now I've created the Bob Vaughn recommended cutter head gauge. This device receives the dial indicator and is positioned on top of the cutter head to accurately place the knives.
Although my device was completed carefully, more madness has ensued. It sits properly on the cutter head and holds the indicator nicely but any minute twisting of the wrist or simple repositioning right to left invites new dial readings. Getting nowhere.
I have no problem investing in one of the magnetic devices if anyone can recommend this method.
I'm new to even basic machine work but it seems that positioning either device on a radius cutter head invites inaccuracy. Help.

[Bobby Robbinett]

You planer bed only goes to 4.5” capacity? My 15” Bridgewood is like 6” if I remember correctly. Get yourself a Rotacator or a 1 way tools multi gauge. You can also use 123 blocks and screw the indicator to them.

[Bradley Gray]

Mark,
I'm not sure how old your Parks planer is but mine is an early model w/o jib screws. My big planer also lacks jib screws. Without them, even with an dial indicator, the knives slid around while tightening. For me, the magnetic gauges turned a frustrating couple hours into a 20 minute routine.

I bought mine from Woodcraft about 10 years ago but the no longer list them but google listed a bunch of them. Here's the one from Griz:

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-Planer-Knife-Setting-Jig-2-pc-Set-/T30376

[Bill Dufour]

No need for 123 blocks. just joint one face smooth on a piece of 2x4 and screw the DI to that. You may want to notch the bottom so it stradldes the bed rollers.
Bill D

[Bruce Wrenn]

Most of the inexpensive dial indicators are AG-2 size. Search for AG-1 sizes.

[Ian Lerew]

I found this one on Amazon and built the Bob Vaughn base.

Pro Series by HHIP 4400-0003 AGD Group 1 Dial Indicator, 0-.250" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BHHXGEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IQWrFbSDRNG6S

[mark downing]

Thanks Ian, I found that one also. I like Bill's simple idea of a jointed 2x to receive the DI on the planer table. The "crow's foot" jig on top of the cutter head takes a lot of delicate maneuvering but I'm getting there. Doubt I'll invest in the magnetic devices.
Thanks everyone, keep 'em coming.
Mark