Home Depot Stanley

[Goodwin Heil]

Stanley Plane Problems
I just bought a relatively Inexpensive Home Depot Stanley Jack Plane. It was $70. They called it their Contractors model. I sharpened it well, adjusted the throat, and smoothed the edge on the chip breaker, (no light showing). Put it all together, and the nightmare began. Initially, it cut nice for one or two passes, but then something got under the chip breaker and opened it a little. After that it was "Katy bar the door". It would load up with shavings. I tried honing the chip breaker numerous times, until it was dead flat, and then moving it forward closer to the edge, moving it further from the edge. I have made the throat larger, made the throat smaller. It just seem like there is not enough tension to keep super thin chips out. I have various other planes that are in the process of restoration, but I needed one Now. I thought I would buy this cheapy and tune it up, but I am doing something wrong. I am desperate for any ideas.

[Jerome Andrieux]

Stanley Plane Problems
I just bought a relatively Inexpensive Home Depot Stanley Jack Plane. It was $70. They called it their Contractors model. I sharpened it well, adjusted the throat, and smoothed the edge on the chip breaker, (no light showing). Put it all together, and the nightmare began. Initially, it cut nice for one or two passes, but then something got under the chip breaker and opened it a little. After that it was "Katy bar the door". It would load up with shavings. I tried honing the chip breaker numerous times, until it was dead flat, and then moving it forward closer to the edge, moving it further from the edge. I have made the throat larger, made the throat smaller. It just seem like there is not enough tension to keep super thin chips out. I have various other planes that are in the process of restoration, but I needed one Now. I thought I would buy this cheapy and tune it up, but I am doing something wrong. I am desperate for any ideas.

I would presume that when you close the lever cap, the chip breaker springs open a little bit at the edge, like a ">". This is common on low quality chip breaker: as the metal is too soft/springy, we tend to over-tension the lever cap, and thus deforming the chip breaker further.

One way to remedy this issue is to grind the chip breaker lip with the tail hanging out off the stone. What you are aiming for is the blade and chip breaker tips to meet as an acute "<", not matching perfectly as a "=".

In my experience:

1. Today’s big buck store hand planes quality is bad, from soft iron to banana construction. Nothing good ever comes out trying to tune them up.
2. Fitting the chip breaker to the blade means it’s sharpened and polished to a 45-80° bevel, convex or not, meeting the blade with an acute angle, say 5°, so that when pressed by the lever cap, it would no spring open.
3. Testing tightness is easier with feeler gauges than trying to see through.
4. The chip breaker can be set very close (less than a millimeter) when smoothing hardwood (shaving will not be strong enough to force their way in) and set further away (more than a millimeter) when used as a scrub (in which case the strong shavings will be too thick for force their way.

[Josko Catipovic]

I would guess 'return' is the right answer.

[Goodwin Heil]

I appreciate the in depth reply and I will try to further refine the chip breaker so it establishes a < shape.
As far as returning it, if only I could. After the steps I have taken trying toseal the chip breaker tighter I do not believe it is returnable.

[Mark Rainey]

[QUOTE=Goodwin Heil;3047828]I appreciate the in depth reply and I will try to further refine the chip breaker so it establishes a < shape.
As far as returning it, if only I could. After the steps I have taken trying toseal the chip breaker tighter I do not believe it is returnable.[/QUOTE
Home Depot has a great return policy - they like happy customers - they will take it back.

[Phil Mueller]

As Mark said, they will likely take it back. I doubt they will even look at it, let alone examine it.

[Christopher Herzog]

I would be shocked if they did not take it back. Had a water heater of theirs go bad way too soon. Like year 2 of a 10 year warranty model. They got it dropped on their floor with the clear understanding of not returning those to the store. They smiled and got me another one to take home.

Chris

[Charles Guest]

Stanley Plane Problems
I just bought a relatively Inexpensive Home Depot Stanley Jack Plane. It was $70. They called it their Contractors model. I sharpened it well, adjusted the throat, and smoothed the edge on the chip breaker, (no light showing). Put it all together, and the nightmare began. Initially, it cut nice for one or two passes, but then something got under the chip breaker and opened it a little. After that it was "Katy bar the door". It would load up with shavings. I tried honing the chip breaker numerous times, until it was dead flat, and then moving it forward closer to the edge, moving it further from the edge. I have made the throat larger, made the throat smaller. It just seem like there is not enough tension to keep super thin chips out. I have various other planes that are in the process of restoration, but I needed one Now. I thought I would buy this cheapy and tune it up, but I am doing something wrong. I am desperate for any ideas.

It seems silly to bother with something like this when quality, antique planes are available by the dozens on any given day on everyone's favourite auction site, not to mention tool dealers' sites.

[ken hatch]

It seems silly to bother with something like this when quality, antique planes are available by the dozens on any given day on everyone's favourite auction site, not to mention tool dealers' sites.

Goodwin,

And unless prices on a #5 have gone way up since my last look, for about the same money.

Having said that Jerome's advice is right on, in fact I was going to make pretty much the same post and he saved me the trouble. That is if you wish to keep the plane.

ken

[Goodwin Heil]

Where, Pray tell, is everyone's favorite auction site. I would much rather have a quality vintage #5 if I can find one.

[ken hatch]

Where, Pray tell, is everyone's favorite auction site. I would much rather have a quality vintage #5 if I can find one.

Code for eBay,

ken

[Jim Koepke]

The mating edge of the chip breaker should be a bevel where it meets the blade. This way when it compresses some it maintains a seal against shavings.

There is a lot of information in the archives > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805-Neanderthal-wisdom-FAQs

Here is an old post of mine on rehabilitating old planes > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?114373

There are also other posts about plane rehabilitation by others in the archive.


Where, Pray tell, is everyone's favorite auction site. I would much rather have a quality vintage #5 if I can find one.

The auction site that often goes without name is ebay.

It amazes me how much some planes are now costing compared to a decade ago. It may have a lot to do with how ebay has reformed itself to purge itself of the smaller dealers.

Goodwin, there is also a Saw Mill Creek Classifieds section available to contributors for a mere $6 a year. If what you are looking for is not listed you can use a WTB (Want to Buy) ad.

There are also other options depending on your locality. Of course listing all of the local dealers to check in my area would be of no use if you are in Florida.


I have various other planes that are in the process of restoration, but I needed one Now.

Putting a plane or two together from a pile of parts shouldn't take more than a few hours if you aren't trying for perfection.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Goodwin,

I just looked, it looks like a #5 asking is between ~$40 USD to $100 USD plus shipping. The problem with shopping eBay is you may end up kissing a few frogs before finding your prince. The frogs can make good parts donators so all is not lost.

ken

[Michael J Evans]

As Mark said, they will likely take it back. I doubt they will even look at it, let alone examine it.

100% agree (and they'll prob try to put it back in stock)
I have had two experiences now where a Christmas gift came used. About 8 years ago my mother bought be a Ryobi miter saw, got it home and the fence was wonky so I went to exchange it. The next one they brought out I asked to be removed from box so I could check the fence and it was totally used. Sawdust in the bag, on the arm, etc.

Last year my mom bought me a DeWalt cordless multi tool, same thing, blades were clearly used, sawdust all over the tool, etc.

It has really pissed me off both times. If you are going to have a return all policy, at least put the items on clearance or something. Don't try to half ass clean then and sell as new.

[Michael J Evans]

Like others have said #5 are plentiful in the wild. I haven't been at it as long as the others above, but it seems like 90% of the planes I find at garage, estate, antique sales are either 4 or 5's. I second the WTB ad, I put up a WTB for a wood jointer and got a variety of options.

[Goodwin Heil]

Well, thanks to all the excellent advice, I sent the HD frog packing. As you all have said, it more than likely will become someone else's headache and frustration. I am going to cruise Ebay now and see what I can find.

[glenn bradley]

Well, thanks to all the excellent advice, I sent the HD frog packing. As you all have said, it more than likely will become someone else's headache and frustration. I am going to cruise Ebay now and see what I can find.

A good decision. A used No 4 or a Millers Falls No 9 should be able to be had at that price point. Patrick Leach had a MF No 9 last month (http://www.supertool.com/forsale/may/t69.jpg) for under $70 that may still be around. Private owner prices could be better. Here's others (https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Millers%20Falls%20No%209&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-156598-669111-9&mkcid=2&keyword=millers%20falls%20no%209&crlp=435060525816_&MT_ID=585566&geo_id=10232&rlsatarget=kwd-300908616133&adpos=&device=c&mktype=&loc=9031490&poi=&abcId=1141796&cmpgn=6537756429&sitelnk=&adgroupid=79157546155&network=g&matchtype=e&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7ILg4tax6wIVVBx9Ch369wDYEAMYASAA EgLjevD_BwE). You may want to look into the 'types' (https://oldtoolheaven.com/bench/benchtable.htm) if you are going to shop ebay. There are pre, during and post WWII models that differ widely.

[Goodwin Heil]

Glenn, thanks. Millers Fall opens up some more options at a little more reasonable price point for more than acceptable quality.

[Jim Koepke]

If you are going to have a return all policy, at least put the items on clearance or something. Don't try to half ass clean then and sell as new.

It sounds like they didn't even do a quarter ass clean on the ones that came your way. This is one of my reasons for always checking the box an item is in to see if there is any sign of the package being opened.

Though sometimes a good deal or two was had by purchasing the 'previously opened' packages. These were hardware like fasteners where boxes had been opened. They poured them all into one box and marked it to half price. Ended up with about 50 1/4-20 wing nuts at half price of a box of 10.

Millers Falls, Sargent and Stanley all made quality planes at one time. My suggestion is you choose one brand and stay with it. Otherwise you may want to set up different storage bins for the parts from different brands.

For some, having various planes from different makers works fine. For others, they like to keep their planes all of the same date type.

Occasionally something other than a Stanley plane comes my way. They are often tuned up and put to work. A Dunlap by Millers Falls was in my shop for a long time until it went home with my grandson. It works every bit as well as the Stanley/Bailey of the same size.

A few links for more information on planes:

Patrick Leach has a great site for learning about the different planes made by Stanley > http://www.supertool.com < This is the home page. You may want to bookmark a few pages in after the required reading.

Jonny Kleso has a great site for dating Stanley/Bailey planes > http://www.rexmill.com/planes101/typing/typing.htm

There is also a lot of other information on his pages.

A type study chart some prefer > http://primeshop.com/access/woodwork/stanleyplane/pftsynch.htm

For information on Millers Falls > http://oldtoolheaven.com/index.html

The Time Tested Tools site has a lot of information and a lot of links > https://www.timetestedtools.net

That is a lot of reading and it is worth it.

jtk

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Stanley Plane Problems
I just bought a relatively Inexpensive Home Depot Stanley Jack Plane. It was $70. They called it their Contractors model. I sharpened it well, adjusted the throat, and smoothed the edge on the chip breaker, (no light showing). Put it all together, and the nightmare began. Initially, it cut nice for one or two passes, but then something got under the chip breaker and opened it a little. After that it was "Katy bar the door". It would load up with shavings. I tried honing the chip breaker numerous times, until it was dead flat, and then moving it forward closer to the edge, moving it further from the edge. I have made the throat larger, made the throat smaller. It just seem like there is not enough tension to keep super thin chips out. I have various other planes that are in the process of restoration, but I needed one Now. I thought I would buy this cheapy and tune it up, but I am doing something wrong. I am desperate for any ideas.

Not trying to discourage anyone from rolling the dice on eBay, but it sounds like you have some time invested already. If you are sure the breaker is dead flat (and the back of the blade is dead flat) and there is just not enough tension, you could try putting the working end in a vice and adding a little bit of bend to give a little tension when the screw is tightened. Small pressure, test, slightly more, repeat.

[Jim Koepke]

You may also have the lever cap screw too tight.

jtk

[Bob Jones 5443]

Goodwin, if you've returned the plane this may be too late for the Home Depot plane, but you might just find that your eBay plane needs some TLC, too.

First, read Jim K.'s first post carefully. The chip breaker needs about 1º to 1.5º relief bevel at the end where it meets the plane iron. This is so only the finest sliver of the front of the breaker touches the iron. You can put the bevel on by resting the business end of breaker on a sharpening stone while supporting the heel end a few millimeters lower, either on the table, or more likely on a shim some portion of the thickness of the sharpening stone. There is no finer reference than this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26MIz2ywD04

Study it well and copy the steps. Good luck.

[Rafael Herrera]

Here's another English man demonstrating old school chip breaker preparation. If you find his other follow up videos he demonstrates tear out prevention by setting the chip breaker close to the edge.

https://youtu.be/fVfJxDFNinc

[lowell holmes]

I would check the auction site for planes, you can find good stuff there.

I bought a set of Bedrock planes there.

[Curt Harms]

Where, Pray tell, is everyone's favorite auction site. I would much rather have a quality vintage #5 if I can find one.

I think there's a bit of a misunderstanding re posting ebay listings here. I've posted ebay stuff here and not gotten 'spoken to' about it. What you can't do is make ebay listings clickable e.g. copy/paste. Something about costing SMC money when someone clicks on a live link on Sawmill Creek. Keith also doesn't want someone using SMC's resources to promote that poster's business which seems reasonable. What does past muster AFAIK is to reference an ebay number but not have it clickable. There are various ways to accomplish that.

[Jim Koepke]

What does past muster AFAIK is to reference an ebay number but not have it clickable. There are various ways to accomplish that.

It appears to be okay to list an item number. Search > 224123833146 < on ebay and it should take you to a Stanley/Bailey #4-1/2. I have not decided whether or not it has a hairline crack at the top edge of the mouth or not.

Another problem with linking to auctions is a year from now they will be wasted links.

I haven't heard about costing SMC money when people click on a "live link." What makes a link live as opposed to not costing money?

jtk

[Bob Jones 5443]

Patrick Leach's August tool list has these fine-looking planes:

a #5C of WWII vintage for $95. Item ST35.

a 5-1/2, probably Type 7 or 8 (?) for $115. Item ST66.

a #605-1/2, maybe Type 5 (?) for $125. Item ST80.

A typical month has three or so of these jacks. You can get on his email list through this link:

http://www.supertool.com/oldtools.htm

[Nicholas Lawrence]

I think there's a bit of a misunderstanding re posting ebay listings here. I've posted ebay stuff here and not gotten 'spoken to' about it. What you can't do is make ebay listings clickable e.g. copy/paste. Something about costing SMC money when someone clicks on a live link on Sawmill Creek. Keith also doesn't want someone using SMC's resources to promote that poster's business which seems reasonable. What does past muster AFAIK is to reference an ebay number but not have it clickable. There are various ways to accomplish that.

I think they just want people to be able to follow the discussion in the future. If a photo is posted, people some years down the road will be able to see what was being discussed. If it was an ebay link, which vanishes after however long, the thread will be useless to anybody trying to figure out what was being discussed.

Maybe one of the moderators can clarify.

[Goodwin Heil]

Two excellent YTs on preparing the chip breaker. And the wealth of knowledge offered on planes is incredible. All you guys are incredible! Thank you.

[Curt Harms]

I haven't heard about costing SMC money when people click on a "live link." What makes a link live as opposed to not costing money?

jtk

That's what I remember, memory's the second thing to go you know:). Dead links are also a consideration which is why SMC discourages linking pictures from a 3rd site. There are a lot of dead photobucket links around the interwebz.

[steven c newman]

Menard's ( Green BORG) has switched from Stanley over to Craftsman.....the Stanley and Great Neck planes have been replaced by "Record-Irwins-Marples"....about the same as a Lowes "Kobalt" plane....junk.

1/2 the weight of the Menard's "Record No. 4" plane..is the THICK coat of BLUE paint....

[Richard Hutchings]

I find it hard to believe this plane can't be made to work. It's a blade, chip-breaker and blade holder. Sure the old Stanleys and records and fullers on and on are better made but the same principles apply to setting them up to work. Get this to work before you return it and you'll have learned something and you'll be better prepared to clean up an old plane to make it work. You should be able to get 2 or 3 for what you paid for this. Used to be you could get 10. Those days are gone.

[steven c newman]

Menard's "Record" No. 4 is just about $20, or so...

[Jim Koepke]

Menard's "Record" No. 4 is just about $20, or so...

Does this imply the solution for an inexpensive plane that is not working is to rush out and buy another cheap plane with, "1/2 the weight of the Menard's "Record No. 4" plane..is the THICK coat of BLUE paint.... "?

It also appears the nearest Menard's is over fifty miles from Upton… That is if you are a flying crow.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Just a heads up for those that ARE near enough to go TO a Menard's.....nothing more....yes I even thought about buying it....until I READ Paul Sellers review of the same plane in his BLOG....and, even Sellers failed to get it to act like a plane should, BTW.

(must be a big crow? Pass the salt?))

[Richard Hutchings]

Now I want to buy one :-)

[Goodwin Heil]

To get true Baltic Birch Ply I have to order it from Menards. and for me that means a trip to Clarksville in Indiana, about 80 miles. Nonetheless, I much prefer Menards over the other two.
Much to my delight there is a new Menards under construction 17 miles away in Elizabethtown, it is the first one in the area.
In another vein, I ended up buying a Jack off of the classifieds right here that is purported to be in excellent condition, and appears so. I should have it in three or four days.

[Jerry Olexa]

Its relatively easy to find a pre WW2 Stanley for less than what you paid...Generally, they will perform well for less $...Just my experience.

[Stephen Schmidt]

Not helpful this point! Just sayin...

[mike stenson]

Not helpful this point! Just sayin...

Ok, now I'm confused. Lots of help was given

[steven c newman]

Note: So far this year...have bought a Sargent No. 414c ($40) and Craftsman ( Sargent) No. 414 ($45).....and a Millers Falls No. 15 (stanley no. 5-1/2 size) for also about $45 or so....

There was also a Stanley No. 3, Type 11 picked at a garage sale...$5....just needed a new lever cap. Also a No. 4 sized smooth plane ($15, but needed tuned up..meh)

Next weekend, I will be going back to the Tractor Fest @ West Liberty, OH. I usually find a plane, or three, there. Last year, it was a Stanley No. 6...$15.
Not once did I use that "auction site" other than a part I needed..for a Stanley No. 71-1/2 Router plane.

It is not that hard to do, really.

[Tony Wilkins]

Ok, now I'm confused. Lots of help was given
Think he already bought a vintage Stanley iirc.

[mike stenson]

Think he already bought a vintage Stanley iirc.


Well, we should then just close every thread when the OP is done.

Just sayin'

[Goodwin Heil]

I am starting to realize how collecting and restoring and researching these planes could become addictive. OMG!!

[ken hatch]

I am starting to realize how collecting and restoring and researching these planes could become addictive. OMG!!

So much so, working wood may be forgotten.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

I am starting to realize how collecting and restoring and researching these planes could become addictive. OMG!!

You do not know how addictive until you have stumbled through the looking glass > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805

jtk

[steven c newman]

440004
Just imagining walking by a display like this....:eek:

[Goodwin Heil]

Omg!! Omg!!!!

[steven c newman]

In a small town called Harmony, OH....corner of I-70 and US 40....there is a store called Heart of Ohio Antique Center....this was in ONE of the EIGHT "rooms" in the place....IF you go, plan on at least 3-4 hours of just walking around in there...
440195440196440197440198
I was there this last May...as a Birthday Present to myself....