Better way to run electrical to interior shop machines? PIC

[Steve Mathews]

Rather than run cords along the floor to power interior shop machines I ran them overhead zip tied to the dust collection ducts. At least they're not tripping hazards. I'm not satisfied with the look though and wonder if there is a more finished or refined way of doing it. Maybe wires in rigid conduit?
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[Jim Becker]

Conduit would certainly look better, but it's a matter of how much effort and expense you want to take on for this. A few more ties could also clean up what you show in your photo at minimum cost.

[Charlie Velasquez]

Add a few collar ties just above your duct work. Would give a little more storage. Then run a circuit to feed overhead outlets. Retractable reels will give access when needed and they are out of the way when not.

[Wayne Cannon]

Code doesn't like exposed cable that could be hit with a board, etc., so conduit or routing the cable above or behind ducting would probably be recommended.

[Steve Mathews]

Code doesn't like exposed cable that could be hit with a board, etc., so conduit or routing the cable above or behind ducting would probably be recommended.

This is one example of what I never liked about prescribed building codes. I hardly see that elevating a power code as shown in the photo is more prone to damage than having it lie on the floor as would normally be done. But I get the point. I'm still searching for a better way to run the cable. I will in the meantime fasten what's already in place with more ties and position them better. What's currently shown was just meant to be temporary.

[Bill Dufour]

A open top cable raceway or tray would be easy to make from some 1x4 boards or use some gutters. A j'box cover plate could be screwed to the bottom to mount a cable clamp at each drop. Or maybe just a nipple long enough to penetrate the board. Leave it open top so you can drop in a new cable as needed.
I have no idea about codes vs rodents chewing on exposed wiring. I did see the posted picture of the guard dog who chewed off the plastic car bumper.
Bill D.

a picture is worth a thousand words
https://www.cnbonet.com/blog/wire-mesh-cable-tray-advantages/

[Bill Dufour]

They also make cable trays that look like a miniature ladder. That allows drops with no need to make a hole. Again I am not sure what code says about attaching a hanging cable for support.
The NEC does not apply for stuff under 50? volts so for tv and computer cables anything is allowed.
Bill D

[Travis Conner]

Code doesn't like exposed cable that could be hit with a board, etc., so conduit or routing the cable above or behind ducting would probably be recommended.

I'd love to see the wording hit with a board in the code book. I dont think their is anything wrong with what he's doing. What they don't like is wrapping them together in a bundle causes the wiring to heat up.

[Rod Sheridan]

Where I live cab tyre cannot be used as a substitute for permanent wiring, nor can it be attached to structures.

EMT is what I used in my shop except for one drop cord supported by a proper Kelley’s support.....Rod

[Frank Pratt]

Where I live cab tyre cannot be used as a substitute for permanent wiring, nor can it be attached to structures.

And cord going through a wall of ceiling partition will really freak out an inspector.

[Jim Becker]

This is one example of what I never liked about prescribed building codes. I hardly see that elevating a power code as shown in the photo is more prone to damage than having it lie on the floor as would normally be done. But I get the point. I'm still searching for a better way to run the cable. I will in the meantime fasten what's already in place with more ties and position them better. What's currently shown was just meant to be temporary.

Hanging a cord is a different thing than extending a circuit and outlet via the same pathway. I think you're just fine the way you are...just use some more ties like I previously mentioned to clean things up.

[Bill Dufour]

When I worked at the lab they had to throw out extension cords every ten? years. The NEC does not allow extension cords to be plugged in full time since they gradually get hard and fray. I never got any but many people had nice commercial grade cords at home that looked perfect. better then brand new from the box store.
Bill D

[Travis Conner]

Anyone ever just have all the outlets run to one centralized location on the wall, then just run the cords along the wall to the outlet? Definitely cheaper for an electrician to install.

[Frank Pratt]

Anyone ever just have all the outlets run to one centralized location on the wall, then just run the cords along the wall to the outlet? Definitely cheaper for an electrician to install.

And more dangerous, messy looking, harder to clean up. Why not just have about 50 receptacles at the main panel in your house & then run extension cords to every room?

[Jim Becker]

Anyone ever just have all the outlets run to one centralized location on the wall, then just run the cords along the wall to the outlet? Definitely cheaper for an electrician to install.

I would not do that for the reasons that Frank mentioned. On the other hand, i'm of the opinion that some folks "over outlet", too, which raises cost without materially providing representative utility. Our shops certainly need an outlet density well above normal residential because of what we do and what we do it with, of course, but it's best to find that "happy medium" that satisfies the needs without requiring use of extension cords the majority of the time.

[Stewart Lang]

Have you tried the new wireless power cords? :D

[Rollie Meyers]

As soon as cord is attached to a surface it is permanent wiring, and not code compliant.

[Jim Becker]

As soon as cord is attached to a surface it is permanent wiring, and not code compliant.

While I can see the validity of this logic in the big picture, it would seem to be a bit draconian in a practical sense as there are many situations where a cord or extension cord is held in a particular place/route for safety reasons (tripping, etc.) because hard wiring isn't really possible. I'm going to guess that this is an oft-made violation in the real world!

[Phil Gaudio]

My approach to ceiling drops:

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[Frank Pratt]

My approach to ceiling drops:

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That's the right way to do it.

[Jim Becker]

The alternative to that is a short pigtail with strain relief from the box on the ceiling with twist lock connection to the actual cord.

[Frank Pratt]

The alternative to that is a short pigtail with strain relief from the box on the ceiling with twist lock connection to the actual cord.

Another right way to do it. The advantage with this method is that you can hang the cord drop at a height that you can reach without a ladder.

[Matt Day]

Anyone ever just have all the outlets run to one centralized location on the wall, then just run the cords along the wall to the outlet? Definitely cheaper for an electrician to install.

You shouldn’t be commenting on electrical advice threads, if this is an example of what you think is correct would suffice.

[Mike Henderson]

As soon as cord is attached to a surface it is permanent wiring, and not code compliant.

Just to clarify - are you saying that if I have a cord with a plug on the end of it and I plug it into an outlet - and then attach that cord to something, it's considered permanent wiring? Even though it's not permanently connected into the electrical system (because of the plug)?

Is that part of the national electrical code? Or just local jurisdiction?

Mike