Jet 1236 (Older Blue version) - good bye for Beginner Bowl Turning ?

[Allen Seidman]

I need some advice - I can by a Jet 1236 lathe w the stand and basic tools for $400. it has some rust on the handles but the guy says it works.

Decent value ?
reasonably good for bowls ? one review said the position of the motor can create some challenges ? big issues or minor nuisance ?

Should I grab ? Run away ? or...

thank you,
Allen

[Walter Mooney]

That's the lathe I got from a friend that got me started in this vortex. The slowest speed is around 500 rpm, so as long as you put a reasonably-balanced bowl blank on it to start with, the lathe won't dance around too much! I still have mine, although I haven't used it in a while. I think that's a reasonable price, since there's tools with it, so I say go for it!

Stay safe!

[Allen Seidman]

Walter,

would you suggest a lathe like this or a table top Jet 1221, Nova Comet ii or Rikon 220VSR ?

I never did this before and dont want to buy the wrong lathe !

Allen

[David Walser]

I'm not Walter, but I do have the Harbor Freight clone of the Jet 1236. It was my 1st lathe and I still have it. For the most part, it's been relegated to serving as a buffing station.

If you'd had asked me, I would have answered that whether the Jet 1236 or the other lathes you mentioned would be 'better' depends almost entirely on the type of turning you expect to do. The 1236 is NOT as good at turning bowls as would be any of the other three mentioned. The 1236 also has a Reeves drive, which is reliable if maintained and is unreliable if it's not maintained. The other three have variable speed (which allows them to have a slower minimum rpm, which you want for starting a bowl). Variable speed lathes are easier to maintain than one with a Reeves drive.

What the 1236 has that the others don't is a longer bed. It will allow you to turn longer spindles. For example, my wife makes stained glass lamps and often asks me to turn a base for them. That's what I used my HF clone of the 1236 for. A shorter bed just wouldn't do.

[Richard Coers]

Say good bye to that option and look for a better buy. I hate the cheap Reeves drives that go on that model of lathe. Noisy and continual maintenance is a real pain, and as mentioned, way too fast of a slow speed. I found a used Jet 1642, 1 1/2hp for $1,000. If you want to turn bowls, that's the minimum you should get. Bye, Bye.

[Allen Seidman]

Thanks guys for the advice. I think I will take it advice and pass.

[Thomas Canfield]

The $400 is probably a bargain depending on the tools that come with it. I had one and it does have some limitations, but was a step up from a Jet 1015. I have gone through a Comet II and tested a Comet 14 but now have the Rikon 70-220VS and find it is a pretty good lathe for the money and can turn 12" bowls. Starting something out of balance does require more time than putting the piece on my Powermatic 3520B, but when balanced, up to 12" turn well. Variable speed, reverse, and 3-1/2" quill travel are big advantages. I can see starting to reduce my shop in the next 5 years, but would definitely keep the Rikon over the Powermatic for my reduced shop. Of course, I have a lot of 12 to 20" rough turned bowls and wood to get cleared out of shop first. You might find a 12" lathe adequate for your needs and buying a newer model would be the way to go. If you are looking to go larger later, the $400 jet will get you started and you should be able to get most if not all your investment back later. Get ready for a fun trip.

[Brice Rogers]

My first lathe was a 9 x 36" Craftsman. I think that the lowest speed was around 950 rpms. That is double what the Jet does. To change speeds, I needed to move the belt over. But, honestly, I turned a bunch of bowls, so I think that I always kept it at 950.

If Allen has more $ and the interest, yes, there are better lathes out there. But if Allen just wants to find out if he really has a serious interest in wood turning, perhaps spending $400 wouldn't be too bad. If the Jet comes with a chuck ($100), faceplate ($30), a half dozen decent tools ($100 if not Harbor Fright), then perhaps it might be worth getting. If Allen falls in love with wood turning, then he can probably sell it for the same $ or close and upgrade later. Just my opinion....

[Allen Seidman]

Ok guys. First I want to thank everyone for their insight. I did some more reading and while I found the lathe may have it's issues, it's not a bad device and frankly I am not a skilled Turner.

So, I did buy a lathe - a Jet 1236 . Turns out late last night I did a quick search and found a fairly local bargain. A newer and cleaner JET 1236. After reading all you guy had to offer I decided this one was too good to pass up. It is in like-new condition. I ended up paying more than initial ask but it was a killer deal at $200 with a full set of tools. I plan to replace them w Carbide tipped tools, but figure I may sell these traditional steel tools to gain some or a few bucks.

I figure I'll learn the basics on this and decide lather if I want to upgrade.

I'd post a pic if I knew how... But really clean machine.

[Thomas Canfield]

Don't be in too big a hurry to get rid of the traditional tools. You might find that they get more use than the carbide. There is still a lot to be said for traditional tools. I have a couple of carbide that were given to me or worn but never use. A good sharpening system makes short easy work sharpening and keeping a sharp edge that you cannot get with the carbide.

[Allen Seidman]

I hear you and will take your advice. I tried the roughing gouge today and it was reasonable to use. I have no idea if/how sharp it is by lathe standards.

Now I need to read up and learn how to sharpen.

[David Walser]

When I first started to turn, I bought a lathe, assembled it, and then tried to turn something with my brand new turning tools. I had virtually no success. A dull rock would have done as well! So, I drove the two hours down to Woodcraft in Tucson for a 4-hour introductory turning class. The most important thing I learned? Turning tools do not come sharp from the store. You HAVE to sharpen them! (Why do I have to sharpen turning tools, but not router bits? It makes no sense -- or didn't at the time.) Once I sharpened them -- kinda sorta -- I had much more success. The other things I learned in the class helped, too, but mostly it was having kinda sharp tools.