Moving hand saws

[Eugene Dixon]

I have a limited variety of handsaws, none are high quality, I'm sure. All are hand-me-downs. Still, I'm planning a move and want to protect them as best as possible. How do you 'pack' hand saws?

[Aaron Rosenthal]

Not sure what kind of saws you’re working with. Back saws are generally stiff enough that I wouldn’t worry; larger saws, I might sandwich some thin pieces of wood over the steel.
If the saws have been sharpened lately, I might use blue tape or even cut some thin kerfs into some waste wood to slide over the teeth.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Go to Walmart, Lowes or Home Depot, and get a Rubbermaid style container that fits under a bed. Make sure to get one long enough for your longest saw. Wrap each saw in newspaper and lay in, alternating handles to each side. Tape the lid on and you're good to go.

I moved saws like this and fit between 12 and 20 saws in each container (I have a lot of saws).

[Jim Koepke]

Newspaper can attract moisture. This was discovered on my move from a dry area in California to the relatively humid area of Southwest Washington.

jtk

[Tony Wilkins]

Newspaper can attract moisture. This was discovered on my move from a dry area in California to the relatively humid area of Southwest Washington.

jtk
i would get some of that rust inhibit paper like Lie Nielsen wraps there tools in. Think you can get it from Amazon.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

When I moved I built a saw till. Just a box with a rod at the bottom for the handles to rest on, and a board about 2/3 up with slots sawed in it to hold the blades. I put the saws in and then added a piece of scrap to keep them from backing out. Just an across town move, but it worked very well. If I were going further I probably would have packed the open space and nailed a back and lid on.

[Jim Matthews]

When shipping saws to their "forever homes" I separate them with 1 /2 inch thick insulating board.

Strap them all together with masking tape, alternating handles to opposite ends of a sturdy box.

I tape the tooth line if it's a short trip, but the adhesive can get sticky if it's on more than a few weeks.

[Michael J Evans]

Last time I moved I had my saws in the moving packaging for two years with no ill effects. I took regular bubble wrap and doubled it over on the tooth line, then took painters tape and wrapped it around the plate. Any of my "special" saws I also bubble wrapped the handles. I then made stacks of 4 or 5 and set them on top of each other alternating handle to toe. Then I put painters tape around each stack.

[Robert Hartmann]

I'm on my 15th (and final) military move. I haven't had my saws all that time, but they have been in storage for 3 yrs and 4 yrs on two occasions. Others were less than 3 mo. I would soak them in Jojoba or other oil liberally. I kept the boxes for my Lie Nielsen and Veritas saws. I would wrap them in the paper they came in, put them in the box and then put all in one box making sure the handles were down. I have two Disston No 12's and an old Bishop saw. I oiled them, wrapped them in wrapping paper, put them in a box together and made sure the handles were always down. All have survived with no rust or damage. The long-term storage was in climate controlled storage and packed by me. The other moves were to and from overseas assignments. I packed the boxes, but the movers shipped them in what was surely not climate controlled. I believe if you oil them liberally and pack them in paper along with being around other boxes they will stay safe. If you just put a single box on the garage floor, then I could see some potential moisture issues.

On another note, I've used Boeshield on my tablesaw top also with no issues with rust or damage. That may be an option as well. I soaked it down and covered with plastic (garbage bag) and then taped cardboard over that. I've had it since 2004, so a number of moves to include long-term storage. Just another option.

[steven c newman]

Hmm, maybe walk into the local BORG,,,pick up a 3/4" x 24" x 48" plywood panel....and a pine 1 x6 x 8'


Plywood will supply the top, bottom, 2 sides and the 2 ends of a crate to hold the saws. The pine is cut to re-inforce the corner joints, and 2 sections that go across the crate from front to back...kerf cuts to hold each saw's blade at the heel and toe....space so each handle will have room between the kerf cut and the end of the crate....Pack the ends with a slab of Styrofoam board...saws are laid into the kerfs, alternate which end each saw's handle sits at....Fill in any spaces with foam...then attach the lid with screws. Add handles at each end to help carry the crate.

Later, you can either paint or varnish the crate...maybe add a stencil that says.."SAWS" and even hinge the lid. Be sure to add those black arrows that say "UP" so you and everyone else will know which IS the lid of the box.

[Jerry Olexa]

Blue tape on the blades help protect the cutting edge too