New Shop: kibitzing invited

[Jack Llewyllson]

Hi. New member here, though I've lurked about here and there. My name is Jack.

I'm having a purpose-built shop erected in our backyard. The construction is contracted to a local guy for reasons of efficiency, my increasingly wobbly spine, and the hope of getting it together before the 22nd century. Comments are invited -- requested, in fact -- because while I've been daydreaming about dedicated shop spaces for years, I'm solidly sure that I haven't thought of everything (and some of what I have thought of, I've probably forgotten).

I build furniture, small projects, "TIs" for our house, outdoor garden stuff (trellises, planters, gates, etc.); also turn bowls. I'm a little gimpy and VERY slow and inefficient -- just ask my sweetie!

GENERAL CONSTRUCTION:

The shop's footprint sits at 24 W x 26 L and that won't be changing, as the stem walls are now poured. It's about the biggest I can legally get away with on this property, and I think it'll host my projects adequately if I can keep it organized. Four-inch slab on grade over compacted crushed rock. The walls will rise 12' high over the stem walls (which will add about a foot and a half). Stick-framed on 2x6 under moderate-pitch trusses.

Six-foot "driveway" in front to give a little extra working room on nice days.

Couple of windows and a fiberglass walking door in the long side, with a 16' high-lift garage door across the front. Studs are 2X6 with rock wool insulation and James Hardie siding. The walking door will be a 3-0, 6-8 RH outswing, to preserve wall and floor space on the interior.

Roof will be laminated architectural shingles to approximately match the house.

A storage loft is planned to go across the back (i.e. straight back from the garage door) that will be eight feet AFF at its bottom.

Dry shop, as water is impractical for several reasons.

ELECTRICAL:
Ground conduit runs 4-ga. wire to a 100A Square D QO subpanel with GFCI/AFCI breakers. All 120VAC circuits (including lights, in case I want to tap them) will be 20A over 12/2 yellow Romex. The 240V circuits will run on 10/2 orange Romex and 30A breakers. Some of the circuits are:

==> Two interior lighting circuits
==> One circuit for exterior lighting and outlets (2 ea. quads)
==> Garage door opener circuit
==> Split outlet in ceiling for 120V drop cord reel and air filter
==> 120V tool circuit (2 ea.)
==> 240V tool circuit (2 ea.)

The tool circuits will run around the walls at 48" AFF. The 120V outlets will daisy-chain both circuits into eight quad boxes (deep boxes with 47 c.i. because my fingers are getting clumsier and weaker), such that each box has a duplex outlet from circuit "A" and one from circuit "B"."

The 240V circuits will alternate outlets between the "A" and "B" circuits. If I ever get an itch to run a TIG welder (doubtful, but possible), that outlet will get its own breaker and be located very close to the load center, the better to shorten its run of Very Expensive Wire. One of the 240V circuits will terminate in the ceiling to allow a drop cord at this voltage.

LIGHTS:
Four rows of 3 ea., 8-foot LED fixtures running front-to-back, plus two rows of same running side-to-side on the underside of the loft (these will also have a pair of heater boxes on them). Task lighting as required, from tool circuits.

ROUGH FINISHES:
We'll tile the shop floor with horse stall mats from the ag co-op.

Eight feet up from the stem walls will be covered by vertical sheets of 1/2" ACX screwed (not nailed) to the studs, with French cleats. Haven't decided whether to panel higher than that.

APPROXIMATE TOOL POPULATION of FLOOR HOGS:
JET air filter (overhead)
1.5 h.p. Delta d.c. with a garbage can separator
SawStop 3 h.p. "Pro" with a router table in the extension leaf
3' by 22" rolling toolbox/outfeed
Hand tool bench ~7.5' x 27"
Utility bench ~2' x 8' for sharpening station and benchtop tools
JET 15" planer
Delta 6" jointer (not extra-long tables)
Generic Taiwanese drill press
Mid-sized rollaway tool chest
Hitachi "double hot dog" compressor
JET 12" disk/48" belt sander on a tool cart
Rikon 18" bandsaw
Record Power CL3-48 lathe ("Old Blue")
General floor-standing mortiser
Alaskan mill & Stihl 044 (25" bar)
Possibly a large boomstick safe
Workmate and horses
Stool

SHELF HOGS and DRAWER LINERS:
Several boxes of FESTOOL stuff plus a CT-36 droid vac
A fair assortment of Kreg pocket hole stuff
Lion-style miter trimmer
Moderate copse of levels
Probably 30-odd chisels
Couple doz. hammers and mallets
Nail guns, worm drive, Sawzall, etc.
B.O.S.S. spindler, Delta scroller, three grinders/buffers, Tormek
Around three totes' worth of sentimental hand tools
A doz. or so handsaws of various types
Probably 40 handplanes
A few jigs

I know it's too much stuff to jam into ~600 s.f. without stumbling over things, but I plan to enjoy trying to whip it into shape. I figure, worst case scenario is it'll add about as much value to our little house as it costs (not an illusion I want dispelled; thanks).

Suggestions -- especially suggestions about efficient use of wall storage -- are gratefully considered.

Thanks!

Cheers,

Jack

[Jim Becker]

Welcome to SMC!!! Sounds like it will be a nice space. Keep the lesser used tools mobile so you can herd them into a corner when not needed to free up space to work.

Given you cite some physical challenges consider embracing adjustable height work surfaces for hand tool use and assembly. It really saves the back big-time.

I'm not a fan of garage type doors myself, but I suspect that it may have been a requirement to get the permit as a "garage" rather than a workshop. A 16' door takes up a whole wall, too.

[james manutes]

Welcome to the "creek" . Have you considered a load calc. to get your heating/ cooling requirements ? Do you even need AC or heat ? Consider replacing the trash can separator with a Dust deputy ? Sorry , shop built cyclones are a favorite of mine . How about an Air cleaner also . You have some great gear there , I'd think about better DC , thats about it .

[james manutes]

My Bad ! Just noticed the first thing you listed was an Air Cleaner . sorry .

[Brian Tymchak]

..I'm so jealous of you guys building shops.. :) Congrats!

I can only think of 2 little things to comment on.



I didn't see any accomodation for lumber, sheet goods, turning blanks storage. Do you have plans for that?
Will you at some point consider upgrading your DC to a bigger unit requiring 220? DCs like to be on their own circuit so there is no competition for juice with other tools.

[Frederick Skelly]

Sounds like a nice place. Welcome to the Creek!
Since you also like handtools, you should come visit our Neanderthal sub-forum on SMC.

See you soon.
Fred

[Bruce King]

Sounds real good Jack!
For my fatigued self I have a large heavy sitting bench that is light enough to put on my assembly table. I can stand up an end table on it while messing with drawer alignments etc. Being 6’5” I have to get things up higher. I have a stool that I sit on whenever possible. Also an office chair to sit in while goofing off.

[Robert D Evans]

I'm currently working out of my basement shop but if I ever get permission to build a larger shop, I would design it so that the dust collector and the air compressor were outside of the workshop. Those things make an annoying amount of noise.

[Bruce King]

I'm currently working out of my basement shop but if I ever get permission to build a larger shop, I would design it so that the dust collector and the air compressor were outside of the workshop. Those things make an annoying amount of noise.

I would have a smoke detector in there linked to the ones inside.
Smoke detectors don’t like dust so you would need some kind of filter or a special unit.
Insurance companies don’t like wood shops due to fire hazards with sawdust and chemicals.

[Jim Becker]

I would have a smoke detector in there linked to the ones inside.
Smoke detectors don’t like dust so you would need some kind of filter or a special unit.
Insurance companies don’t like wood shops due to fire hazards with sawdust and chemicals.
In many cases, heat-rise detectors are used instead of regular smoke detectors because of the dust issue. They are harder to come by, but available for most systems.

[Andy D Jones]

Your DC and TC separator will need to roll around to where you need them, because they likely won't suffer the duct run length to cover your shop from one location.

As others have mentioned, I would be looking at an upgrade for it, with more power and a good cyclone separator. Don's skimp on the filter either, although the air cleaner helps. And (also previously mentioned) plan a separate circuit for the DC, since it is almost always running when something else is running.

I'm not sure I like the idea of two circuits in the same outlet box. Any time you need to work in a box, you have to shut off both circuits. I think you will appreciate twice as many, alternating, smaller outlet boxes distributed around the walls. You can put two circuits' boxes side by side if you want.

If code allows, I could see putting both 120V circuits in the same box if they are on the same 240V breaker (opposite phases) which would also give you the option for a 240V outlet. They could both be run using one 12/3 cable. But a trip on either 120V outlet would trip the other too.

If the building is specified as a garage for code purposes, all 120V outlets will likely have to be GFCI (either daisy chained with the first outlet GFCI, or on a GFCI breaker). Some local codes differ on whether 240V outlets in a garage have to be GFCI (AFAIK, the only way to do that is with a GFCI 240V breaker). Just keep in mind that many GFCI's don't like VFDs, if you ever intend to run a 3 phase machine off a VFD.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Lisa Starr]

Your shop should be able to serve you well. I'm in a 24 x 24 that, though compact, works fine. I've found that lots of cabinet are one of the keys to storage that works. The other thing the really helps is I have "storage shelves" that hang about 18" below the ceiling in several places. They are fastened to the purlins along the wall and then the outer edge hangs from the ceiling truss via a threaded rod. I keep a 4' step ladder handy to access lots of lesser used items that live on those. That arrangement frees up a lot of valuable wall space for more important items.

I skipped the garage door to help maximize wall space and went with a double man door as that permits 6' of wall to serve as both my daily egress and materials/project egress.

[Jack Llewyllson]

Welcome to SMC!!! Sounds like it will be a nice space. Keep the lesser used tools mobile so you can herd them into a corner when not needed to free up space to work.

Given you cite some physical challenges consider embracing adjustable height work surfaces for hand tool use and assembly. It really saves the back big-time.

I'm not a fan of garage type doors myself, but I suspect that it may have been a requirement to get the permit as a "garage" rather than a workshop. A 16' door takes up a whole wall, too.

Hi, Jim! Thanks for the welcome.

We probably could have permitted it as a "big shed" with barn doors, but the mid-range plan is to convert our attached garage into living space. This is a real small castle, and stealing back the garage footprint will add 60% to the current floor plan.

Mobile bases will definitely be used liberally. Might still need room to screw a dinghy together before my fishing buddy and I are too broken to enjoy it. :)

[Jack Llewyllson]

The other thing the really helps is I have "storage shelves" that hang about 18" below the ceiling in several places. They are fastened to the purlins along the wall and then the outer edge hangs from the ceiling truss via a threaded rod.

I skipped the garage door to help maximize wall space and went with a double man door as that permits 6' of wall to serve as both my daily egress and materials/project egress.


I really like that high shelf idea and will likely employ it here -- thanks!

I left this part out of my planned reply to Jim, above: Because we plan on converting the current attached garage to living space, having the shed "around back" be serviceable as a garage adds value in the event we sell our house later... say, to a car hobbyist instead of a woodworker. ;)

[Jack Llewyllson]

I didn't see any accomodation for lumber, sheet goods, turning blanks storage. Do you have plans for that?
Will you at some point consider upgrading your DC to a bigger unit requiring 220? DCs like to be on their own circuit so there is no competition for juice with other tools.



I'm thinking of a swing-out rack for sheet goods. They're leaned up higgledy-piggledy against my lumber rack right now. Solid stock is headed upstairs to the loft, though I may regret that (not so good on ladders).

My DC is already 220VAC, and resides on a dedicated circuit for now. My reasoning behind having 2 ea. 240 circuits with multiple outlets each is to allow changing its location without it having to share a circuit.

One of these days, I hope to pour a little pad outside the shop, run a couple of dedicated circuits to a soundproofed "wart" shed on the outside of the shop, and size up both my dust collector and compressor. That will definitely be AFTER the inspector signs off (and after my budget has recuperated).

Thank you for these good reminders, Brian.

[Jack Llewyllson]

Sounds like a nice place. Welcome to the Creek!
Since you also like handtools, you should come visit our Neanderthal sub-forum on SMC.
Fred

Thank you!

When I dig out Uncle Fred's tools (sash fillister and other wooden screw-adjusted hand planes), I'll be sure to share some pictures there. I also have a nice 55 with only one cutter missing from the original holders. I've only used it a couple of times, but it's just cool to mess around with -- and those FENCES! Really a lovely chunk of Victorian excess.

[Jack Llewyllson]

Welcome to the "creek" . Have you considered a load calc. to get your heating/ cooling requirements ? Do you even need AC or heat ? Consider replacing the trash can separator with a Dust deputy ? Sorry , shop built cyclones are a favorite of mine . How about an Air cleaner also . You have some great gear there , I'd think about better DC , thats about it .

My 100A box is the biggest subpanel I can reasonably run, so that's the upper bound of available current. Planning to put a couple of boxes in and recycle a pair of King wall heaters that we have lying around. They're not the most efficient, but it's more economically efficient than buying new kit. :)

No need for AC. The insulation will be better than present shop, which stays tolerable. Also, we're in the Seattle area, which is pretty easy-going weather, and our house is on a heat pump, so I can always stumble inside and cool off at lunch time.

My dust collection "system" is a pretty patched-up mess. I'll definitely want to upgrade there, although I may miss my ol' steel can. It's handy for mulching!

(P.S. no worries on missing the air cleaner -- I threw a whole lot of info out at once)

[Jack Llewyllson]

I'm currently working out of my basement shop but if I ever get permission to build a larger shop, I would design it so that the dust collector and the air compressor were outside of the workshop. Those things make an annoying amount of noise.

You and I are thinking along the same lines, Robert. I'm already scheming for a bumpout to house those items...simultaneously with upgrading both.

First need a final inspection sign-off on the permitted footprint, though. :D

[Jack Llewyllson]

Sounds real good Jack!
For my fatigued self I have a large heavy sitting bench that is light enough to put on my assembly table.

Dang, that's a good idea! I've got one of those aluminum sit/stand platforms (pre-Harbor Freight, but same idea), and I never thought of using it that way.

I was 6'1" when I grew up, but I'm now barely 5'11" and "growing down." Still need some stuff to be at easy (belly to chest) height -- e.g. I really hate unplugging things from standard-height outlets now.

[Jack Llewyllson]

I would have a smoke detector in there linked to the ones inside.

That's an excellent thought. Been thinking about screwing a wifi repeater to the rafters, so I'll look into wifi-linked detectors. Thanks!

[Jack Llewyllson]

Your DC and TC separator will need to roll around to where you need them, because they likely won't suffer the duct run length to cover your shop from one location.

No worries. They do. :)


As others have mentioned, I would be looking at an upgrade for it, with more power and a good cyclone separator. Don's skimp on the filter either, although the air cleaner helps. And (also previously mentioned) plan a separate circuit for the DC, since it is almost always running when something else is running.

Upgrading dust collection and adding a large, two-stage compressor are at least a couple of years down the line, but my fuzzy plan is to put them both outside in a separate shed with soundproofing and a dedicated circuit for each. That's not in this year's budget, though.


I'm not sure I like the idea of two circuits in the same outlet box. Any time you need to work in a box, you have to shut off both circuits. I think you will appreciate twice as many, alternating, smaller outlet boxes distributed around the walls. You can put two circuits' boxes side by side if you want.

I've done this one before, and I have to admit I'm pretty married to the idea. Having two circuits per box makes it easy to plug a powerhog tool into one and a light or vacuum into the other, and I appreciate the "brain-free" visual cue of making the two duplexes different colors, e.g. grey or brown on one side and white on the other. Carlon now makes a box with 47 cubic inches volume, which should make this much easier than when I did it on 10/2 inside W/M 4000 -- my fingers are way too stiff to pull that off now!

Not too concerned with having to shut off both circuits to work on them, as I'll be shutting all the tool circuits off (with light switches) every time I leave the shop. The regular outlets will get slightly upgraded 20A switches, and the 240V circuits will get 30A switches. All will be mounted high enough to prevent toddler access (granddaughter, eh?).


If code allows, I could see putting both 120V circuits in the same box if they are on the same 240V breaker (opposite phases) which would also give you the option for a 240V outlet. They could both be run using one 12/3 cable. But a trip on either 120V outlet would trip the other too.

Plan is for the circuits to have multiple outlets, but no shared conductors. That level of mystery is wa-ay over my layman's head.


If the building is specified as a garage for code purposes, all 120V outlets will likely have to be GFCI (either daisy chained with the first outlet GFCI, or on a GFCI breaker). Some local codes differ on whether 240V outlets in a garage have to be GFCI (AFAIK, the only way to do that is with a GFCI 240V breaker). Just keep in mind that many GFCI's don't like VFDs, if you ever intend to run a 3 phase machine off a VFD.

Thanks for this, Andy -- I had to go look up "VFD." With absolutely zero machinist skills, I don't think I'm going to get into 3ph tools very soon. If I do, I'll, er... burn that bridge when I get to it.

It is a garage/shed/outdoor building and thus qualifies as a "damp area," so all my circuits (including the 240V) are going on GFCI breakers. That way, I don't have to hunt from box to box in order to figure out which GFCI feeds my suddenly dead outlet -- I'll just go directly to the breaker box and do all my cussing at a centralized location. :)

[Jim Becker]

One thing I forgot to ask...since it's configured as a "garage", are they permitting you to do a flat/level floor or are they requiring a sloped floor like in many jurisdictions for a "garage"?

[Mike Wilkins]

Wall hung tool cabinets with doors on the front and shelves inside will free up a lot of floor space. Hang your clamps on the wall for the same reason. Seldom used tools will be happy inside a rolling tool cabinet which are available from lots of sources, including Sam's Club (visit their web site for options).
Since you are going to have a concrete floor, consider mats to cover areas in front of tools such as the table saw, workbench, etc. Your feet/back/knees will thank you, as well as cushioning falling tools. Trust me, a freshly sharpened chisel always fall edge side down. Have fun.

[Drew Bernat]

+1 for putting everything on wheels. I've been working with a 1-car-garage equivalent for 14 years now, and being able to move stuff around has been tremendously helpful. Even stuff like a tablesaw moves pretty easily, and my planer/router table are stowed whenever I don't need them.

[Andy D Jones]

No worries. They do. :)

Plan is for the circuits to have multiple outlets, but no shared conductors. That level of mystery is wa-ay over my layman's head.



When using opposite phases of the hot side (as any 240V breaker does), then if used, the neutral return currents are also opposite phase, and cancel each other. Therefore, the total neutral current will actually be the DIFFERENCE between the two hot currents.

That's why you only need one neutral conductor for a combined 120/240V circuit. Using a single 12/3 cable (for 20A or less) keeps it simple. Black and Red are the two hots, and White is the neutral for both. If you decide you want to wire a 240V receptacle in the box, you connect the Black and Red wires to the receptacle. In the panel, Black and Red go to the two taps on the breaker, and white goes to the neutral bus bar (except to the neutral pigtail on a 240V GFCI breaker.) 240V GFCI breakers trip when the neutral current is not equal to the DIFFERENCE between the two hot currents.

If you use two separate 12/2 cables, you have two black wires to keep separate in each box. And since you would be using two GFCI breakers, each white has to be kept with its own black, or the GFCIs will trip every time.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Terry Therneau]

I framed my opening for a garage door, but installed a pair of carriage house doors for better climate control. That way it is really easy to change back to a garage door, me or the buyer, when I leave one day. (I'm in Minnesota so winter is a bigger issue.) Framing the header that way didn't add any real cost.
As far as 3 phase goes, if you have 240 outlets then a VFD is a piece of cake to wire. It essentially becomes the on/off switch for your machine: current on/off on the machine goes to the VFD (doorbell sized wire) and the motor goes directly to 3 other connectors on the VFD (bigger wire). No machinist degree needed. Sometimes a 3 phase machine is what you end up with, if you buy used -- I have a 3 phase Felder slider for that reason. Considering them just leaves more options; for someone who isn't a pro I don't prefer one over the other.


Terry T.

[Jack Llewyllson]

One thing I forgot to ask...since it's configured as a "garage", are they permitting you to do a flat/level floor or are they requiring a sloped floor like in many jurisdictions for a "garage"?

Sorry; I missed this earlier.

The primary slab is flat and finished smooth, with expansion joints criss-crossing the center. The "driveway," which actually only extends six feet from the bay door, is sloped away from the building and broom-finished.

We passed the foundation inspection, so I expect the county either approves or doesn't care. ;)

Cheers,

Jack

[Jack Llewyllson]

I framed my opening for a garage door, but installed a pair of carriage house doors for better climate control. That way it is really easy to change back to a garage door, me or the buyer, when I leave one day. (I'm in Minnesota so winter is a bigger issue.) Framing the header that way didn't add any real cost.

This is a grand idea. Sadly, with the size of our property at <0.25 acre and a deck with rockery hanging off the back of the house, there isn't swing space for carriage doors out front without blocking yard passage. I thought about sliding barn-style doors, but they won't open well given the shop's proximity to a five-foot setback. The hi-lift is "easier than thinking," affordable, pretty secure, and should bring in afternoon light through a row of windows. We're in a pretty mild climate, but if it starts to freeze my teeth off in the winter I'll consider tacking some insulation (maybe blue foam?) to the inside of the door.

Probably my biggest thermal concern should be adding a ceiling to the truss bottoms, and insulating over that.



As far as 3 phase goes, if you have 240 outlets then a VFD is a piece of cake to wire. It essentially becomes the on/off switch for your machine: current on/off on the machine goes to the VFD (doorbell sized wire) and the motor goes directly to 3 other connectors on the VFD (bigger wire). No machinist degree needed. Sometimes a 3 phase machine is what you end up with, if you buy used -- I have a 3 phase Felder slider for that reason. Considering them just leaves more options; for someone who isn't a pro I don't prefer one over the other.


Ah, Felder... the supermodel of shop brands. I fell into a jealous reverie and missed everything after that. :)

Cheers,

Jack

[Larry Frank]

I would run Ethernet and cable to the shop and check for cell signal in the shop. I would look at smoke detectors or heat detectors and any security you may need. It is easy to run wires for these things when you are building.

My wife REQUIRES that I have my cell phone with me in the shop.

[John C Bush]

Hi Jack,
Congrats on the new shop!! I live just north of you--between Shoreline and Edmonds. I built my shop ~~20 yrs ago and couldn't imagine life without it. If interested in taking a look at how my shop has evolved PM me and we can plan a tour. I have made all the mistakes so you won't have too. John Bush.

[Jack Llewyllson]

Wall hung tool cabinets with doors on the front and shelves inside will free up a lot of floor space. Hang your clamps on the wall for the same reason. Seldom used tools will be happy inside a rolling tool cabinet which are available from lots of sources, including Sam's Club (visit their web site for options).
Since you are going to have a concrete floor, consider mats to cover areas in front of tools such as the table saw, workbench, etc. Your feet/back/knees will thank you, as well as cushioning falling tools. Trust me, a freshly sharpened chisel always fall edge side down. Have fun.

These are all solid ideas, Mike. I'll have to recreate some of my hanging solutions when I start to move gear in -- and some of them will need to be improved!

Couple of 60s-era painted kitchen cabinets and steel auto shop cabinets are coming along, just for sentimentality's sake, and I'll likely build two or more large wall cabinets to get more stuff off the floor. Quite a lot of stuff currently rattles around in a rollaway from Costco (gift from Dad about 20 years ago); I also use a plywood-topped cheapie Craftsman rolling lower cabinet as my outfeed. It stores table saw accessories, router bits, and Kreg pocket hole stuff.

My floor treatment is either a pretty good idea or a regrettable expenditure, and so far I'm leaning toward the latter. Pretty Wife and I picked up a metric ton (almost precisely) of dense, rubber horse stall mats made from shredded tires. It was smelled like a tire shop for a couple of weeks, but they aired out quite a bit given the lack of windows and doors. I drop things (including chisels and planes) a lot more than I used to, and also don't tolerate standing on concrete for long periods, so my fingers are crossed that this is my long-term solution. It's dense enough to roll machinery on (tested), and gives way enough to give my back a little relief.

[Jim Dwight]

My shop garage is 14x24 - much smaller than your shop. It also has a 8 foot ceiling. There is a shelf over the man door that is handy for seldom used things. My PCS sits about in the middle with a 3x7 foot assembly/outfeed/bench/tool storage table behind it. I use that table for cutting with my track saw too. My benchtop planner and hollow chisel mortiser are on a flip cart. The hollow chisel will go away since I do not use it after getting a domino. The planner and jointer (Inca) are near the 9 foot garage door and get rolled outside for longer boards. A long flexible hose connects them to my HF "2hp" DC that sucks through a super dust deputy and discharges outside. I have a drop for my bandsaw, table saw, CMS, and this long hose that serves several tools (including router table) and floor vacuum. The hose is supposed to reach 28 feet so I can get to everything in the shop but it is pretty stretched at some points.

One space saving idea I used in this shop is carried over from the last (which was similar in size). I dedicated my one 24 foot wall with no windows to a cutting station for my CMS and RAS (side by side) with flip stops. The cabinet height is 30 inches and I put blocks under the tools to get them to my desired 38 inch height (sawstop and accessory table are at this height too). There are drawers for smaller tools under and hanging storage for frequently used tools above. There is a lumber rack above that.

The accessory table is also a dual top Paulk type. It and the long wall of cabinets are two good space saving ideas IMHO. I have to be careful about adding tools in a shop this small but I build large cabinets and beds in it. Fortunately I can spill over into the car garage next door for finishing and assembly. But I could do everything in my little shop if I had to (biggest issue would be getting things out by myself).

Congrats on your shop, it sounds very nice.

[Jim Becker]

Jack, I suspect you will ultimately be happy with the stall matts. Enough give to add to standing comfort but sturdy and stiff enough to accomodate things that roll. Easy to clean, too.

[Jack Llewyllson]

Hi Jack,
Congrats on the new shop!! I live just north of you--between Shoreline and Edmonds. I built my shop ~~20 yrs ago and couldn't imagine life without it.

Thanks! It won't be my first shop, but definitely it's definitely the first one not to be repurposed from another space.


If interested in taking a look at how my shop has evolved PM me and we can plan a tour. I have made all the mistakes so you won't have too. John Bush.

I would like that. Will ping you.

Cheers,

Jack