Hand Plane - First time buying

[Victor Price Jr]

Hi Everyone, this is my first post and hopefully I can get some advice. I've primarily been woodworker who uses machines, but I'm find that I need more options. I'm planning on buying a few hand planes in the near future, and I'd like some opinions. I like to buy a tool once, and keep it, so I don't mind spending a little more up front from a quality tool. I already know the opinions will all be varied and informative, so please give me what you got.

I'm planning on having a total of 4 planes, some of which I haven't decided on, some I have. The one's I haven't are the one's I need help with.

#1 Block plane - I keep going round and round over this one. I'm stuck between the Veritas DX60 and the Lie-Neilsen 60 1/2 (can't make a decision on the standard or rabbit). I'm really hoping users who have these tools or have both, can give me some feedback regarding: adjustable mouth, blade adjustment, shape for medium sized hands, etc.

#2 Smoothing plane - Pretty sure I'm going with the LN 4 1/2 on this. (This will likely be the last of the 4 planes, that I buy)

#3 Jack plane - Pretty sure i'm going with the LN 5 1/2 here as well. This will likely be the second plane I buy. Block plane being first.

#4 Jointer plane - kind of at a loss on this one. The LN and the WoodRiver both look good with similar features, do not like the looks of the veritas' rounded shapes on the heel, but that's just a style choice. In regards to weight, comfort for hand size, etc.

I've been reading reviews, watching youtube non-stop, trying to get the best feel, but would really like some personal feedback.

Sorry for the long rant, but I appreciate any information or opinion you guys can provide.

[ken hatch]

Hi Everyone, this is my first post and hopefully I can get some advice. I've primarily been woodworker who uses machines, but I'm find that I need more options. I'm planning on buying a few hand planes in the near future, and I'd like some opinions. I like to buy a tool once, and keep it, so I don't mind spending a little more up front from a quality tool. I already know the opinions will all be varied and informative, so please give me what you got.

I'm planning on having a total of 4 planes, some of which I haven't decided on, some I have. The one's I haven't are the one's I need help with.

#1 Block plane - I keep going round and round over this one. I'm stuck between the Veritas DX60 and the Lie-Neilsen 60 1/2 (can't make a decision on the standard or rabbit). I'm really hoping users who have these tools or have both, can give me some feedback regarding: adjustable mouth, blade adjustment, shape for medium sized hands, etc.

#2 Smoothing plane - Pretty sure I'm going with the LN 4 1/2 on this. (This will likely be the last of the 4 planes, that I buy)

#3 Jack plane - Pretty sure i'm going with the LN 5 1/2 here as well. This will likely be the second plane I buy. Block plane being first.

#4 Jointer plane - kind of at a loss on this one. The LN and the WoodRiver both look good with similar features, do not like the looks of the veritas' rounded shapes on the heel, but that's just a style choice. In regards to weight, comfort for hand size, etc.

I've been reading reviews, watching youtube non-stop, trying to get the best feel, but would really like some personal feedback.

Sorry for the long rant, but I appreciate any information or opinion you guys can provide.

Victor,

If you are confused now, wait for this thread to run for a few days :p.

I'll still add a couple of thoughts: A jack plane is a rough plane, no need to spend for the precision of a LN or LV, a wood stock or old Stanley is better. Same with the jointer, the LN or Woodriver are both way too heavy to use for any length of time, a old Stanley or wood stock is a better jointer. For a smoothing plane the LN or LV is a good pick but a 4 1/2 is usually too big for most jobs.

ken

[Clifford McGuire]

I'll take a shot at #1 & #2.

I have a LN 60 1/2 rabbet and a nicely restored Stanley 220 as my go-to block planes. I am really glad I got the rabbet one. I'm always using it to clean up rabbets and other groves. I keep it on my workbench and use it 90% of the time. Instead of the Stanley 220, I wish I had a smaller, apron sized plane. I see a 102/103 in my future.

I bought the LN 4 Bronze for my smoother. It's 4.5 lbs and I think the LN 4 1/2 is a pound heavier. Make sure that's OK. I use it quite a bit and I'm glad I didn't get anything heavier. Your mileage may vary.

[David Bassett]

What do you work on? I'm confused by the -1/2 selection. The big complaint (& pretty much only) complaint about L-N planes is the weight vs vintage Stanleys and yet you've selected the historically less popular super-sized versions. Unless your pieces are exceptionally large you may want to rethink that...

[Victor Price Jr]

Victor,

If you are confused now, wait for this thread to run for a few days :p.

I'll still add a couple of thoughts: A jack plane is a rough plane, no need to spend for the precision of a LN or LV, a wood stock or old Stanley is better. Same with the jointer, the LN or Woodriver are both way too heavy to use for any length of time, a old Stanley or wood stock is a better jointer. For a smoothing plane the LN or LV is a good pick but a 4 1/2 is usually too big for most jobs.

ken
Thanks Ken,
I've been searching Ebay, Craigslist, etc for handplanes, but I can't seem to find a place where I can pick up a solid plane (doesn't have to be pretty, I can clean it up), that's not the same cost as a new LV or LN. Are there places to look for people selling older planes that I might be able to pick some up at a decent cost? I'm in Eastern Central Florida, and the closest woodworking store is 2 hours away (Rockler and WoodCraft). I try to hit estate sales, but most of what I find around here are old machining tools, not woodworking.

Thank you for the feedback.

[Mike Henderson]

An antique low angle block plane with a Lee Valley PM-V11 blade will last you forever. I like the Stanley knuckle joint 65 (plenty available on eBay). But which ever way you go, get a low angle block plane.

I have a Stanley type 11 4 1/2 corrugated bottom plane with a modern iron and chip breaker that I'll sell you. PM me if interested.

Mike

[Victor Price Jr]

What do you work on? I'm confused by the -1/2 selection. The big complaint (& pretty much only) complaint about L-N planes is the weight vs vintage Stanleys and yet you've selected the historically less popular super-sized versions. Unless your pieces are exceptionally large you may want to rethink that...

I guess the reason for the 1/2 would be the wider blade. I'm currently working on some living room furniture my wife wants, and my machine jointer is 6 inches. I know there are other ways of flatten boards, but I'd like to be able to prep the material to the point that it requires little/no sanding. From my reading and youtube, the 5 1/2 seemed to be a popular size for doing just about everything (getting several blades for different purposes). Unfortunately, I'm not in a location where I can go somewhere and pick up (feel and test) any since no one in my area offers woodworking tools. So my mind is definitely NOT made up by any means, so if I get the opportunity to actually handle different sized planes, I may change my mind. Thanks for the info.

[Tony Wilkins]

I guess the reason for the 1/2 would be the wider blade. I'm currently working on some living room furniture my wife wants, and my machine jointer is 6 inches. I know there are other ways of flatten boards, but I'd like to be able to prep the material to the point that it requires little/no sanding. From my reading and youtube, the 5 1/2 seemed to be a popular size for doing just about everything (getting several blades for different purposes). Unfortunately, I'm not in a location where I can go somewhere and pick up (feel and test) any since no one in my area offers woodworking tools. So my mind is definitely NOT made up by any means, so if I get the opportunity to actually handle different sized planes, I may change my mind. Thanks for the info.

how much are you going to process rough lumber using just planes? If you are going to use it for boards wider than 6” then I’d go for an older Stanley 5, 4, or even 5 1/4 because you will appreciate the lesser weight. The 5 1/2 does make a good super smoother. David Charlesworth uses one for that, ala the Brit panel plane of old. I’m not sure I’d want to process a whole board from rough with one though.

where are you located? Many members would be willing to let you try there planes if you’re close enough to visit their shop.

[Victor Price Jr]

An antique low angle block plane with a Lee Valley PM-V11 blade will last you forever. I like the Stanley knuckle joint 65 (plenty available on eBay). But which ever way you go, get a low angle block plane.

I have a Stanley type 11 4 1/2 corrugated bottom plane with a modern iron and chip breaker that I'll sell you. PM me if interested.

Mike

Hi Mike, I'm new to the site in regards to having an account, been a lurker for a while. I can't seem to figure out how to PM you, but I would be interested in seeing the plane.

[Matt Lau]

I think you're on the right path with this---I see it as akin to kitchen knives: paring, chef, slicer/bread knife.
Block, Smoothing, Jointer/Try plane

Block plane: anything will work. These are easy to lap flat. Just stick a Hock or LV blade in there. My first one was some cheap grizzle plane, and worked fine.
Now, my favorite is a LV apron plane or a Mujingfang palm plane.
Smoothing: a nicely fettled Stanley is fine, but a Lee Valley or Lie Nielson (and probably wood river) would be better.
You absolutely want a plane with a sole in good condition. As a Lee Valley fan, I appreciate their attention to detail.
Jointer/Try plane: get a new one. Get a good one (Lee Valley, Lie Nielson, maybe Wood River), unless you're friends with a Galoot that likes to fettle tools.
When the steel warps/twists/wears it can be a nightmare to lap.
I bought a LV custom jointer plane (flat sides, Bevel down) used off ebay, and it's a dream to use.

Jack plane--might want to try a wooden plane. For heavy "jack plane" work, it can get very tiring with a heavy plane.
That being said, I have LV low angle Jack that is mainly used for jointing ukulele/guitar soundboards.

[David Eisenhauer]

Victor - Will you be using the planes to mostly work over timber that has been machine joined and planed before hand planing? Or do you anticipate working on rough timber from the get go? If you are going to be working on rough stuff, I think you should consider the standard #4 and #5 planes for your smoother and jack planes. The wider the iron, the harder it is to push through the wood. Any additional weight gained by using larger planes does detract from the experience when working more from scratch than pre-machined wood. I have moved mostly to wooden planes and don't follow the "I like a heavy plane to plow through the work" crowd. If it works for them, I am glad they are having fun, but extra weight on a plane does not improve my planing. I believe that machine guys tend to think of the 4-1/2 and 5-1/2 sizes being able to provide a little more width per pass (15" planer instead of a 12" planer, 8" joiner instead of a 6") and don't realize that it does not translate the same when considering hand planing. Lots and lots of smoothing is done with a #3 and #4 sized planes (wood or iron), with the #4-1/2 shining more on large panels or table top sized pieces. Those large surfaces actually only comprise a lesser portion of the total planing per projecct. I believe that pre-machine type woodworkers will benefit most from a #3 or #4 double iron plane as their first purchase and use that to learn how to use a hand plane and what a hand plane does and does not do. From that point, they should have a better handle on what to get next.

[Victor Price Jr]

how much are you going to process rough lumber using just planes? If you are going to use it for boards wider than 6” then I’d go for an older Stanley 5, 4, or even 5 1/4 because you will appreciate the lesser weight. The 5 1/2 does make a good super smoother. David Charlesworth uses one for that, ala the Brit panel plane of old. I’m not sure I’d want to process a whole board from rough with one though.

where are you located? Many members would be willing to let you try there planes if you’re close enough to visit their shop.

Hi Tony, I live in Brevard County, Florida (where the rockets launch from). I've got a jointer and a planer, so I wouldn't be fully processing whole boards, but I've got a small shop, so the less I have to move and adjust equipment around the better. I'd rather put that time in to using a hand tool to do the same job, without all the hassle.

[Victor Price Jr]

I'll take a shot at #1 & #2.

I have a LN 60 1/2 rabbet and a nicely restored Stanley 220 as my go-to block planes. I am really glad I got the rabbet one. I'm always using it to clean up rabbets and other groves. I keep it on my workbench and use it 90% of the time. Instead of the Stanley 220, I wish I had a smaller, apron sized plane. I see a 102/103 in my future.

I bought the LN 4 Bronze for my smoother. It's 4.5 lbs and I think the LN 4 1/2 is a pound heavier. Make sure that's OK. I use it quite a bit and I'm glad I didn't get anything heavier. Your mileage may vary.

The LN 60 1/2 is definitely the one I've been eyeballing. But I'm having a hard time deciding between having the adjustable mouth and the rabbiting capability.

[Mike Henderson]

Hi Mike, I'm new to the site in regards to having an account, been a lurker for a while. I can't seem to figure out how to PM you, but I would be interested in seeing the plane.

Oops, you need to be a contributor to access the private mail system. It's only $6 a year. Surely you'll get that much information value.

Mike

[Victor Price Jr]

Victor - Will you be using the planes to mostly work over timber that has been machine joined and planed before hand planing? Or do you anticipate working on rough timber from the get go? If you are going to be working on rough stuff, I think you should consider the standard #4 and #5 planes for your smoother and jack planes. The wider the iron, the harder it is to push through the wood. Any additional weight gained by using larger planes does detract from the experience when working more from scratch than pre-machined wood. I have moved mostly to wooden planes and don't follow the "I like a heavy plane to plow through the work" crowd. If it works for them, I am glad they are having fun, but extra weight on a plane does not improve my planing. I believe that machine guys tend to think of the 4-1/2 and 5-1/2 sizes being able to provide a little more width per pass (15" planer instead of a 12" planer, 8" joiner instead of a 6") and don't realize that it does not translate the same when considering hand planing. Lots and lots of smoothing is done with a #3 and #4 sized planes (wood or iron), with the #4-1/2 shining more on large panels or table top sized pieces. Those large surfaces actually only comprise a lesser portion of the total planing per projecct. I believe that pre-machine type woodworkers will benefit most from a #3 or #4 double iron plane as their first purchase and use that to learn how to use a hand plane and what a hand plane does and does not do. From that point, they should have a better handle on what to get next.

Hi David,
I think you asked the perfect question, since I didn't explain this. A majority of my work will be done on Table saw, Jointer, Planer. I'm looking to use hand planes to extend my ability with the jointer, and probably 90% of what I will be doing is cleanup and assembly prep on the work pieces.

[Tony Wilkins]

Hi Tony, I live in Brevard County, Florida (where the rockets launch from). I've got a jointer and a planer, so I wouldn't be fully processing whole boards, but I've got a small shop, so the less I have to move and adjust equipment around the better. I'd rather put that time in to using a hand tool to do the same job, without all the hassle.

not near me. I’d try a #5 size Stanley or similar. Look at timetestedtools.net. Dan Williol was/is a member here runs the site and sells collectible tools but also a lot of users. I’d see if yo7 like the original blade before going and getting a replacement,

[Tony Wilkins]

The rabbit block plane is nice but a specialty item. If you’re looking for a block plane, get just a block first.

[Victor Price Jr]

Done, I'll PM you in a minute.

[Andrew Seemann]

Yes, you will get a lot of opinions, and likely this thread will descend into the same arguments between the same woodworkers over the same things and quoting the same "experts" and internet "gurus"

Based on your list, I can almost guess the some of the videos you have watched. I would caution that there are many ways of doing things and many preferences. I would also say that despite the hype, many acclaimed experts, including ones in glossy magazines, are not that much better than many "unfamous" woodworkers, they just are better at self promotion (I don't include myself in either category, either being that good, or good at self promotion. Though I did have one experience examining a piece of work from a "famous" woodworker, and was pleased to see that his tear out looked exactly like my tear out:) Schadenfreunde at its best.)

From the perspective of someone who has used planes for 30 odd years, but in combination with power tool woodworking, and who has no desire to work like it is 1699, I would say your list of types is pretty standard for a good compliment of planes. If I was set out into the woods with only 4 planes, a jack, smoother, block, and jointer would be my preference, and likely in that order.

If I didn't have to hand dimension all of my wood, like if I still had a shop and power tools, I would get a block plane first, then a smoother, then a jack, and then a jointer. Especially if I did not have much experience with planes. Not only does this list go from cheapest to most expensive, it also goes in order of skill and utility for someone who still has a complement of power toods.

Nearly every woodworker, regardless of power tool collection, has a block plane. They are useful for so many things, and easy to learn to sharpen and set up. I prefer a standard angle 9 1/2 style to a low angle 60 type, but that is just me. It probably doesn't matter what kind of block plane you get, because you will likely buy more than one; they are that useful.

Next in utility is probably a smoothing plane. It is also a good plane to cut your teeth on learning how to handle a bench plane. They aren't too big and you just need to worry about smoothing, not flattening or keeping an edge 90, those skills are easier to learn once you get the hang of using a plane and sharpening. Myself, I am not a big fan of modern smoothers. When hand tools became popular a while back and companies started making them again, there was this idea that heavier was better, to the point where some planes are like dragging a boat anchor across a piece off wood. Historically planes tended to be on the light side, no one really wants to drag an extra pound of cast iron (and no one ever wanted to drag bronze around) all day long. I much prefer a #4 to a #4 1/2 for most smoothing. It is lighter and easier to use. Also, if you had any questions, there is no issue with handle size. I have hands like a linebacker and have no problems using a #4 or a #3. I prefer a standard Baileys #4 from around WWII to anything currently made, but I have a lot of experience tuning up old planes.

I would agree with Ken on the jack plane; a used #5 is much, much less expensive and more than adequate for anything you would ever use a jack plane for. And they don't weigh as much as new ones. I would also say that the 5 1/2 is only popular with some modern woodworkers. It never had a big historical following. For what a jack plane is traditionally used for, the standard #5 works better. The 5 1/2 became popular as an all around plane, no idea why though; it is too long for smoothing, too heavy for rough flattening, and too short for jointing. I guess it does all of them well enough for some people. I would keep your eye out for a decent used jack plane or two. They are great to learn how to fiddle with planes with, because they are cheap, and no big deal if you mess one up.

The jointer would be the last plane I would worry about picking up. There are so many ways to joint wood without one if you have power tools, and they are really expensive for a hand plane. You can buy a used 6" jointer for the cost of a LN #7. They are handy, but they take a lot of skill to master. By the time you get to that point, you will have a much better idea what you are looking for.

[David Eisenhauer]

Victor, I have a LN standard BU block plane with an adjustable mouth. The only time I adjust the mouth is to re open it up after it slowly closes down of it's own accord. Mine is the very popular non-rabbeted model (don't remember the number) and it works very well as a general use block plane. However, If I can use a smoother to do the work, I will use it instead of the block plane. My block plane use is definitely used mostly when physical access does not allow a #3 sized plane to be used. I find that a block plane does indeed perform the smoothing tasks very well, but is just not as comfortable to hold as a tote-type or coffin shaped plane. As to finding a smother and jack plane, the large auction web site works. I would be tempted to spend more for the larger joiner or try plane because I feel like those do need to closer to optimal condition to produce the tighter work required.

[steven c newman]

Maybe a bit of "Show & Tell....before this devolves into the usual "I have (insert brand name) and LOVE it!" sort of thing.
Jointer: Depends on the LENGTH of the board...have used a #3 up to old Heft & Hubris No.8...mainstay?
438911
A no. 7c..22" long. 2-3/5" wide iron...

Jack plane: Because it is a "Jack" of all trades. Can be a #5-1/4 ( 11" long, 1-3/4" wide iron) up to the Jumbo Jack...I mainly use just a plain old jack..
438912
14" long, 2" wide iron...I have a jack with a cambered iron, another with the straight edge...different jobs, different set up. Some here will try to sell you one of these..
438913
This is the first time in almost a year that this has even seen a shaving...

Ok..smoothers? Can be a #3 size, or a #4 size...I use both, depending on what size area I want to smooth out...a #3 can go places that the larger #4 can't..
438914
No. 9 ( size #4)with a 2" wide iron, 9-10" long.
Finally..block plane(s)...can be a low angle, adjustable mouth...
438915
Or the so-called "Standard Angle" with an adjustable mouth and a screw style adjuster..
438916
Some block plane need a hammer to adjust..save those for peeling paint....
438917
These two do a decent job on wood. A #60-1/2, and a Marsh 9-1/2....

I do have a couple #5-1/2 planes...I use those more as a very short jointer, or to get a glued up panel flat. I view a #4-1/2 as mainly a FAT, oversized, overhyped smooth plane-shaped object.

Ok, back to a word from our sponsors....carry on.

[David Bassett]

The LN 60 1/2 is definitely the one I've been eyeballing. But I'm having a hard time deciding between having the adjustable mouth and the rabbiting capability.

No personal experience with the rabbet block plane. But I remember being intrigued by it's (supposed / alleged) utility. I decided against it after talking to a L-N guy at one of their road shows. His take was it was more "master-of-none" and less "jack-of-all-trades". He says it's the only L-N plane he never uses, though he might consider it if he was to be limited to only a single plane. His take is you want a real rabbet plane for rabbeting and a real block plane for everything else. His biggest complaint about the rabbet block plane was cutting yourself on the exposed blade corners when you grab it in your palm and wrap your fingers around the sides (as you usually do with a block plane.)

Of course, YMMV.

BTW- I find myself grabbing slightly smaller block planes, e.g. LV apron plane, because they're more comfortable for me for a quick trim here and there, despite their lack of "features" (like adjustable mouth.) I'm no "shining light" you should be emulating, but there is a lot of personal preference about how planes feel. It's hard, especially with so much closed right now, but if you get to a show, a class, or a club where you can actually use some of these options and get a feel for the differences it would make your choice a lot easier.

Barring that, as I "think aloud", your best bet might be getting a premium smoother and using it for everything until you get a feel for likes & dislikes. Then, with a point of reference, you can fill out your collection. (Premium because there are fewer me or the plane issues. Smoother because it is the least able to tolerate the slop you'd have in e..g a old beat Jack plane.)

[Tony Wilkins]

I will defer to Andrew on a shop with power tools as I don’t use them — hello 1699. I did want to somewhat explain the choice of the 5 1/2. I started to when I said it is similar to the British panel plane. That form was used, as I understand it, was used as a ‘super smoother’. It would do enough flattening to fine tune that aspect of the board and when set up to take a thou shaving would smooth at the same time. David Charlesworth, who uses a 5 1/2 a lot, shows using it in that way. If you most buy planed boards from your favorite hardwood supplier, then that method works well. Alan Peters, the late British woodworker, used a #7 in much the same way as I understand.

I suggested a #5 since you seemed to indicate you were working on larger furniture types. A second blade and you could rough and smooth with the same plane. However, the same could be done with a #4 (see Paul Sellers). I think a block plane is much more useful in a power shop than in a hand but many devout handtool folks certainly use them.

[Andrew Seemann]

Actually, I tend to use my #6 in that panel smoothing role. Since I have a #7 and #8 for jointing, and multiple #5s, my great grandfather's #6 got to be a panel plane. I think he used it more as a light jointer he could carry in a tool box, based on the the blade though.

My block planes get used mostly for chamfering. My favorite one for chamfering is actually one with a messed up bed that causes the blade to be off. The result is that one side protrudes more than the other, so I can go from a narrow to wide shaving just by moving from one side of the blade to the other.

[ken hatch]

Thanks Ken,
I've been searching Ebay, Craigslist, etc for handplanes, but I can't seem to find a place where I can pick up a solid plane (doesn't have to be pretty, I can clean it up), that's not the same cost as a new LV or LN. Are there places to look for people selling older planes that I might be able to pick some up at a decent cost? I'm in Eastern Central Florida, and the closest woodworking store is 2 hours away (Rockler and WoodCraft). I try to hit estate sales, but most of what I find around here are old machining tools, not woodworking.

Thank you for the feedback.

Victor,

Try "Time Tested Tools" He sells good user planes.

ken

[Kyle Iwamoto]

My $0.02 is along most of the info you got so far. The jointer should be the last one. Watch Craigs list. Not to gloat, but I found 2 Stanley #8 jointers for $25 each. They come up every once in a while. Not often, but they do pop up. If they do, run and grab it. The first one I got the guy says I have someone offering less $ tomorrow, so if you come today, you can have it. Hey Boss, I'm taking some time off.......
I just got a Stanley 5-1/2 back together. Jacks come up all the time on CL. My favorite Jack is actually an old (big sigh) Craftsman for some odd reason. Can't explain that one. I put a $25 dollar limit on CL plane purchases. You never know what you're getting. And some folks want way too much money if they refurb them. They may or may not know what they doing. Yes, I'd spend more on a jointer if it came up.....

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Hi Everyone, this is my first post and hopefully I can get some advice. I've primarily been woodworker who uses machines, but I'm find that I need more options. I'm planning on buying a few hand planes in the near future, and I'd like some opinions.

If you have little experience with hand planes, is there any possibility that there is some way that you can test some planes first?

For example, if you live anywhere near the middle of Ohio, I can arrange for you to test some different types of planes.

With your list of planes, you could spend a bunch of money, especially if you are purchasing high end planes. The advantage with the high end planes is that (1) you can spend much less time tuning them up and (2) they are generally much easier to adjust.

If you will be buying a plane, you might want to start with one or two to see how things to be working. There is a learning curve for sure. I have never used any of the "1/2" planes, they are wider and heavier.

[Victor Price Jr]

So, I'm seeing a lot of Stanley "Type XX". I know this relates to the years they were made, but are any more desirable than others? I know I prefer the larger brass threaded blade adjustment screw, but what models will work best? What's the difference between flat and corrugated bottoms?

[Tony Wilkins]

So, I'm seeing a lot of Stanley "Type XX". I know this relates to the years they were made, but are any more desirable than others? I know I prefer the larger brass threaded blade adjustment screw, but what models will work best? What's the difference between flat and corrugated bottoms?
I’m not sure that corrugated bottoms do much but others may have a different and more informed opinion. I’ve read it’s not worth looking one way or another.

The later ones have the larger adjuster. I think you’re ok with any before they went to plastic handles in the late 1960’s (?) and 70’s. As a user, the post war ones work just fine. Rex Krueger has a video on YouTube you might find informative.

[David Bassett]

So, I'm seeing a lot of Stanley "Type XX". I know this relates to the years they were made, but are any more desirable than others? I know I prefer the larger brass threaded blade adjustment screw, but what models will work best? What's the difference between flat and corrugated bottoms?

One, of many, resource is:

Hyperkitten's Stanley Page (https://hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/)

it has links to other pages too.


I think for pre-WW2 Stanley's condition affects how they work more than specific vintage. Small details changed as they evolved, so some prefer certain periods over others. As far as corrugated or not it seems it's mostly a gimmick and other concerns, condition or favorite feature, are more important.

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Victor and welcome to the Creek.

Here is an old post that may provide more information on hand planes > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148076

One thought on the #4-1/2, #5-1/2 and #7 assortment is they all use the same size blade. (The Stanley/Bailey #5-1/2 used a 2-1/4" blade before 1939.)

As far as historical use it is easy to see which were more used by how many are offered on ebay. The #4 and #5 planes are so common because they were in every woodworker's, carpenter's and homeowner's tool kit.

If one is a heftier person or has large hands the larger sizes might be ideal. In such a case if one wasn't concerned about keeping blade sizes the same a #8 might also be preferred. My #6 and #8 are used more than my #5-1/2 or my #7.

An adjustable mouth on a block plane is very useful if one is smoothing a convex curve, such as on the corner of a table. It prevents the blade from taking a big bite. A low angle block plane is hard to beat when smoothing end grain or chamfering an edge across the end of a piece.

You will likely find the more experienced one becomes with hand planes, the less there is a need or use for sandpaper.

Rabbet planes can be very useful for their intended purpose. They do not do well as a substitute for a regular bench plane or block plane.

If you need a rabbet plane for clean up on table saw cut rabbets you may find a shoulder plane or other rabbet planes a better choice.

jtk

[Andrew Seemann]

Type tends to refer to years they were made and features like how the castings look. Some people are into the types of their planes and some are not. It matters most when you are trying to find parts for a particular plane.

At some point Stanley and other companies planes' quality went to h#ll. Different people peg the time differently, but generally you hear WWII or some time to the 1950s or even early 1960s. I have some planes from the late '40s, early '50s that are favorites, so it isn't an exact date, like September 2, 1945. If you are looking at used, condition often matters more than the specific type. A good type 19 is probably a better bet than a beat up type 9. Myself, I am not into types. I just want a plane that works.

New planes don't have type numbers in the way that old planes do.

[lowell holmes]

Buy one plane, use it for a while and you will know what to do. You might look on the auction site and see if you can buy a set of Bed Rock planes. I did and quit shopping for planes.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I’m not sure that corrugated bottoms do much but others may have a different and more informed opinion. I’ve read it’s not worth looking one way or another.

I was told that a corrugated bottom should have less friction. I never noticed a difference myself, but that was what I was told. On the other hand, if you want to plane the edge of a board, so the surface is say 1" or less wide, I have heard complaints with corrugated on a narrow surface. For that reason alone, I would take one that was not corrugated if all other things were equal.

[glenn bradley]

I am a hybrid woodworker so I am already where you are heading. I see from your opening post that you are already prepared for the onslaught and variety of responses. This is a good thing. Here's my take if I were to go back and do it again. I can barely squeeze into a medium Wells Lamont style work glove and a large is what I wear just to give you an idea of hand size:

#1 Block plane - Varitas Apron Plane. I have other block planes, all very good ones. The Apron Plane is my most used and the one I would keep if I could only have one. I find the DX-60 awkward to hold; right shape, wrong size.

#2 Smoothing plane - I have a couple of No 4's (actually Millers Falls No 9's with PM-v11 iron / cap sets) , a Veritas BU smoother and a Veritas Low Angle Smooth Plane. If I could only keep one it would be the No 4. This is influenced by my owning a Veritas LAJ as mentioned in the next section. If I need a steep or shallow angle smoother I just pop the appropriate iron in the LAJ. YMMV.

#3 Jack plane - Veritas Low Angle Jack. I love this plane. It smooths, it joints, it shoots. My affinity for this plane is akin to a Festool user choosing their router; there is a herd-benefit that may not be present if used alone. My LAJ, my BU Smoother and my BU Jointer all take the same iron size. I have a half a dozen that I exchange between them making all of them multifaceted in their use.

#4 Jointer plane - I run a Veritas BU jointer for the reasons stated above. If I didn't have the herd-benefit of swapping irons . . . I would still get the Veritas BU Jointer. The Norris style adjuster, the set screws, the stop for the adjustable throat; all these combine to make taking the iron out for a quick touch up and then going right back to work effortless. These features also allow me to swap iron angles to the task with minimal adjustment. *** not a determining factor *** There are also a selection of add-ons (fence, variable angle fence, fast adjusters, different totes and knobs) for the BU Jointer that may help the user when starting out and beyond.

IHMO, the Woodriver planes have priced themselves so close to Veritas or Lei Nielsen that I wonder why one wouldn't just cough up another "bar tab" and go for the head(s) of the pack.

[steven c newman]

Then main reason I do NOT like the 62....besides being a tear-out machine....and the added expense of multiple irons I would somehow try to keep track of...is this..
438919
I removed the cap iron to find this mess...after the plane had stopped even trying to cut..Pine...then, UNDERNEATH the iron..
438920
All the way back and into the depth adjuster bolt....

Back on to the shelf for another year....

[Jerome Andrieux]

My 2 cents:

1. There is no "perfect minimal set", but you can’t go really wrong with the brands you named. I would choose the LV rabbet block plane though.
2. Let’s face it, you are asking a lovable bunch of addicts to help with your first dose. If you like it, you’ll get more. If you don’t, the brands mentioned have great resell value.
3. Whatever choice you make, whether new or vintage, high end bronze pmv11 or simple iron woodies, learn how to sharpen the blades. The rest is only 20% of the work and results. It needs to be done well many times a day. I would suggest a simple double sided diamond plate and some honing compound on mdf.

Have fun!

[David Bassett]

... I would suggest a simple double sided diamond plate and some honing compound on mdf. ...

I would suggest searching for sharpening threads when you're ready to address your sharpening needs. (If you even hint at an interest, this crew will rehash every variation and each personal preference for days overwhelming you with info.) :)

PS- diamond plates are evil for sharpening! ;)

[Jim Koepke]

Then main reason I do NOT like the 62....besides being a tear-out machine....and the added expense of multiple irons I would somehow try to keep track of...is this..

I removed the cap iron to find this mess...after the plane had stopped even trying to cut..Pine...then, UNDERNEATH the iron..

All the way back and into the depth adjuster bolt....

Back on to the shelf for another year....

My LN #62 never has that problem. Yours is definitely not a Lie-Nielsen #62.

As with many things the original maker has a lot to do with how well a product works.

Just my 438921

jtk

[Tony Wilkins]

My LN #62 never has that problem. Yours is definitely not a Lie-Nielsen #62.

As with many things the original maker has a lot to do with how well a product works.

Just my 438921

jtk
Neither has my ln #62.

[Victor Price Jr]

I would suggest searching for sharpening threads when you're ready to address your sharpening needs. (If you even hint at an interest, this crew will rehash every variation and each personal preference for days overwhelming you with info.) :)

PS- diamond plates are evil for sharpening! ;)

I’ve got diamond plates. 300/600/1200 an 8000 stone and strop. I sharpen chisels for friends and family. I’ve got that part down. I’ve got a jig as well.

[Victor Price Jr]

Oh, I think I’m going to try a couple of type 19 Stanley’s. What angle should’ve they be sharpened to? 25 or 30?

[Tony Wilkins]

Oh, I think I’m going to try a couple of type 19 Stanley’s. What angle should’ve they be sharpened to? 25 or 30?
To answer your sharpening question, yes.

[ken hatch]

I’ve got diamond plates. 300/600/1200 an 8000 stone and strop. I sharpen chisels for friends and family. I’ve got that part down. I’ve got a jig as well.

Victor,

Oh such innocence :D, just you wait until you have a question or make a statement like I've got that part down.

ken

[steven c newman]

Never said mine was...it IS however a #62....just happened to be from Wood River.....would rather it have been a VINTAGE Stanley #62...but...

[steven c newman]

Hmmm, anyone enjoy the little Show &Tell? or, are we too busy selling other planes?

Maybe I just wasted my time putting the picture show together....

[Victor Price Jr]

/smh I did say that didn’t I?

[David Bassett]

Oh, I think I’m going to try a couple of type 19 Stanley’s. What angle should’ve they be sharpened to? 25 or 30?

The (common) Stanley bench planes are bevel-down, so the bed sets your cutting angle and all you need to worry about is clearance and longevity. Clearance of 12-deg is considered plenty. (I read someone say 7-deg was the minimum, but I don't know under what conditions.) Therefore, with a 45-deg bed, you need 33-deg or less. Shoot for 30, more or less, and you should be good to go. (If you're jigged up for 25, that'd work too, but maybe not last as long.)

[glenn bradley]

More show and tell? ;-)

#1- The Apron Plane I prefer and a couple of other block planes that have been morphed into quasi-No 3's.

438954

A bevel up smoother that I really like but . . .

438951

I would leave it for a No 4 (in this case an MF No 9) if I could only have one.

438952

The ever-useful LAJ.

438955

A BU Jointer.

438953

I could do almost anything with these four but, I would really miss my shoulder planes ;-)

[Victor Price Jr]

Thanks for the info David. This has been a very helpful post. I really appreciate everyone’s feedback.

[Anuj Prateek]

Sharing my experience, may be of help.

Buy the first one or two planes based on wood length you are going to work with now or in near future. Rest you can add as needed.

Till few months back my most used plane was LV Custom #7. If you are going to work with long boards (un-jointed, 24" and more) then start here.

Now a days I work with 12-20" length wood pieces. I am using Wood River #5 most of the time. #7 is finding hardly any use.

Instead of block plane I would suggest a LA bevel up plane first. It works like a dream on end grains. With a plane from LV you can have one or two irons with different bevel angles. I have a LV LA Jack and if it's on bench I rarely reach for block plane.

I have a Wood River block plane. I use it mostly for rough work (on glue line) or when I need a very small plane.

I have a Stanley #3 and LV Custom #4. These are reserved as smoother. Though I often end up using #3 when working on smaller wood pieces. #3 can easily replace a block plane, for my usage. Smoother as smoother is the least used plane for me. I can't arrive at final finish without sandpaper. I guess it takes time to learn to use smoother effectively.

Well, if you can save some money on "not urgent" planes and buy a few joinery planes. I find router plane and plough, kind of indispensable.

Good luck with your plane search!

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Everyone, this is my first post and hopefully I can get some advice. I've primarily been woodworker who uses machines, but I'm find that I need more options. I'm planning on buying a few hand planes in the near future, and I'd like some opinions. I like to buy a tool once, and keep it, so I don't mind spending a little more up front from a quality tool. I already know the opinions will all be varied and informative, so please give me what you got.

I'm planning on having a total of 4 planes, some of which I haven't decided on, some I have. The one's I haven't are the one's I need help with.

#1 Block plane - I keep going round and round over this one. I'm stuck between the Veritas DX60 and the Lie-Neilsen 60 1/2 (can't make a decision on the standard or rabbit). I'm really hoping users who have these tools or have both, can give me some feedback regarding: adjustable mouth, blade adjustment, shape for medium sized hands, etc.

#2 Smoothing plane - Pretty sure I'm going with the LN 4 1/2 on this. (This will likely be the last of the 4 planes, that I buy)

#3 Jack plane - Pretty sure i'm going with the LN 5 1/2 here as well. This will likely be the second plane I buy. Block plane being first.

#4 Jointer plane - kind of at a loss on this one. The LN and the WoodRiver both look good with similar features, do not like the looks of the veritas' rounded shapes on the heel, but that's just a style choice. In regards to weight, comfort for hand size, etc.

I've been reading reviews, watching youtube non-stop, trying to get the best feel, but would really like some personal feedback.

Sorry for the long rant, but I appreciate any information or opinion you guys can provide.

Hi Victor

I am coming in late, and quite reluctant to make a suggestion as you must be overwhelmed by the suggestions. I do have a comment to make, however, which may not be what you are wanting to hear ...

Since you have a thicknesser and planer, forgo the #7 jointer at this time. Also forgo the jack plane. They are not a "must have' with the machines in the back ground.

The two planes you could get the most out out are the block plane and the smoother.

Which block plane? Both the DX60 and 60 1/2 are the best available and either would last a lifetime. I use both, and it's a tie: the Veritas has the better adjustments and blade steel (PM-V11), while the LN is a tad more comfortable in my hand.

Smoother? If depends how gung-ho you are. If you just want to get going, get a BU plane - the Veritas BU Smoother is amazing. If you would prefer a bevel down plane and are interested in setting a chipbreaker, a "super smoother" may be the ticket since you are smoothing flat boards: LN #5 1/2

Don't forget the sharpening stuff!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Dan Kraakenes]

I could take you through my "journey"..
You could purchase used planes.. its cheaper and you can find great planes for little money.

I´m more in the camp of we have companies now that make new quality products, so I should spend my money on supporting those companies, or they will go under.
Or all we have left is used planes again.


Using "normal High End planes"... Lie Nilsen or Lee Valley.

LN : Lie Nilsen : Old school copies beefed up.
LV : Lee Valley: Science based and improving planes using body mechanics, quality of life upgrades (set screws) and metallurgy (PM-V11)

Regular advise, for your need.
Block: #60 1/2
Smoother: #4
Jack : #5
Jointer: #7


You have Big hands or larger built?
Block: #60 1/2
Smoother: #4 1/2
Jack: #5 1/2
Smoother: #7


I have big hands, and my ancient #4 feels to cramped.
So I was ready to go for 4 1/2, 5 1/2..

But, there is a another choice..
Bevel Up planes.. or LV Custom planes.
Your hands are not cramped up into the frog/blade..


BU : Bevel Up without Chip breaker.
BD : Bevel Down with Chip breaker.

I personally chose:
LN : #60 1/2
LV : BU Smoother
LV : BU Jack
LV : BU Jointer


BU: Simpler, lighter, a bit more complex to put camber on blade and controls "tear out" by sharpening a tiny secondary bevel on blade.
BD: A bit more complex, heavier, easier to put camber on blade and controls "tear out" by setting the chip breaker very close to the blade edge.

Im not sure yet if I regret choosing the BU compared to BD Custom...


But most advice I have seen during the years for starting with hand planes are in this order.
1. Bevel Up Jack (all are #5-5 1/2 sized and often called Low Angle Jack)
2. #60 1/2 Block
3. #4 or 4 1/2 Smoother
4. #7 Jointer


So...
LN BD: Classic design, pretty, fast Bailey adjustment, heavier, maybe cramped grip (many prefer it!!)
LV Custom: Newer design, ergonomically better, better blade steel, set screws for lateral adjustments, open grip, adjustable mouth, slower Norris adjuster
LV BU: Simpler, ergonomically better, better blade steel, set screws for lateral adjustments, open grip, adjustable mouth, slower Norris adjuster



Good luck... ;)

.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Place has been pretty quiet lately. Nice to see a good “spend my money for me” thread and a sharpening thread to get things livened up.

[Mike Kreinhop]

Hmmm, anyone enjoy the little Show &Tell? or, are we too busy selling other planes?

Maybe I just wasted my time putting the picture show together....

Well, since you asked, I usually don't look at any of your images because the contrast is too washed out on my monitor (27-inch iMac), the backgrounds are too cluttered, and clicking on them doesn't help much for the resolution. I think I remember reading in one of your posts that you use a one-size-fits-all post processing standard so your images will comply with restrictions on another website.

[steven c newman]

Yep....THIS site ....

Shows up fine on mine....

[Mike Henderson]

Yep....THIS site ....

Shows up fine on mine....

I didn't really look at your pictures until you asked the question but here's my comments. My first suggestion is to make the pictures larger. I like to use 1500 pixels across. The web site will scale the pictures to fill the screen but if someone clicks on that image they will get the full resolution. That allows someone to see more of the detail in the pictures.

Beyond that, attention to proper focus is really important. Some lesser improvements are to pose your image so that the object is the major focus of the picture. For example, if you are taking a picture of a hand plane, using a plain background, such as a white sheet, will bring attention to the plane and not to the background. The position of the camera to the image should be selected carefully to show the object in the proper perspective and with the detail you want to convey.

If you post process your pictures, such as with PhotoShop, adjust the lighting and contrast so that the details of the image are visible. For example, oftentimes detail is not visible in the shadows but with some adjustment in PhotoShop you can lighten up the shadows so that shadow detail is visible.

If you don't do post processing, attention to the lighting setup in the shot is very important so that strong shadows are minimized.

Anyway, just a few suggestions. Other people may have some of their own.

Mike

[Victor Price Jr]

I just want to say thank you to everyone so far. I appreciate your time and effort in providing me some valuable opinions and sites I can use for research. I'm working on starting with a LA block plane (Stanley for now, probably with a LV blade) and 1 or 2 Stanley type 19s (3 and 4 I think to start off with). I'll play with those for a while and get the feel of anything before making any bigger purchases.

[Andrew Seemann]

That sounds like a good plan. I started about the same way, except with lower quality planes. Back then availability wasn't what it is today, and I was poor:)

[Tony Wilkins]

I just want to say thank you to everyone so far. I appreciate your time and effort in providing me some valuable opinions and sites I can use for research. I'm working on starting with a LA block plane (Stanley for now, probably with a LV blade) and 1 or 2 Stanley type 19s (3 and 4 I think to start off with). I'll play with those for a while and get the feel of anything before making any bigger purchases.

just do your research on Stanley made 70’s or later.

[steven c newman]

Tried that...site will NOT show the photos above what I am posting now....been going through that BS for the past year..and...this IS the only site I will need to size the pictures like that....all others I am on, re-size large photos down to what will fit their site....but not here.

Question was more about what planes I posted...NOT a "Photo Class 101" It is what it is....thanks to this site..
439001

I have things to clean up....have fun....

[Thomas Wilson]

Tried that...site will NOT show the photos above what I am posting now....been going through that BS for the past year..and...this IS the only site I will need to size the pictures like that....all others I am on, re-size large photos down to what will fit their site....but not here.

Question was more about what planes I posted...NOT a "Photo Class 101" It is what it is....thanks to this site..
439001

I have things to clean up....have fun....

I have said it before, but it bears repeating. Steven’s photos look “dungeon-y”. It is his brand. I like it. I read every post that Steven C Newman shares. He wins Post-of-the-Day almost every day in my book. Thanks, Steven.

[Mike Henderson]

Tried that...site will NOT show the photos above what I am posting now....been going through that BS for the past year..and...this IS the only site I will need to size the pictures like that....all others I am on, re-size large photos down to what will fit their site....but not here.

Question was more about what planes I posted...NOT a "Photo Class 101" It is what it is....thanks to this site..
439001

I have things to clean up....have fun....

If you use PhotoShop Elements you can choose "Save for Web" when saving and it will minimize the size of the file, while allowing larger pixel images. I have no problems posting pictures that are 1500 pixels across and even larger here on the forum. Look here (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?284816-SOLD-Set-of-Vaughan-and-Bushnell-(V-amp-B)-Planes-for-Sale-400&highlight=)to see some examples of pictures posted here that are about 1500 pixels across

Mike

[Jim Koepke]

Tried that...site will NOT show the photos above what I am posting now....been going through that BS for the past year..and...this IS the only site I will need to size the pictures like that....all others I am on, re-size large photos down to what will fit their site....but not here.

Question was more about what planes I posted...NOT a "Photo Class 101" It is what it is....thanks to this site..
439001

I have things to clean up....have fun....

The image is unusually sharp compared to many of your images. One of my best photographic investments was a good tripod almost 50 years ago. Back then my favorite film was Kodachrome 25 ASA.

BTW, these two #4 planes are over 130 years old and still taking decent shavings:

439002

Not as fancy as a shiney new plane, but still able to do the job.

jtk

[bill epstein]

Go to a hardware store and buy whatever is the latest iteration of the Stanley #4, $53.23 at Home Depot. Buy a couple of stones and use these pages and You Tube to tune and sharpen it with a slight camber. When it works like a dream, as mine does, you've learned all you need to know to move on to any of the 64, so far, recommendations here.

[Clifford McGuire]

Yep....THIS site ....

Shows up fine on mine....

That must not be the case anymore. Everyone else's pics can be opened for more detail.

I'm new here and learning. I'd love to see more detail in your pictures. For example, you posted a pic of the tools you put in the top of your new tool chest. There wasn't enough detail to really see the tools. You sometimes circle a detail for emphasis. But there is no way to really see what you are trying to point out.

[steven c newman]

Have you tried clicking on the image? Works for me....

And yet,, not a word is said when I do the "Build Threads"? Strange....

FYI: I just went through the size of photo issues a few months back....to where I had to drastically SHRINK what I was trying to post....above a certain pixel count..it would only show up as a series of blue letters and numbers, and IF you did click on them....you were told it was an invalid...whatever.....I post the size I feel will show up on THIS site....have zero issues on all the other sites I go to.....

I have just a hobby level workshop...have not the time, money, or inclination to also run a photo studio just to satisfy 3-4 more people.....out of how many?

[Derek Cohen]

Steven, you have managed to make this thread about you. Congratulations!

I usually post photos from an external site. This is just a photo chosen at random, which has been posted here previously ....

https://i.postimg.cc/fT8Zkmtp/Apothecary-Chest-Final-html-23b3cc36.jpg

That pic is 121 Kb in size.

I have added the photo again, this time from smc’s server.

439036

Does that work for everyone? Same quality?

I agree with both Mikes. It is not difficult to take decent photos with a phone, as I do. Part of the process is automatic, since the camera does the work for me. I do take the time to compose the shot, and then I take the time to edit it so that it displays the information in a manner which I believe others will appreciate it. I use Photoshop Elements. Sometime the big picture is best, but often one needs to crop out the background so that detail is presented, as in the above example.

It is not just the artist in me that seeks to get the best out of a photo, as I would the best out of a build in wood, but it is about communication, and this is a reciprocal process: to get the best reception from others, I must give the information in the best manner I can.

Steven, you are good at giving advice. You are just not good at taking it. Please recognise that advice is given on the forum to help one another, and a polite reply is preferred over some snarky defensive growl.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Kreinhop]

Have you tried clicking on the image? Works for me....

And yet,, not a word is said when I do the "Build Threads"? Strange....

FYI: I just went through the size of photo issues a few months back....to where I had to drastically SHRINK what I was trying to post....above a certain pixel count..it would only show up as a series of blue letters and numbers, and IF you did click on them....you were told it was an invalid...whatever.....I post the size I feel will show up on THIS site....have zero issues on all the other sites I go to.....

I have just a hobby level workshop...have not the time, money, or inclination to also run a photo studio just to satisfy 3-4 more people.....out of how many?

Don't get your knickers in a bunch. You asked a question and I answered it. If you don't like the answer, put me on ignore and continue doing what you're doing. I read your posts, but don't bother with the images.

I clicked on your image, and it opened in a separate window slightly larger than the thumbnail, as all uploaded images here do. I clicked on it again, as I do with all uploaded images I want to see, and the size didn't change. As an example, I grabbed a random 2MB image from my computer that I took with my cell phone. The only editing I did was to crop the image to get rid of the door and frame that was in the original image. It is 3,024 x 4,032 pixels. If you click on it once, it will open in a larger window. If you click it again, it will open with a black background (on all of my machines). If you click on it again, it will open to its full size. Your images don't change size no matter how many times I click on them after the first click.

439044

I don't have any idea why your uploading is different than mine. I use any of five computers at home, which includes two Mac laptops, one iMac, and two Win10 laptops. They all behave the same on SMC when it comes to uploading and viewing images.

[Erich Weidner]

Victor,

If you are confused now, wait for this thread to run for a few days :p.



Ken, you are a prognosticator. I didn't log into the creek for one day, and this is already 4 pages long. I guess I'll get my popcorn ready for the reading. :)

[Erich Weidner]

Does that work for everyone? Same quality?


Wow, this thread went a bit off into the weeds... :)

But to answer the question, actually this particular post (of yours) is weird. The inline image is high quality. When I click on the SMC thumbnail image it pops up a bigger image, which seems to be the same size as the inline pic (though it appears of lower quality... but could be just that the background is now grey vs white and affecting my perception).

However, when I click it again, the "zoomed" image is actually smaller. Really strange. For my own posts, I don't edit the photos with desktop software, I take them on my phone, they automatically get uploaded to my Dropbox Camera Uploads, which are now "on" my PC. For posting, I use the "insert image" button from the advanced editor to put in photos.

When I click on my post thumbnails I get a bigger image, clicking again yields the exact same size. It does all seem inconsistent.

PS I've learned to hold my phone in one orientation only when I take pics I intend to upload here so they don't show up sideways. I have no interest in editing things before posting. (I just try to take a good picture up front, and call it a day).

PPS Some people's photos are the exact same size though this click progression (Stephen's being in that group). Thumbnail -> Click on it -> Click again (all same size/resolution).

PPPS (I wish the forum software would get updated as I think VBB is some of the issue).

[john zulu]

Hi David,
I think you asked the perfect question, since I didn't explain this. A majority of my work will be done on Table saw, Jointer, Planer. I'm looking to use hand planes to extend my ability with the jointer, and probably 90% of what I will be doing is cleanup and assembly prep on the work pieces.


I will start here. There are plenty of power tools you already own which makes the job a lot faster. If I was to work with this setup I will go with the following tools

1) Block plane. Either power or purist this does not fail. I own the DX 60 and a Luban Low Angle block plane. I would say that either choices will not fail you. Just that Veritas has better steel for their blades.
2) Stanley #4 or Veritas BUS. Veritas has all the blade configuration to managed very stubborn wood here.
3) If you do go with Veritas bevel up go for the Low Angle Jack plane. Will be an excellent choice for it versatility.

I would skip the Jointer as your power tools does very well or not specialize tools like the Scrub plane. Plow planes are another item which you can get as I do not see any router you are having on the list.

4) Plow planes from Veritas or old Stanley like 45,50 or 55
5) Stanley 71 or Veritas/LN router planes.

The list goes on and on. Really depends on your choice and usage.

[Victor Price Jr]

Just a quick update. I've gone ahead and purchased a #4 from ebay. I've got it cleaned up, now trying to get a camber on the blade, it cuts well enough, but leaves a line/ridge. Anyway, Thanks for all the help. I've got to go read the sharpening posts now...

Originally came like this:439249
Cleaned up to this : 439250439251

[Jerome Andrieux]

it cuts well enough, but leaves a line/ridge.

There must be a dent somewhere, positive or negative, on the blade or the sole. Most often a dent in the blade. Nails and sand are the usual suspects.

The corners can leave marks on heavy cuts too.

Nice restauration anyway, have fun o/

[David Eisenhauer]

Very nice cleanup on the #4 Victor. As Jerome says, has to be something on the iron and a close looksee should show something. This is when a powered grinder is nice to have and you can just take an 1/8" off the front edge of the iron and re sharpen. Once that is fixed, I believe that the #4 is a very good starting point and will be a useful addition to your tool kit. Show us some "curlies" when you can.

[Victor Price Jr]

Very nice cleanup on the #4 Victor. As Jerome says, has to be something on the iron and a close looksee should show something. This is when a powered grinder is nice to have and you can just take an 1/8" off the front edge of the iron and re sharpen. Once that is fixed, I believe that the #4 is a very good starting point and will be a useful addition to your tool kit. Show us some "curlies" when you can.

so the issue with the track being left was the edge of the blade. I put a small camber on it, and she leaves everything smooth. Here are a few pics. 439291439292