Pole Pruners

[Thomas McCurnin]

I feel silly posting this question here, but I've been to a couple suppliers and tried joining a Firefighter's Forum and can't because I'm not a firefighter. So here it goes:

We have a summer place up in the mountains surrounded by old growth pine trees, many of which are 200'+ tall, others in the 30-75 foot range. Per the US Forest Service and our Insurer, we have to remove all branches under about 12 feet from the ground. Apparently those little branches, suckers sort of, catch fire easily, while the large main trunks are more fire resistant. We had a forest fire up there last week, a bad one, and had a couple hundred firefighters up there, using pole pruners by Stihl, a chain saw on a stick. They were too busy for me to ask, but it seems I need one of these (and one of their McLeoud rakes), and wanted to see if any homeowners have these and if so what brands.

Stihl makes three basic professional brands, a 12' and two 18' extension type pole saws, and a fourth 9' homeowner variety which does not telescope. The homeowner type seems enough for me. Other manufacturers have battery operated versions. This isn't anything I will be using all day long, perhaps a couple hours at a time, a few times a year. So either the small homeowner Stihl or perhaps a battery operated one might be good enough. The branches I will be sawing are no larger than 4" in diameter and most are an inch or two.

Does anyone here have a pole pruner, a chainsaw on a stick? If so, what brand and what do you like or dislike about it?

Thanks in advance, guys.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I have the Stihl pole pruner. Haven't used it a lot, but it works fine going through 3"- 4" branches.

Mine is an attachment and probably the short one.

I've had it for 10+ years.

[Bill Dufour]

I have seen ones at barn sales which are the old curved saw blade on a stick. The stick is maybe 10-20 feet long. I believe some one used to make a chainsaw version in town. you might ask a farm supply store in an area with orchards. Harbor freight use d to sell one with a two piece fiberglass pole. The blade was not good.
For you use I would think a manual would be good enough. I am not impressed with the chainsaw chain on a rope type. My Fiskars pole pruner has an a option to attach a sawblade for larger limbs.
Bil lD.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_3nfG6HvEE

https://www.americantreeservicesupply.com/tree-tools?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgoyOn6qX6wIVBNvACh1N7wSQEA QYBSABEgKT5vD_BwE#!/ATSS-HPS25-Pole-Saw-1-3-4-OD/p/158521574/category=0

[lowell holmes]

I have one of these and it doe what I want.

https://www.homedepot.com/s/ryobi%2520pole%2520saw?NCNI-5

[Larry Frank]

I have the Stihl with my Kombi setup and it works great. The Kombi is a motor with several different attachments such as the pruner, string trimmer, cultivator, etc.

[Tom M King]

I have the telescopic Stihl pole saw. It's really heavy to hold up in the air for long. For what you're talking about, a good pole saw, not powered, is what I'd use. They are so sharp that they take small suckers off in one stroke. Even larger limbs are cut pretty easily.

Don't get the homeowner kind with telescopic poles. I have the pro poles, that you put together, end to end, for a long of a pole as you need. If you have much to do, it ends up being less work to use this. I have 4- 6' poles, so we can cut a limb pretty high off the ground.

I have one very strong helper. He's 6'6", 320, and lifts weights. He's good all day with the manual pole saw, and only good for about 15 minutes with the Stihl.

I'll try to find a link.

Here's the type I was talking about. A number of different companies make them. For homeowner use, you don't need the high end stuff, like Silky. This seems like a reasonably priced set. I have both the saw, and a lopper, but the lopper head very rarely gets used. You can buy replacement saw blades, which run about 20 bucks off Amazon. The blade that comes with it will do what you need, without worrying about dulling it quickly.

I would recommend to buy something like this, and not a powered one.
https://www.treestuff.com/notch-pruner-saw-quick-change-set/

[Curt Harms]

We have the plug-in electric Harbor Freight pole saw. It works fine for us but power cord (or generator) required.

[Steve Demuth]

As others have said, if you're going after pine branches cut cleanly at the trunk, and up to 12' or so, I wouldn't wrestle with a pole chain saw. They are heavy and tiring. A very sharp traditional pole saw pruner is a much better choice.

Or, get yourself a 12' orchard ladder. (https://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/products.php?mi=82851&itemnum=90899) If the trees are on reasonably accessible ground, given that it's a one time job, the utility of the orchard ladder for other things could be just the ticket. If you've never used an orchard ladder - they are absolutely amazing to have for yard maintenance and the like. The tripod base makes them easy to set up on unevent ground, and incredibly stable compared to any other kind of step ladder for outdoor work.

[Bill Dufour]

My dad bought an orchard ladder and had problems with the third leg sinking in. It was a open tube at the bottom. He had to pound a dowel in it to fix that.
Bil lD

[Stan Calow]

I can tell you waving that saw on a stick around gets really tiring, just after a few minutes. I have had a couple of the <$100 Remington plug in pole saws, and works fine for me in the suburbs. But next time, I'll try the cordless. Not sure I want a live gas saw on the end of a long swinging pole, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Stihl based on experience with their regular chainsaws.

[Adam Herman]

i have and use an echo pas attachment system for string trimmer, blower, pole saw and plan on adding to that. i like the echo better than the stihl. it has never failed to start or had any issue like my stihl chainsaw. pole saws do get heavy after a while, and the reach is less than you imagine, because standing directly under a branch to reach it has exactly the consequences you imagine it has. ha. you do have to be careful to keep it from pinching the bar, i make a notch on the bottom of the branch and then go for the top. we have several fruit trees that i am battling fire blight on, and about 20 large pines and other trees around our property. i also use it for cleaning up a trunk before bucking, as its super easy to run down a tree without bending over or being in a weird position with the pole saw.

[Derek Meyer]

I have a friend who just bought the Dewalt 20V pole pruner, which has a 15' length and a 12" chainsaw-type blade. If you have any other Dewalt tools that use the 20V batteries, you can get the bare tool for under $200. My friend says she loves it and that it works great. I may get one myself, but I will likely get the chainsaw first, as I need to trim a lot of branches that I can reach from the ground.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Interesting comment about the length of the pole. Of course, now it seems obvious, for a 10 foot branch one needs to stand back at an angle, necessitating a reach of more than 12 feet. I may have to consider getting a taller reach pole saw.

[Erik Loza]

I've had a "Worx" corded one for several years now and it works great for my needs.

https://www.worx.com/8-inch-electric-pole-saw-wg310.html

Being able to remove the head and use it as a mini chainsaw is really nice.

Erik

[Tom M King]

A single 6' pole will let you saw a 10' high limb pretty easily. Adding another one lets you choke up on it, and still get out of the range of the falling sawdust. You will not likely see a tree pro using any type of poles but these.

The lopper is for cutting ends that are too whippy for the saw, like one too close to a building. The saw is the easiest to use near the trunk. The weight of the saw, and poles rests on the limb while you're cutting with it. It's not hard at all.

I have at least four types of pole pruners, and none of the telescopic ones have been used since I bought the pro setup.

The easiest way is with a rental lift, and a battery powered chainsaw. I did that for a couple of acres of Oak trees that we wanted a better view under, but I had rented the lift for another job. It's more trouble to move the towable lift, than to use the polesaw, for small limbs, but we had some Oak limbs up to 8". The cordless chainsaw is much easier to start, up a tree, or in a bucket.

My sawhead is a Jameson. I found one on Amazon. I could very easily do without the lopper.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077S1ASO?tag=aawpgas-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1&keywords=pole%20saw%20saw

I think this is the set I bought about 25 years ago: https://www.amazon.com/Jameson-FG-6PKG-7-Manual-Pruner-Fiberglass/dp/B01FY0CUIK/ref=pd_di_sccai_2/137-8129970-5464712?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FY0CUIK&pd_rd_r=c8db30d6-02d8-442a-a9cd-be2689210252&pd_rd_w=TiMnB&pd_rd_wg=oTfGE&pf_rd_p=5415687b-2c9d-46da-88a4-bbcfe8e07f3c&pf_rd_r=A0NP5EYRFG30XJ9NQ21G&psc=1&refRID=A0NP5EYRFG30XJ9NQ21G

I could have done just fine with the cheaper set, without the multi-purchase loppers. It's listed in there somewhere.

[Wade Lippman]

I got a SunJoe for like $30. It worked just fine, once I got them to replace the defective chain. I don't doubt the Stihl would be better, but how much do you need to use it?

[Ronald Blue]

I have the pruning attachment for my string trimmer. It works amazingly well. I think I paid $69 for it and it's worth every cent. So what if your arms get tired after a few minutes. Take a break. You will be amazed at how much you can accomplish in those few minutes. The Craftsman, Troy Bilt, Ryobi, and Husqvarna all work together. Unless you want a dedicated pole saw these work great. Interchangeable attachments.

[John K Jordan]

I have several pole pruners, both saws and bypass pruners with a pull rope. Fiskars makes a nice one. I have a chainsaw on a pole but it's not long enough

If possible, I simply climb a ladder and remove branches with a hand-held pruning saw. The type sold to foresters are a dream to use - I have a couple of Silky Zubat saws I bought from Bailey's Online. Cuts through 4" limbs with little effort. Comes with a great scabbard that fits on the belt.

If I'm feeling extra lazy I climb the ladder with a Dewalt 18v reciprocating saw with a pruning blade.

I don't have the requirement to remove the lower branches on pines but I often do because most are dead and look bad.

JKJ

[Ole Anderson]

I have an old Craftsman telescoping aluminum, plastic covered pole saw/lopper I got from my dad when he moved.. Probably 40 years old. Works fine for me. I have a Stihl 018 that I use (carefully and tied in) from a ladder, or up in the tree with my saddle and ropes when the branches are over 3". And a Corona hand saw for smaller branches close to the ground or when climbing. If you ever work from a ladder, remember the branches have a nasty habit of taking the ladder out from under you as they fall. Tie the ladder to the tree. And if you are up in the air, use PPE. Plenty of scary Youtube fails.

[Tom M King]

The main trouble I found with the telescopic poles, is that when you need to jerk a limb down, that got hung up on something, the poles will slip. That's what that hook is for on the back of the saw I've posted several links to. The non-telescopic poles are very secure.

I have all sorts of stuff to cut limbs with, including climbing gear. No one could pay me enough money to cut tree limbs off a ladder.

[mike stenson]

The main trouble I found with the telescopic poles, is that when you need to jerk a limb down, that got hung up on something, the poles will slip. That's what that hook is for on the back of the saw I've posted several links to. The non-telescopic poles are very secure.
.

Yes, this. I have a lot of mesquite on the property and the current (telescoping) pole trimmer has been.. problematic. Thanks for the links Tom, I really don't like powered pole trimmers either.

[Tom M King]

Those connections are not like anything else I've seen, and might not be readily apparent when you first look at them. The pin that goes in the holes is on a steel spring arm. You pull the pin out of the hole, with pressure against that spring, and swing it to the side. Then slide the poles together, align the holes, and move the pin back to engage both holes. It's not really hard to operate, but I've never had one of those connections to come loose.

With that saw, you don't need to undercut a limb. It'll cut through small ones, like an inch, with one quick swipe. On larger limbs that take multiple passes, watch for the limb to start bending down, then back the blade up, and take a quick stroke. It'll cut through quicker than the limb can bend, and peel bark down.

We have four of the 6' poles. The hard part, with a 24' pole, is getting it up in the air. It's easiest with two people. One person gets about half way, and throws it up, while the second person helps with the swing. Once it's up in the air, it's not that bad to handle, even going from tree to tree. 12' is no sweat, and 18' is not too bad. With a single 6' pole, there is nothing easier to handle in that reach range-I've either owned it, or own it.

We limbed up all the trees on this 2 acre point, to get a better view of the lake. That was just the last job done with them. I thought I had a better picture of it, but can't find it. This will give you an idea though. That's the point the sunset is off of, in my avatar. I have a throwing chainsaw chain that I plan to remove those Pine limbs with, but haven't gotten to them. They're about 40 feet high, and the bark is so thick, I don't want to climb them. The ground was too soft when I had the lift.

[Frank Drackman]

I have a Stihl pro model but think that any would do what you are asking. More important to me is the harness. It goes over both shoulders and buckles in the front. The saw attaches near the buckle. This keeps the weight & balance much more manageable than the single shoulder strap that comes with the saw.

[Mike Cutler]

Thomas
I had a very similar need this past spring.
I bought a Ryobi , 40vdc,battery powered, pole saw at Home Depot.
I really thought it was going to be a pretty "junky", but that it would do the job I needed and if I tossed it in the trash I would still be ahead. If nothing else I would sell the battery on Craigslist.
Let me tell you, that little plastic chain saw flat out works! I've been limbing Cherry, Oak, Maple, Pear, and Pine. The largest diameter was maybe 6" of cherry. I also have these nasty briars, and that pole allows me to get to the bases, cut them down, and not get torn up.
Mine is not the telescoping version, it has pole sections that you hook together. I think it cost me about $150 with tax. It's $150.00 I do not regret spending one bit!

[Bruce King]

Guess I need to upgrade. I have palm trees that shed fronds off the bottom but don’t fall off for a long time.
I rigged a real sharp pruner saw with hose clamps to a batch of plastic pvc and electrical conduit. Works fine but storage is a pain.

[Mark Paavola]

Thomas, I think for what you are doing the Stihl homeowner version is the way to go. I have the Husqvarna version and it works very well. It is the 8 foot version. My wife uses it all the time with no issues whatsoever. The are not that heavy and usually well balanced. By the way I am 64 yrs old and a little guy. 5'7" 160 lbs.

[Thomas Canfield]

For power, the Stihl poles are the best judging from the tree trimmers around here. I have 2 bypass rope pull pruners that also use a saw blade for larger limbs but work well for up to 1" especially on green limbs. Some of the dead oak 1" are a chore. I also have a Pouland Pro pole saw (does a job and has been reliable for about years so far) that I can use up to about 12' on limbs up to about 6" diameter. My problem now is the trimming I need to do is about 15' plus and I am not getting on a ladder to work like that anymore at docs strong suggestion. A rope pull bypass pole trimmer would handle most of the small limbs and pretty fast work. Just don't want to get the trimmer hung up and have to climb up to get it free DAMHIK.

[John K Jordan]

...Just don't want to get the trimmer hung up and have to climb up to get it free DAMHIK.

There is that potential of a pinch from a twisting limb. Good reason to have two pole trimmers - the second to cut the first one free!

I like to carry two chainsaws into the woods for that same reason. But another more sensible solution is to carry an extra bar and chain and any tools needed to swap them in the field, then cut the jammed bar free.

JKJ

[BOB OLINGER]

I have an inexpensive Remington 10" electric that does a surprisingly good job. Menards sells them for about $90 less the 11% rebate. While a gas powered one would be nice, the electric do most of what I've needed. A key is to keep using a sharp chain - replacement chains are less that $10.

[Melvin Feng]

I've got the Stihl HT-56 C-E. Overall, I am very happy with it, but have only used it a handful of times. I do like that it splits in half for transporting. It has a very narrow chain that cuts quickly. It isn't heavy compared to the other units, but it can get tiring if you are using it for lengthy periods of time. I don't use it with the shoulder strap, so that could definitely help with fatigue if you were to use it.

If all you need to cut is up to 12 feet, I think it would work really well. If you ever need to cut higher though, the saw I'm looking at is the extendable manual silky that can go up to 21 feet. I would only use it for branches that I can't reach with my Stihl though.

[Tom Bender]

Stuff is going to fall on you. Hard hat, goggles, sturdy shoes, leather jacket, cool weather.

[Brian Elfert]

Stuff is going to fall on you. Hard hat, goggles, sturdy shoes, leather jacket, cool weather.

I have one of those hard hats designed for use with a chainsaw that has the mesh face shield. I use it any time I am using a chainsaw or trimming tree branches overhead. I still wear safety glasses under the shield since sawdust can get through the mesh.

[Brian Elfert]

One thing I don't think I've seen mentioned in this thread is simply renting a gas powered pole saw when needed. I expect most of us don't need to trim up trees more than about once a year.

[Stan Calow]

One thing I don't think I've seen mentioned in this thread is simply renting a gas powered pole saw when needed. I expect most of us don't need to trim up trees more than about once a year.

Good point. Or one saw per extended family or among neighbors.