Edge trimming but on the top not the side, what is this called?

[Jon Steffen]

i'm wrapping my torsion box in solid wood, I was thinking of having it sit proud to the top of the table so I can trim it perfectly flat with the table. What is this cut/process called? Is it still edge banding?
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also, WHAT BIT SHOULD I USE?

a straight bit like this
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or some kind of flat bottoming bit like this?
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or this kind?
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[Kevin Jenness]

The process is trimming or flushing off the edgebanding. Any of those bits will work. Climbcutting (carefully) will prevent spelching.

[Jamie Buxton]

I'd be using a flush trim bit -- the kind with a bearing at the tip. In your pic above, the axis of the bit is horizontal. I'd stand the torsion box on one edge, so the router rests on the other edge.

[Joe Jensen]

I'd be using a flush trim bit -- the kind with a bearing at the tip. In your pic above, the axis of the bit is horizontal. I'd stand the torsion box on one edge, so the router rests on the other edge.

This is how I used to do it before I bought a dedicated tool. Be very careful holding the router vertically as any wiggle will show on the top face. for a critical project I made an aux fence for the router to ensure it was referenced to the top of the table or in your case bench.

[Andrew Hughes]

There’s no need for a router. If you keep it proud a 3/32 or less use a file to level it. At the end of the file wrap some tape so you don’t scuff up your Mdf. I use blue tape for stuff like this but what ever tape you can find will work.

[mike stenson]

I'd just use a plane. I'd be done before I setup a router to do it safely :)

[glenn bradley]

I made my own addition to a commercial teardrop plate. I just use a straight bit. You could certainly use tempered hardboard or MDF instead of plastics.

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It is easy to set the height. Just rest the router on a flat surface and lower the bit until it just touches the surface.

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Dust collection help keep spoil from getting "run over" while you are moving the router along which can result in a spoiled edge.

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[Charles P. Wright]

I've used a little lipper for similarly trimming solid edge banding, which does make it easier to avoid tipping the router when horizontal.

https://www.fastcap.com/product/little-lipper (https://www.fastcap.com/product/little-lipper)

[Dave Sabo]

Charles beat me to it.

Cheap and cheerful, that lipper.

[Matt Day]

Thanks for posting about the Little Lipper - haven’t seen that before. Fast Cap has some great products, I have a few and have been happy with them.

[brent stanley]

I usually do that on the shaper, but of course this may well be the Rolls Royce option: https://produkte.mafell.de/en/mortising/edge-router/edge-router-kf-1000

B

[ChrisA Edwards]

Thank you on that Little Lipper info, simple, but ingenuous.

I use a Festool MK700 router as my edge band trimmer, but it's not always the best tool. Then I go to my Bosch palm router, so this Little Lipper will be a great addition for that.

[mike stenson]

If I were doing production work, I'd buy a lipping planer. But that makes the Mafell look cheap :)

[Jon Steffen]

nice. Think i'll buy a little lipper and practice a few times before I use it on my torsion box project.

[Warren Lake]

big shops use a power planer set up for that. Either custom made from an existing manufacturer or like this. if the one shown above is a router bit working off the outside edge id have no interest in a router bit tool. The lipping tool will do small or a big honking solid edge.

You are doing one top or a quantity? a hand plane is fine if its not production stuff.



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[Dave Sabo]

post pics for us

[Jon Steffen]

I will once I get there. i'm just preparing things now as i know this edge treatment will come up.

I've never used a hand plane (crazy right?). i'm not sure if this task is the right time to try it out.

[Brian W Evans]

I recently did this same procedure. I thought I would use a router but then decided that a handplane would be faster and easier. The process was indeed easy and the results were perfect. If you end up going this route, put some pencil marks on the MDF adjacent to the edging. It can be difficult to see when you're starting to cut the smooth surface of the MDF.

While researching the best way to do this with a router, I came across a recommendation that said to use a bowl bit because it gradually digs into the cut and reduces tearout. I have not tried this, but it sounds reasonable.

[Gustav Gabor]

My preference for flush trimming critical pieces is a cabinet scraper, such as is available from Lee Valley.
I find I have much better control, and can make the edging perfectly flush with the substrate, without the worry that the router bit or plane blade will gouge the work piece.
Router bits and hand planes do work quite well, but for me, I just feel the cabinet scraper is the best tool for precision results.
That is, as long as there aren't hundreds of edges to trim.....

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50222557216_be019731d0.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jvZJwU)

[Brian W Evans]

Another option, if you've got a lot to do, is the Festool MFK700 router. I've never used it but it is designed for this exact application. I has a special base that lets you run the router horizontally to flush trim the edging. Here is a more in-depth explanation:

https://youtu.be/nB9WhNdgP0k?t=421

[ChrisA Edwards]

Another option, if you've got a lot to do, is the Festool MFK700 router. I've never used it but it is designed for this exact application. I has a special base that lets you run the router horizontally to flush trim the edging. Here is a more in-depth explanation:

https://youtu.be/nB9WhNdgP0k?t=421

I have one of these and use it most of the time for trimming my edge banding. You have to make sure the over hang, of the edge banding is not more than about 1/8", otherwise it gets a little awkward to use with the base. It also will only accept a 5/8" just length router bit, which rules out making a 3/4" edge banding strip, without the base, which a guy on Youtube demonstrates how to do (Half Inch Shy, I think, is his Youtube channel).

I also has a choice of base that allows for a 90 degree cut, as an option, but comes with an 89 degree base (I think that's the angle), so it taper the edge banding. Not visible to the eye, but Festool did it that way for a reason.

I should add, it's a nice tool, as are most Festool products, but it's not a game changer by any means.