Mounting a Router Top on a Tablesaw Extension

[Gary Curtis]

My machinery dealer tells me there are some challenges here because of the Biesememeyer 50" fence. There would be a gap if I used tops made for contractor saws. And on full-sized tops, the fence rails would interfere.

And the router fence doesn't have clean sides to grab on to.

Yesterday, I saw an interesting thread on WoodNet. A guy solved these problems because he isn't using the left leaf of his table saw. He got a slider and had to remove it. So he machined a hole in and uses the iron leaf as his router top on a right extension table. Coming from the same saw, the leaf fits perfectly in the extension frame and with the extended fence.

Does that sound practical? What other manufacturers offer a solution?

(you can tell I don't know nuttin 'bout routers)

Gary Curtis

[Jim Becker]

Someone posted about re-engineering a table saw cast iron wing just the other day here in another thread. Sounds workable...or you can check out the BenchDog cast iron wing. Do note that you can't use any of these on a left-tilt saw if you want the router on the left side...the motor cover will interfere.

[Hank Knight]

Gary, my last table saw was a Powermatic 64. I took the right table extension wing off and made a replacement out of MDF (2 thicknesses), covered on both sides and the edges with high pressure laminate (fommica). I made a mounting bracket out of 2" X 1/4" heavy aluminum angle and bolted the extension to the saw, using the same bolts and bolt holes the as the original table extension. I cut a hole for the router plate and dropped it in. The extension needed a little shimming to get it level, but it serverd me well for 10 years. I used the tablesaw rip fence with the router table and built some jigs and hold-downs that worked well with it. I really liked the micro adjust on the Powermatic #64 rip fence with the router table. I hated the saw, but I loved the router table. Sold the whole shebang several years ago and bought a Unisaw. I mounted a Bench Dog after-market router table extension in place of the Unisaw's left table extension. I like it too, but I miss the micro-adjust feature.
My point is that you can build a good router table insert for your saw without having to rely on a store-bought one.
My $.02 FWIW

[Gary Curtis]

All this is a real education to me. By the way, my saw is a Right-tilt General.

My fence is a Biesemeyer, so it doesn't have micro adjust. I was thinking of welding a small clamp device to make it into a micro adjust, just like the Accu-Fence or HTC.

But, how does a the rip fence work in conjunction with the router. The work would have to pushed past the router bit from a fore and aft position. Isn't that a compromise? I mean don't you normally stand at a router table facing the bit and fence?

If using the saw's rip fence, don't you have to make a sacrificial face to employ a router? And how about things like jointing? Don't they require a split fence?

In the back of my mind, I am guessing that good books about routers must have some suggestions. The two books on my shelf are pretty crappy and not very imaginative.

Gary C.

[Jim Kountz]

Ive had a router mounted on the right side of my saw with a 50" Bies fence for something like 15 years. I made the table extension myself and dropped the router plate in. You feed the work just like you do when you saw. I made an auxillary fence for the router that slips over the Bies and locks in place with two thumb screws. This one has been replaced and modified over the years several times but its basically a standard looking router fence with two fence halves that adjust for bit size and a dust port. Its a pretty simple thing to do really, and works out great for me.

[Don Baer]

Here's mine. I Bought the mounting plate from Rockler. The Aux fence I made and attach it to the rip fence. Dust collection is from my shop vacuum
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[glenn bradley]

I stand facing the fence as you describe. I only use the TS fence when doing cuts other than edge cuts; dados. inside frame profiles, etc. I have a regular RT fence for profiles and vertical work.

[Jeremy Gibson]

Like many others I made my own router fence that gets clamped to the right side of my table saw fence when needed. The router sits in a home-made extension table on the right side. If/when I redo this I'd put it on the left side since that's just more convenient for me.

Here is a thread with my setup: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=28574

This thread has a PDF file with drawings, material list, and instructions:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=30160

[Jeff Miller]

:)This is how I did it with a salvaged tablesaw top, I paid $10.00:)http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/43dabb5dz52cbc9c9/1d3b/__sr_/5b49.jpg?phArLCFBxGUNOQ.Xhttp://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/43dabb5dz52cbc9c9/1d3b/__sr_/23a7.jpg?phArLCFBzGiUpFJjhttp://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/43dabb5dz52cbc9c9/1d3b/__sr_/1968.jpg?phArLCFByCaRJb_nhttp://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/43dabb5dz52cbc9c9/1d3b/__sr_/7d87.jpg?phArLCFB91qfcAny

[Guy Germaine]

Here's my setup. It's on a 22124, but it has the Bies fence. I moved the front fence rail over about 10" to get almost 41" of right-side rip capacity. (Rarely rip to the left anyway). I then built a 27" X 48" extension to the right side of the saw. I can slide the Bies fence over far enough to use it at the router, and still stand on the "normal" side of the saw. I also added the Incra Positioner, which makes for a REAL nice setup.

http://www.fototime.com/048C18E6E3A4596/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/75B8D696C096675/standard.jpg

[Roald Euller]

It looks like your TS is a Jet, like mine. What isn't clear is how you attached the router table extension to the front and rear rails. Did you bore new holes in the rails for bolts?

Also, is the rear rail that same somewhat flimsy piece of chromed steel that came with my saw? Do you have any problems with rail deflection under the weight of the router and table?

Finally, if that is the same fence that I have (the Jet Fence), the rear is unattached. Does the fence deflect at the rear when you apply pressure to it through the auxiliary router fence?

Thanks!

[Don Baer]

It looks like your TS is a Jet, like mine. What isn't clear is how you attached the router table extension to the front and rear rails. Did you bore new holes in the rails for bolts?

Yup I bored two hole in the rails then used the two that are part of the TS wings. The top is a frame made from 3/4" Poblar with a melamine insert.



Also, is the rear rail that same somewhat flimsy piece of chromed steel that came with my saw? Do you have any problems with deflection under the weight of the router and table?


I haven't noticed any deflection problems and have been using it for almost a year.



Finally, if that is the same fence that I have (the Jet Fence), the rear is unattached. Does the fence deflect at the rear when you apply pressure to it through the auxiliary router fence?

No problem with the fence moving, once I lock it in place it stays there. I don't take real big passes. You might notice that the fence has shims between the face and the frame. These are 1/8" shims. I set the fence in postition without the shims in place then I insert as many of the shims as needed and make succesive cuts removing the shims one at a time after each pass. This is partiularly helpful in doing climb cutting which I do a lot of on figured wood.


Thanks!

Your welcome..:D

[Don Baer]

Oh and welcome to the creek.;)

[glenn bradley]

Depends on the saw. My 22124 motor does not protrude out the left side in the 90* position. Instead it protrudes out the right when the blade is tilted to the left. Fortunately I like my RT on the left anyway. ;-)

[glenn bradley]

As you see in Guy's pics the distance between the Bies rails is the same as most RT's made as a saw extension, 27". Although Guy made his own, my Rockler fits fine as would an MLCS, a Benchdog, etc. So, maybe I misunderstand the gap your dealer is talking about(?).

No need to grab the edge with the fence, it rides in slots on the table and grabs via t-bolts. I see lots of replies here. Hope some or all of them help you accomplish your goal. I know these guys have helped me PLENTY!

[Andrew Ault]

My fence is a Biesemeyer, so it doesn't have micro adjust. I was thinking of welding a small clamp device to make it into a micro adjust, just like the Accu-Fence or HTC.


Gary,

I use a Biesemeyer. I was planning to make some sort of micro-adjust mechanism, but instead, I've developed another method of micro-adjustment. I just stick a 1" dial gauge to the iron table (with a standard magnetic dial gauge holder from Lee Valley) on the side of the fence away from the blade with the gauge tip against the fence. Then I tap the fence while watching the dial. Perfect every time. You will learn pretty quickly that the fence moves (into alignment) while you tighten the lever.

- Andy