Thin tabletops

[Tyler Bancroft]

I have some beautiful 10-12" wide, approx. 1" thick cherry boards (almost entirely clear heartwood). I'd love to use them to make a tabletop for a dinner table (probably something in the dimensions of 2.5x6 feet), but I'm concerned about making a tabletop that size with a finished thickness in the range of 3/4". I'm considering running supports between the aprons underneath the tabletop and attaching them to the tabletop with the same buttons or figure-8 washers I use to attach the tabletop to the aprons. Is this likely to be sufficient to stiffen and support the tabletop? Anyone have suggestions for working with thin tabletops? Cheers!

[Mark Bolton]

We make 4/4 tops all the time without any concern. If you want a thicker edge you can rip/fold your material around and with decent attention to detail its relatively seamless (still will show V patterns in grain but pretty much no one would ever know. You can use a multitude of options in the base construction to add some stability but honestly if you do a decent job with the top and a balanced finish you should have no problems at all.

[Charles Lent]

If you bevel the underside edge you can have a thick and stable table top with a thin edge, making it look thin, but structurally very strong. This was done a lot when table making from solid woods over the last several centuries. I have made several tables this way myself.

Charley

[Mel Fulks]

Can't help but wonder if you think you can't get the boards flat ! The most I would do for overkill us slap some finish
on the under side.

[Jim Becker]

Zero issue with this...go for it!

[Tyler Bancroft]

We make 4/4 tops all the time without any concern. If you want a thicker edge you can rip/fold your material around and with decent attention to detail its relatively seamless (still will show V patterns in grain but pretty much no one would ever know. You can use a multitude of options in the base construction to add some stability but honestly if you do a decent job with the top and a balanced finish you should have no problems at all.

Any extra support underneath, or just a regular apron? I'm not particularly worried about the edge (I was considering beveling it from below, similar to Charles' suggestion), but more sufficient stiffness that it won't be too fragile to be moved.

[Richard Coers]

Nothing extra needed underneath. On big chest of drawers, no one uses thick lumber and the 3/4" top does just fine. The center of a table doesn't carry anything heavier than the Thanksgiving turkey. If someone pushes themselves up to get out of a chair, it's over the apron. When I stared woodworking, I built everything heavy. And I see many folks doing that. But I learned fairly early that no one needs their furniture to weight 300 pounds. My dining room table top is 3/4" plywood with a thick rim. It's at least 30 years old now.

[glenn bradley]

For that size, by the time you recess for the aprons I have no issue at all with the thickness.

[Tyler Bancroft]

Thanks for the tips and comments everyone.

[Jim Dwight]

You can stand on a top made of 3/4 hardwood. If you want to prove it to yourself, support a board as far apart as the supports will be on the table and step on it. It will deflect but shouldn't break. Wider will be stronger. So a glued up top will be plenty strong. I plan to build a dining table 10 feet long and will make the top of 3/4 cherry but I will double it around the edges purely for the appearance.

[Mark Bolton]

Any extra support underneath, or just a regular apron? I'm not particularly worried about the edge (I was considering beveling it from below, similar to Charles' suggestion), but more sufficient stiffness that it won't be too fragile to be moved.

Depending on the table design we may have mid stretcher in there but more for apron support and less for the top itself but we will still throw some clips on the mid stretchers. As others have said, a 4/4 top is plenty with regards to strength. The real reason to go thicker is for esthetics.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Locally here we have a company that makes custom dining tables ( $2500 - $7000 price range.) Tops are 3/4 stock, pocket screwed and glued together. Folded edges. The field in between folded edges (on bottom) is 3/4 MDF. Top is attached to MDF with screws in slotted holes Apron is attached to MDF with blocks, and horizontal stretchers. Legs are NOT glued to apron material, but rather held in place with corner blocks and hanger bolts. This means legs can come off for transport.

[johnny means]

Locally here we have a company that makes custom dining tables ( $2500 - $7000 price range.) Tops are 3/4 stock, pocket screwed and glued together. Folded edges. The field in between folded edges (on bottom) is 3/4 MDF. Top is attached to MDF with screws in slotted holes Apron is attached to MDF with blocks, and horizontal stretchers. Legs are NOT glued to apron material, but rather held in place with corner blocks and hanger bolts. This means legs can come off for transport.

Where are you at? I need to come out your way. Sounds like they're making a killing off of some real hackery.

[Andrew Seemann]

I recently did a soft maple 24 x 48 coffee table with a 3/4 top, not much smaller than your table, and have had zero issues with it. I have no doubt that I could set several hundred pounds on it without a problem.