Was it just my imagination?

[Jim Koepke]

Was there a recent post on the "Unicorn Edge" or some such?

Having looked at another forum to see what this was about, it was put on a back burner to give a try.

Finally had a plane blade to give it a try.

It did provide a very good edge able to make an incredibly thin shaving on a piece of pine.

Though there is a possibility this could be done in a way to be detrimental to the edge, like all sharpening that is a matter of the person being in control of things.

My question, was there ever an explanation of choosing "Unicorn Edge" as a name or was it just an obvious choice for the likelihood of ever seeing one?

jtk

[Bill White]

Lots of response to the process. Vids as well. Might wanna check it out when ya have the time.

[Orlando Gonzalez]

It was first called the Weaver Bevel, after David Weaver, who was the one who tried out the concept and posted about it. Later he felt uncomfortable with having his name attached to the concept and proposed the name Unicorn Profile because it was like chasing one and never seeing it. He had also mentioned that carvers may have been using this concept in their sharpening method(s).

+1 on what Bill said.

[Jim Koepke]

Lots of response to the process. Vids as well. Might wanna check it out when ya have the time.

Yes, some of my time was spent watching David's video.

Did someone start a thread on the subject on SMC?

Also, has anyone else here given it a go?

jtk

[David Bassett]

... Did someone start a thread on the subject on SMC? ...

Jim, it's been mentioned (at least) a couple times here:

Bevels (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?284555-Bevels&p=3039869#post3039869)

Pm-v11 at 20* (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?284611-Pm-v11-at-20*&p=3041131#post3041131)

Question re: Power Stropping with a buffing Wheel (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?284764-Question-re-Power-Stropping-with-a-buffing-Wheel&p=3042182#post3042182)

Wheels for Grinder? Gee Whilickers. Which ones? (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?284851-Wheels-for-Grinder-Gee-Whilickers-Which-ones&p=3043004#post3043004)

Derek, in the latest (fourth) link, describes trying it and the success he's had.

I'd suggest the discussion is better not further fragmented. If fact I hope there is a summary article written once all the various research threads run their course. It's really hard to keep track of what works and what doesn't (and when and where) right now.

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks David, it seems like all the threads have been leading to various shades of sharpening lately.

jtk

[scott lipscomb]

There is a good thread on the subject over at the Australian forum under the subforum "sharpening".

[Jim Koepke]

There is a good thread on the subject over at the Australian forum under the subform "sharpening".

Thanks Scott, if time allows me it will be visited.

jtk

[Eric Rathhaus]

Jim - Winston Chang has a great video on using the buffer for the unicorn edge. Here's a link: https://vimeo.com/444232624

[Jim Koepke]

Jim - Winston Chang has a great video on using the buffer for the unicorn edge. Here's a link: https://vimeo.com/444232624

Thanks Eric, instead of watching videos my buffing wheel was set up on my lathe to give this a whirl. Yesterday it was quite successful with a blade from a #3. Today it was tried on a #4-1/2 blade.

The buffing wheel is 6" attached to a block of wood with a carriage bolt. This was done so it would be easy to chuck it up in the lathe.

It is kind of like a super strop.

Since the buffer is a wheel, it would seem it might be creating a micro hollow stropping at the edge of the bevel.

Not a lot of testing or comparison was done. A few shavings were taken with the #4-1/2 revealing a problem with the plane that needs to be addressed.

This would take some time testing and comparing to evaluate. It may be useful for some. For me not having a permanent set up for a buffer, it may be quicker to continue to hone and strop.

jtk

[Andrew Hughes]

I don’t agree with the buffer on a simple straight. The shape is too important the last thing you want is what a buffer delivers. Just a leather strop with good compound is perfectly suitable.
For carving chisels it’s great you want a apple seed edge on one side. So you can scoop out wood.
A buffer is a must have for a spoon knife one still has to be careful not to over do it because it very difficult shallow out the bevel. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

[Eric Rathhaus]

The time savings is one of the advantages for this approach. They only use one medium grit stone, move to the buffer, and get edges that are super sharp and much more durable than sharpening flat.

[Derek Cohen]

I don’t agree with the buffer on a simple straight. The shape is too important the last thing you want is what a buffer delivers. Just a leather strop with good compound is perfectly suitable.
For carving chisels it’s great you want a apple seed edge on one side. So you can scoop out wood.
A buffer is a must have for a spoon knife one still has to be careful not to over do it because it very difficult shallow out the bevel. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

I used a Tormek leather buffing wheel for donkey years, and was never really been happy with the results on anything, especially curved blades, such as gouges. The wheel on the Tormek is hard, covered in leather with little give. The soft, stitched cloth buffing wheel is a different kettle of fish, and a game changer.

I am still experimenting, and want to next try a hard felt wheel, but realise that the technique needs to be adjusted for this.


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Hilton Ralphs]

I am still experimenting, and want to next try a hard felt wheel, but realise that the technique needs to be adjusted for this.


I bought a hard felt (well it felt hard on the pocket at least) buffing wheel from Lee Valley. I'll be trying it this weekend.

[Derek Cohen]

Use a very light touch, Hilton. The hard felt will exert much more buffing force than the stitched wheel.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Hilton Ralphs]

Ta Derek.

Keep well.

[Winston Chang]

I'm obviously biased, but I really suggest taking the time to watch the video. If you prefer just to read, though, I put much of the same information here: https://chisel-test.netlify.app/

Using a buffer to sharpen chisels is now, to me, a no-brainer -- it is better in every way than just using stones. And I no longer feel the need to search for chisels with better steel -- even a very inexpensive chisel sharpened this way holds up much, much better than the most expensive chisel sharpened the "normal" way. That's not a conclusion I expected to reach when I started testing it out, after reading a few posts about it.

With plane blades, more care needs to be taken to avoid clearance issues, and the durability advantage is significantly less than it is for chisels. However, the resulting surface quality is very high due to the smooth uniform edge. I haven't experimented much with plane blades, but David Weaver has, and he has written about it a bit in the WoodCentral forums.

[Eric Rathhaus]

Winston, I really enjoyed your video. The microscopic photos are a great! Bill T also talks about a light buffing on the back as being an antidote to spending time micro-adjusting the cap iron. I'm excited to try it. I've been using microfilm on glass, which is great for a beginner but does grows expensive over time. If I just use one or two grits, then I won't reach a point where staying with this approach is too expensive.

[Derek Cohen]

Regarding working the back, many years ago I recommended this for refreshing BU plane blades with a high micro secondary bevel - simply strop the back. However this was done to remove any wear bevel and not to add a Unicorn bevel. More recently, have buffed Japanese cutting gauge blades this way. Again this was to hone and not to Unicorn, but it works. My concern about any work on the back is that eventually, it is going to end up bevelled.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Clifford McGuire]

I bought a hard felt (well it felt hard on the pocket at least) buffing wheel from Lee Valley. I'll be trying it this weekend.

Looking forward to hearing your results. I have a felt wheel, a 3400K RPM grinder, and block of white buffing compound. I've been wondering if any of these would be useful in trying the unicorn method.

[David Bassett]

Looking forward to hearing your results. I have a felt wheel, a 3400K RPM grinder, and block of white buffing compound. I've been wondering if any of these would be useful in trying the unicorn method.

I've been trying to keep up with all the reports, but....

I think hard felt wheels have had mixed results. If I've kept track correctly, it seems like the preferred soft cotton is more forgiving of technique, but the hard felt works well with a light enough touch.

[Erich Weidner]

I'm obviously biased, but I really suggest taking the time to watch the video. If you prefer just to read, though, I put much of the same information here: https://chisel-test.netlify.app/



Did you do a durability test on the PM-V11? Does the % durability improvement you demonstrated on the video for the Buck Bros. cheapo apply to the PM-V11?
Also curious if you have objective data. (Like BB chisel on stones dulled at 10 pares and lasted 50 with the unicorn method)

Very cool video, thanks for taking the time to put it together. I liked seeing the microscope photos.

[Winston Chang]

Did you do a durability test on the PM-V11? Does the % durability improvement you demonstrated on the video for the Buck Bros. cheapo apply to the PM-V11?
Also curious if you have objective data. (Like BB chisel on stones dulled at 10 pares and lasted 50 with the unicorn method)

Very cool video, thanks for taking the time to put it together. I liked seeing the microscope photos.

Glad you liked it!

I did test a buffed PM-V11 chisel, and the info is on the web page, along with the non-buffed PM-V11, and buffed and unbuffed Buck Bros. The tests on the page were more controlled than what I showed in the video.
https://chisel-test.netlify.app/ (https://chisel-test.netlify.app/#veritas-pm-v11-buffed-bevel)

Like the buffed Buck Bros, the buffed PM-V11 chisel did very well -- basically no visible damage at the end of the test, after chopping 20 pieces of maple.

I didn't have any objective measures of sharpness, just the microscope pictures. I considered getting one of those sharpness testers that measure the pressure needed to cut a piece of thread, but I decided against it for a number of reasons: they're expensive, the cutting pressure probably isn't consistent across a damaged blade so I'd have to take multiple measurements (and the thread is pricey), and I'm sure people would (rightly) complain about the validity of those numbers when it comes to woodworking.

It's hard to say that there's a general percent improvement in durability, because the nature of the damage is different. With the unbuffed Buck Bros chisel, the steel folded over very; with the unbuffed PM-V11, it mostly (micro) chipped; but with the buffed blades, there was no visible damage. However, I could tell that the buffed blades weren't quite as sharp at the end as they were in the beginning, because they didn't shave hair quite as easily. For the buffed blades, I think that they were dulling from abrasion, but at a scale that wasn't visible with my microscope.

About durability: All could easily shave hair at the beginning. The buffed blades could even catch and cut hairs without contacting skin. At the end, the buffed blades could still easily shave hair, but they weren't as crazy sharp as they were at the beginning. The Buck Bros and Veritas unbuffed blades definitely could not shave hair at the end. I happened to try using the Veritas to shave hair after chopping off just 3 (out of the 20) pieces, and it couldn't do it. I didn't check, but I suspect that both unbuffed chisels lost the ability to shave after chopping off just 1 or 2 pieces.

The web site has pictures of each blade as they progressed in the test -- click on "Full Progression" to see it for each one.

One more thing I forgot to mention in the video: if you buff a blade and find that it doesn't last as long as you'd expect, just buff it some more. I find that it's easier to under-buff the blade (so that the edge doesn't hold as well) than it is to over-buff it (so that it starts off feeling not as sharp as it should).

[ken hatch]

Glad you liked it!

I did test a buffed PM-V11 chisel, and the info is on the web page, along with the non-buffed PM-V11, and buffed and unbuffed Buck Bros. The tests on the page were more controlled than what I showed in the video.
https://chisel-test.netlify.app/ (https://chisel-test.netlify.app/#veritas-pm-v11-buffed-bevel)

Like the buffed Buck Bros, the buffed PM-V11 chisel did very well -- basically no visible damage at the end of the test, after chopping 20 pieces of maple.

I didn't have any objective measures of sharpness, just the microscope pictures. I considered getting one of those sharpness testers that measure the pressure needed to cut a piece of thread, but I decided against it for a number of reasons: they're expensive, the cutting pressure probably isn't consistent across a damaged blade so I'd have to take multiple measurements (and the thread is pricey), and I'm sure people would (rightly) complain about the validity of those numbers when it comes to woodworking.

It's hard to say that there's a general percent improvement in durability, because the nature of the damage is different. With the unbuffed Buck Bros chisel, the steel folded over very; with the unbuffed PM-V11, it mostly (micro) chipped; but with the buffed blades, there was no visible damage. However, I could tell that the buffed blades weren't quite as sharp at the end as they were in the beginning, because they didn't shave hair quite as easily. For the buffed blades, I think that they were dulling from abrasion, but at a scale that wasn't visible with my microscope.

About durability: All could easily shave hair at the beginning. The buffed blades could even catch and cut hairs without contacting skin. At the end, the buffed blades could still easily shave hair, but they weren't as crazy sharp as they were at the beginning. The Buck Bros and Veritas unbuffed blades definitely could not shave hair at the end. I happened to try using the Veritas to shave hair after chopping off just 3 (out of the 20) pieces, and it couldn't do it. I didn't check, but I suspect that both unbuffed chisels lost the ability to shave after chopping off just 1 or 2 pieces.

The web site has pictures of each blade as they progressed in the test -- click on "Full Progression" to see it for each one.

One more thing I forgot to mention in the video: if you buff a blade and find that it doesn't last as long as you'd expect, just buff it some more. I find that it's easier to under-buff the blade (so that the edge doesn't hold as well) than it is to over-buff it (so that it starts off feeling not as sharp as it should).

Thank you Winston,

I've been following on "Wood Central" for a couple or three weeks and now have a buffing wheel on the grinder. The findings follow what I've felt for years but had been unable to prove. That edge sharpness depended on the smoothness of the cutting edge more than acuteness (within reason) and a well stropped edge would last longer than one not stropped. Fun in the shop playing with the new buffer to come.

BTW, my approach had been natural stones vs. synthetic to achieve the smooth edge but what you'll have shown is that the stone makes no never mind. It all depends on the stropping/buffing. Life may have just become much less expensive.

ken

[Winston Chang]

I've been following on "Wood Central" for a couple or three weeks and now have a buffing wheel on the grinder. The findings follow what I've felt for years but had been unable to prove. That edge sharpness depended on the smoothness of the cutting edge more than acuteness (within reason) and a well stropped edge would last longer than one not stropped. Fun in the shop playing with the new buffer to come.

BTW, my approach had been natural stones vs. synthetic to achieve the smooth edge but what you'll have shown is that the stone makes no never mind. It all depends on the stropping/buffing. Life may have just become much less expensive.



How is the buffing working for you?

I've spent several hours this weekend grinding tools to a lower angle, honing them, then buffing them. I'm now able to use only a 1000 grit stone for chisels, and additionally a 6000 grit (Sigma Power Ceramic) for plane irons. Definitely a lot cheaper than getting into Japanese natural stones!

[ken hatch]

How is the buffing working for you?

I've spent several hours this weekend grinding tools to a lower angle, honing them, then buffing them. I'm now able to use only a 1000 grit stone for chisels, and additionally a 6000 grit (Sigma Power Ceramic) for plane irons. Definitely a lot cheaper than getting into Japanese natural stones!

Winston,

I've just started playing with chisels, have not worked with plane irons yet. First go, I've found just what you'll have found. It is very quick to a sharp long lasting edge. I have not tested extensively but after chopping some 1" Beech for 10 or so chops I could see no damage under a 10X loupe. BTW, this has got me off my butt and I ordered a microscope to get a better look.

Yeah, I just received a new JNAT last week. Oh well, it sure is pretty.

ken

[Winston Chang]

My microscope gave me a new level of understanding about sharpening and how edges get damaged. And it was only $75 for that education. I think you'll find your microscope to be enlightening as well.

Well, you can still use your Jnats to put a nice hazy kasumi finish on your tools. :D

[Jim Matthews]

I don’t agree with the buffer on a simple straight. The shape is too important the last thing you want is what a buffer delivers.

I had similar doubts, hearing about this.

I was taught to freehand hone convex bevels on chisels and plane irons. This approach saves a few steps.
It seems to work. The time savings are considerable.

I can't manage the same results on plane irons as chisels but I have an example from the source of this idea - I know it is possible.

I think it might bridge the chasm for those starting out, but users who already have sharp tools might not want to "retrace their steps".

[Ted Calver]

Excellent video, Winston! Anyone have a link to a good microscope? I'm looking for something better than my 10x loupe.

[Winston Chang]

Anyone have a link to a good microscope? I'm looking for something better than my 10x loupe.

This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/AmScope-M150C-I-40X-1000X-Biological-Microscope/dp/B00AM5XB5O

[Ted Calver]

This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/AmScope-M150C-I-40X-1000X-Biological-Microscope/dp/B00AM5XB5O

Thanks, Winston. That one looks nice for my purposes. Mind also sharing which camera you used?

[Mike Brady]

Not to rain on the parade, but sharpening a chisel with the buffer is a good way to end up with the chisel imbedded in your face.

[Winston Chang]

Thanks, Winston. That one looks nice for my purposes. Mind also sharing which camera you used?

I just used my phone (iPhone 11 Pro) and got a microscope mount for it.

This is the mount. Whereas the microscope itself seemed like a bargain -- $75 for a real microscope, not a kid's toy -- this mount seems overpriced, at $26 for some plastic. But it does the job and it doesn't look like there are a lot of other options.
https://www.amazon.com/Gosky-Microscope-Adapter-Smartphone-Adaptor/dp/B07412S738

[ken hatch]

I had similar doubts, hearing about this.

I was taught to freehand hone convex bevels on chisels and plane irons. This approach saves a few steps.
It seems to work. The time savings are considerable.

I can't manage the same results on plane irons as chisels but I have an example from the source of this idea - I know it is possible.

I think it might bridge the chasm for those starting out, but users who already have sharp tools might not want to "retrace their steps".

Jim,

I've questioned my sanity for even wandering down this path but early results tell me that it might not be so dumb.

For the person just starting or struggling with sharpening it could be one of those techniques that are life changing. Now my question is what do I do with all my stones when all I need is a Med India or a Washita. Winston's use of a cordless drill to buff was really an inspiration, it could mean when I'm traveling with the portable bench all the sharpening gear I need is the same India or Washita and a buffing wheel to go on the cordless drill.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

it could mean when I'm traveling with the portable bench all the sharpening gear I need is the same India or Washita and a buffing wheel to go on the cordless drill.

Don't forget a battery charger for the cordless drill.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Don't forget a battery charger for the cordless drill.

jtk


Jim,

LOL, it lives in the motorhome along with the drill :). But it would be just like me to leave it behind.

ken

[Todd Zucker]

Great video. I had been reading all of the different threads on both forums over the past couple of weeks, but that put it all together. I finally have some free time, and I’m going to try it this weekend.

[Jim Koepke]

My question is what will the edge profile look like after resharpening (reunicorning?) 10 or 20 times?

Time may turn this into a new revolution for woodworking or it may just be another way to get something sharp.

There won't be any hurry to sell my stones. If some nice ones come up for sale, maybe some more will be purchased.

jtk

[Winston Chang]

My question is what will the edge profile look like after resharpening (reunicorning?) 10 or 20 times?

Every time you sharpen, your hone the flat part of the bevel until you get a burr, so it removes the tiny rounded portion every time. (This takes about the same amount of time effort as resharpening a normally-sharpened chisel to remove all the damage, maybe slightly more.) So it should look the same on the 20th time as it does on the first.

[Jim Koepke]

Every time you sharpen, your hone the flat part of the bevel until you get a burr, so it removes the tiny rounded portion every time. (This takes about the same amount of time effort as resharpening a normally-sharpened chisel to remove all the damage, maybe slightly more.) So it should look the same on the 20th time as it does on the first.

Estimating from your image:

439065

That looks like it could be almost 5/10,000" of metal to remove. It doesn't sound like a lot, but it is likely more than my normal sharpening of a flat bevel without a secondary bevel.

It may be saving a few minutes at one end of the process and adding it back at the other end.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Estimating from your image:

439065

That looks like it could be almost 5/10,000" of metal to remove. It doesn't sound like a lot, but it is likely more than my normal sharpening of a flat bevel without a secondary bevel.

It may be saving a few minutes at one end of the process and adding it back at the other end.

jtk

Jim,

First let me say I'm not completely sold on the buffing process but early tests tell me it is likely to offer value in both time saved and longevity of the cutting edge. If you are like me my sharpening is a three step process, first grind to get rid of the wear, hone to lessen the scratches left by grinding, and finally polishing to refine the cutting edge. The Unicorn process cuts out the honing stage and goes directly to the polishing stage and that is quickly done with the buffer, much faster than working the edge with a slow polishing stone. In addition the buffer slightly increases the cutting angle without decreasing sharpness and gives a smoother cutting edge than just a polishing stone. A lot of win, win if indeed it works as advertised. So far my test indicate it does. That said my honing and polishing stones are not for sale...yet.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

If you are like me my sharpening is a three step process, first grind to get rid of the wear, hone to lessen the scratches left by grinding, and finally polishing to refine the cutting edge.

My first step on a blade is rarely grinding. More often it is on a hard Arkansas followed by black Arkansas then a strop. This usually takes less time than setting up the grinder. If using water stones it is often a 4000 stone followed by an 8000 and a strop. Of course if the edge has heavy chipping from hitting a knot then the work may be started on a coarser stone.

Also from Winston's page > https://chisel-test.netlify.app <:


I actually ran two tests with a stropped chisel. With the first test, I didn’t get quite the edge durability that I had hoped for, so I honed it and stropped it again, but this time I slathered on more of the green compound, and I stropped more times – maybe 20 or so.

The result: it held up almost as well as when buffed. It’s possible that more stropping, or stropping at a higher angle, would have done better, but I don’t know for sure. It’s still miles ahead of the flat-honed chisel, and close enough to the buffed chisel that I think it’s a usable alternative.

It seems maybe regular sharpening followed by stropping will also produce an edge as good as the unicorn edge.

jtk

[Tom Trees]

Jim,

LOL, it lives in the motorhome along with the drill :). But it would be just like me to leave it behind.

ken

Those black abrasion marks are from when I applied the Autosol on the fan belt Doc, and
the slice came from a new bevel technique that I was reading about on t'internet...

No I wasn't in any sort of fight club scenario, Honest!

[Gary Focht]

“ My first step on a blade is rarely grinding. More often it is on a hard Arkansas followed by black Arkansas then a strop. This usually takes less time than setting up the grinder. If using water stones it is often a 4000 stone followed by an 8000 and a strop. Of course if the edge has heavy chipping from hitting a knot then the work may be started on a coarser stone.”

Jim,

The unicorn would be the occasional grind to 20 degrees or so, only when necessary. Typically you would hone a secondary bevel of 23 degrees on a 1000 grit and then buff. So most sharpenings are a 1000 grit until a burr, then buff if I understand it. This would be faster than the routine of 4000, 8000, strop.

[ken hatch]

Those black abrasion marks are from when I applied the Autosol on the fan belt Doc, and
the slice came from a new bevel technique that I was reading about on t'internet...

No I wasn't in any sort of fight club scenario, Honest!

Tom,

Too funny :).

ken

[ken hatch]

We may have a failure to communicate.

I do not consider using a 1000 grit or lower stone as honing. MY normal grinding stone is a Med or Course India and sometimes a Washita depending on how deep the ware or if there is damage. The power grinder seldom comes out to play and I really do not consider using it as grinding but as bevel profiling.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

We may have a failure to communicate.

Which leads to a failure to understand… Many of us are not set up with the luxury of having a permanent buffing station. Many folks may not even have regular access to a power grinder. For many years all my sharpening was done by hand on various honing stones and abrasive sheets.

However the unicorn edge method works out for folks, it is still only a different way to get to a sharpened edge for working wood.

Certainly some will love it as much as sharpening on diamond stones and creating a convex bevel as Paul Sellers once demonstrated.

Others will continue with what has worked for them over the years.

Then there will be some who will glean a bit of information to modify their current methods to improve the edge on a blade.

Life goes on…

jtk

[ken hatch]

Which leads to a failure to understand… Many of us are not set up with the luxury of having a permanent buffing station. Many folks may not even have regular access to a power grinder. For many years all my sharpening was done by hand on various honing stones and abrasive sheets.

However the unicorn edge method works out for folks, it is still only a different way to get to a sharpened edge for working wood.

Certainly some will love it as much as sharpening on diamond stones and creating a convex bevel as Paul Sellers once demonstrated.

Others will continue with what has worked for them over the years.

Then there will be some who will glean a bit of information to modify their current methods to improve the edge on a blade.

Life goes on…

jtk

Jim,

I think that is where I will be in the end.

ken

[Thomas Wilson]

I just used my phone (iPhone 11 Pro) and got a microscope mount for it.

This is the mount. Whereas the microscope itself seemed like a bargain -- $75 for a real microscope, not a kid's toy -- this mount seems overpriced, at $26 for some plastic. But it does the job and it doesn't look like there are a lot of other options.
https://www.amazon.com/Gosky-Microscope-Adapter-Smartphone-Adaptor/dp/B07412S738

Thanks Winston for posting the methods of sharpening and the microscopic photography that showed us all what is happening at the edge. The equipment you chose for the test is reasonably priced for an interested hobbyist like me. Your video show how useful the equipment can be.

Have you seen James Wright’s chisel test? He compared chisel brands but he has some good testing methods for edge retention also. He used a homemade slide hammer to strike the chisels with a calibrated force and counted the blows to cut through test material. He used a Edge On Up sharpness tester to measure sharpness before and after. It is not a metrology lab but it is good kitchen science. Both you and he are setting a good example for how to introduce quantitative methods into things like sharpening that have relied on feel, intuition, and personal anecdote.

For those who have not seen, James Wright’s (woodbywrighr dot com) chisel test methods are here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9disAh4up4).