veneering with hide glue

[Eric John]

gmorning everyone,

Ive been working on using hide glue more when i do veneering and i like it.
one of the difficulties i have been having, is when bookmatching.
i tried to glue down a book match and the seam swelled and came up like a tent.
i can only think of two ways to approach this, and im not sure which will yield better results.
1 do you lay it down one piece at a time and hope you can put the leaves tightly together?
or 2 overlap them a bit then slice down overlap, remove the cutoffs then re hammer it down.

how do the guys n the know do it?

regards eric

[Ralph Boumenot]

You have to apply hide glue to both sides of it. Patrick Edwards has some short videos on how to do it.

[Phil Mueller]

I get the seam perfect, then veneer tape it together. The veneer tape will shrink slightly when it dries pulling the seams together extra tight. Are you taping (veneer tape) the two pieces together prior to gluing?

[John Jardin]

Eric,
blue tape and white veneer tape are your friends.
After you carefully joint the 2 matching edges, tape them together on the glue face side.
Turn over the veneer and apply white veneer tape on the face side. Now remove the blue tape on the glue side and apply glue.
I've switched over to Titebond III with good results438190

[Mike Henderson]

Depending on the veneer, any glue with water in it can cause the veneer to swell and cause you problems. With commercial glues, such as Titebond, we usually put glue only on the substrate and get the veneer into press before it absorbs water and swells. With hot hide glue you can't work that quickly so the veneer is going to absorb moisture.

Doing a starburst pattern with a rotary cut veneer and hot hide glue would probably require some special techniques.

I haven't done much veneering with hot hide glue but I suppose I'd start from the glue line and work outward.

Mike

Mike

[richard poitras]

2 overlap them a bit then slice down overlap, remove the cutoffs then re hammer it down.

[Thomas McCurnin]

+1 on Veneer Tape. That's why they invented the stuff. Pre-soak and flatten the pieces in glycerine.

The other thing I do, which is not on any video is clamp that mother down for 15-30 minutes, then un-clamp it and check alignment, wipe off excess glue from the top, and add new wax paper. Then clamp that rascal down for at least a day, often two days. I wish I had a veneer bag and vacuum compressor.

[Robert LaPlaca]

Some hammer veneering tips from Rob Millard, Rob builds federal furniture and is a member of SAPFM.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZkrLrGifW08&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZkrLrGifW08&feature=youtu.be)

https://youtu.be/nu-Ay55Pb5I