Why not poly?

[Randall Kline]

I'm relatively new to woodworking, and I've always used wipe on poly (Olympic or Minwax) on everything I've done. I've found that three to four coats, sanding between each with increasing fineness and polishing with automobile rubbing compound I get a nice, hard finish. My question is, what's the difference between doing that and using varnish or some "special recipe" like Sam Maloof's finishes? Is there really much of a benefit, or is it just personal preference?

[Jim Becker]

Poly IS varnish. Polyurethane is just one of the three resins used to make oil-based varnish. The other two are alkyd (example: Pratt and Lambert #38) and phenolic. (Example: Waterlox) They are ALL varnishes which merely are a combination of an oil (usually BLO, but sometimes soya (P&L #38) or Tung (Waterlox), a resin and some other things that are all cooked together until they form a completely different stuff called "Varnish".

Soya oil-based products generally are lighter in color than BLO based products. They are ALL durable, but have slightly different properties. As I mentioned in my post above, polyurethane's one property is that is slightly more "abrasion resistant" than the other two common varieties of varnish and is a good choice for a kitchen table top. It's actually a little software than the others as a trade off to that property. But it's not necessary for everything, as the marketers will have you believe (and the store shelves since that's what is on most of the mass-marketers' shelves). Alkyd and Phenolic based varnishes often give you a "clearer" film; many polys appear a "little plastic" to my eyes.

The Maloof finish is just a combination of varnish and oil...

This is all personal preference...I generally don't use poly unless there is a specific pointed need for it. 'Just don't like the look.

[Howard Acheson]

Let me add that wipe-on poly varnish is nothing more than a thinned standard varnish. You can make your own by mixing varnish and mineral spirits in a 50/50 ratio. The only real difference is that you need to apply more coats of the wipe-on varnish to get the same film thickness as when you brush on a full strength varnish. Once the thinners evaporate, both wipe-on varnish and brushed are varnish are the same.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

To use or not use poly is a personal preference.

I don't use much of it anymore as I LIKE the FEEL of the wood with 6-8 coats of French Polish. I know it's not as tolerant a finish as poly, but most of my pieces, with the exception of Kaleidoscopes, Pens, and the like, do not get a lot of handling. With regards to pens, I want and tell my customers that over time the color will age with the oils from their skin. It makes the pen just that much more personal.

I'm NOT trying to disuade you from using Poly, just telling you about an alternative.

If it looks good to you, it probably looks GREAT to everyone else!

Bruce

[Randall Kline]

Thanks for the corrections and explanations. I didn't realize that all of those different finishes were different varieties of varnish. That's very interesting. I do agree that poly looks pretty plastic. I've been curious about trying a different finish, and topping it off with wax to get a nice feel to it. Your comments have certainly encouraged me to branch out. Thanks!! :)

[Randall Kline]

** They are ALL varnishes which merely are a combination of an oil (usually BLO, but sometimes soya (P&L #38) or Tung (Waterlox), a resin and some other things that are all cooked together until they form a completely different stuff called "Varnish".
** The Maloof finish is just a combination of varnish and oil...


Question: If varnish is a combination that already includes oil, why would the Maloof finish include more oil?

[Steve Schoene]

Question: If varnish is a combination that already includes oil, why would the Maloof finish include more oil?

Varnish was manufactured with oil, there is a chemical reaction between it and resin with varnish the resulting product. The Maloof finish is just a simple mix including varnish and oil--no reaction. As a consequence the varnish/oil mix cures softer than the varnish mix.

[Randall Kline]

Varnish was manufactured with oil, there is a chemical reaction between it and resin with varnish the resulting product. The Maloof finish is just a simple mix including varnish and oil--no reaction. As a consequence the varnish/oil mix cures softer than the varnish mix.

Thanks Steve. That makes sense. :)