Lock Miter Router Bit Questions

[Joshua Bass]

I am in the market for my first 45deg Lock Miter Router bit and at first I was dead set on getting the Whiteside bit, but after watching some videos and doing more research I discovered Whiteside does not offer a setup block or gauge for their bits. Other companies offer these, so I was wondering if it is worth going for a lesser bit but spending more overall to have the setup block/guage? Or is the straight edge method good enough to provide alignment.

Infinity sells a gauge that at least appears to make setup foolproof, but it could just be a good marketing video.

Whiteside ~$80 on sale
Infinity ~$80 not on sale + $34 for setup guage = $114

Thoughts or experiences with the above bits or others?

[Eric Arnsdorff]

I’m looking for one as well. I was considering buying the Infinity gage and bit.

[Michelle Rich]

I have the infinity with the gauge. worth every penny. those bits will drive you nuts, trying to get them set right.

[glenn bradley]

I am a diehard Whiteside fan but, Infinity cutters are top notch too. I just do a pass or two with an identically milled piece of scrap to setup but, folks that use the little gauge are big fans. Getting a good result with these bits is about stock control. Your material's variances (if any) or the feed path variances (if any) are telegraphed to the quality of the joint's fit.

[Jim Becker]

I bought the Infinity and the setting gage. I haven't actually used it other than experimentally. To be most effective I need to build a jig to hold the parts optimally and it hasn't been a priority for me.

[David Powell]

The Infinity setup gauge works well; as Michelle stated these bits are a pain in the backside to use. By the way, the setup gauge was invented by fellow Creeker Alan Schaffter.

[John Jardin]

I agree with Glenn, Stock must be milled accurately.
I have the Whiteside bit for 3/4 thick stock. My material was 13/16 which made it even more of a challenge.

[Mike O'Keefe]

I got one from MCLS. Mike O'Keefe

[Stan Calow]

This from Glenn: ". . . or the feed path variances (if any) are telegraphed to the quality of the joint's fit." Even if you get the setup right, this is where my failures have been. You need a pretty solid jig setup to move the end grain on a relatively narrow workpiece evenly across the bit without it rotating slightly as the bit catches it or pushes it out.

[Art Mann]

I would not assume that a setup block will negate the need for trial cuts and fittings and the requirement for absolute consistency of the stock material. I have had a great deal of experience with making boxes with these bits and the setup block is just a starting point.

[Jack Frederick]

Bits aside I am curious about how you build the jig to control or index the material to the bits. What do they look like?

[Stan Calow]

Jack, I'm hoping someone has a good jig design. Drawer sides are usually long and narrow, so the cut face is small and sensitive to movement. For the piece flat on the table (horizontal) I'm thinking something like a coping sled, but robust enough to hold a long and relatively narrow workpiece perpendicular to the bit, but with workpiece flat on the table, not raised off it by the sled (so no impact on indexing). I've jerry-rigged two long sacrificial boards with the workpiece flat between them, and de-sta-co clamps to hold it down. Its the vertical piece that is more troublesome. A zero-clearance tall fence on the router fence, and a sled with the workpiece in front and sacrificial boards on both sides, all clamped. But keeping those sleds moving smoothly with no twist or turn or lean is the problem I've had.

[Brad Shipton]

I built a jig similar to David Best's setup at the link below. I built some drawers a couple cabinets, and decided on different joinery as the setup time was not great. I am sure others like it fine, but my jig collects dust.

http://davidpbest.com/VA/StonehorseShop/LockMiter%20Photos/LockMiterJig.htm

[Mike Cutler]

Without being long winded, I have the Whiteside 45 degree lock miter, and have never liked it. Mine is a two wing design, probably 20 years old. I also have Alan's setup gauge for it which works wonderfully. Both have been gathering dust for many years, as I use a shaper to cut the lock miters when I need to.
To set one up does require a little bit of trial and error. But,,,,, the basic geometric form you are dealing with is an right triangle. Once you get the setup for a perfect 3/4", or 4/4, use a dial indicator and measure from the top of the bit to set the height, and from a known point on the outer circumference to set the depth. Once you have these numbers, it is simple math to set the cutter up for any other size and be within a few thousandths, before the first test cut. It's just triangle math. Keep a book of notes on setups for differing material thicknesses and most of the trial and error is diminished significantly.
The reason I have never liked the Whiteside, and it could be just the design, is that there is a lot of forces at play here, and that bit has a tendency to force material up and away from it. The material needs a carrier sled to be safely worked
If you get more positive reviews for the infinity, go with that one.

[Harold Patterson]

The biggest problem with this bit I that there is a knife edge that runs against the out-feed side of the fence. A sled would definitely help especially for the horizontal cut.

[Dave Sabo]

The infinity setup gauge is quite helpful, but it’s not foolproof and not quite plug and play either.

That said, it’s better than a setup block because it’ll work on any bit with any thickness material. The matched setup blocks only work for that bit and thickness. As already mentioned , consistent and accurate stock prep is crucial for the Infinity jig too.

You’re still likely to have to tweak the fence with the infiniTy jig to get a perfect joint, but it will get you there quicker and with less test cuts.

[Mel Fulks]

The biggest problem with this bit I that there is a knife edge that runs against the out-feed side of the fence. A sled would definitely help especially for the horizontal cut.

I have always just left a small flat instead of running to a pointed edge. Then ,after gluing and sanding , I sand the sharp corners off
by hand.

[Warren Lake]

old guys I knew just cut a mitre then put a slot in each piece then a spline. Thats how they were taught. Mel whats your thinking of sitting back a bit, that the sharp point is too delicate or.

[Mike Cutler]

old guys I knew just cut a mitre then put a slot in each piece then a spline. That's how they were taught. Mel whats your thinking of sitting back a bit, that the sharp point is too delicate or.

Warren.
The edge is definitely fragile. It's essentially a knife edge in wood. Trying to use it as the reference edge for joint doesn't work out well.
I used a carrier sled that referenced the top of the sled to the fence and table, and thus protected the edge of the miter joint. That was many years ago though.
I was making Stickley style chair legs, and costumers at that time. 4 pieces of qsawn oak, glued together to present qsawn on all four sides.They were pretty, but a pain in the butt to make. ;)
I know the folks are making 90 degree joints with it now. I've never done that, personally. All of mine were long grain, edge, glueups in the form of "posts".

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Joshua, once you have the bit, make your own sample block out of wood...........Regards, Rod.

[Rod Sheridan]

old guys I knew just cut a mitre then put a slot in each piece then a spline. Thats how they were taught. Mel whats your thinking of sitting back a bit, that the sharp point is too delicate or.

Hi Warren, I have that cutter for my shaper, the edge is delicate.

Once setup it works great however I'm not convinced that what I do it's worth the bother. I can simply veneer a leg blank much easier, especially since as a hobby user I'm only making a few legs.....Rod.

[Warren Lake]

Dont have a problem with the edge. Ive laid back before on it as a fair bit of my work was rounded so it gets erased anyway. If left sharp edges as well with no issue. 45 degree cutter high speed steel on the shaper cuts clean. There is more tension release on material if you rip a 45 on a saw than if you do the on a shaper. Ive done enough just 45 with no spline but good clamping block set up and it works well but more care needed. Also the folding and packing tape on MDF.

Joe has a you tube on those cutters and runs some material.

[Mel Fulks]

Warren, Yeah the sharp point serves no purpose . I leave about 1/32" ,with that I never have tear out on the edge.
I also use 3/8 round over climb cut on the inside corners to eliminate any tear out from the mitre cutter. Without that
roundover you can have big strips of wood flying off.
I've never used the router bits ,only the aprox. 4 inch diameter shaper cutter

[Dave Sabo]

once you have the bit, make your own sample block out of wood


Sure , you can do that.

But chances are you’re going to have different thicknesses that would necessitate multiple setup blocks. 3/4” stock isn’t always 3/4” exactly.

[Thomas McCurnin]

It sounds like you are joining leg parts so that QS figures are showing on all four sides. I have done this and it is a pain.

You will need multiple set up parts and multiple home made set up gauges.

I bought popular milled to the exact dimensions of the QS Oak, and used that for test pieces and set up. Adjust the bit, run the stock, adjust the bit, run the stock, get it sort of right, make a set up gauge, run the other half, realize that I was off by a 1/16th,re- adjust the bit, re-run the first piece, make another set up gauge, re-run the 2nd piece and make a trial fit. Rinse and Repeat if necessary.

Once I had it dialed with the popular, I ran the oak. Having multiple router tables with two bits would have been really nice. If you are a FWW Premium member, the technique is detailed in an article by Patrick Nelson FWW No. 121–Nov/Dec 1996.

This is very fussy work, something that I seemed to enjoy at the time.

Another way of doing this is to apply 1/16th" QS veneer and chamfering the edges. I have not used that technique, but I know it exists. If you are a member of Fine Woodworking Premium Plan, the plan is detailed in FWW Aug 07, 2012 by Gregory Paolini. It might be free since it is a video. It utilizes three QS sandwiches and two veneers covering the edge gain of the sandwiches.