Framing Basement Shop

[John Leech]

Now that all the outdoor projects have been done this summer and the weather has turned downright oppressive, it's time to complete the indoor projects. My hope is to frame out the walls in my tiny basement shop. I've heard that the 'best' way to do this would be adhere rigid insulation to the foundation, followed by 2x4 framing with fiberglass insulation, and plywood/OSB for the walls. My problem with this method is that I'll be giving up close to 5 inches on each wall, shrinking my shop even further. In my research I came across this method from the This Old House crew:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKQdo88Ne74

The method attaches 2 inches of rigid insulation to the foundation followed by attaching horizontal furring strips to the foundation by driving 4 inch spring nails through the strips and insulation into the foundation. The paneling is then attached to the furring strips. On the surface this is a quick, effective, and cheaper alternative as it accomplishes several goals that I have in mind. First it saves space in the shop and allows flexibility in the future. The idea is to run electric through conduit that will be attached to the paneling. Should I decide to rearrange the shop, the conduit can be easily rerun. Likewise, I can also hang shelves and cabinets easily since the walls will be plywood. My major sticking point (beyond is this a wise way to go about doing it this way, of course) is how much weight I can safely attach to a wall held with spring nails. In other words, if I attach a cabinet that weighs say 100 pounds will this be supported? 200 pounds? What's the limit?

Thanks for your time,
John

[Jim Becker]

The TOH method should be more than adequate for a basement, IMHO. If you are doing horizontal furring, be sure that you carefully locate them so you can securely attach French Cleats to them to support cabinets or screw/bolt the cabinets directly to the furring strips. Remember that the load is placed horizontally, too, not just vertically. If you are truly concerned, while it would make a break in the insulation, you could place a two-by cleat up on the wall at the appropriate height to hang your cabinets using masonry nails or tapcons and go from there.

[Terry Wawro]

There is a product called InSoFast. It combines the insulation with the furring strips and channels for wires. About 4 years ago I finished our basement using the conventional 2x4 walls and fiberglass insulation. If I had to do it again, I'd us the InSoFast system. It would be much faster, better and when I ran the figures, almost the same price of the old way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWK-LNMD61Q

[Bill Dufour]

I assume you have a damp climate. I would waterproof the concrete before attaching anything permanent to it. Carefully consider where the vapor barrier in the wall should be or even if there should be one or not. Consider cutting up the floor and installing a drain inside to collect any seepage before you do the wall. Any chance of a gravity drain for the basement instead of a pump?
Do you really need insulation in your climate? I thought Missouri was not too cold in winter. Check the cold water temperature summer and winter to get an idea of how basement temperatures will be.
Bil lD

[Jack Frederick]

I would clean and etch (I use UGL) followed by white paint. Take the savings and buy a mini-split to handle humidity, H&C.

[Tom Bain]

The method attaches 2 inches of rigid insulation to the foundation followed by attaching horizontal furring strips to the foundation by driving 4 inch spring nails through the strips and insulation into the foundation. The paneling is then attached to the furring strips. On the surface this is a quick, effective, and cheaper alternative as it accomplishes several goals that I have in mind. First it saves space in the shop and allows flexibility in the future. The idea is to run electric through conduit that will be attached to the paneling. Should I decide to rearrange the shop, the conduit can be easily rerun. Likewise, I can also hang shelves and cabinets easily since the walls will be plywood. My major sticking point (beyond is this a wise way to go about doing it this way, of course) is how much weight I can safely attach to a wall held with spring nails. In other words, if I attach a cabinet that weighs say 100 pounds will this be supported? 200 pounds? What's the limit?

Thanks for your time,
John

I implemented a variation of this approach in my basement. I used 2x (rather than 1x) material for the furring strips and attached them to the foundation with long tapcons. It takes more time but I could hang anything on the walls. I also put 1.5” rigid foam between the furring strips in addition to the rigid foam behind the furring strips, which increases the overall R-value of the “wall” assembly.

[mike stenson]

I implemented a variation of this approach in my basement. I used 2x (rather than 1x) material for the furring strips and attached them to the foundation with long tapcons. It takes more time but I could hang anything on the walls. I also put 1.5” rigid foam between the furring strips in addition to the rigid foam behind the furring strips, which increases the overall R-value of the “wall” assembly.

We furred out and insulated exterior single layer brick walls using that same method. It works really quite well.

[Ron Selzer]

insofast looks like a good system
first thing to do is to tape visqueen to the wall in a couple of different places , top to bottom at least 4 ' wide, tape all sides.
tape at at least 4'x4' pieces to the floor in a couple of places
check the visqueen over a period of at least a week for moisture between it and the wall/floor
IF none and it has rained at least twice good or more then you have a dry basement and can proceed to cover the walls up.
IF moisture appears then you need to investigate further what to do to get a dry basement

my house was built with a spray on coating on the outside of the block, 2" rigid fiberglass outside on the wall, drain tile inside and outside going to a sump pit.I coated the walls with a cement paint to seal the inside
then for the lived in part 2x4 walls with fiberglass. In the shop section nothing on the interior walls
I did paint the shop floor, should have painted all the basement floor instead of installing inexpensive wood floor in the lived in section

As to yours I would glue rigid foam to the walls and then cover with plywood screwed with Tapcons thru the foam to the block, good insulation value with the flexibility plywood gives you for the walls.
French cleats screwed with tapcons long enough to penetrate the block at least an inch to hand cabinets.
Good luck
Ron

[John Leech]

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. I'm pretty sure that other than normal humidity the basement is dry, but have taped clear plastic to the walls and will leave it there for several days before I proceed. My modified plan is to follow Ron's suggestion and to seal with Drylok, glue 2 inch rigid foam, OSB and 3 3/4" tapcons. I'm operating under the assumption that 1 1/4" penetration into the foundation will be enough to support the panels. I guess the only remaining question is how many tapcons to use per 4x8 sheet of OSB

John

[Ron Selzer]

at least 28
16" on center both ways

[Tom Bain]

Personally, I think it's much easier to install furring strips with the tapcons and then screw the OSB to the furring strips. Drilling all those tapcons for direct attachment of the OSB is going to be a slog.

[Roger Feeley]

When they built my house, they had to insulate the basement for the inspectors. It was foil covered and in these huge blankets. The builder said that most folks tear the insulation out the day after the inspection. Sheesh! I called it Jiffy Pop.

i wanted walls where I could hang anything anywhere. Working my way around the basement I fastened 2x4s to the wall and filled in between by cutting up the blankets into strips. I screwed OSB to the 2x4s leaving a bit of a gap at the top and bottom for air. I did about 100 linear feet that way. It’s been great. I love being able to drive a screw.

The only place I painted is behind the wood lathe. It gave me a bit more light and provided contrast with the work being turned.

The other thing I did that I really like involves 50’ beam going down the middle. I used construction adhesive to attach some 2x4 blocks to the web of the beam. Then I screwed OSB strips to the blocks. It meant I could hang stuff from the sides of the beam.

I should add that I decided to make just about everything visible in my shop. There are almost no closed cabinets or drawers. I have shelves but none are deeper than 10” with the exception of two wire shelf units for cans of finish. I haven’t regretted the decision once. I had the standard hand-me-down kitchen cabinets in my last shop and stuff disappeared.

[Tom Bender]

Here in Michigan my basement shop has no insulation and it's fine. Adding any insulation will be plenty for your area.

You could install 2 x 2 studs against the wall, install 3/4" foam between, then whatever wallboard. This will leave space for wiring and water and compressed air if you want to go that way.

OSB or plywood is going to look depressing. Drywall can be painted and will look good. Yes you may have to make repairs but that's easy.