Cordless drill is destroying my drill bits

[Ben Zara]

I chucked up a Freud 5/8 Forstner bit in my press today (which I rarely use) and noticed the bit was spinning wonky. On inspection I found that the shaft had a serious gouge and that metal had been peeled away. A quick inspection of my other drill bits found similar gouges but not as severe.

So first off, dammit dammit dammit. Mucho dinero just went out the window.

But second, I can't seem to replicate these issues with my two hand drills and it has to be them because I haven't used most of these bits in my press. I'm pretty sure it's my Bosch 12v cause I use that one the most. I'm gutted right now cause I gotta replace the bits but I'd rather just replace the one culprit drill instead of two.

Any idea what causes this? Chuck slippage? I just don't know.436726

[Jamie Buxton]

You don't need throw that dinero out the window. Use a metal file to remove the metal pimple. It will take you a minute or two. The bit will work fine afterwards.

[mike stenson]

The bit is slipping. File the burr and clean the chuck.

[Doug Garson]

Agree with Jaime, clean the shaft up with a file and and some emory paper and it will be good as new. The probable cause is a combination not tightening the chuck adequately and too aggressive feed rate which makes the bit slip in the chuck causing the damage.

[Ben Zara]

Thanks, I'll get filing.

[Bill Dufour]

Or use a stone to take down a smaller burr. This is why I prefer big bits with a triangular or hex shank. You may want to remove the chuck and take it apart to clean it if it is stiff. Even just dipping in solvent and running it open and shut a few times may be enough. A standard Jacobs chuck is easy enough to take apart but keyless chucks take some thinking to take apart.
Bill D

[Thomas McCurnin]

Happens to me weekly. And the cordless drill, in my case a DeWalt, does it. I happen to use 80g garnet sandpaper. Grab one end with a gloved hand and roll the shank onto the sandpaper.

[glenn bradley]

A fine file will solve the blemish. Proper chuck torque on the bit will solve the slipping. I have a few keyless chucks including one on my drill press. The only one I had slipping trouble with was a newer DeWalt. It lacked the ratcheting feature that some keyless chucks have. My older DeWalt's as well as the newer Makitas all have some sort of a stop, then click-even-tighter feature on the chucks. My old Ridgids just grip like an alligator. Every brand has their stand-outs and their also-rans I guess.

[michael langman]

If your drill chuck uses a chuck key then tighten your chuck in at least 2 but 3 is better of the holes the key goes into, in the chuck. This will assure complete tightening of the drill in the chuck.

Never bottom out the drill in the bottom of the chuck when inserting and tightening the chuck. This could cause misalignment of the drill in the chuck and cause slippage. Hold the drill facing you, or sideways as if you while tightening the chuck that does not use a chuck key. You will have more and better leverage on the chuck while tightening it, then if the drill was facing away from you.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Yep, cordless drills use keyless Jacobs chucks resulting in uneven pressure and resulting burrs.

[Ole Anderson]

With the burr that far down the shaft, I would chuck it in the DP, take a file to it while spinning. Bam, you are good to go.

[Robert Engel]

This is why so many bit kits have hex shanks.

[Vince Shriver]

I always replace my drill bits in the index box after use. When the bit refuses to drop in to its designated hole, I know it's time to brake out a file and remove the burr.

[Tom Bender]

Forstner bits are best used in a drill press. The misalignment you get when using them handheld will cause jam ups and slipping. Avoid when you can.