Restoring Hand Drill?

[Erich Weidner]

Unlike my recent brace acquisition, this hand drill is not in great shape.
Anyone have advice for how to tackle a restoration. I recently got a jug of evapo-rust and was planning on using that. Right tool for the job?

This is a Millers Falls ...ah I forgot model number. It says "Yankee" on it somewhere.
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[Jim Koepke]

Anyone have advice for how to tackle a restoration.

My process is usually to take it apart, clean, oil everything and then put it back together.

The exception is when all it needs is a few drops of oil.

If the jaw springs need replacing they can often be made from springs salvaged from discarded cigarette lighters.

jtk

[Anuj Prateek]

I restored a similar drill few months back. I took it fully apart. Chuck was full of caked wood dust and rust. Polished the metal parts. Wood handle was in bad shape. Cracks got filled with epoxy and then I painted it. Originally, it was some Dark red color. The red metal wheel part was repainted as well. Took almost a day from start to finish.


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Works beautifully now. Don't use it much - I use power drills. When my kid grows up a little I will give it to him.

[Anuj Prateek]

On rust: Acetic acid works for me with heavy rust. I used it on a rusted horse shoe that had bad rust. Few rounds of soaking and scrubbing removed all rust.

[J. Greg Jones]

It’s not a Millers Falls, it’s a North Bros Yankee, most likely a model 1530 with the Selector switch on the other side that changes it’s operation. Those switches can become gunked up, so ensuring that operates properly would be the top priority on my list. That will require more attention than soaking in Evapo-Rust. There are plenty of sites, including here, that describes the process. Probably no shortage of YT videos either. They are nice drills, although I’ve found the switch is not that useful to a woodworker. Worth the effort to make them operate as they should.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Do a search here. There is a member (Robert Hazelwood maybe?) who did a bunch of them and he did a really nice job. There is a thread somewhere where he answered some questions about how he restored different parts.

[steven c newman]

Might know a thing or two.....
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As I have about a dozen egg beater drills, all cleaned up and working like new.

I tear each down as far as I can.....brass wire wheels to clean all the metal parts, as I do not soak anything. Repaint as needed. Wooden parts are cleaned, sanded, and usually just refinished..
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These are more like what the North Brothers are known for. They also have a hole or two, that says "Oil".....usually just a drop in each hole, use the tool a couple times, add another drop if needful.
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This is a Goodell-Pratt. Usually the only shifter found on an egg beater drill..is to change the speed. To change directions, just turn the crank in the direction needed.
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These do have a shifter for forward, reverse, and locked.
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These do not.

[Steven Harrison]

Evapo-Rust is your friend. I restored a No. 2 last year. I completely disassembled it then soaked it, followed by scraping/sanding/polishing and repainting.
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[Andrew Pitonyak]

Might know a thing or two.....
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Kind of amazing how much your shop has changed over the years, looking good!

[Erich Weidner]

It’s not a Millers Falls, it’s a North Bros Yankee, most likely a model 1530 with the Selector switch on the other side that changes it’s operation. Those switches can become gunked up, so ensuring that operates properly would be the top priority on my list. That will require more attention than soaking in Evapo-Rust. There are plenty of sites, including here, that describes the process. Probably no shortage of YT videos either. They are nice drills, although I’ve found the switch is not that useful to a woodworker. Worth the effort to make them operate as they should.


It is pretty rusted, but definitely says Yankee (which of course is what my North Bros. brace in good shape says so I should have made the connection.) It has the switchero thingie. Now that I looked closer I do see the North Bros. stamping.

Here are more pictures.

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[Erich Weidner]

Evapo-Rust is your friend. I restored a No. 2 last year. I completely disassembled it then soaked it, followed by scraping/sanding/polishing and repainting.


That looks awesome!
Did you disassemble then soak or just put the whole thing in a tub of evapo-rust?

[J. Greg Jones]

Yours is the 1530A, which IMO is the best of the 3 models of 1530 that were released. I don’t know how it happened, but I have one 1530 and three of the 1530A models. All very good drills, but I’ve not yet restored any of them. When Stanley purchased North Bros they released a 1530AX version and, again IMO, it’s not nearly as nice as the North Bros versions. I expect you will be happy with yours, and the different functions of the selector is fun to play with!

[Phil Mueller]

Erich, I usually disassemble as much as possible first, then soak the individual metal parts. You just want to make sure that the parts are completely submerged...

[Steven Harrison]

That looks awesome!
Did you disassemble then soak or just put the whole thing in a tub of evapo-rust?

Thanks, I'm extremely happy with it. I disassembled everything and then soaked the metal components.

[Brandon Speaks]

Never used evaporust my self but usually tear it down and soak in vinegar, then wire brush, then wash under water, then a baking soda solution, then dry and oil before assembly.

[Erich Weidner]

I'm not going for a complete restoration, but since the drill really isn't working well (keeps binding), time to see if I can fix it.

Evapo-rust for the all metal parts today. Learned a few lessons from this.
437628 437629 It begins (Chuck removed wiped down with mineral spirits).

437630Partly disassembled.

437631 After 2 hours in Evapo-rust (I pulled it at 1 hour scrubbed with wire brush under hot water then back into the tank).

437632 Evapo-rust has changed from an almost neon yellow to... well... this color.

437633 Lesson 1: Running water.
I pulled this part which was pretty black after about an hour. I scrubbed with a wire brush and not much change. Then following the instructions from the product, and though it seems like just what you wouldn't want to do, I ran it under a (hot) tap water. The black stuff just rinsed off. I scrubbed a little more with the brush, but I have to say the rinse is what got the black stuff off. Color me surprised.
I put it back into the tank for a bit longer, but didn't get much further improvement after another rinse. I dipped it in Evapo-rust then dried with paper towels. I will want to paint the outside, but for now it just has that light coat of evapo-rust protecting it from flash rusting.

437634 The all metal parts were in the evapo-rust for several hours. The bits with wood I did a spray on rust remover after taping off the wood. For the crank handle, I had to use a rubberized abrasive block and steel wool to get most of the rust off. There is still some pitting. But I'm OK with ho wit looks now. I gave these parts a polish with Auto-sol to bring some shine back and (hopefully) prevent additional rusting while I finish the rehab.

437635 Not sure what I'm going to do with this part. It must be the issue with binding, but disassembly is a little intimidating. I tried anyway, but the screw to get the whole deal apart was bound solid.
This is now soaking overnight in mineral spirits.

Will see what that does for it tomorrow. Not sure if I should just put in into evapo-rust as is... or disassemble?

[Jim Matthews]

Place the entire assembly in a large Ziploc bag that can be tightly sealed. Immerse the works in WD40.

Allow 48-72 hours soak time.

*gently* turn the mechanism until free

[Erich Weidner]

Place the entire assembly in a large Ziploc bag that can be tightly sealed. Immerse the works in WD40.

Allow 48-72 hours soak time.

*gently* turn the mechanism until free

I don't know if it matters for the above advice, but it does turn, it just sometimes (and getting more frequent) gets a bit stuck and feels like it is "skipping".
Is the WD-40 soak to unbind rust or...?

[Jim Matthews]

I couldn't be certain without a tear down, but skipping sounds like a broken tooth or misaligned cog.

Like an old car, some things are better left as they are.

[Erich Weidner]

Anyone know if these were originally painted?
What about maintenance, oil? But where?

[J. Greg Jones]

The charcoal gray/black that you have is the original color. As for oil, look for the little holes on the drill like you see in the first picture of your post #16 above, and add 2-3 drops of light oil like 3-1 to those locations. I also add 2-3 drops to the selector switch and let that soak in. Otherwise, it should be ready to go back to work.

[Erich Weidner]

437748 Anyone know how to get this apart? Simple pushing didn't do anything. I don't want to break it.

[Erich Weidner]

This piece is in for a 24 (or more) hour WD-40 soak. Hopefully that will let me take it apart.

[Erich Weidner]

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The etching in the cylinder is still hard to read but it polished up pretty good. I'm concerned about rust on the big wheel gear (disk) part. Thinking I should paint the outside at least? Everything else got 3-in-1 oil pretty liberally. No broken teeth anywhere, all the functions work. I've not yet tried drilling anything.