Thinking about getting a Minimax FS 41ES - Thoughts?

[Brian Cox]

So I have been going back and forth between the Felder 941 and the Minimax FS41ES. I have about decided to go the Minimax route.

Looking at the following specs.

1 phase
XYLENT cutter head
Powered Planer Bed

Additional drop down fence for small parts
Comfort guard

Mobility kit

I am thinking about not getting their mobility kit if there is a better option out there. See anything missing or have any input that would be great!

[Jim Becker]

How often do you expect to move it? If it's infrequently, then the OEM option with two wheels and a Johnson bar works fine. If you expect to move it more frequently, one of the four wheel mobile bases might be a better choice. Bora comes up frequently with very positive comments.

You'll really enjoy having that J/P in your shop! While I have its slightly smaller and older 350mm FS350, I've used the 410mm version in other folks' shops and it's a winner.

BTW, if by "comfort guard" you mean a Euro/Bridge guard, great choice. I really hate "pork shop" type guards on wide jointers, personally.

[Brian Cox]

It will probably be moved a fair amount initially. I'm building the shop for it now. Its $150 for the mobility kit. I figured if there was a better solution then I would drop that from the order.

[Peter Kelly]

“Comfort Guard” is the Euro bridge guard? I’ve got the mobility kit on mine and wouldn’t trade it for a different one.

The Tersa head on mine has worked out great, don’t see the need for a spiral one.

[Bobby Robbinett]

I have never found a mobile base that I liked and that was easy to operate and move around. With that said, I build my own using 3” heavy duty locking casters sitting under a 2x4 frame with 2x12’s cut to length for the bottom where the machine sits. You can get 3” 300+lbs locking casters of good quality for under $20 each.

[Albert Lee]

I have Felder AD951 in my shop. when I was shopping around I wanted to buy a Nova 520 with Xylent cutterblock but it was not available and Felder agent had one in stock and I can have it the next day.

I think you will like the Minimax.

I put down deposit today for a SCM spindle moulder, a Ti145 EP with side tenon table, LCD screen and electro spindle, all functions are similar to a Felder Profil 45 z motion, you get the programmable control and automated fences, it cost more than the Felder but the Profil 45 did not have the side tenon table and side tenon table is a must for me due to my workshop space constraint.

the new spindle moulder cost a small fortune but it will save a lot of time.

[Brian W Evans]

I have an FS41 Classic and used to have it on a mobile base. The mobile base itself was very nice and I wrote a review of it here (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?249277-Review-PORTAMATE-Super-Duty-Universal-Mobile-Base-PM-3500). However, there was quite a bit of vibration in the machine while on the base. I eventually reorganized my shop to give the J/P a permanent home and removed the base. The vibration is now gone.

Conclusion: I would go with the mobility kit so that the machine sits on the ground when in use.

[roger wiegand]

I have basically the same machine only 3 ph. It's been about a year and I still can't believe how well it works! Enjoy! Having that wide a jointer is life altering-- though you will develop some upper body strength pushing wide boards through.

Mine (bought used) came with the pork chop guard, and I hate it. It doesn't work very well and it's constantly in the way. Some day it will irritate me enough that I'll spring for the Euro style guard. Really happy to have the powered bed, I wish it had a couple pre-sets so you could drop it down to the bottom and back up again with a single button push.

If the "mobility kit" means the tow bar I think that if I needed to move it a lot I'd opt for an aftermarket solution like Bora. I used the built-in wheels to move it while installing it and found them difficult to engage-- but I haven't had the opportunity to practice.

[Jens Hoffmann]

Are you sure the ES is available as 1 phase? I thought only the E was.

[Jim Becker]

I

Conclusion: I would go with the mobility kit so that the machine sits on the ground when in use.

This is an important observation....and one of the advantages of the OEM mobility setup. When the two wheels are released and the Johnson bar stowed away somewhere, the machine is on the floor. That's not generally the case with third party mobility solutions.

[Peter Kelly]

Are you sure the ES is available as 1 phase? I thought only the E was.The FS 41 ES is available as 1ph but you won’t have the powered planer table as the up/down motor that drives it is only available in 3ph.

The OP might want to consider the FS 41 E if this is an issue.

[Brian W Evans]

Two other thoughts:

I was advised to stick with the Tersa head, and I am very pleased with it. 16" gives you plenty of room to skew most lumber to help avoid tearout and you can get carbide-tipped Tersa knives. I have no experience with the Xylent cutterhead but the results I get with Tersa are excellent.

I hate the porkchop. Aside from the size required to cover 16", it just doesn't work well IMO. I've never tried a european style guard but I can't imagine it would be worse.

[Peter Kelly]

Brian - there is an aftermarket bridge guard that fits the FS 41e for about $375 + shipping. Actually fits most larger sized jointers.
https://www.scosarg.com/cps-txf650-surface-planer-guard

436407

The pork chop one on mine has sheared off at the pivot point so I’ll be ordering one of these soon.

[Brian W Evans]

Thanks for the tip, Peter. My porkchop recently required some epoxy to repair several cracks around the pivot point, too. Not thrilled with that.

Edit: I just looked at that aftermarket euro guard and it says "unsuited to machines with swing away top beds." I take this to mean that it doesn't work with J/P machines. I can't see why it wouldn't work, but that would concern me, especially since I'd be ordering it from overseas.

[Joe Adams]

I have an Minimax FS30c and for the smaller size, the porkchop guard actually works quite well. I use the Portamate PM 3500 base and it works for that weight. The FS41e is a lot heavier so you would have to take that into account. I actually chose the smaller machine because it would be easier to move around in my small shop every time I needed it.

Most importantly, I have the Tersa head and absolutely LOVE it. I had a 8" Powermatic jointer with a helical head before and it leaves subtle lines along the board. The Tersa blades are so easy to change (like 2-3 minutes total) that I switch between HSS, M42, and Carbide depending on the situation.

[Brian Cox]

The FS 41 ES is available as 1ph but you won’t have the powered planer table as the up/down motor that drives it is only available in 3ph.

The OP might want to consider the FS 41 E if this is an issue.

On my quote it is the FS41ES with an option for Powered Planer Bed $890

[Max Neu]

Would you be interested in 20" fs52es with a Tersa head?I had this built,and it showed up with a manual bed adjustment,and I ordered it with a powered bed adjustment,after a 7 month wait.They offered to make me a good deal on it,but I refused,so they built me a new one,to the correct specs that I ordered.The new one should be here soon (supposed to ship last month from Italy).I would guess they will make someone a good deal on this,since they let me use it while the new one is being made,and they can't sell it as new,even though I have only used it for 3 month's .I'm guessing they will be willing to take a loss on it,and not have to hassle with crating it back up,and shipping it somewhere else to store it.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks for the tip, Peter. My porkchop recently required some epoxy to repair several cracks around the pivot point, too. Not thrilled with that.

Edit: I just looked at that aftermarket euro guard and it says "unsuited to machines with swing away top beds." I take this to mean that it doesn't work with J/P machines. I can't see why it wouldn't work, but that would concern me, especially since I'd be ordering it from overseas.

I have a standard Euro bridge guard on my FS350 and there's zero issue with it. It follows the outfeed side. I just flip it in the opposite direction before doing the pivot. So in this photo, a lever is released at the place where it attaches to the bed, the whole thing is pivoted toward that white door in the background and then re-latched. At that point, after pulling my fence forward, I can flip the bed back toward those shelves to convert to thicknessing mode. The FS-41 series should be similar If I'm not mistaken.

https://pwgqzq.sn.files.1drv.com/y4mjdvc6dntUReVq43CJwlM-tI7dXUM8TTauq0FFUxTXHXpMbmBZzMh_PJ9L0X8G2RCuBK3V0O qt6rzfBrleotrkdw245sQqe-FKR6JKmNnFSYnDrbnPwaP2uIo4PhDZOh4Tl6W0oTIao4aQAo3s _-ILcycm6SsrEpHURKMZuo0qOqSjri_CqSmKIKm8Pjteuzhn0B25 8kt2ZwdD6uxypOEiA?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none

[Brian Holcombe]

On my quote it is the FS41ES with an option for Powered Planer Bed $890

This is well worth it, I know because I don't have a powered bed. At the time I purchased mine it was only available on the 3ph machines, so its nice that they made that improvement.

I may see if they will sell the parts to me so I can convert mine to powered.

Anywho:

The factory mobility kit is easy to use and it tucks away when not in use, machines that are this heavy should be setup and leveled so it's actually a very good thing that the wheels tuck away when not needed.

I have the ES and it's very much worth the added expense, IMO. It's nice and heavy. I'm not in love with the sheetmetal body machines, but IMO this is a nice machine and well made.

[Brian Cox]

Would you be interested in 20" fs52es with a Tersa head?I had this built,and it showed up with a manual bed adjustment,and I ordered it with a powered bed adjustment,after a 7 month wait.They offered to make me a good deal on it,but I refused,so they built me a new one,to the correct specs that I ordered.The new one should be here soon (supposed to ship last month from Italy).I would guess they will make someone a good deal on this,since they let me use it while the new one is being made,and they can't sell it as new,even though I have only used it for 3 month's .I'm guessing they will be willing to take a loss on it,and not have to hassle with crating it back up,and shipping it somewhere else to store it.


Thanks for the message. I am not interested. If I order one without power bed adjustment it will probably be a Hammer.

[Peter Kelly]

On my quote it is the FS41ES with an option for Powered Planer Bed $890Unless you’re intending to order a 3ph machine I’d double check with your dealer to make sure you’d be receiving a 1ph unit if you’re ordering that option.

[Adam R Johnson]

Timely thread for me, as I'm considering this same exact machine. New forum member here. Setting up a garage shop in the Seattle area and for the jointer/planer decision, I'm trying to decide between 'forever' machines (which would be separates) and a combo machine that I'd use for the present but sell when I get a bigger shop space. As a general rule, I'd far rather get the crying over with early, but I don't know if separates are practical right now.

Back to the FS 41ES: Brian, were you able to confirm with your dealer whether the powered planer bed is an option on the 1 phase machine? The SCM website doesn't indicate so, but it's not a great website to begin with, and perhaps they've updated the options?

Adam

[Jim Becker]

Adam, you may very well find over time that the J/P will be your "forever machine". I can tell you that I have zero desire to give up mine for separates and it's been in my shop since the mid-2000s.

[Adam R Johnson]

Adam, you may very well find over time that the J/P will be your "forever machine". I can tell you that I have zero desire to give up mine for separates and it's been in my shop since the mid-2000s.

That's encouraging, Jim. If I do end up going with the combo, I'm very much looking forward to the jointing width. Never had anything close. Will need to grow in discipline in my milling plans, as the changeover looks likes a bit of a bottleneck if repeated too often (hence the question about the powered lift.)

[Brian Cox]

Here is my build.

1 MINIMAX FS 41ES JOINTER/PLANER COMBINATION MACHINE, TERSA

R0.22.00 Minimax FS 41ES USA-Canada
93.07.58 230 Volt
93.12.15 Frequency 60Hz
58.02.22 Rubber-coated feed roller on thicknesser outfeed
58.02.23 Tersa cutterblock Ø 95 mm with 4 knives with rapid locking system
58.02.50 Wheels for machine movement
58.02.41 Additional overturning fence for processing of thin workpieces
58.02.44 Powered vertical movement of thicknessing table with digital display
58.03.37 Single-phase motor S1 3,6kW (4,8hp) 60Hz
08.06.25 Triple wall

[Peter Kelly]

Who quoted you? Elite Metal Tools or Reardon?

I’d definitely try to add the Euro bridge guard. The above configuration only includes the aforementioned annoying plastic pork chop.

[Bernie May]

I epoxied a nut to the center of the wheel that raises and lowers the planer bed on my Hammer A3 31. I then use a socket driven by my battery drill to raise and lower the bed rapidly, i.e., a powered bed. It sure beats doing it by hand when I switch between planing and jointing.

[Phil Gaudio]

I have the FS41E with the segmented head: very nice. I made a slight modification that makes the manual planer table elevation semi-powered: all you need is a cordless drill.

[Phil Gaudio]

Bernie: Great minds think alike! Phil



I epoxied a nut to the center of the wheel that raises and lowers the planer bed on my Hammer A3 31. I then use a socket driven by my battery drill to raise and lower the bed rapidly, i.e., a powered bed. It sure beats doing it by hand when I switch between planing and jointing.

[Brian Cox]

So Tersa or Xylent ??? Tersa is about $250 less...

[Phil Gaudio]

Xylent all the way.


So Tersa or Xylent ??? Tersa is about $250 less...

[Peter Kelly]

So Tersa or Xylent ??? Tersa is about $250 less...I’d get the Xylent head if you’re going to be planing lots of highly figured wood and are worried about tearing or chipping. Tersa is fine for 99% or other woods, can even get carbide knives for them these days.

[Jim Becker]

That's encouraging, Jim. If I do end up going with the combo, I'm very much looking forward to the jointing width. Never had anything close. Will need to grow in discipline in my milling plans, as the changeover looks likes a bit of a bottleneck if repeated too often (hence the question about the powered lift.)

Changeover takes me like a minute...and mine is hand-cranked. But good planning is certainly very helpful anyway and a good practice even if one has separate machines. I do most of my face jointing first and most of the time, my J/P is in thicknessing mode. (I don't normally do much edge jointing because my slider takes care of that well enough when ripping flat and thicknessed material.

[Adam R Johnson]

Thanks, all. Brian, I'll see if I can get the same powered lift option with the 1ph package. If not, I may give Bernie and Phil's idea a try.

[Albert Lee]

So Tersa or Xylent ??? Tersa is about $250 less...


I had Tersa before on my Robland 16 inch combo, I now have Felder's Silent cutter block. pros and cons. for production and if you are not worried about noise, Tersa. for professional hobbist, Xylent.

[Brian W Evans]

Timely thread for me, as I'm considering this same exact machine. New forum member here. Setting up a garage shop in the Seattle area and for the jointer/planer decision, I'm trying to decide between 'forever' machines (which would be separates) and a combo machine that I'd use for the present but sell when I get a bigger shop space. As a general rule, I'd far rather get the crying over with early, but I don't know if separates are practical right now.


You could always get the combination now and turn it into a dedicated jointer or planer later by just leaving it in one mode or another. It doesn't take up any more room than a stand-alone jointer. Possibly less, in fact.

[Peter Kelly]

One note - the FS 41ES and likely the Felder equivalent are extremely top heavy and awkward so a lift gate would be a no-go. You’ll definitely want a fork lift to unload it from the trailer once it arrives. You’ll also need a lift to remove the machine from the pallet as well.

[Phil Gaudio]

So there may be an advantage to the plain old FS41E as my machine was delivered via liftgate with no issues and I was able to roll it off the pallet with a quickly constructed ramp.

[Todd Solomon]

So Tersa or Xylent ??? Tersa is about $250 less...

I've owned both and love both. Tersa is a fantastic cutterhead, I had one in a Mini Max and then a Felder. Also had an Oliver 20" with spiral cutterhead, it took too much space in the shop so I went back to a combo J/P. But for that small $250 price delta, I'd get the Xylent.

I just took delivery of a Hammer with a spiral cutterhead, but it was not an easy decision. Really, you'd be happy with either, I suspect.

[mreza Salav]

I have the same machine as Jim (FS-350 with Tersa) and I am quite happy with Tersa. Minimum amount of sanding required.

[Brian Holcombe]

I have a Tersa and I like it a lot. Given the choice I'd stick with Tersa.

[Brian Cox]

It is done! I put down a deposit for the FS41ES today! Now I get to wait for my Christmas present... Real question is why does it take longer to build one of these guys than my 2021 F150...

[Max Neu]

It is done! I put down a deposit for the FS41ES today! Now I get to wait for my Christmas present... Real question is why does it take longer to build one of these guys than my 2021 F150...
Be patient, it will be over a year before I get the machine I ordered,even though I was told 3 months.

[Peter Kelly]

Thanks for the tip, Peter. My porkchop recently required some epoxy to repair several cracks around the pivot point, too. Not thrilled with that.

Edit: I just looked at that aftermarket euro guard and it says "unsuited to machines with swing away top beds." I take this to mean that it doesn't work with J/P machines. I can't see why it wouldn't work, but that would concern me, especially since I'd be ordering it from overseas.Brian - I think the issue is with combination machines where the jointer beds swing forward rather than upward. Since the beds on the FS 41E & S swing up, installing the CPS bridge guard shouldn’t be an issue. Photos below illustrate what I’m talking about.

https://i.imgur.com/uF0YI0q.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1QhCxf1.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/BtLh0yz.jpg

[Brian W Evans]

Brian - I think the issue is with combination machines where the jointer beds swing forward rather than upward. Since the beds on the FS 41E & S swing up, installing the CPS bridge guard shouldn’t be an issue. Photos below illustrate what I’m talking about.



That makes sense. Never seen one of those before...

[Jim Becker]

It is done! I put down a deposit for the FS41ES today! Now I get to wait for my Christmas present... Real question is why does it take longer to build one of these guys than my 2021 F150...

Congratulations, Brian!

The lead time is simply because they are built in Italy and are shipped via containers on ocean-going vessels. I'm guessing that the specific configuration you want isn't already here in North America in warehouse inventory. Individual machines are not shipped; rather, they fill up containers and then send them on their way. The wait is frustrating, but in the end, you'll forget about it. I had the same kind of "pregnancy" when I ordered my CNC machine. It was build in Georgia (USA) but every machine is assembled to order; hence, the wait.

[Peter Kelly]

That makes sense. Never seen one of those before...Most all older mid-range SCM, Robland, Electra Beckum, Rojek combination machines operated like this. Pretty common to see in Europe.

[Jim Becker]

Both the infeed and outfeed sides on my FS350 J/P flip up individually, but they do so straight back, not on angles like in those photos. That's why the Euro bridge guard works perfectly well on my machine.

[Izzy Charo]

Congratulations! Were you able to get the FS41ES with the motorized table (and 1-Phase)?

[Brian Cox]

Well my 41ES has arrived state side. It is in CA. They called me today. Funny thing is my 2021 F150 that I ordered the same time is being built this week. Now we will see which arrives first.

[Brian Cox]

Well it has finally arrived. I unloaded it today without any damage to it. Any suggestions for getting it off the crate. I have access to a skid steer but it is a bit of a chore to move it.

[David Publicover]

Congratulations! I have the FS30 and used an engine crane to lift it off the pallet and put it on a Bora mobile base. I got that tip here. It was only $30 to rent a crane. I picked up some cheap hooks at the Canadian version of Harbor Freight and used the lifting holes on the machine. It was a task I was thinking would be a challenge that turned out to be quick and stress free.
Good luck and enjoy!

[Phil Gaudio]

Well it has finally arrived. I unloaded it today without any damage to it. Any suggestions for getting it off the crate. I have access to a skid steer but it is a bit of a chore to move it.

I built a simple ramp and wheeled it off the pallet onto the floor of my garage.
https://i.postimg.cc/sxxRkT4v/IMG-1346.jpg (https://postimg.cc/HcqK54Kg)
https://i.postimg.cc/gj7Pm3g4/IMG-1350.jpg (https://postimg.cc/q62FG6VC)
https://i.postimg.cc/W3XvYBrB/IMG-1352.jpg (https://postimg.cc/xJJhcF65)

[roger wiegand]

chain hoist, pick it up a little, slide the pallet out from underneath. Check the manual for the lifting points.

[Jim Becker]

Well it has finally arrived. I unloaded it today without any damage to it. Any suggestions for getting it off the crate. I have access to a skid steer but it is a bit of a chore to move it.
Congrats!!

Phil's method is valid, especially if you got the mobility kit. An engine hoist or similar also works and can be rented if you don't have one. The lifting points should be marked, but there should also be a diagram in the documentation.

[Brian Cox]

Thanks for the information! So I’m just now getting around to setting up the machine. I have removed the two metal shipping straps that hold the top down. However when I turn the lever on the right to unlatch the top so I can open it it does not open. It’s as if it needs to turn a bit more to unlatch it. Any suggestions?

[Phil Gaudio]

Thanks for the information! So I’m just now getting around to setting up the machine. I have removed the two metal shipping straps that hold the top down. However when I turn the lever on the right to unlatch the top so I can open it it does not open. It’s as if it needs to turn a bit more to unlatch it. Any suggestions?

Did you unlatch and slide the lever to the side as well?

[Brian Cox]

Did you unlatch and slide the lever to the side as well?

Thanks Man. It was stuck.

[Phil Gaudio]

Thanks Man. It was stuck.
So lets see some pictures of the new machine: you know the rule: no pictures, it didn't happen. :)

[Brian Cox]

So lets see some pictures of the new machine: you know the rule: no pictures, it didn't happen. :)

Spent a good hour last night getting the sticky stuff off it. Got a power cord for it today. Will wire it up this evening.

(https://imgur.com/mrsiiXV)https://i.postimg.cc/ftvCSgr9/IMG-4705.jpg (https://postimg.cc/ftvCSgr9)

https://i.postimg.cc/Vdvg5gBJ/IMG-4753.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Vdvg5gBJ)

https://i.postimg.cc/14JM926x/IMG-4754.jpg (https://postimg.cc/14JM926x)

451754

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Ha I think it took longer to get the pictures to show up on this forum then it did to get that beast off the pallet...

[Phil Gaudio]

OK, with pictures, its official now: hope you get lots of good use out of that machine: its a beauty!


Spent a good hour last night getting the sticky stuff off it. Got a power cord for it today. Will wire it up this evening.

(https://imgur.com/mrsiiXV)https://i.postimg.cc/ftvCSgr9/IMG-4705.jpg (https://postimg.cc/ftvCSgr9)

https://i.postimg.cc/Vdvg5gBJ/IMG-4753.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Vdvg5gBJ)

https://i.postimg.cc/14JM926x/IMG-4754.jpg (https://postimg.cc/14JM926x)

451754

451756

451757

Ha I think it took longer to get the pictures to show up on this forum then it did to get that beast off the pallet...

[Brian Cox]

Ok. I am getting this setup and have a few questions.

My fence does not slide forward and back very easy. All the video's i have seen online they move it with ease with one hand. I have to push on back of rod and fence real hard to get it to move. It looks very close to the table as well but that may be expected...

I assume the fence needs to be nearly all the way forward for it not to hit the back when opening the lid. This is how mine currently works.

I cant get the lever on the inlet table to budge. Manual and online videos show it easily moving up and down. Suggestions?

There is this metal guard that sits behind the fence over the cutter. Is it supposed to attach to something? If so I may be missing the hardware to attach it.

I also have this long silver pin that is like 12" long. I have no idea what it is for.

[Phil Gaudio]

Ok. I am getting this setup and have a few questions.

My fence does not slide forward and back very easy. All the video's i have seen online they move it with ease with one hand. I have to push on back of rod and fence real hard to get it to move. It looks very close to the table as well but that may be expected...

Sounds like the fence on my FS41E: some wax will go a long way to help with this.

I assume the fence needs to be nearly all the way forward for it not to hit the back when opening the lid. This is how mine currently works.

There is a detent that locks the fence in the forward position. Should use the locking lever in addition, just to be safe.

I cant get the lever on the inlet table to budge. Manual and online videos show it easily moving up and down. Suggestions?

Are you referring to the level adjustment?

There is this metal guard that sits behind the fence over the cutter. Is it supposed to attach to something? If so I may be missing the hardware to attach it.

It is attached to the back of the fence and covers the cutter head through the travel of the fence. The one on my machine has a small section at the end that is hinged.

I also have this long silver pin that is like 12" long. I have no idea what it is for.

Ha: that was a mystery for a long time: I decided it was meant to temporarily lock the cutter head while I torqued down the mortising chuck. You will find a hole drilled on the cutter head shaft toward the front of the machine close to the bearing. Not sure if that's what it was designed for, but it worked well.

[Brian Cox]

Ha: that was a mystery for a long time: I decided it was meant to temporarily lock the cutter head while I torqued down the mortising chuck. You will find a hole drilled on the cutter head shaft toward the front of the machine close to the bearing. Not sure if that's what it was designed for, but it worked well.

I will see if I can find some wax.

Yes I am referring to the level adjustment i suppose. The manual calls it a lever on the inlet table. It is on the right side of the machine and used to take the right side table up and down to adjust how much your are taking off at a time when operating the jointer.

Have any pictures of how this metal guard attaches?

[Phil Gaudio]

Here are pics of the height adjustment mechanism on my machine: the FS41es might be different.
And pic of the cutter head guard: just a couple of screws attach it to the back of the fence.

[Brian Cox]

Here are pics of the height adjustment mechanism on my machine: the FS41es might be different.
And pic of the cutter head guard: just a couple of screws attach it to the back of the fence.

Thanks for the pics... I can't view them but I got it going. Had to use some WD40 on the lever and found where the guard went. If it wasn't 15 degrees in the shop i would be playing with this guy. One more week and it will warm up. I can't wait.

[Len Rosenberg]

Thanks for all the great ideas! Phil, how did you modify the turn wheel like that? Looks like you put a 3/8 or 1/2" drive socket in the center.