Analysis paralysis: Which Board(s) to Cut?

[Erich Weidner]

I made these boards wide based on a blog post by the author of the article/video I'm following to build this tool chest (to allow for common mistakes and their correction without ending up undersized). Turns out there is about 4" of too much overall length for the back wall of the chest. That is a bit over half the width of these four 7-1/4" tongue and groove boards.

I still have to make the 30° bevel on the top board, and I might mess that up, I want to make sure I get that right before I trim the others. But assuming I get it right on the first try, I need to take out 4" from somewhere. Easiest would be the bottom board, but that leaves it pretty skinny at about 3-1/2", I wonder if that'll be too weak? Even more so the top board will have the hinges attached. If it is too skinny I wonder if it'll hold up to the stresses from the lid. Or do I split the difference and take off 2" from the bottom and the top? :)

436237

[Richard Line]

Or take it all out of one of the middle boards, so you have a more usable piece after the cutting.

[Paul F Franklin]

Nice project, thanks for the posts!

I'm thinking I would skinny the middle two boards (after getting the bevel done) even though it would mean recutting the joint between them. I'd aim to have the top and bottom boards be the same, and the two middle boards the same. Truth is it probably doesn't matter much.

[Erich Weidner]

Yeah, I guess taking it out of the two middle after getting the bevel cut is probably the best option to not make any one board too weak (and it keeps things more symmetrical). I guess it gives me more practice ripping...

I wonder what the author has his students do. Maybe I'll find out when Lost Art Press puts out the Dutch Tool Chest book Ms. Fitzpatrick is going to write.

[David Bassett]

... Maybe I'll find out when Lost Art Press puts out the Dutch Tool Chest book Ms. Fitzpatrick is going to write.

Fitz says it'll be out late-2021. (Maybe. Stuff comes up.)

In case it helps, Christopher Schwarz's original article was in the October 2013 Pop Wood. I'm pretty sure they've sold PDF reprints of the article and of article collections which include it. (Of course, it doesn't have as many details as I expect the books does nor will it have any improvements Megan's developed when teaching classes.)

[Erich Weidner]

Fitz says it'll be out late-2021. (Maybe. Stuff comes up.)

In case it helps, Christopher Schwarz's original article was in the October 2013 Pop Wood. I'm pretty sure they've sold PDF reprints of the article and of article collections which include it. (Of course, it doesn't have as many details as I expect the books does nor will it have any improvements Megan's developed when teaching classes.)

I bought the Lie-Nielson produced Chris Schwarz video. It includes the PW article in question as well as sketchup drawings. And yes, it is like 5 pages long, vs. the 3 hour video. I don't think I would have had any hope just working off of the article. The video is what I needed (and it is very beginner focused which is REALLY what I needed). Once Ms. Fitzpatrick puts out the book I'll get to learn everything I've done wrong. ;) But by then I will hopefully have a year of actual use out of the chest.

[Erich Weidner]

So... rewatching the video for the umpteenth time at the step where Mr. Schwarz is attaching the back... the bottom board I noted was several inches to long, and that is the one he ripped short. My desire for symmetry vs. lazy is at war.

[Jim Matthews]

Just like the barbershop: a little off the top.

The joinery is more important. Don't disturb joints that fit.

If you rip the "top" board to width, you should have enough for two tries at a proper fit.

[Phil Mueller]

If I understand the issue correctly, I’d cut the waste from the bottom. Cut the beveled top first and get that perfect. Then cut the bottom a little fat. Attach the back and plane the bottom flush. I wouldn’t mess with redoing the joints in the center boards. It’s not lazy, just practical. It is, after all, the back of the chest. By the way, nice job on the dovetails!

[Jim Koepke]

This reminds me of something a 7th grade teacher told the class about doing homework. "Always do the hardest assignments first."

It translates into many other tasks.

By first doing the parts most likely to cause difficulties, any errors can be compensated by adjusting the work to follow.

In this case my choice would agree with Phil, remove any extra from the bottom piece.

jtk

[steven c newman]

I'd take most from the bottom board, leave enough at the top board to allow for the bevel cut......and leave the middle 2 boards alone. Something like this:

Mark and cut the top board to size, including the bevel to match the sides. Only cut what is needed to form the bevel....most of the "extra" will come from the bottom board. Slide the "top" 3 boards down....

Leave #2 and #3 alone

Mark the bottom board for width...PLUS a bit.....as much as you can plane off as needed....to fine tune the fit.

On the two boards (top and bottom) with the tongue or groove already made....leave that edge alone....cut on the non T&G edges.

[Erich Weidner]

So I ended up getting the top bevel on the first try. I left that board full width, same with the middle two, and I marked and ripped the bottom to width. I meant to leave a little extra to plane down to perfect, but once again my rip cut wandered and I ended up a bit short on one end. I just put a bit more gap with the tongue and grove at that side. Not perfect, but it beats redoing that whole board. :)
Pics here (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?284056-Neander-Project-III-Progress).