Run capacitor help

[Andrew Hughes]

I think this a run cap it’s for my Agazzani bandsaw. All my single phase motors have need a capacitor replaced over the years and I still haven’t learned how to read them for replacement. Good new I didn’t run it till the label was completely gone.
Heres the pic

[Pete Taran]

Andrew,

Nothing magic about those. Just google 80 micro farad run capacitor and no shortage of choices will
appear. Most were around $10. Match the 440 voltage. Seemed like most were.

Pete

[Andrew Hughes]

Thanks Pete seems way to simple. I found this one.

[Bill Dufour]

80 U farads is often spelled 80mfd pronounced 80 micro farads.. Anything within 5-10% of 80mfd is good enough. A hose clamp or zip makes a nice mounting systm.
The one you found will work fine. It can even be mounted fairly far away, like on the cabinet or frame. Just use proper wire carefully supported so it does not chafe.
Short the terminals with a screwdriver before removing the old one or installing the new one as well.
Bil lD

MFD is used because... good luck finding that Greek U on your keyboard.

[Andrew Hughes]

Thanks bill for the reply. Something I didn’t know about this motor is start cap cuts out without a mechanical centrifugal switch. My dust collector has one my table saw has the switch.
Not the bandsaw no.
So much to learn in this craft. I wonder how many just give up and throw in the towel when faced with electrical.
Here the start cap. Just for the record

[Robert D Evans]

Start capacitors are only designed to operate for a few seconds at a time. Once the motor gets up to speed, the start capacitor disengages. If the motor gets stalled for more than a few seconds, usually you'll let the magic smoke out of the start capacitor. Lots of times, they will be bulged or black goo will be leaking out. I smoked the start capacitor on my drill press trying to drill 2" holes in oak. Fortunately, start capacitors are pretty cheap.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

If I remember correctly, when my SawStop failed to run, their support people suggested that while I was replacing one I might as well replace them both (start and run capacitor) since we did not know for certain which was the problem and the parts were very inexpensive compared to shipping. They were pretty sure which was the problem, but an extra $10 seemed like a good idea just because.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Thanks bill for the reply. Something I didn’t know about this motor is start cap cuts out without a mechanical centrifugal switch. My dust collector has one my table saw has the switch.
Not the bandsaw no.
So much to learn in this craft. I wonder how many just give up and throw in the towel when faced with electrical.
Here the start cap. Just for the recordMost likely, it uses a "potential relay" which could be mechanical, or electronic. Three wire well pumps used to use mechanical relays, but they now come with electronic. I have a Skill bench grinder, and a Delta sanding center that use potential relays instead of start switches.

[Andrew Hughes]

Most likely, it uses a "potential relay" which could be mechanical, or electronic. Three wire well pumps used to use mechanical relays, but they now come with electronic. I have a Skill bench grinder, and a Delta sanding center that use potential relays instead of start switches.

From my research today the starting cap is from Italy and programmed to cut out at 300v. Whatever that means. I did locate one not to far from me. It’s expensive over 100 $. Hopefully I won’t need it .
Thanks for the Reply Bruce.

[Mike Henderson]

From my research today the starting cap is from Italy and programmed to cut out at 300v. Whatever that means. I did locate one not to far from me. It’s expensive over 100 $. Hopefully I won’t need it .
Thanks for the Reply Bruce.

Here's a paper (https://www.marsdelivers.com/wps/wcm/connect/1dca933e-44c4-4dad-b6ae-9acd7c6d82dd/Potential_Relay.pdf?MOD=AJPERES&CONVERT_TO=url&CACHEID=ROOTWORKSPACE-1dca933e-44c4-4dad-b6ae-9acd7c6d82dd-mltrAo1#:~:text=A%20potential%20relay%20senses%20v oltage,induced%20in%20the%20start%20winding.)on potential relays. From this paper, it looks like the relay is separate from the capacitor.

Here's another article.
(https://www.achrnews.com/articles/92424-know-your-potential-starting-relays)
Mike

[Andrew Hughes]

Thanks Mike that makes sense.
I hooked up the new run cap and saws starts. The way things go for me if buy the start cap From Jesse I’ll probably never need it. If I don’t and need some years from now I will and spend a weeks looking for one. I really like this bandsaw wish it didn’t have so much electrical oddness.

Thanks Again

[Andrew Hughes]

Here’s a update to this thread because I learned something new. Before the run capacitor popped I thought the saw was running kinda slow. I blamed it on the blade just a regular carbon steel blade. With a new run capacitor and the same blade it cuts noticeable faster.
So the cap must have been slowly going bad. It did affect the speed of the saw. 20 inch bandsaw.
Thanks all Good day

[Bill Dufour]

Thanks for the feedback I did not know they failed a little bit. I thought it was all or nothing.
Bil lD.