Looking for suggestions on clamping up the FrankenRack

[bill epstein]

Either way I do this I figure I'll need to make a fixture to hold the shelves securely vertical. I can't imagine little old me getting it done with the legs vertical but I'm open to suggestions on that. I've thought about dry clamping one shelf to all four legs with a band and then trying to get the others home but can't see how.

Right now I'm undecided between all four legs at once with band clamps or one at a time with pipe clamps. My Bessey K's are 24", too short.

I plan to use epoxy both for it's gap filling properties (the fit is just the other side of snug) and not being able to bring pressure in more than one plane. Plus, band or pipe clamps, either gives me long grain, legs, against short/long grain, the shelf angles.

436165

[Paul F Franklin]

IIWM, I'd cut some notches in a couple of lengths of 2x4 or the like to hold the shelves in alignment and then glue up one leg at a time. It takes longer but it removes a lot of time pressure from the glue-up.

It's just glue to hold the legs? No loose tenons or dowels or fasteners? A loose tenon or a dowel in each joint would make alignment a lot easier I would think.....I might even consider doing all four legs at once if there were dowels to help with alignment.

[glenn bradley]

436175

I'd just use these for keeping post and shelf perpendicular. If they are a bit wonky just mill a 45* notch in the side that would clamp against the leg. Also, check out the article on Fine Woodworking "The Gilpinoid leg". Band clamps come to mind.

[Jim Koepke]

My suggestion for gluing such a project would be a variation on the Spanish windlass > https://www.finehomebuilding.com/1997/01/01/the-spanish-windlass

You could even use a couple of short ropes with loops on the ends and use a bar clamp or pipe clamp to pull them tight. Use one between the bottom and center shelf and one between the top and center shelf.

Dowel mortises could be drilled through the dry assembled legs before gluing. Round one end of the dowel then leave it slightly proud as an accent. Make sure the drilled hole is a little longer than the dowel.

jtk

[bill epstein]

Dowel mortises could be drilled through the dry assembled legs before gluing. Round one end of the dowel then leave it slightly proud as an accent. Make sure the drilled hole is a little longer than the dowel.

jtk

I was never good with rope ever since someone pointed out he'd give me enough...never mind but since I posted the question I began to think about drilling pilot holes for finish nails through the legs at each junction but wondered about whether clamps would then have any effect. Your dowel idea is a better solution and will even look good. My thanks and that's exactly what i'll do.

Maybe some clamping just to ensure square?

[Jim Koepke]

Maybe some clamping just to ensure square?

If you make an X with the clamps crossing inside the FrankenRack you might want to cut some blocks of wood to use with the clamps to help prevent marking the legs.

You may want to use four clamps to even out the pressure.

jtk

[Jim Matthews]

There is very little glue surface in this design.


The last flange at the top looks a likely point of failure, if it is structural. Given the observed gaps, here and there - a mechanical fastener may be needed.

While the epoxy will hold in the joints, racking forces exert enough leverage that the long grain of the Walnut can peel off.

*If you're willing* saw off the top lip (or flange) to be reapplied with glue, last.

A Miller dowel or bed bolt would though the top, into the leg would allow for leisurely assembly and keep the works tight.

Since there's no easy access in the middle or bottom shelf, I would add a cleat at the bottom with a couple of recessed screws.

It's not the static weight that causes failure on display racks, casual contact from the side does that.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/highpoint-bed-bolt-4-piece