Derek Cohen
07-03-2020, 12:27 PM
There are four parts to the drawer build: the drawer size and design, the drawer case, fitting the drawer case, and the drawer.
Part 1 described the drawer size and design, and the apron of the drawer case. Part 2 describes the rest.
We ended Part 1 here. That is the apron and opening to the drawer case ..
https://i.postimg.cc/LXfXgR9P/Sunday4.jpg
This is where the build ended ...
https://i.postimg.cc/zGTFbmNy/14a.jpg
The drawer case and its fitting
I scratched my head for a week how to do this. How to get the case to support drawer blades. I did not want a heavy, complicated arrangement, one which ran the danger of protruding below the table and might be seen at a distance. It needed to be lean and mean. To be elegant. A design to be appreciated by myself and you. This is what I came up with ..
The case sides were grooved 3mm (1/8") ...
https://i.postimg.cc/g2f9Hf5v/4a.jpg
.. and matched with a rebated section which would form the 6mm (~1/4") thick drawer blade ...
https://i.postimg.cc/gcH036FY/2a.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/wvhjf11Q/3a.jpg
The thickness of each blade is the same as the depth of the lip on the drawer front (which doubles as a drawer pull). This depth is significant.
The reason for the rebate arrangement is to get the blade as low as possible on the case side. Recall that the front of the blade acts as a drawer stop as well, and must be coplanar with the lower edge of the drawer lip.
The side/blades are fitted to the rear of the apron with a mortice-and-tenon joint ...
https://i.postimg.cc/HnzsmF4J/1a.jpg
This was definitely a tricky joint to do and it needed to be precisely positioned so that the entry lined up with the sides ... precisely!
https://i.postimg.cc/sDHCvB4H/9a.jpg
Here is what it would look like with the drawer front inserted ...
https://i.postimg.cc/7hxrT0Rd/8a.jpg
To aid with alignment, I made a MDF pattern ...
https://i.postimg.cc/7YZyH10T/10a.jpg
Here's the fun bit - aligning the case with the front and rear aprons, to mark out the rear mortices ...
https://i.postimg.cc/zBmfFCGf/5a.jpg
The pattern is inserted and a straight edge is attached to the front apron to prevent flexing ...
https://i.postimg.cc/nL9zmRZ5/6a.jpg
A lot of repeat measurements are taken on the rear apron before I am satisfied it is square and equal front-and-back.
This is the result ...
https://i.postimg.cc/NGHDqjgX/1.jpg
By-the-way, note the biscuit joiner-made slots for attaching the table top.
Part 1 described the drawer size and design, and the apron of the drawer case. Part 2 describes the rest.
We ended Part 1 here. That is the apron and opening to the drawer case ..
https://i.postimg.cc/LXfXgR9P/Sunday4.jpg
This is where the build ended ...
https://i.postimg.cc/zGTFbmNy/14a.jpg
The drawer case and its fitting
I scratched my head for a week how to do this. How to get the case to support drawer blades. I did not want a heavy, complicated arrangement, one which ran the danger of protruding below the table and might be seen at a distance. It needed to be lean and mean. To be elegant. A design to be appreciated by myself and you. This is what I came up with ..
The case sides were grooved 3mm (1/8") ...
https://i.postimg.cc/g2f9Hf5v/4a.jpg
.. and matched with a rebated section which would form the 6mm (~1/4") thick drawer blade ...
https://i.postimg.cc/gcH036FY/2a.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/wvhjf11Q/3a.jpg
The thickness of each blade is the same as the depth of the lip on the drawer front (which doubles as a drawer pull). This depth is significant.
The reason for the rebate arrangement is to get the blade as low as possible on the case side. Recall that the front of the blade acts as a drawer stop as well, and must be coplanar with the lower edge of the drawer lip.
The side/blades are fitted to the rear of the apron with a mortice-and-tenon joint ...
https://i.postimg.cc/HnzsmF4J/1a.jpg
This was definitely a tricky joint to do and it needed to be precisely positioned so that the entry lined up with the sides ... precisely!
https://i.postimg.cc/sDHCvB4H/9a.jpg
Here is what it would look like with the drawer front inserted ...
https://i.postimg.cc/7hxrT0Rd/8a.jpg
To aid with alignment, I made a MDF pattern ...
https://i.postimg.cc/7YZyH10T/10a.jpg
Here's the fun bit - aligning the case with the front and rear aprons, to mark out the rear mortices ...
https://i.postimg.cc/zBmfFCGf/5a.jpg
The pattern is inserted and a straight edge is attached to the front apron to prevent flexing ...
https://i.postimg.cc/nL9zmRZ5/6a.jpg
A lot of repeat measurements are taken on the rear apron before I am satisfied it is square and equal front-and-back.
This is the result ...
https://i.postimg.cc/NGHDqjgX/1.jpg
By-the-way, note the biscuit joiner-made slots for attaching the table top.