Edge straightener? Jointer-ish thing for the table saw.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I don’t want to call it a “jointer” because it really just gets the edge straight on rough sawn lumber, but here is what I made last night. It has a miter slide on bottom and slides in my miter slot. My saw has an outfeed that allows 8’ to remain supported, but this would work with smaller outfeed. I routed in T-slots every 2 feet for holding the workpiece. It was made 1/8” proud of the blade and the first pass trimmed it flush to the blade. I use almost exclusively rough sawn lumber, and this was a must.

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Note: the left miter slot on my saw goes end to end. The right one doesn’t. It used to be both stopped and I routed the left one all the way to the other end, and quite frankly it was late and but the right one would be too close to the Unisaw on the other side that shares an outfeed with this saw. It is for dadoes and this saw is a 12” with 1” arbor.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I did similar, but use my fence to allow for a broader width of boards.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlypo69JsdA

[Malcolm Schweizer]

That makes sense. I am going to do this for the shop where I teach, which doesn’t have a very good miter slot on the outfeed.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

600 board feet of mahogany to clean up and this is working very well.
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[Bruce Page]

I was forced to improvise when I had to sell my jointer to make room for my cnc.
Here’s my version. I wouldn’t want to do 600 bf on it but for onesie-twosie, it works pretty well.

[Jamie Buxton]

Between this ripping sled and your long fence, you seem set. However for me straight-lining long boards is better done with a track saw, or a skill saw and a straightedge. This is one of those occasions where I bring the small tool to the large workpiece; it is easier to move the circular saw than to horse the long board around.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Oh, forgot to mention it’s also a tapering jig.

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[Malcolm Schweizer]

Between this ripping sled and your long fence, you seem set. However for me straight-lining long boards is better done with a track saw, or a skill saw and a straightedge. This is one of those occasions where I bring the small tool to the large workpiece; it is easier to move the circular saw than to horse the long board around.

I have 25’ of track and yes, I do use all 25 at one time! Problem is, that does not work so well for 3” thick slabs. Even 2” is a workout, although it does it. For 4” and up, we get out the 16 1/4” monster.

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[Bruce Wrenn]

I saw this tip in FWW years ago. When making a straight edge cutting jig, or tapering jig, make runner slightly under sized. Push jig towards blade when cutting,and away from the blade when bringing jig back, so as to prevent bladed from rubbing against cut and edge of jig

[Mark Gibney]

I like that jig Malcolm. And useful for tapering as you say.
I use my Festool track now and again to straighten the edge of big lumber, but I wonder if this contributes to the anti-splinter strip getting beaten up. If the lumber is not flat the track will be moved as the saw travels over it, and I think this might chew the edge of the strip. I don't know, obviously. But for some reason my anti-splinter strips don't last that long!