Home made rip fence

[George Bokros]

My table saw has capacity on the table to cut the ply panel but the fence rail does no have the capacity to lock the fence.

Has any one clamped a straight edge to the tabe saw extension wing and used it as a rip fence? Would this be safe?
I would use my track saw but it would be difficult to set it up and keep the kerf in the 1/4 inch waste.

Thoughts opinions...... would you do it?

Thanks

[Andrew Nemeth]

If I understand you correctly, you want to clamp a straight edge across your extension table (from front to back) parallel to the blade. If this is the case, just make sure your straight edge is straight, tall enough to prevent the cutting stock from riding up over the fence, and parallel to your blade, just as you would want to have a traditional fence set. Some say to cant the fence a few thousands away from the blade at the back, I do not do this intentionally, but I make sure the back of the fence is not canted towards the blade or else you could get kickback. The one thing to be aware of, and this is true for saws with fences rails that are long too (with larger cut capacities), is that you still want to make sure the piece you are cutting is longer than it is wide (so you are cutting with the long dimension of the board) to prevent the board from rotating and binding between the fence and blade causing kick back. While kickback on larger boards and panels is not usually as fast as smaller pieces (due to its increased mass), it still has a lot of energy behind it and can do some damage.

[Richard Coers]

My table saw has capacity on the table to cut the ply panel but the fence rail does no have the capacity to lock the fence.

Has any one clamped a straight edge to the tabe saw extension wing and used it as a rip fence? Would this be safe?
I would use my track saw but it would be difficult to set it up and keep the kerf in the 1/4 inch waste.

Thoughts opinions...... would you do it?

Thanks

It would be great if you gave some more details. I really can't figure out what you are saying.

[Vince Shriver]

My table saw has capacity on the table to cut the ply panel but the fence rail does no have the capacity to lock the fence.

Has any one clamped a straight edge to the tabe saw extension wing and used it as a rip fence? Would this be safe?
I would use my track saw but it would be difficult to set it up and keep the kerf in the 1/4 inch waste.

Thoughts opinions...... would you do it?

Is there any way you could just clamp your rip fence to the table? Use a couple C-clamps if you have them and position the threaded part under the table.

[Andrew Seemann]

If I had a couple more beers, I might admit to having clamped a board to the extension table (both sides) to use as a rip fence. As I only have had two tonight, I will deny any association with this sort of thing, and note that it is important for any rip fence not to move while in operation. Take that as you wish:)

[Lee Schierer]

I don't see a reason why you couldn't do this IF you can in fact get the clamped on guide parallel to the blade and line of cut. My fence is a beismeyer and it can be used on either side of the blade. You may be able to use your fence and a spare piece of plywood that has been ripped to the width needed to act as a spacer between the back side of your adjustable fence and the temporary clamped on fence to insure it gets set parallel to the blade. Check everything at least twice before making your first cut.

[Jim Becker]

My opinion is that yes, you can do this to satisfy a temporary and unique need as long as you are very careful around clamping the fence in proper alignment to the blade, just like a normal fence. But this is not something I would do for "regular" work because of that alignment requirement and work. Even a few thousandths of an inch in the wrong direction can actually setup a dangerous situation.

[Bill Dufour]

I did this while rebuilding my saw. The board has to be jointed straight. eyeball straight is not ok. Use a dial indicator to get it parallel to the slot. You have already got the blade parallel to the slot with a di haven't you? Within at least .002" of parallel. Make it wider at the far end unless you really feel like getting it parallel better then 5/10,000? It worked fine but took about 20 minutes to set and clamp the fence. It would have taken much longer if the width was critical.
Bill D.
PS: make sure you are indicating the same spot on the blade since the blade will not be flat and the arbor is slightly off as well.

[Doug Garson]

The part of your original post I don't understand is why you can't use your track saw. Can you explain why in more detail? Seems like ripping plywood panels is what track saws excel at.

[Bill Dufour]

I think he wants to trim 1/4 inch off the edge of a full sheet and is worried the track saw blade will wander off on a partial cut or it can not be clamped that close to the edge.

[Doug Garson]

Don't have a track saw but I have done just what you describe with a straightedge and circular saw and not had that problem, also I've seen dozens of videos of people doing just that with a track saw. Seems like he is taking what would be an easy cut with a track saw and making it a difficult and maybe dangerous cut on an undersized table saw. Still like to hear from the OP.

[Andy D Jones]

Way back in HS woodshop class, some 40 years ago, the teacher used a large handscrew to clamp the tail of the rip fence more tightly to the rear guide rail, when we needed to rip a large sheet of heavy plywood on the table saw. He said it was very easy with multiple helpers handling a sheet that large and heavy, to put a lot of force against the fence, and the rear fence rail clamp was not always up to it. He called it insurance.

Rather than clamp the rear of the fence directly, you can apply a clamp on the rail(s), directly behind (opposite the blade side of) the fence.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Mark Wooden]

Of course you can! I've had to do it many times over the years .The biggest trouble is getting it parallel to the blade.
So do this-
Move your rip fence as far as it will go to a whole number(and still lock square) and draw a line on the table. You can use a piece of tape if needed to draw the line on.
Add what you need to make the cut you want and set your auxiliary fence from that line. Clamp it down well and make your cut.
Adding a 64th to the out feed side should prevent a bind but you could get heeling, try a test cut if you can.

[Bruce Wrenn]

To set your shop made (I hate the words "home made" when talking about tool, but not for cooking) fence, rip a piece of plywood to the the width needed between fence and your fence. Slide existing fence to right, add plywood spacer,and then clamp down you shop made fence. Remove saw fence and spacer, and have a go at it KISS principal.

[Bill Space]

I would use my track saw but it would be difficult to set it up and keep the kerf in the 1/4 inch waste.

Thanks

George, I am having trouble seeing why using your track would not work easily.

Just seems like the track saw would be the easy way to accomplish what you want to do.

A bit puzzled here...