Some help please with marking wheel and marking knife decision....

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I am a fairly large man with huge hands. My glove size is XXL.

I needs some advice on a marking knife.

At Amazon I found the following marking wheel. Anyone have this marking wheel or an opinion? https://www.amazon.com/Marking-woodworking-Graduated-Cutter-feature/dp/B07B8RX4NB/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=marking+knife&qid=1593015567&sr=8-3

I was given a Father's Day gift card at Amazon so I am hoping to buy there.

Thanks in advance for any opinions!

[Tom Trees]

Can't comment on the marking gauge in question, but will give my 2 cents as I have two wheel marking gauges.
The first I bought was a similarly priced one in the link, a cheaply made version of a Titemark... I have flipped the cutter around on this, as it doesn't drop flush
the cutter retaining screw is a raised screw not countersunk like in your link.

The second one I've bought is the recent one by Veritas with offset body and micro adjustment.

I'm growing increasingly unfond of it, as the design is flawed with its single shaft locking screw, it keeps moving about
and don't even think about cutting a deep knife wall with multiple strokes.

I say go for it, you don't need the micro adjust on these, never found a valid use to use either "system" of floppy micro adjustment.
The Veritas slides more nicely, but you won't care about that when it moves.

I had another look again at my cheapie recently, and found that it works a lot nicer if you line up both locking screws and tighten it down centrally to the milled
slot in the bar.
A lot smoother than before, and it doesn't seem so bad now.
If you've not experienced one ever, and have a suitable work for it, then it will seem the best thing ever.

I think I would like to try one with markings on the bar, now I've tried two of them.
It seems like this tool has good features.

Tom

[Prashun Patel]

I have several wheel marking gauges. I have Titemark copy, a Veritas micro adjustable, and a regular Veritas single adjust. I like the single adjust. The micro's are just too fidgety for me; I'm always turning them in the wrong direction, forgetting which wheel to turn, or moving the wrong side of the adjuster. I've also not been in a situation where that micro adjust is necessary or where the single adjust couldn't get close enough.

My favorite marking knife is the Narex thin edge double bevel marking knife. Just works for me. I don't think it's available any more on Amzn.

[Mike Henderson]

That looks like another clone of the TiteMark gauge. I have a bunch of the TiteMarks that I use when teaching a dovetails class. I also have several of the clones because my students often can't afford the TiteMark and are looking for something a bit less expensive. I wanted to use the clones so I could make good recommendations. It also allows my students to see the difference between a clone and the TiteMark and then they can decide which one is best for them.

I also have a couple of the Lee Valley ones but they don't have as nice of an adjustment mechanism. Good quality but not good adjustment - takes two hands to adjust.

I like a micro-adjust wheel gauge. They all have some lash in the adjustment but the clones have more than the TiteMark. But all you have to do is take up the slack in the direction you want to move the wheel and then make your adjustment.

The second thing to look at is the wheel itself. The TiteMark has a good sharp hardened wheel. The Taylor Tools clone had a wheel that was not as nice but the TiteMark wheel is an exact replacement on the Taylor Tools clone.

Having markings on the shaft is useless. If you need to set the gauge to a certain size you'll use a rule. Most rules have engraved lines so you put the wheel in the line you want and adjust the gauge to that. Otherwise, you adjust to where you want it on the wood. So for a half-blind dovetail, I mark what I want to leave for the bottom of the socket and then adjust the gauge to reach that mark.

None of the above has given you any insight as to this specific gauge. I'm going to order one just so I can see how well it works. It may be one I can recommend to my students.

Mike

[Oh, for a marking knife, I like a violin knife that you can get from Southwest Strings (https://www.swstrings.com/product/lutherie/any/R205K). I mostly use a 12mm, which is about 1/2 inch. I also have some Japanese knives, single bevel, also about 12mm.]

[Edwin Santos]

I am a fairly large man with huge hands. My glove size is XXL.



When you say your hands are huge, it brought back memories of my former co-worker Bill Brasky.
When faced with the same problem, Brasky made himself a wheel marking gauge by grinding the teeth off a 10" saw blade, sharpening up the edge, and mounting it to a section of 3" diameter iron pipe with a stop collar.

Anyway as for me, having hands closer in size to Marco Rubio's than Brasky's, I am a satisfied owner of the Lee Valley marking wheel with micro adjust. I like that it has a nice large bearing surface. But I will admit that I have never used the Tite-Mark which seems to have a large following.

Edwin

[chris carter]

I’m a big guy with huge hands (I’m 6’ 6”).

My marking knife is one made from an old steak knife. Here’s a Paul Sellers video that shows the technique https://youtu.be/l_vHb1gMwIE . It’s like a 15 minute project and costs nothing. It’s extremely comfortable in my hands and while I’ve played with other knives in stores none of them were remotely comfortable to me. I think they are just made for people with normal sized hands. Some people like single bevel knives, but honestly I’ve never had an accuracy problem with the double bevel blade.

I prefer a pin style marking guage, even though they are slightly less flexible than the wheel kind. I made two of the wooden one in the pic. Very easy projects that require little skill. I have the pin filed on two sides which makes it kind of halfway between a pin and a knife. It is very accurate, can cut a faint line or a deep and easy to see line, never ever messes up or loses a setting, tons of reference area on the fence, easy to hold. It’s just awesome.

The only wheel gauge I have is a mortise one from Veritas. It can function as a mortise gauge or a single gauge (or even two different single gauges) – I think it wasn’t much more expensive than their single gauge. I have a love-hate relationship with it. The fence is small which makes registration on boards a bit tricky especially if you are marking a decent distance. It tends to want to follow grain, which is a pain. If you mark in both directions, the wheel can come loose and you won’t notice until your line is totally screwed up (been bitten by that at least several times). It will not cut a deep line and marking with the grain the line can be incredibly difficult to see. Compared to my wooden one, it takes three times longer to mark a line and you have to be three times as careful doing it. On the plus side, it will cut a very very clean cross grain line (nice for dovetails), and it can get into tight spaces to get measurements off furniture pieces. But mostly it’s my third string gauge unless I’m doing a mortise in which case it’s my only mortise gauge. It’s also harder to hold than my wooden one, but I don’t know if this is a hand size thing or not.

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[Warren Mickley]

I have used a wooden marking gauge for fifty years. I have never owned a wheel gauge, but I have used some wheel gauges.

The wheel marking gauge is held more with your fingers (two fingers and a thumb) and the traditional gauge with the whole hand. This makes the wooden gauge less tiring in a production situation. The difference between the two types is not large, but if you are one who is much more comfortable holding a shovel handle than a needle, you might want to consider the wooden gauge.

[James Pallas]

Hi Ken, I own many marking gauges. Some wheeled some pin type. The one your looking at seems to be okay. Looks similar in function to the Titemark. Of the wheel type gauges I like the Veritas mortise gauge. My favorite type of marking gauges are cutting gauges. I do use wheel gauges for all kinds of gauging chores other than marking. Home made wooden cutting gauges are my most used. I’m not sure you were asking about knives too. My favorite to use is a mill knife with a straight blade reground to a single bevel. For big hands it would be great. I don’t have big hands but my thumbs don’t work well anymore. You can really grasp a mill knife and if needed you can make deep marks. The price looks good on the gauge your looking at too.

[Derek Cohen]

I am a fairly large man with huge hands. My glove size is XXL.

I needs some advice on a marking knife.

At Amazon I found the following marking wheel. Anyone have this marking wheel or an opinion? https://www.amazon.com/Marking-woodworking-Graduated-Cutter-feature/dp/B07B8RX4NB/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=marking+knife&qid=1593015567&sr=8-3

I was given a Father's Day gift card at Amazon so I am hoping to buy there.

Thanks in advance for any opinions!

Ken I cannot recommend your choice of wheel gauge as it is an unknown quantity - not just the construction, but especially the quality of the wheel and its availability when it needs replacement. I would recommend spending your money at Titemark or Veritas ...

https://i.postimg.cc/C13wD1Jz/3.jpg

The most basic Veritas (left) works very well. The Titemark (right) with micro adjust is considered the leader, and it is very good, but some find it a bit fiddly. The offset Veritas (centre) is my favourite as it has heft and wirks without any fuss (only the bronze version is now available).

There are other gauges to consider, but I am replying to wheel types here.

The knife I think you will like (I have large hands as well) is the Swann Morton at the top (in red) ..

https://i.postimg.cc/W1hjhYSn/Knife2a.jpg

It uses the same blades as the Stanley (centre). The blades last a long time, and I even sharpen then when they dull.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Matthews]

I like the Murphy layout shop knife.

It has a large, flat blade fixed in a brass and hardwood "barrel" that fixes the blade in place with a simple set screw. Flat blade knives give my arthritis fits.

I can use a Murphy without trouble.

[glenn bradley]

Flexcut KN13 Detail Knife (https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcRzkZvlSyhArbyc5fGFum8X9IfnZ-u8DnhvAB-vEg4FOCREW4Dd&usqp=CAc) has become a favorite in my shop due to the large handle.

[Richard Hutchings]

Ha, I just got that one yesterday using a fathers day gift card. After a little fiddling with it I figured out how to use it. Seems nice to me having never owned a wheel gauge. I think I'm going to like it. Seems smooth enough and the micro adjust works. Time will tell.


I am a fairly large man with huge hands. My glove size is XXL.

I needs some advice on a marking knife.

At Amazon I found the following marking wheel. Anyone have this marking wheel or an opinion? https://www.amazon.com/Marking-woodworking-Graduated-Cutter-feature/dp/B07B8RX4NB/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=marking+knife&qid=1593015567&sr=8-3

I was given a Father's Day gift card at Amazon so I am hoping to buy there.

Thanks in advance for any opinions!

[Jim Koepke]

One advantage of the micro adjuster on the Titemark® gauge is when setting it for hinge leaf thickness or depth.

Very useful for such work.

jtk

[Bill Carey]

Hey Ken - I had one similar to that and returned it - the adjuster kept moving and I couldn't secure it. Finally got the Veritas dual marking gauge (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/veritas-dual-marking-gauge?gclid=CjwKCAjwltH3BRB6EiwAhj0IUKMFHWd7ELXroM 9j-Wy2Lf9cJE_ruW5dDFPKUaofAcxAAhzNdeozJBoCTi0QAvD_BwE ), which I love. And I bought a 3/4" x 7" Hock marking knife, added cherry scales to it, and it fits my fairly large hands well.

Sorry - just realized Amazon doesn't sell the marking gauge, but I bought the Hock from Amazon.

[Mike Henderson]

I ordered that one you referenced and should receive it tomorrow. I'll let you know what I think of it.

Mike

[bill epstein]

I have the Taytools which must be a copy of the Titemark. I can never remember which screw to tighten first and the wheel doesn't score very well. Looks nice on the shelf, though.

My old wooden beam marker that still has $5.98 hand written on it is the one I use. The nail sharpened so that it pulls away from the edge of the work piece it takes one pass and done.

[Jim Koepke]

My old wooden beam marker that still has $5.98 hand written on it is the one I use. The nail sharpened so that it pulls away from the edge of the work piece it takes one pass and done.

Interesting observation on tools used in different trades. Woodworkers call it a marking gauge. When my wife worked at Michael's doing framing they called it a scribe.

The wooden beam marking gauge works very well with a point sharpened more like a knife blade.

jtk

[Mike Henderson]

I have the Taytools which must be a copy of the Titemark. I can never remember which screw to tighten first and the wheel doesn't score very well. Looks nice on the shelf, though.

My old wooden beam marker that still has $5.98 hand written on it is the one I use. The nail sharpened so that it pulls away from the edge of the work piece it takes one pass and done.

The blade on the Taylor Tools marking gauge is not very good. You can order a replacement blade from TiteMark - it's a direct replacement and a better blade. It's $10.

Mike

[David Bassett]

The blade on the Taylor Tools marking gauge is not very good. You can order a replacement blade from TiteMark - it's a direct replacement and a better blade. It's $10.

Mike

Did you try sharpening it? I seen people report some blades (the Veritas?) can be sharpened by putting the flat face down and just honing that side.

[Mike Henderson]

Did you try sharpening it? I seen people report some blades (the Veritas?) can be sharpened by putting the flat face down and just honing that side.

I didn't because I had some replacement TiteMark blades - I have a number of TiteMark marking gauges used by students so I have to have spare parts.

It may be possible to sharpen it. If I remember correctly, it's hardened steel so it might take some effort. I never broke a Taylor Tools blade but I have had TiteMark blades broken when someone dropped a marking gauge on the concrete floor. They break with a chip out of one side.

Actually, you can still use a blade with a chip broken on one side by just using the unbroken part but it's nicer to have an unbroken blade.

Mike

[Jacob Mac]

Did you try sharpening it? I seen people report some blades (the Veritas?) can be sharpened by putting the flat face down and just honing that side.

I did and it worked tons better. But I somehow lost one of the thumb screws to lock it in place. Taytools wouldn't sell me replacements and I haven't found any to replace them yet.

But yes you can sharpen it and it works much better

[David Bassett]

... But I somehow lost one of the thumb screws to lock it in place. Taytools wouldn't sell me replacements and I haven't found any to replace them yet. ...

McMaster-Carr.

They have so much stuff it can be a pain finding what you want sometimes, but they (almost) always have at least something close enough.

[Derek Cohen]

I did and it worked tons better. But I somehow lost one of the thumb screws to lock it in place. Taytools wouldn't sell me replacements and I haven't found any to replace them yet.

But yes you can sharpen it and it works much better

Now what would have happened if the gauge had come from Tite-Mark or Veritas?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Frederick Skelly]

When you say your hands are huge, it brought back memories of my former co-worker Bill Brasky. When faced with the same problem, Brasky made himself a wheel marking gauge by grinding the teeth off a 10" saw blade, sharpening up the edge, and mounting it to a section of 3" diameter iron pipe with a stop collar.

Edwin

Great Saturday Night Live tie-in Edwin!

I use the Veritas.

[Derek Cohen]

When you say your hands are huge, it brought back memories of my former co-worker Bill Brasky.
When faced with the same problem, Brasky made himself a wheel marking gauge by grinding the teeth off a 10" saw blade, sharpening up the edge, and mounting it to a section of 3" diameter iron pipe with a stop collar. ....

I made a wheel gauge as well. One with a fence about twice the length of the Tite-Mark and Veritas. The original version (with a bunch of others for comparison) ...

https://i.postimg.cc/7hvSTtwy/gauge7-zpsnoooqnr6.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/GpR1X3qc/8_zpsdjorefly.jpg

Now what will be useful for others is that I upgraded the gauge with the aid of a stem/blade sold by Lee Valley. This has an integral micro adjuster ...

https://i.postimg.cc/x1JbCQt2/5a.jpg

So .. make your own! :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jacob Mac]

Now what would have happened if the gauge had come from Tite-Mark or Veritas?

Regards from Perth

Derek

I have a Titemark, I'm sure they would have replaced it. But the truth is I could buy three of the taytools for the price of one Titemark. And I didnt have the money to buy titemark at the time

[Richard Hutchings]

I tried my Clarke Brothers this morning and I have to say, it's fine! The wheel didn't loosen, the blade made nice line, I don't know how it could be better.

[Mike Henderson]

I received the Clark Marking Gauge today and this is my quick evaluation of it. Clark Brothers is trying hard. Today I also received a note from them with instructions on how to use the marking gauge.

It comes in a nice looking box.
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When you open the box, the marking gauge is packed in a plastic sleeve and there's a plastic box with the extra blades.
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I compared it to the TiteMark and the Taylor Tools marking Gauge. I also have an iGaging marking gauge but it adjusts a bit differently. From top to bottom: TiteMark (top), Clark Brothers (middle), Taylor Tools (bottom).
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They're all pretty similar in looks and operation. The blade can be retracted into the head on all of them (to protect the blade when you're storing the unit). The Clark has two sides flat on the head which will keep it from rolling off a bench. That's nice but not a major factor to me.

The problem with the Clark Brothers gauge is that it has a lot of lash in the adjustment. The TiteMark has the smallest and the Taylor tools is next. The Clark has the most.

All three have the same plastic adjustment for tension in the head (to keep the head from moving too easily). All work about the same.
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I did some scribing with the Clark Brothers and the TiteMark (I have a TiteMark blade on the Taylor tools). The Clark blade is decent but not quite as sharp as the TiteMark. Perhaps a bit of sharpening would improve it. The Clark blade was better than the original Taylor Tools blade but not as sharp as the TiteMark.

I then checked if I could put a TiteMark blade on the Clark gauge. No problem, the size was the same and the screw size and threads were the same. However, the TiteMark blade has a long shoulder on it (compared to the Clark blade) which would prevent you from using the markings on the shaft. This is minor (to me) because I don't think you should ever use the markings on the shaft. [Off line comment: the TiteMark uses a 5/64" Allen while the Clark uses a Phillips head.] [And just FYI, TiteMark sells replacement blades for $10 in case you can't sharpen your blade to your satisfaction.]
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So overall, it's a decent marking gauge whose major flaw is the significant lash in the adjustment. The major advantage of the Clark and the Taylor Tools is the price - in both cases it's about one third the cost of the TiteMark (the TiteMark is about $90 and the Clark and the Taylor Tools are about $33). Plus you can get the Clark or the Taylor Tools from Amazon with free shipping and you'll pay shipping for the TiteMark.

I normally recommend that someone have two marking gauges so that if they're making things that require two different measurements (drawer fronts are an example) it's nice to set your gauges and not have to change them as you work. With only one gauge you have to reset it and this can throw off your measurements. That's when the price really hits you - $180 for two TiteMarks or $66 for two Clark or Taylor Tools.

If you have the money, the TiteMark is definitely the superior tool, but you can do very good work with either the Clark or the Taylor Tools.

Mike

[Update: One of my TiteMark gauges has a blade with a narrow shoulder and a Phillips screw. I think this is the oldest one I have so I expect they changed the design of the blade from the early days.]

[Mike Henderson]

I did and it worked tons better. But I somehow lost one of the thumb screws to lock it in place. Taytools wouldn't sell me replacements and I haven't found any to replace them yet.

But yes you can sharpen it and it works much better

Just for interest, I tried one of the TiteMark knurled knobs on the Taylor Tools gauge - fits perfectly. Even looks identical. You might contact Wayne Drake (of TiteMark) and try to buy one from him.

Mike

[Edwin Santos]

Great Saturday Night Live tie-in Edwin!

I use the Veritas.

Good catch Fred. You are scary sharp sir!