Thoughts on Router Table Construction...

[Izzy Charo]

I have the Bench Dog router table but would like something with a bit larger top, so I'm thinking of making a new table. I suspect this topic has been explored before, but I couldn't find any recent threads...So, what do folks like for the top? I was thinking of laminating two sheets of either Baltic Birch or ApplePly...with some additional support below to prevent sag. Lots of options for the base, but I'm particularly interested in ideas for a stable, flat top...
Thanks!
Izzy

[Larry Frank]

My table is two layers of 3/4" BB with hardwood edging and Formica top. I have a Woodpecker lift and PC 7 518. No sag and still flat after 15 years.

I installed T Track for fence adjustment and miter slot used mainly for feather boards.

[Robert L Stewart]

I agree with Larry F. 2 layers of 3/4 BB with laminate both sides

[Thomas McCurnin]

Your bench dog is probably only a single layer of MDF. And it has worked fine, right? I question whether two layers of baltic birch is necessary or (dread this word) overkill. The features I would want include: T Tracks to move the fence front and back and lock it down; Miter slot in front of the bit for jigs and hold downs, an adjustable split fence, a fence with a T Track on top for hold downs, dust collection, and some bolt connectors to add an auxiliary tall fence. I don't have a router lift, so I will leave it those who do to suggest a good brand.

There are a ton of good plans and YouTube videos out there for an awesome table or cabinet.

[Richard Coers]

Single layer of 3/4" melamine with plenty of structure under it for me.

[Ben Rivel]

Wait, you have WHICH BenchDog table? Is it one of the cast iron ones? I have their larger cast iron one and I just couldnt image going with anything but a cast iron top now. Its soo nice!

[Jim Becker]

Wait, you have WHICH BenchDog table? Is it one of the cast iron ones? I have their larger cast iron one and I just couldnt image going with anything but a cast iron top now. Its soo nice!
BenchDog also made non-cast-iron table tops "back in the day".

[Izzy Charo]

Indeed, my BenchDog is an "Old Dog", with a non-metal top... I would like more infeed/outfeed length, so am starting to think about building my own top. Appreciate the advice above... 2 sheets of BB laminated together with a Formica (like) top sounds like a solid starting point...

[Michael Drew]

I'd lean towards a layer of MDF and BB, with the MDF as top. Contact cement them together. Laminate on top, and wrap it with hard wood. I built Norm's router table at least ten years ago, and it's worked out well. I'm pretty sure you can find the plans for it - just look for New Yankee Workshop.

If I could source a cast iron top, I'd be all over that option.

Check this router table build out..... Nicest one I've ever seen. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?279395-Solid-Oak-Router-Table-Cabinet-Build

[Jim Becker]

Dual layer would be my preference; prior to my cast iron setup, my router table, generally based on Norm Abram's design from the NYW, had two layers of MDF laminated with "Formica" type covering.

[Marc Fenneuff]

I've made three mobile bases with 2X 3/4" MDF tops, bordered in maple, and topped with plastic laminate. The largest is about 40" x 23", made about 10 years ago. Never had an issue with sagging. I just made a router table top the same way, with a Kreg router lift and Bosch 1617 router. I have no concerns.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Here is a nice design for a fence. I’d probably use T Tracks and a female jig knob to secure the fence, and I’d add a miter slot. And I’d probably laminate the top and fence faces with a Formica type laminate. Rockier has a nice rear dust control chute.

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/feature-filled-router-table-fence/

[Jim Dwight]

I think router tables are something you make, not something you buy. Just my opinion. My current router table will probably be my last. The arrangement of drawers is like Norm's from NYW. I incorporated a home made lift, however, which is based upon a design I saw in American Woodworker. It uses machined steel bars in oilite bearings. Movement if via a 5/16 all thread so one revolution is 1/16 inch. The top pivots up for bit changes. I have dust collection from the router compartment and the fence. The fence is locked down with very short pipe clamps.

But you asked about the top. Mine is a sink cutout backed with 3/4 plywood and edged with maple. If you can find a cutout, it is high density particle board with formica already attached. Seems ideal to me. I put a miter slot in it. I got mine at a home improvement center but have not seen them since. If you can find somebody that puts in counter tops, they often throw the cutout away.

[Stan Calow]

Yes on the sink cutout. You can sometimes find them at Habitat ReStore, as well as a kitchen remodeling shop. The shop I went to had a pile of them that they kept just for this purpose -$2-3 each. They stay dead flat, unlike lots of plywood I've seen. The laminate surfaces are easy to keep clean as well.

[Izzy Charo]

With regard to the fence, I have an Incra Positioner that I like and will probably re-use; I think the top will be larger than a sink cutout, though that does sound like a great material to use. I am planning on including a miter slot...
Thanks for all the comments!

[Jim Becker]

Prior to getting the cast iron setup I have now, my router table top was about 36" wide by 24" deep. A generous work surface isn't a horrible thing as long as it's compatible with shop space.

[Derek Cohen]

I have the Bench Dog router table but would like something with a bit larger top, so I'm thinking of making a new table. I suspect this topic has been explored before, but I couldn't find any recent threads...So, what do folks like for the top? I was thinking of laminating two sheets of either Baltic Birch or ApplePly...with some additional support below to prevent sag. Lots of options for the base, but I'm particularly interested in ideas for a stable, flat top...
Thanks!
Izzy

Izzy, a router table has been a lesser-used tool for me, but my cheaper solution has never left me feeling I was missing out in any way. I have always built the table into the outfeed if a table saw, in the current case a Hammer K3.

The top consists of two layers of 1” chipboard glued and screwed together and covered in laminate ...

https://i.postimg.cc/SR0JwhvD/2a.jpg

This is very stiff, work pieces slide easily, the top is durable, and there is ample outfeed.

Regards from Perth

Derek