#6 vs #7 & #8

[Erich Weidner]

I went a little crazy buying handplanes before my near decade hiatus and return to handwork (about 1 1/2 - 2 years ago).
If memory serves, I was struggling at the time and finally read enough to realize I needed a longer plane (but was still confused by the Stanley numbering system, and Fore/Try Plane vs Jointer). So I ended up with a Veritas #6.

According to my recollection from the LN Course, Medium, Fine video the #6 could be setup to be either a Course for Medium tool depending on the scale one works. What are folks using a #6 for? (If you ae using a #6 :) )


In case it matters...
I now have a recently purchased LN #8. (I don't own a #7). I have both it and the #6 sharpened flat with relieved edges on the irons. I've been experimenting with both planes. (Next sharpening I'll be putting some camber on the #8 for sure).
In the stable I also have a #4 and #5. The #5 has a pretty hefty cambered blade now and that has been a game changer for me. (LN was selling a 2" cambered roughing blade for a while, I got one since I wasn't yet setup for grinding).

[Richard Line]

Somewhere I got the understanding the a plane could flatten a board twice as long as the plane. So, a 15 inch, no. 5, would be good for a 30 inch long board, and a 22 inch, no. 7, would be good for a 44 inch board. Now that is a rough relation with a fairly large + or - range that probably depends on one's skill. For me a no. 5 with a non cambered blade and a no. 7 pretty well covers may needs for flattening.

[Jim Koepke]

IMO, it is nice having a full selection of planes from which to choose.

My #6 is often used like a jointer on shorter pieces. It is also used like a #5 or a try plane at times. It seems to be a very versatile plane. One time it even finished off a panel as a smoother.

My #7 & #8 also get in on the fun at times.

Having at least one of each is enjoyable, but it isn't required to get the job done.

jtk

[Andrew Seemann]

I have my great grandfathers #6 set up for flattening panels. I also have a #7 and a #8 (garage sale finds by the old man). I typically use the #7 for edge joining when I have something too long for the jointer. This will likely happen less as I just upgraded from a 6" Jet to a 8" Jet. I don't use the #8 that often, as I have to walk past the #7 to get it, and it is a little heavier and clumsier to use. I tend to grab it when its weight will be an advantage.

If I was going to do the hand tool thing, I would probably keep the #6 set up for panels, set up the #7 for edge joining and flattening longer stock, and have the #8 for more aggressive edge jointing.

Slightly off topic, but related to your post, #5s are readily available and dirt cheap, having a few of them set up with different cambers and mouths is quite handy. I have one set up for more aggressive face planing, for when I need to quickly face a board too wide for my jointer prior to planing, and another set with a finer edge and narrower mouth for touching up edges and other operations where I want a lighter shaving but a longer base than a smoothing plane.

[Doug Dawson]

I went a little crazy buying handplanes before my near decade hiatus and return to handwork (about 1 1/2 - 2 years ago).
If memory serves, I was struggling at the time and finally read enough to realize I needed a longer plane (but was still confused by the Stanley numbering system, and Fore/Try Plane vs Jointer). So I ended up with a Veritas #6.

According to my recollection from the LN Course, Medium, Fine video the #6 could be setup to be either a Course for Medium tool depending on the scale one works. What are folks using a #6 for? (If you ae using a #6 :) )


In case it matters...
I now have a recently purchased LN #8. (I don't own a #7). I have both it and the #6 sharpened flat with relieved edges on the irons. I've been experimenting with both planes. (Next sharpening I'll be putting some camber on the #8 for sure).
In the stable I also have a #4 and #5. The #5 has a pretty hefty cambered blade now and that has been a game changer for me. (LN was selling a 2" cambered roughing blade for a while, I got one since I wasn't yet setup for grinding).

If a #6 will get the job done for jointing smaller pieces, there’s no need for a giant beast like the #8 (or even the #7.) The vintage #8 is heavy, I can barely imagine how heavy the LN version would be. No need to tire oneself out unless there’s a really good reason. The oft-argued case for “momentum” is rendered somewhat moot if the plane is waxed and the blade is sharp.

For really large surfaces, like table tops or workbenches, yeah the larger planes are great or perhaps necessary.

And Jupiter is still the brightest star in the sky right now, which is why I’m up. By Jove, gotta love it!

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Some people purposely avoid planes such as a #8 because they weigh so much that they tire. Some people purposely use a #8 because it weighs so much that you can power through some tough spots rather than having your plan get stuck. :-)

[steven c newman]

I have all 3 sizes of them biggie planes....

Along with a couple #5-1/2 sized ones

Along with a few #5 sized ones....

I grab the plane best suited to the job I am doing.....all get a bit of work....sometimes the smaller ones will too....like the Millers Falls No.11 and the #3 stanleys....

I give everything a chance to do the jobs in the shop....even a block plane, or 3....