Chisels - sharp side edge

[Jon Snider]

I’ve managed to cut myself twice in the past few weeks on the edge of the side bevel and back. Is this something that most routinely dull after the sharpening process?

thx

jon

[William Fretwell]

Routine dulling is not required, occasional dulling is sometimes required and solves the problem for quite some time. It happens to me when I get so involved in some detail I put my fingers too near the blade area, then wonder where the red stuff is coming from.

[Erich Weidner]

My Veritas chisel is frequently cutting me (it doesn't have lands that I can see, they are more like blade lands). I keep meaning to do something about it, but can't decide how much of the length to dull up.

[Steven Mikes]

I took some 220 grit sandpaper and softened the edges on mine. I think it suggested that in the instructions that came with the chisels.

[glenn bradley]

I eased my Veritas chisel lands. They were easily sharp enough to cut and did.

[Blake M Williams]

I've wondered where the red is coming from too lol. Get so engrossed that I didnt feel the cut. Run edge across stone a couple times to square that edge a little. Real fast.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

I’ve managed to cut myself twice in the past few weeks on the edge of the side bevel and back. Is this something that most routinely dull after the sharpening process?

Have never done anything to mine, but I usually hold the handle and not the blade. Have cut myself innumerable times on the freshly planed corner of a piece of stock.

There are tasks where a "sharp" side is useful (chopping a mortise comes to mind).

[Derek Cohen]

This is an extract from the review I wrote on the O1 chisels in 2012:

The first task I would recommend is to remove some of the carefully manufactured minimal lands. These extend the full length of the shoulder, which is unnecessary. Veritas have left them for the user to modify as preferred. No doubt others have discovered, as I did, that sharp lands cut fingers!


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasChiselReview_html_m2689c0e3.jpg


The minimal lands are exceptionally useful when dovetailing, to avoid bruising the edges of the dovetails, especially with small dovetails where there is too little room to skew the blade ..


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasChiselReview_html_m5245a4b6.jpg


It is important to retain the first 1” from the bevel with the existing sharp edge. From that point back, use a fine diamond plate to smooth over the sharp edge. A few swipes should do the job.

Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasChiselReview.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Sometimes I am slow, so, let me know if I have this right:


It is important to retain the first 1” from the bevel with the existing sharp edge.

The reason I do NOT want to dull the first 1" is because of this:


The minimal lands are exceptionally useful when dovetailing, to avoid bruising the edges of the dovetails, especially with small dovetails where there is too little room to skew the blade ..

Did I get that right? I don't even remember what I did with mine I have had them so long. I do remember reading the part about dulling the edge (I am sure from you Derek), but, I might have missed the leaving the first 1" part. I should run downstairs and check. Never occurred to me.

[steven c newman]

Two things....I worry more about the sharp edge....and still get nicked..including today...

Sharp sides? I could always wear anti-cut gloves...like ones made of Kevlar....

[mike stenson]

I cut myself more from the lands than the edge, so I did what Derek did and blunted them, just a bit.

[Jim Koepke]

My hands may be more calloused than the average person's.

From a young age feeling the edge of a blade has been second nature to me. This is one sharpness test that is seldom mentioned since it is not a safe way to evaluate a blade. So far, not a single time has any of my fingers been cut this way. Though to be honest blood has been let when making stupid mistakes with a blade.

Some of my chisel edges have been sharp. Usually a run or two over a soft Arkansas stone blunts them well enough for my callous toughened fingers.

jtk

[Bob Jones 5443]

Folks who have heard me intone recently about my nascent dovetailing endeavors know I'm new at this, so I'm the last one to weigh in on technique here, but it seems it can make the difference where getting cut is concerned. One thing I've noticed is that I hold a chisel iron in a way that doesn't cut me.

When finding a position for chopping, I do hold the blade near the cutting edge, and my fingers are on the side bevel edges, but my grasp is light, and only brief, until I've tapped into a position. Then I cradle the handle gently between my fingers when I chop away. Getting cut by the side bevel is never an issue.

When paring, I start by giving hard pressure from the front of the iron to press the back firmly into the knife line. Once I have established the line of cut, as the cut progresses, my left hand pinches the iron only by the front and back, never by the edges. This serves to give me a brake when I push into the cut.

So I suppose I've avoided being cut by the side bevels. This only applies to clearing waste for dovetails, so there may be other risks when mortising or doing other chisel operations.

[Jim Matthews]

Then I cradle the handle gently between my fingers when I chop away. Getting cut by the side bevel is never an issue.



I'm with you on this : the handles aren't sharp.

[Warren Mickley]

These problems have shown up rather recently. In traditional practice, we saw dovetails to the corner and we hold the chisel by the handle. That is why we call it the handle. The sides don't have to be particularly thin and the side edges don't need to be sharp.

[david charlesworth]

For paring in particular, slightly blunt the sharp edges, but not the first 1/2" or so.

This problem also exists on chisels with very slight sq edges. Preparing the back tends to leave these sharp enough to cut you, so the previous technique is helpful.

[James Pallas]

I can see having sharp edges for a special reason, such as Derek’s narrow dovetails. I don’t usually sharpen edges. I actually give them a stroke on a fine stone. Don’t see the sense in having another place to get cut in the normal coarse of work. Think rabbet plane here, both hands at the tote or blood will be shed. Now add regular bench chisels and paring chisels to that mix. Another sharp thing to concern yourself with and distract you from the task at hand.

[Jim Koepke]

Now add regular bench chisels and paring chisels to that mix. Another sharp thing to concern yourself with and distract you from the task at hand.

This made me chuckle a little. My bench is often covered with chisels and planes under a layer of shavings. If only my luck at rummaging around all of these sharp things without getting cut would also work when buying lottery tickets.

jtk

[James Pallas]

The only chisels I have sharp sides on are a couple of LV Batoning chisels I bought a few years ago. They work very well for what I bought them for. Splitting off small tenon cheeks, should I be saying that out loud? Also for splitting of dowels. I use them like a miniature froe. I can clean up the cheeks with the chisel end, using great care.

[Jeff Ranck]

I seem to remember Frank Klausz telling someone who complained about the sharp sides, "just don't put your hands there" or something to that effect. I know I got a chuckle out of it at the time.

[mike stenson]

I seem to remember Frank Klausz telling someone who complained about the sharp sides, "just don't put your hands there" or something to that effect. I know I got a chuckle out of it at the time.


When you figure out how to pare without touching the chisel, let me know.

[steven c newman]

Usually, the left thumb goes on top, with one or two fingertips right in the center of the back. Right hand on the handle provides all the force, and controls the direction the chisel goes. Sometimes..the weight of my chin on the end of the handle, to help push the chisel along. None of the left hand's Guide fingers need to be near the edge.

[mike stenson]

I never said the edge. Most cuts are from more than 2 inches back, from the sides of the lands. Seems no one actually reads. But, as usual, Derek and David actually provided answers, not condemnation